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  • Turion
    replied
    The original machine was 12 magnet N/S rotor. When we built Black Beauty we put 22 magnets in the rotor all N. It didn’t work, so we cut the rotor apart to get all the magnets out and the new machine has a 24 N/S magnet rotor. We are using the 12 magnet machine as a coil tester because we know that whatever results we get, they will be better on the NEW machine when it is all put together. Since it is finally raining here in my part of Northern California and I can’t work on my outside projects, I have time to work on my inside ones.

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  • BroMikey
    replied
    Originally posted by Turion View Post
    I didn't get to Sacramento on Saturday to meet my friend, and he didn't get the testing done this morning as planned or bring me the stuff I need. A brand new baby has a way of seeming more important than THIS silly stuff. Not MY brand new baby, his. Anyway, he plans on testing in the morning and then running the stuff up to me, which is a three hour round trip for him. It pays to have friends. Then I will have video of the input and output running a simple two coil system that ANYONE should be able to replicate if they can fashion two coils, a 12 magnet rotor, and spin it with a small electric motor.
    Congrats to the young man. 12 magnet? 22 magnet? 24 magnet? You got more irons in the fire than carter has liver pills.

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  • Turion
    replied
    I didn't get to Sacramento on Saturday to meet my friend, and he didn't get the testing done this morning as planned or bring me the stuff I need. A brand new baby has a way of seeming more important than THIS silly stuff. Not MY brand new baby, his. Anyway, he plans on testing in the morning and then running the stuff up to me, which is a three hour round trip for him. It pays to have friends. Then I will have video of the input and output running a simple two coil system that ANYONE should be able to replicate if they can fashion two coils, a 12 magnet rotor, and spin it with a small electric motor.

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  • BroMikey
    replied
    Originally posted by Turion View Post
    You’re right. That will work. Ordered. Will arrive Tuesday. Gracias!
    That is what I am here for. I see circuits in my dreams. When I first began 40years ago I went to every library I could copied all the big books til I was occasionally stopped for copyright laws. So i would do half and come back tomorrow to do the other half. One thing i can tell you today about posted circuits is most are non functional and outdated by 30 years. All of the regular stuff operating today is censored off the web by China.

    Try to fine one of the most commonly used engines today on the web, ICE and you will be forever finding anything that is clear. the web is broken Anyway, enough ranting, it is my pleasure.

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  • Turion
    replied
    You’re right. That will work. Ordered. Will arrive Tuesday. Gracias!

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  • BroMikey
    replied

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  • Turion
    replied
    The switch you showed is for flipping between like 12 volts and 24. I still have two of the ones that let you select between 12 volts, 24 volts or 36 volts, and I know exactly where they are, but if I recall when you switch from one to the other you add an additional battery in series. I don’t want additional, I want two separate sources outputting the same voltage. One being the power supply connected to the wall and the other being whatever I put together to convert the output of two coils to usable power. It will take me a couple days from tomorrow to get the machine together once I have all the parts and then I can work on making it self run while my friend works on putting cores in the last six coils I made. Even though I only need 4 more.

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  • BroMikey
    replied
    Yeah I think I remember that video where you start the rig up on a battery for 1 minute or less and then flip to converter, right? That is a 2 way double pole sort of like a stair case has Old Dave is getting help for the younger more energetic. Hope cement man's property sells.

    https://www.amazon.com/Peissy-Change...jaz10cnVl&th=1

    Last edited by BroMikey; 10-17-2021, 12:06 AM.

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  • Turion
    replied
    I wasn’t able to go to Sacramento today as planned. Life got in the way. BUT my friend there, who has the machine in his garage, said he will shoot a video in the morning. He gave me the only two coils that had “cured” and I was going to take those back to Sacramento to do the video. But he says he will have coils that are done by tomorrow and a couple that are still curing. He will shoot the video in the morning and then bring me all the stuff I was going to drive up there and get. It’s good to have friends.

    That will give me everything I need except the 30 amp high voltage double pole double throw switch I loaned my machinist for this project before he had a stroke and his shop closed up. No one can find it and a replacement is 3 weeks out. Not ESSENTIAL, but it makes switching sources much more convenient.

    Anyway, video tomorrow morning.

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  • BroMikey
    replied
    Originally posted by pmgriphone View Post

    You can always check McMaster for any hardware you need: www.mcmaster.com

    They have 1/4-20 6in: https://www.mcmaster.com/bolts/lengt...d-size~1-4-20/
    They have 1/4-28 6in: https://www.mcmaster.com/bolts/lengt...d-size~1-4-28/
    Thx I checked there but the bolts need to be threaded all of the way down the stock, also I think Dave might be using a beveled head to fit those inset magnets. That part is unclear and harder to find if true. Also remember that the material 18-8 stainless is magnetic I am pretty sure. We are looking for non magnetic stainless say 304 or 316. Picky picky I know, can be a pain.

