Motor Generators

[Turion]

The boys showed up today after I got back from Sacramento for my doctor appointment, and got all the cores on the coils cut back. Tested each one and there was no dragging on the rotor. So tomorrow morning I should be able to get two coils put in and run some tests to determine "neutral" speed. I should also be able to measure output on one coil pair at that speed. But that will probably be it for the day. I have a couple errands to run in town, have a doctors appointment to have the splint put on my hand, and then have to pick up groceries on the way home. So most of the day is shot. Besides, there's a Warriors game tomorrow evening. But Wednesday I start putting coils in the machine and adjusting the magnets. By this weekend I should be done. If the amp draw is too great adding coils, I may have to look for a different AC source than the Variac, but I have that covered. I got an AC motor controller that will handle 120 volts from the wall at high amps to the bridge the DC motor is connected to.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07T4793JW...roduct_details

I ordered a second one that can be connected to the output of coils in parallel, and run through the same large bridge rectifier to power the DC drive motor. I also got a switch to choose between wall power and coil power for the supply to the bridge and the DC motor attached to it. With all of that, I have what I need to attempt to loop the setup. We will see.

Just for fun I went down and stuck two coils in the machine and connected them up to my light board setup, which is a 300 watt bulb, an amp meter and a volt meter for each coil pair. I tested the setup previously by connecting wall power to the same place I connected them to the coil just now. Everything worked great on wall power.

The machine got up to 2800 RPM, and I flipped the switch, expecting to see the light "light up" and the motor either speed up or slow down. The light did NOT light up, and there was no visible effect on the motor. I didn't notice the RPM's on the meter. I was too distracted by the fact that the light didn't even come on. I disconnected the coil from the load, and it measured 150 volts open voltage across one coil, but open voltage does me no good. I need to see output under load. So I just shut it down. Apparently this is not going to be anywhere as easy as I had hoped. So tomorrow I will first, check the bulb again, then bypass everything but the bulb to see if it comes on directly connected to the coil pair. If I have success lighting it, I will add the volt meter across it. Then add the amp meter in line. Then add the off and on switch. Try to figure out where the problem is. It could simply be the wires coming from the coils. Have to start somewhere.

[BroMikey]

[BroMikey]

Here is another low lenz free generator, a big one with many rotors powering 1000's of watts

Small input large output same as what we are doing

[BroMikey]

Dudes a new design showing speed up under load after the minimum rpm is reached. using a 50w light bulb

[BroMikey]

Bye should be happy now with all those meters

Also 340 watts probably won't climb up much with the coils

A hand ground core facing does not qualify. Regular motors ar 5-10,000ths

You are taking a precision box with a wide variance of clearance maybe 60 -80,000ths? I guess use a sliver of old plastic as a gauge? A round string is best but mic it first, say a weed whip string? Do whatever

EDIT that box should be tighter than the all thread box so try 40,000ths and see if the bearing have to much play and drag. At 40,000ths output may double.

Use a plastic feeler gauge, ask the auto parts store, mark each coil for each hole

[Turion]

97 volts DC at 3.5 amps DC.
Not buying anymore meters.
I don't need to be that accurate. Either this thing does what I say it does, or it doesn't. If it DOES, I should be able to loop it and that will shut everyone up. If it DOESN'T, it's time for me to shut up. The independent lab will give me accurate measurements. I just need ballpark inputs and outputs.
Meters.jpeg

[BroMikey]

Fluke meters made in chino, high dollar what a $10 meter won't do.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/31382815293...gAAOSw2fZh3PG0

[BroMikey]

Take a gander at how preddy a New Simpson looks. These are highly accurate devices not + or - 10% These are 1% backyard inventors should buy from chino till they are able to keep the meter. Good equipment lasts 50 years and cost real money to have. $300 and up for a multi meter.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/20322311935...EAAOSwpNxf3PTW

[BroMikey]

In the video it showed 70 volts output of the Variac to get the required RPM, but on my DC meter across the motor it shows 97 volts. And it is drawing 3.5 amps

3.5amps of DC current or is that 3.5Amps of AC current? If it is 3.5amps of DC current that is 97V-DC X 3.5A-DC = 340WATTS of Power

