Motor Generators

[BroMikey]

Lidmotor was following along 14 years ago, everything has been deleted from way back.

[BroMikey]

Here is the setup Dave likes but that tiny modified motor ain't got enough torque to pull a decent generator head. I have been here since before 2008 watching these boards. I first started at THE ENERGY SCIENCE FORUM way before this board was migrated from the old website. Rick F was running the show.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zdtcoJEtDqQ

[BroMikey]

Are you using the Matt motor to run a load, like turning
a rotor with magnets on it past some Lenz free coils to supply power? That would be my first suggestion of the kind of contribution it can make. It adds basically no additional load to the system. The Matt motor is capable of the necessary 2800 rpm I needed for my original coils to run in a Lenz neutral state, which were simply 3 strands of # 23 each 1,000 feet long with steel rod cores made from welding rods per John Bedini. Too many coils and you will have to much magnetic drag, so two coils is probably your limit without neutralizing magnets.

I don't think WANTO can bring himself to build a free style made from scratch generator instead see the lower picture. This is what he wants. He figures the regular motor might give him 250w to power his shop. That is what we have been told for years, I guess you forgot? The modified motor with 3 batteries if done right is COP ONE, so the regular motor generating is free energy up to a point. Maybe only 50watts? Something. Should be is all we have. No video proof.

BTW how are you doing on the transformer energy machine?

[BroMikey]

Here is another one from Denis who always modifies his motors and generators.

......

[BroMikey]

Same man using a small motor generator

[BroMikey]

Here is the battery charging layout

[BroMikey]

Man uses modified generator teaches charging 8 batteries with 1 battery.

[Turion]

Are you using the Matt motor to run a load, like turning
a rotor with magnets on it past some Lenz free coils to supply power? That would be my first suggestion of the kind of contribution it can make. It adds basically no additional load to the system. The Matt motor is capable of the necessary 2800 rpm I needed for my original coils to run in a Lenz neutral state, which were simply 3 strands of # 23 each 1,000 feet long with steel rod cores made from welding rods per John Bedini. Too many coils and you will have to much magnetic drag, so two coils is probably your limit without neutralizing magnets.

I’m not sure exactly how you are using the boost module and Matt motor in your setup. If you are running the boost module between the positives (which provides constant current to your two charge batteries in a four battery system) and then running the Matt motor between the output of the boost set to 24 volts and your two charge batteries (to provide a pulse) you can TRY replacing the Matt motor with the inverter. It will also provide a pulse as it charges then discharges capacitors to create AC power. The problem will be the frequency.

As you saw, you needed to run the Matt motor at a specific voltage for it to “pulse” the batteries at the correct frequency.

I would recommend putting a capacitor in parallel with your charge batteries to accept any energy that isn’t able to be used by just two batteries and is wasted. You saw my video where I charged 12 batteries at once, so the energy is THERE. Then run the inverter on the capacitor and see how that affects the charge cycle.

I would not run on the source batteries unless you have back charging and the source batteries are also climbing. I have had them hold steady, but never had them actually charge when they were being used as the high side of the system. If they ARE charging, I would put a cap in parallel to collect any wasted energy and run the inverter off the cap.

That’s all I got. Matt knows more and may disagree with everything I said.

[wantomake]

I'm no authority on batteries, but I would say there is a better than average chance they would act the same way since they are "lead acid."

Yes, I agree. Last night's run was about 30 minutes each way with the DPDT positions. All 4 batteries received some charging. The Matt motor didn't exceed 96°F so that was good.

Now I want to connect an inverter to either the charging or source batteries. I think the source side since the boost converter and Matt motor may not be able to handle a load from the inverter. The shop needs around 250 watts if no power tools are used. My lithium battery setup is solar charged with no grid charging.

The next thought is "What can this setup contribute to the emergency power needs if a storm knocks out power"?

[Turion]

I'm no authority on batteries, but I would say there is a better than average chance they would act the same way since they are "lead acid."

[wantomake]

Thanks BroMikey but my shop's walls and roof are thin sheet metal with holes everywhere!!! Nothing but a floor fan can make it bearable. Lol! If my shop was heated and ac comfortable, my family would wonder what happened to me. Wow a shop with a controlled environment. Next I'll learn to use my oscilloscope.. Haha!! Good dream.

Turion I didn't know that about batteries. Would marine lead acid ones react the same way? I do discharge the charging batteries in series down to 12.4 volts. Don't want to go below that amount. But interesting and hopeful at same time.

[Turion]

Wantomake,
I know you said your batteries drop back down in voltage after being charged. A couple things about that. I used to charge mine up to 16.2 and they would drop back down. Then I would discharge them down to around 12.5 before switching back to charging. I would run the same load and record the length of TIME that load would run for a cycle. When I eventually got a decent battery analyzer I found that the capacity of the batteries was increasing and even though the battery voltage always dropped after charging, the load ran for longer. So just because your battery voltage drops after charging doesn’t necessarily mean it’s a bad thing.

[BroMikey]

Powered version cooler. Using water is even better.
I lower my shop from 101-78 on hot days using a fan and water mist.

This one works by compression just like all refrigeration cycles.

Also in the past a window ac might run as much as $75 per month for one room. If you remove the sensor bulb wire from off the front of the rooms evaporator radiator and use the 2hr digital off setting you will save 4 times. The problem with ac today is that they pop on and pop off every 5-8 minutes which the start ups cost your 4x more. I have 2 bedrooms (18x18ft) running at $15 per month 75degrees day and nite, because I know what to do.

When an AC turns off with a thud and turns of with a rattle you have high head pressure. To run a 5000btu all month for $15 you need to bring the room down to 65 degrees never allowing the AC to cycle on and off and leave it run 2 hrs whether you like it or not it gets cold so wear a jacket until you get use to it.

I have a new LG window AC 24,000btu monster cost me $300-350 per month until I removed the sensor away from the radiator in front.It turned off every 5 minutes and turned back on in 3 minutes. Now it never cycles, I turn it off by digital timer every 2 hrs. I pay $70 per month for the whole main floor

[BroMikey]

Ok

.....solar is better and cheaper.

It’s too hot in my shop, the motor temp was cooler and steady last night. So will stop and run some tonight.

Save your plastic bottles for a cooler room

[wantomake]

Ok . Marine batteries at 109 Ah or 1 amp an hour at discharge rate times 2 equals 218 Ah.

So the charge rate will be many hours at .25 amps on the boost converter at 12 volts.

Matthew is correct, solar is better and cheaper. But I chose this project and will continue on with it.

I flipped the DPDT and increased boost converter amps to 2 amps. Just to be sure the motor stays cool. Running for 35 minutes and increased only 3 degrees F and steady at that temperature.

It’s too hot in my shop, the motor temp was cooler and steady last night. So will stop and run some tonight.