Motor Generators

[wantomake]

Can you explain gains? Gained runtime to zap batteries or are you using power up running lights? I know solar keeps everything from going dead

No I can't. The batteries run longer with each charge. My solar panels are connected to my lithium bank only. Nothing to do with the Carlos Benitez 4 battery setup shown in the YouTube video.

[BroMikey]

BE CAREFUL

Let's say you put 100 watts from a 100 watt battery bank into something that runs on the potential difference and produces energy, like a boost module.

We took 100 watts out of it. According to what YOU just posted, it would take 300-400 watts of input to get the first battery bank back up to the 100 watts

This spike, along with constant current from the boost,

You forgot one very amazing point about matties mtr. When it is timed and running at 1 to 2 amps 16v zapping batteries I can try to stop it with my hand putting a huge load on it and the amps don't climb. I know that means nothing to you but to me it means I can run a 20w generator minimu , for free. Why don't you ever talk a out that? Maybe you didn't do that test. Must be another galaxy? An extra scooter motor unmod. Should do the trick yet not even wanto did that test that I am aware of⁹

[BroMikey]

Experiential knowledge is gained here. When one sees in front of them the results of a setup. That's the gain. I have seen on my shop table the gains with using boost converter and capacitors and using the knowledge I'm taught.

Maybe it's my

Can you explain gains? Gained runtime to zap batteries or are you using power up running lights? I know solar keeps everything from going dead

[wantomake]

I did connect capacitors across batteries #1 and #4 to "catch" energy that would be wasted on the parallel charging batteries. The boost module in my setup is sure the 87% one. But still the charging does gain in charge time not voltage as Dave Turion pointed out.

Experiential knowledge is gained here. When one sees in front of them the results of a setup. That's the gain. I have seen on my shop table the gains with using boost converter and capacitors and using the knowledge I'm taught.

Maybe it's my newer marine batteries? Maybe it's the Matt modified motor properly built? The converter correctly set? I don't know. But I'm enjoying and ready to do more and better things.

[BroMikey]

Yes that does help. So 100w input to boost and mod.mtr 80%conversion eff then collect 80% of that is 60w and that is 140w not 260w. I can't see how you got that number. But that 60w is not recovered because we need at least double that to charge battery 3 till the magic begins? The boost powers nothing like the mod.mtr neither just zapping batteries

Say it barely ran for ever which is theoretically impossible, where is the next level? Concept proof ruins the model? Nice

[Turion]

BE CAREFUL WITH THAT BUCK/BOOST Not all boost modules will run between the positives. I have purchased several that will not.

Here is an example. None of these numbers are real, so let's not get crazy.

Let's say you put 100 watts from a 100 watt battery bank into something that runs on the potential difference and produces energy, like a boost module. You recover 80 watts, and produce 80 watts. Your input was 100 watts but you end up with 160 watts. WOW! The PROBLEM is, what do you do with that 160 watts? Since you HAD to have a battery bank to provide the potential difference, the 160 watts went INTO a battery bank. If that battery bank started at 100 watts and it accepted ALLLLLLLL the charge (you know it won't!!!!) you would end up with 260 watts in that battery bank. But our first 100 watt battery bank is at 0. We took 100 watts out of it. According to what YOU just posted, it would take 300-400 watts of input to get the first battery bank back up to the 100 watts you started with. So we ended up with 260, but need 300-400 to charge up the first battery bank. Now we are way in the hole 140 to 240 watts. See the problem? The impedance (to charge) of a battery will cause you fits. Does that make sense? There are things we can do, but resistance and impedance will destroy most setups before you even begin.

Now the Matt motor has a coil that collapses. So along with the constant current you get from the boost running between the positives, you get a high voltage spike pulse from the Matt motor. This spike, along with constant current from the boost, acts like a "battery charger" at the correct frequency, so it is MORE that just a potential based system where you run some lights between the positives. It can overcome the losses you would otherwise see. A cap across "battery three" or many "battery threes" in parallel helps makes sure nothing gets wasted.

[BroMikey]

$8

https://www.ebay.com/itm/17535505050...iKcUA&LH_BIN=1

Working frequency: 150KHz
Conversion efficiency: up to 96%

https://www.ebay.com/itm/31402886679...ampid%3APL_CLK

[BroMikey]

I found a few converters at 96% oh and I believe in magic and I use watt meters. I did your test many times and charging took 3-4x more power. But back to 80% recovery. Modified mattie motor = COP one yet you can recovery 80%? Sorry that don't make any sense. COP 1 is not OverUnity , I never said that. What I said and I will repeat COP=1 this is what we were told.

Next you claim what? 80% recovery? How is that COP 1? I have tested using the energy straight up and the same energy in the 3 battery. The meters show good results if you wait 3 days with all those batteries. My batteries are toast now I I am not going to pay $2000 to make those tests again.

