Motor Generators

[Turion]

Just to prove I am not a complete ass, here are the issues I see. And remember, we found this stuff out by accident. Things worked and we didn't know WHY. It is hard to teach how to do something correctly when you don't know WHY it is working. We just had "working" setups. Anyway, to get to the three schematics you have just shown.

Pulse charging methods has been developed as one of the fast charging methods for Lithium ion battery. This technique applies the continuous constant current and pulse with certain pulse width until the battery fully charged.

Post 3484

Runs the inverter between the positives NO DEVICE PULSING THE BATTERY. CONSTANT CURRENT ONLY

Runs Boost between the positives NO DEVICE PULSING THE BATTERY. CONSTANT CURRENT ONLY


Post 3487

Output of the boost (which is run between the positives) is run DIRECTLY to the battery without going through a load. WASTE
The motor is run directly between the positives with NO VOLTAGE CONTROL TO ADJUST THE PULSE.


POST 3488

Load run between the positives NO DEVICE PULSING THE BATTERY. CONSTANT CURRENT ONLY

[wantomake]

Yes. Years ago I had the schematic Turion sent me and was able to use two Matt modified motors with two boost converters built the system, then posted on YouTube. Posted the proof of concept here.

So fast forward to fear-demic present and I was encouraged by people around me to find cheaper electricity for them. Solar I answered them. Since my shop has low powered solar and began converting over to lithium batteries.

I can't find my schematic drawings from those times. Therefore I watched Turions video, drew another schematic and used the Carlos Benitez 4 switch battery setup minus Peter L. Lenz free motor. It's the same setup as Turion is using in the video minus the 4 switches. It works now with minimal heat and charges.

I want to add another "resting" bank of batteries as Turion instructed some years ago. But resources and my hard head gets in the way.

I want to use my lithium banks(per Yehu Garcia videos and products) but don't think the BMS on each pack will work in this system. My lithium banks are 24 volt system charging with 24 volt solar setup. But only 2k watts of backup with a ups in emergency times. Really small but good gain of knowledge.

[BroMikey]

I'm not nervous. I know what will work and what won't. It's your build and your problem. You make fun of me for saying the same thing over and over and over again. And then you post several schematics that leave OUT what I have said over and over and over is necessary for SUCCESS. So good luck. You are going to get exactly what you deserve. But you will get there if you work on it long enough. I did. Wantomake did. Others have also. People who pay attention just get it faster.

I know I am slow and easy.

[Turion]

I'm not nervous. I know what will work and what won't. It's your build and your problem. You make fun of me for saying the same thing over and over and over again. And then you post several schematics that leave OUT what I have said over and over and over is necessary for SUCCESS. So good luck. You are going to get exactly what you deserve. But you will get there if you work on it long enough. I did. Wantomake did. Others have also. People who pay attention just get it faster.

[BroMikey]

Here is one of my bigger boosters so if I can make these tiny ones work I can get bigger batteries

flyer.thenetteam.net/3batterygen/DConvert1.jpg

flyer.thenetteam.net/3batterygen/DConvert2.jpg

flyer.thenetteam.net/3batterygen/DConvert3.jpg

flyer.thenetteam.net/3batterygen/DConvert4.jpg





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[BroMikey]

I'll probably use this one by substituting the inverter for a converter circuit. No luck needed. Dave is nervous again

[BroMikey]

How is this one? Just take the mtr out.

[BroMikey]

Here are the stat's on my watt meters. The picture I posted is wrong I will only be using a single boost converter that will be powered up split positive arrangement. The second boost could be used to keep me from switching batteries round. This diagram was produced from coaching from you Dave, years back. Are you taking it back?

I was looking to see how much these watt meter eat at the circuit. I will assume 25-50ma

• 1. Electical parameter measurement function(Voltage, current,active power, energy）
  2. Voltage alarm function(over voltage alarm threshold, backlight and voltage flashing to alarm)
  3. The reset function of energy key.
  4. Store date when power off.
  5. Large-screen LCD (display voltage, current, active power, energy at the same time)
  6. Backlight function.
• Display interface
  Display interface is large-screen LCD (display Voltage, current, power, energy parameters at the same time)
• Display format:
  1. Power: test range: 0-2KW
  Within 1kw, the display format is 0.0-999.9W;
  1kw and about, the display format is 1000-2000w.
  2. Energy: test range: 0-9999kwh
  Within 10kwh, the display format is 0-9999wh;
  10kw and about, the display format is 10-9999kwh.
  3. Voltage: test range: 6.5-100v
  Display format: 6.50-99.9v
  4. Current: test range: 0-20A
  Display format: 0.00-20.00
• Precautions:
  1. This module is suitable for indoor, please do not use outdoor.
  2. Applied load should not exceed the rated voltage, current.
  3. Wiring order can't be wrong.
• Specifications:
  Type: PAEM-031
  Working voltage: 6.5-100VDC
  Test voltage:6.5-100VDC
  Rated power: 20A/200W
  Meaurement accuracy: 1.0 grade
  Size: 89.6*49.6*24.4mm(Length*Wide*High）
  LCD screen: 51*30mm(Length*Wide)
  Color: Black

[Turion]

Good luck with that.

