Motor Generators

[BroMikey]

If 100 watts goes THROUGH the primary side of the inverter that is 85% efficient (to the charge battery) the secondary "generates" 85 watts. You only have to "recover" 15 watts of the 100 you put in to get a COP>1. You may be recovering MORE than that, plus your inverter may be better than 85% efficient. The gains have always been there if people would just BUILD it and look. The more efficient the boost module, the higher the gains, because the MORE you recover and the MORE you generate.

Yes yes I agree if they just had time. Look at this picture. 2 hrs in on the 2nd run gonna be 40why before I get done. Charge battery is almost done.

[Turion]

If 100 watts goes THROUGH the primary side of the inverter that is 85% efficient (to the charge battery) the secondary "generates" 85 watts. You only have to "recover" 15 watts of the 100 you put in to get a COP>1. You may be recovering MORE than that, plus your inverter may be better than 85% efficient. The gains have always been there if people would just BUILD it and look. The more efficient the boost module, the higher the gains, because the MORE you recover and the MORE you generate.

[BroMikey]

You need to wait and see if battery 3 holds voltage after you quit all your testing and after it has rested, and where your primary pack ends up. Once battery 3 is FULL, you are wasting energy if you keep trying to charge it. If you then rotate your batteries, you should be good to keep it going.

Yes of course. I waited 4 hrs. Here is the rotated packs running again and BTW I am over 18 WH as of 1:00am Each pack only took 5-6wh charging and no more than 6 WH straight discharge yet I have more. It will never go dead like this. See the bowl in the back ground?

I have already burned up going on 10 WH. WTH is going on? I'll be up for days. The run pack is at 22.45v as of 18 WH

[Turion]

You need to wait and see if battery 3 holds voltage after you quit all your testing and after it has rested, and where your primary pack ends up. Once battery 3 is FULL, you are wasting energy if you keep trying to charge it. If you then rotate your batteries, you should be good to keep it going.

[BroMikey]

What is your circuit for this video? You keep talking about an inverter in the first video. I see what looks like a boost module, but NO inverter, and it sounds like you are running the light off the boost module, so there is still no pulse going to the batteries as far as I can tell. In the second video I see no light, so is it still there? Not knowing exactly what the circuit is makes it hard to know. Anyway, have fun! You always learn something when you start running experiments. Li batteries aren't supposed to be discharged that low, are they? So it will be interesting to see how it responds after that kind of discharge. Started at 9 volts???

9.6v and it is tanked. Yes I keep saying X number of ah but I mean WH not AH then yes I say inverter when I mean converter.

The thing is still running and yes I have a bowl over the big light but don't forget all 3 back lights for the watt meter panels plus all 3 watt meter circuits are burning power plus the bright lights and digital readout lights on the inverter plus the inverter internal circuit. That is a bunch and it looks like I may get another 6 WH before I switch? I am having fun Dave thanks. I'll post the circuit.

Oops the charge battery has a cap. Remember these li ion batteries run from 11v-10v the entire run and then bottom out in 3 minutes.

The new run shows over 14WH and the run pack is still 22.65v. That is amazing. I have never seen battery 3 charge right up till today.

[Turion]

What is your circuit for this video? You keep talking about an inverter in the first video. I see what looks like a boost module, but NO inverter, and it sounds like you are running the light off the boost module, so there is still no pulse going to the batteries as far as I can tell. In the second video I see no light, so is it still there? Not knowing exactly what the circuit is makes it hard to know. Anyway, have fun! You always learn something when you start running experiments. Li batteries aren't supposed to be discharged that low, are they? So it will be interesting to see how it responds after that kind of discharge. Started at 9 volts???

[BroMikey]

More coming. Cap is 50vdc 2200uf. Four hours later I have started test run 2 due to excess energy still in pack 2. Pack 3 is charged at 12v and pack 2 is over 11v. Battery 1 is dead.