Capacitors get bigger internally also so the watt meter is the way to go. Maybe I'll use Lipo this time or supercaps that can hold enough power to start your car but never batteries of lead. One more thing, I never hooked up the modified motor to the fuse box of my house expecting it to power up. All I wanted was a few joules and was always charging my banks back up on wall power. On the other hand I saw your video where the run batteries climb and the charge batteries keep going up and I have no explanation for that.

Ultra Capacitor $11 x 6 = $66

https://www.ebay.com/itm/31407110214...cAAOSwGHxizmbR

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z3x_kYq3mHM

[Turion]

The Matt motor and the 3 Battery system were NEVER INTENDED to be "OVERUNITY or COP>1 setups. They will never run your house. They MIGHT run some lights in an emergency if you know what you are doing. They were to prove ONE CONCEPT and ONE CONCEPT ONLY:

The load does NOT "USE UP" the energy that we put into it. That energy is "USED UP" by sending it THROUGH THE LOAD to GROUND. THE LESSON?????
Don't DO that.

Once you understand, trust, and BELIEVE that to be true, it is time to start applying those principles to ways to produce energy. So we added the boost module. You put energy into it, and you get energy out of it. If you run it straight off the battery, you recover NOTHING and your battery just runs down. If you run it between the positives and run the Matt Motor between its output and battery 3, you get to see battery 3 charge, and get longer run times when you rotate the batteries. A really efficient boost will output 99.7%, but THAT ONE is going to really, really cost you. A cheap one will still prove the concept. If it is 87% efficient, like a LOT of them, you put in 100 watts and get out 87. There will ALWAYS be losses in the load do to resistance, impedance and other factors, and this includes in the boost module. But if you RECOVER some of the 100 you put in by running it between the positives, PLUS get 87 out, now we're getting somewhere. Then you take that energy and try to charge a battery with it. Good luck.

If you have a kilowatt meter, here's a great little experiment for you. Charge your battery up to full, put the kilowatt meter on the battery and run it down for a while. You know know how much energy you took out of the battery. Put a kilowatt meter between your battery charger and your battery or between the wall and your battery charger. See how much energy it takes to overcome the impedance in the battery and actually charge it back up to where it was when you started. Compare those two amounts. You better have the PERFECT battery charger and it still takes way more to charge that battery back up than you got out of it.

Without power generation, you will not see much more out of this setup.

[BroMikey]

Boring video for those with a bench top mill drill. He covers fit

[BroMikey]

Boring a precision machined hole for rotors and sleeves. a slip fit is over and a press fit is .001-.0015 under

[BroMikey]

Thanks BroMikey for the illustrations in both post.

Your assumptions are close but not spot on. .

Not being defensive or attacking your words.

So all is good and learning so much from this simple modified Matt motor setup.

Dave has been patient and teaching me with emails.

Thanks Wanto Dave knows everything but can only get it to work sometimes. Are you sure you want to follow him? Just joking around you both are hard workers and great guys. I guess Dave hasn't forgot then. I throw out a taunt every now and then to see who will man up and get the job done.

Yes 2 coils is a good entry level starting place, no plywood rotors @ 3000 rpm. Maybe someone can machine a hub and rotor for you. You could make a tiny one say 6" rotor that the Modified motor could pull and it would not drag down. Got any ideas?

[wantomake]

I don't think WANTO can bring himself to build a free style made from scratch generator instead see the lower picture. This is what he wants. He figures the regular motor might give him 250w to power his shop. That is what we have been told for years, I guess you forgot? The modified motor with 3 batteries if done right is COP ONE, so the regular motor generating is free energy up to a point. Maybe only 50watts? Something. Should be is all we have. No video proof.

BTW how are you doing on the transformer energy machine?

Thanks BroMikey for the illustrations in both post.

Your assumptions are close but not spot on. Spiritual and naturally I'm able to learn and build with help from Dave and Matthew and you.

Dave knows what and how much I can do in my tin can shop. That's ok, it's a start. We all build at different levels with the ability we possess. Not being defensive or attacking your words. I appreciate your words and observations. That's why I like you.

This is how I see replicating here and seems to work good;
1. Get the idea and blueprint of a project.
2. Build a proof of concept small and observe the outcome.
3. Take good notes and draw out the diagrams or schematics.
4. Decide that this concept IS in fact worthwhile the resources.
5. Know your limits be wise, then plan out the build.

I do want to build larger unit later as I progress financially and in wisdom. Dave has been patient and teaching me with emails.

So all is good and learning so much from this simple modified Matt motor setup.

[Turion]

Here is the setup Dave likes but that tiny modified motor ain't got enough torque to pull a decent generator head. I have been here since before 2008 watching these boards. I first started at THE ENERGY SCIENCE FORUM way before this board was migrated from the old website. Rick F was running the show.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zdtcoJEtDqQ

If you only have a couple coils, and they are Lenz neutral, it absolutely does. You should know that by now. All you're doing is turning a rotor. More than a couple coils you need opposition magnets.

[BroMikey]

John Bedini 12 years ago. I watched him make all these video's