    Okay I am back, according to the internet chatter of EE's they say 18-8 is 304 but when I went to the hardware their 18-8 stuck to a magnet. I would like to know so the 1/4-28 could be used but Dave says he thinks the 1/4-20 will work. Let's hope so.

    Here I found the answer. Standard and Non standard ss, sly dogs. These guys are honest

    https://www.theworldmaterial.com/wha...ainless-steel/

    What is 18/8 Stainless Steel


    18/8 stainless steel refers to the chemical composition of stainless steel containing 18% chromium (Cr) and 8% nickel (Ni). Standard 18-8 stainless steel includes SS 304, 304L, 304N, 304LN, 304H, non-standard 18-8 grade includes AISI 301, 302, 301L, 301LN, 302B, etc. 18/8 steel is the most widely used material, has excellent corrosion resistance in mild environments, and has good weldability and mechanical properties.


    Last edited by BroMikey; 10-15-2021, 08:28 AM.

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  • pmgriphone
    replied
    Originally posted by Turion View Post
    One of my friends up in Sacramento texted me to say he found the bolts I need at the Fastenal there. The one here didn't have any that long. So Saturday I drive up there to pick up treasure:
    12 of the 1/4 20 x 6" stainless machine screws. (They also bought these.) TWICE the cost of Amazon, and too late to cancel my Amazon order.
    There may be some other odds and ends I need, but the local hardware store will have those.
    So late Saturday I can start putting this thing back together, and maybe Sunday I can try to loop it with two coils. I'm excited to try that.

    Things are moving forward.
    You can always check McMaster for any hardware you need: www.mcmaster.com

    They have 1/4-20 6in: https://www.mcmaster.com/bolts/lengt...d-size~1-4-20/
    They have 1/4-28 6in: https://www.mcmaster.com/bolts/lengt...d-size~1-4-28/

    Leave a comment:


  • BroMikey
    replied
    Originally posted by Turion View Post
    My old rattle trap machine

    I will probably just put it on the shelf since it was the FIRST model that incorporated the magnetic neutralization. A collectors item.
    That's it save it to look back on. Of course I am sure you had time to compare your all thread to a real shaft? Once you see and compare long enough you realize how valuable your guys are that work on the mechanical side. I say the new shaft is gorgeous. Whoever it was, spent most of his life as a mechanical wiz. He sized the hub and shaft plus the stepping down on a lathe. I'll bet those bearings are pretty good also compared to the old days. Oh you spend a few bucks more per part for what looks like over kill until you get all of that weight on it, singing up to 5000rpm's without sounding like an IROC Z coming out of a turn.

    Still your rig worked long enough to prove beyond a doubt that anything is possible if you just try. What tickles me is how all of those in the back ground picked up on the need for improvements and then showed us their version. Working together is priceless.Follow the music I always say and when she sings that nicely you have a winner.
    Last edited by BroMikey; 10-15-2021, 08:08 AM.

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  • Turion
    replied
    One of my friends up in Sacramento texted me to say he found the bolts I need at the Fastenal there. The one here didn't have any that long. So Saturday I drive up there to pick up treasure:

    4 more completed coils, giving me 6. (I am dropping off the last four to have cores put in them and they will have all 6 that need cores.)
    5 AC volt meters that go up to 300 volts ( My friends purchased them)
    Ten 200 watt light bulbs so I can put groups of two in series to deal with the higher voltage. That will take some drilling holes and running wires, but not too much delay. (They purchased these too.)
    12 of the 1/4 20 x 6" stainless machine screws. (They also bought these.) TWICE the cost of Amazon, and too late to cancel my Amazon order.
    There may be some other odds and ends I need, but the local hardware store will have those.
    So late Saturday I can start putting this thing back together, and maybe Sunday I can try to loop it with two coils. I'm excited to try that.

    Things are moving forward.
    Last edited by Turion; 10-14-2021, 11:18 PM.

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  • Turion
    replied
    My old rattle trap machine had adjustments that had about an 1/8 of an inch of play in them regardless of how you adjusted the tuning bolt. That was one of its MAJOR problems and THE reason I needed to build a new machine. That one could be disassembled and retrofitted to fix the tuning problem, but it only had a 12 coil rotor. It used a piece of all thread for the rotor shaft. Lots of OTHER issues that were eliminated with the new build. I will probably just put it on the shelf since it was the FIRST model that incorporated the magnetic neutralization. A collectors item. All the previous models just had speed up under load coils, which is why I burnt up so many motors, and they all got disassembled for parts and junked.

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  • BroMikey
    replied
    Originally posted by Turion View Post
    I ran across major problems as I was putting the generator together today that I can overcome, but as usual, it takes time.

    1. I need twelve 1/4 20 stainless (non-magnetic if possible) machine screws 6" long to use to adjust the opposition magnets on the stator.
    Are you sure a 20 threads per inch is fine enough? Remember what you said last time? You needed a finer thread? Hope it works. You have a lot to keep your focus on. Pay no atten to the monkey moving the goalpost.

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