This video is in the middle of the first test run BRB

[BroMikey]

It finished in another video, this is the beginning. I used 11wh from the source batteries, the loads consumed 6 wh and battery 3 recharged using 5wh.

[Turion]

Here’s why high speed ceramic bearings. 8mm
https://youtu.be/tpsBx4Cy7fo


You can buy a new car for the cost of some of these bearings
https://www.amazon.com/s?k=8mm+ceram...41&ref=sr_pg_2

[Turion]

The BatterySaver model takes the remaining low-voltage output from dead batteries and raises the voltage to a usable level by discharging the remaining energy at a high rate. It does this by operating at a lower voltage than standard voltage regulators, allowing it to extend the life of almost any battery type, capacity and chemistry. This unique approach avoids expending energy when boosting is not required, as this technology uses low power switching to autonomously engage the boosting circuitry only when necessary. No other boosting method can recover this remaining energy in a dead battery without sacrificing response time or power output, both of which make other methods unusable in most electronic applications. How does this work? It is essentially rewiring a circuit board that can fit on top of an existing battery or inside the battery casing; It’s small, low-tech, and cheap enough to be retrofitted or built into a device from the get-go, and smart enough to tap into energy stores that regularly go to waste. After completing four years of prototyping, the team has bootstrapped $100,000, and is exploring licensing offers. At Udell’s location in the Santa Rosa hills, he shows me a working prototype, about the size of a penny, a strip of wires to connect to a battery terminal. BatterySaver prototypes are small, inexpensive, flexible, and can be attached to terminals or housing, installed on the battery itself, or retrofitted after manufacture. Gabriella Hasbun Udell removes a dead battery from a radio, connects the prototype, reinserts, and the machine comes to life. “We have an electronic solution to a chemical problem,” Bill Seidel, 75, a longtime Udell collaborator with a gray ponytail, tells popular mechanics, Seidel is QVC turned out to be a hit, Developed a US military product, and now serves as Vice President of Marketing for BatterySaver. Udell says the cost to manufacture is just 12 cents per unit, with retail plans to package two BatterySaver units for 99 cents per package. https://biz.crast.net/this-91-year-o...to-30-percent/

[Turion]

Not sure why you aren’t just using the two kilowatt meters you have shown and measuring watts in and watts out and comparing.

[BroMikey]

I have made calculations that show 94% eff or better. .175 x2=.325+booster light and circuit = .400

1.4+ .725 = 2.15 next max draw is 2.25

eff = 2.15 / 2.25 = 95% at these low power levels.

[BroMikey]

[BroMikey]

Okay test coming. I have this one? https://www.fridayparts.com/linear-d...30v-0-3a-5v-3a

[Turion]

Save yourself hours of time. Use a power supply with your meter between it and the boost module input. Then take the output of the boost module straight through another meter to a load. You can measure watts in and watts out and calculate efficiency and have a CONSTANT source of supply rather than a declining one as batteries discharge.

Alternately, take a Variac with a bridge rectifier attached set to low AC voltage. Run the kilowatt meter off the DC side of the bridge with the boost module attached. Again, take the output of the boost through a meter to a load. Watts in vs watts out. Efficiency.

Test Circuit. jpg.jpg

Once you know the efficiency of the boost module you can set up the attached schematic. I forgot to show the kilowatt meter hooked directly to the battery and the two wires I show "connected to the battery" should be connected to the kilowatt meter output. This will test whether a boost module, in and of itself, is a free energy device. It allows you to compare watts into the boost module to watts into the load. If your boost module is 87% efficient and MORE than 87% of the watts you input to the boost module arrive at the load, where did they come from? Especially when you consider LOSSES in the TWO meters, the boost module and the two diodes. Silicon diodes have a forward voltage loss of approximately 0.7 volts, and there are two of them in the circuit. so that's 1.5 volts. What % of your input is that, and how should that ALONE affect the output. Does it?

This is the simplest process and simplest test setups I could come up with to prove the point. Lots of folks have most of this stuff on hand.