[BroMikey]

Here is my very basic free energy device without the motor as a load. I will burn LED lights

[BroMikey]

Understand that the load is in SERIES with the boost, so setting the power supply on 14 volts to BEGIN WITH may not be enough to get things running. If it isn’t, turn up the power supply.

My packs are 11v each. I spent time today digging up boosters and watt meters, hobbling along with crutches. I pulled my dern leg socket a couple a weeks back. Now I use 1 crutch. It's a beast. I also took out my 3" dia X 20" stainless thin wall tube and some factory bent 1/4" SS tubing from refrigerated drink machine and incorporating to produce a heat exchanger gasoline vaporizer. But that will be fun for another day soon.

Here is what I have on hand that I dug out of the gold mines. I'll be back, thanks a mill



https://www.ebay.com/itm/22426910223...3ABFBMkJCrzMlg




https://www.ebay.com/itm/28176870486...3ABFBMxPefzMlg

[wantomake]

Sorry guys,
Can't do much shop time today. Wifey is switching her room to our bedroom and I'll get my own room as a study. But not as a shop!! Lol!

Maybe later tonight may have some time to experiment some?

Looks interesting Turion.

[Turion]

Understand that the load is in SERIES with the boost, so setting the power supply on 14 volts to BEGIN WITH may not be enough to get things running. If it isn’t, turn up the power supply.

[Turion]

The simplest thing you can put together to see if this is real is just a buck module or a boost module. Both CAN BE off the shelf “Overunity” devices (I hate that term) when run correctly, and you can’t get more basic than that.

When run between the positives you either CAN recover some of the energy put through the primary side, or you cannot. If you CAN, and you also get energy out of the secondary, and those add up to more than you put in, there is the gain you are looking for.

Example: Put in 100 watts. Recover 70. Produce 80 watts out the secondary. Input 100 vs return 150. COP: 1.5

I started with a power supply set to 14 volts with a kilowatt meter on the output as my “source battery.“ The reason I started with 14 volts is your capacitor and load are basically at “0”’, so a 14 volt setting gives you 14 volts potential. Run it through through the boost module to a capacitor with a kilowatt meter on it and a load as my battery 3. The load across the cap is there to pull the power out of the cap and use it up in a way that can be measured. The output of the boost set to 14 volts can also go to the capacitor. I think I also put diodes in to keep the output of the boost and what went through the boost from feeding back on each other, but that’s later in my notes. Probably after I blew up a couple boost modules.

You are not fighting impedance with this setup and you can measure inputs and outputs.

drawing attached. If your load is not big enough and you build up a charge in your capacitor, the potential goes away and you are done. My power supply shows watts out. If you don’t have one that does that you ned to meter what is coming out of the power supply to compare. . 9DF6CFD1-DDD4-44BE-A756-F4B21B00B993.jpeg

[BroMikey]

Since Dave is dogging me to get the 3bgs part 10 working I will show you my booster. BTW I have 3 li-ion packs ready to plug into the 2 watt meters. There is battery 1 then battery 2 and battery 3. There will be no battery 4 or battery 5 at this time, let's save on confusion.

This is one of 4 boosters I can use and remember between 10%-30% loading eff will climb from the mean rating. In this case 19vx2.5amp=94% I won't be running that high. I was thinking of using five 1 watt LED's in series which I will crank the booster up to a whopping 16v. Boost input = 12.4v approx. so to get 5 watts out of the string, input current will be around 400ma.

Probably 96% eff at that load plus the circuit burns 25ma idling

Starting out with a differential of 12.4v since pack 3 will be dead at 9.6v so input amps will be around 310ma

Here are my pack voltage for all 3 batterie

22.2Wh
Polymer Li-ion Battery: 11.1 V 2000mah (22.2Wh, 4.2A rate)

Running batteries pack 1 an 2 will be at 44wh while pack 3 charge battery will be dead needing 22wh to be charged full. 4 hrs should do the trick? Maybe 5 hrs.

- Newly Improved Version
			- Input voltage: DC 10V-32V
			- Output voltage: DC12V-35V(adjustable)
			- Input current :16A (MAX) (more than 10A please strengthen heatsink)
			- Output power: natural cooling 100W (MAX), strengthening cooling 150W (MAX) real power
			- Conversion efficiency: 94% (when Input 19V 2.5A Output 16V, Reference)
			- Output ripple: 2% (MAX)
			- Working temperature: industrial (- 40 °c to +85 °c)
			- If room temperature is more than 40 °c degrees, please reduce power or enhance cooling system
			- The high-voltage module should avoid the use of electricity in high voltage no-load
			- Full-Load temperature: 45 degrees
			- No-load current: 25mA typical
			- Voltage regulation: ± 0.5%
			- Load regulation: ± 0.5%
			- Dynamic response speed: 200uS 5%
			- Short circuit protection: No (Please installs the fuse or protection circuit at input parts)
			- No Input Reverse protection (Comply with a reverse protection or connect a diode at input parts)
			- Size:6.5x4.7x2cm(LxWxH)

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