70x3.5=245w 70 on the variac? what about the meter? ya know an AC meter? You do have one right? Also the 2300watt motor needs more power than a 1000watt motor free-wheelings. You could lose 300watts right there AND another 10% on belt drag, then coil amps may drop 10%. Who knows you might break even with all of these loses This one is for DC onlyif it pins the needle on start up, it is toast.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/40127465820...EAAOSwOgdYns39

I like these better as they do not take much away from the circuit

https://www.ebay.com/itm/18389829914...YAAOSwKOJYK8Wt

I like these for AC volts, they are easy to see

https://www.ebay.com/itm/40161509160...MAAOSwtbxbvjbW

[Turion]

Got amp gauge and volt meter mounted and hooked up so I get more accurate input measurements. Going to deal with coils now

[Turion]

The motor I am currently using has the right size shaft. It is 124V DC. It can handle over 17 amps. It will do well above the 2800 RPM required. I'm not looking for a "better" motor than what I have, and I have two of them. I am not worried about losses because of belt drive. All that means is it's EASIER to make it better. After all, this is a prototype, not a production model.

In the video it showed 70 volts output of the Variac to get the required RPM, but on my DC meter across the motor it shows 97 volts. And it is drawing 3.5 amps turning the rotor with no coils in place. Hopefully those requirements won't go up too far with the addition of coils. Time will tell.

My big question now is output. With these exact same coils with iron cores running at the chosen RPM, I got 130 volts at 1.5 amps. But this is a NEW core material and the rotor has twenty four 3/4" x 3/4" magnets instead of the original six 2" diameter x 1/4" magnets. Four times as many magnets, but smaller. Outputs will be different.

[BroMikey]

I wanted the higher voltage lower amperage motor because the coils output high voltage, low amperage. Figuring out how to loop this will be a fun little project.


I will do my best to get a couple coils done tomorrow. I have some spacers I MAY be able to use. No rush.

Treadmill motor 1000w or 90vdc motors have more shaft. Either way they are all 2 pole or 4 pole. 2 pole target is 3600rpm at 120v but a 90vdc motor goes a little slower. Search 90v dc motor. the last one I posted is a 4800 rpm motor and it runs 90vdc. I am not sure how the motor company did that.

Hand grinding nickel iron? naw, use a disk sander. I smooth steel shafts all the time, grinding leaves gouges. A small circular disk action can eat off more than a grinder without all of the heat. Makita makes a nice carpenter sanders. One I paid $15 for has 2 grit on it for iron pipe rust or any steel welds. A fine grit can polish it clean and most of all FLAT

1100w it closer than 2300w like your motor and the volts are close to 100v, look at all that shaft. Direct drive is best, less loss.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/35350133080...b87a%7Ciid%3A1

[Turion]

Alex,
I know you have worked on that, and it is more than I have done. There is a lot to learn to make that work properly, but if we can switch fast enough to make an electric motor, we should be able to switch fast enough to do as you have done. My goal was to prove the things I have shared are true, and that will be enough for me.

[alexelectric]

That's right Mr. Dave.

I did some tests with a core and magnets of the N rotor, on the opposite side of the rotor at 180° I put the repulsion coil, the activation was done with a circuit with a hall sensor, which activated the coil when the magnet and core were facing each other , try to activate it with the least amount of energy and enough so that only the rotor continues its march, so that the inertia of the previous attraction between the magnet and the nucleus continues as if they were not there.

This system that I am telling you about can be experimented with another prototype later on, you, Mr. Dave, if everything goes well with your project as you are doing it, you will finish it, and I acknowledge you for your efforts and dedication.

[Turion]

I wanted the higher voltage lower amperage motor because the coils output high voltage, low amperage. Figuring out how to loop this will be a fun little project.

With coils as "opposition magnets" it might be possible to have only one set of magnets in the rotor and they could possibly be N/S, which you need to give correct output power. Because coils can be fired as either an N "Magnet" coil facing the rotor or an S "Magnet" facing the rotor. With an odd number of generator coils, and an even number of magnets, whenever a rotor magnet is aligned with a generator coil, the magnet directly across the rotor from it is aligned directly BETWEEN two coils and if there was a smaller coil there that could be fired "between the positives" it could negate the attraction of the rotor magnet to the coil core. With N/S magnets on the rotor it would have to fire N/S. too

I will do my best to get a couple coils done tomorrow. I have some spacers I MAY be able to use. No rush.