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  • Turion
    replied
    Originally posted by wantomake View Post

    Turion,
    I turned the voltage and amp settings down on the boost. The parallel batteries still charge up but not as fast. Therefore I sit at my work table and improve my notes while watching the setup run. Instead of 26 volts I'm set at 13 volts on the boost converter.

    BroMikey,
    So what reaction could one or several bad cells have on the capacity of the battery to cause it to jump up or down in voltage? I had two 50 watt dc bulbs attached directly to it!! Just asking. If I'm recalling correctly. It was my first observation of unexplained free energy. Turion correct me if I'm wrong, but you said to connect a load across the bad battery to keep it dead, with no voltage. I did that several times. Each time after turning off the system, the bad battery crashed back to zero volts with the two(2) 50 watt bulbs connected across it. So why was this 6 to 9 volt jump happening this particular discharge time??
    I have theorized this many times in writing and I will put it forth again. What if when we charge a battery we are forcing the charged ions all to one side, so when we put a meter on it, we are measuring the difference between one side and the other.

    When you let a battery just sit, those charges make their way back to the other side and the two sides “equalize”, so our meter registers 0 volts eventually.

    when you put a load on the battery you give those charges a path of least resistance to follow but with the SAME result. You measure less in the battery because the two sides have equalized. The “load” didn’t “use up” the energy, it ran because the energy moved through it. Yes, there are losses in the load so you end with less than you started with.

    To charge a battery we use a tremendous amount of energy to force those charges back to one side. Consider this possibility when you look at what you saw happen.
    Last edited by Turion; 07-26-2022, 12:47 AM.

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  • Turion
    replied
    Wantomake,
    Thanks for the info.

    Bro,
    I started several different threads here only to be called a liar, fraud, con man and a few other choice things, even though I know that all the devices I shared actually work. Why would I go through that again? I am working off the forum with several people who actually build and share things. We have YouTube, Skype and What’s App as well as the phone and email. This forum is not necessary and I don’t have to put up with the crap.

    There are three people posting in this thread who even contribute a little. The rest are lurkers looking for a free ride. I say call a cab.
    Last edited by Turion; 07-26-2022, 12:32 AM.

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  • BroMikey
    replied
    Originally posted by wantomake View Post

    Well I have proof of God in me and believe and I saw with my eyes

    If you notice in the video I really displayed my ignorance of the 3BGS setup with everything connected to the negatives of the batteries instead of the positives.
    Me too I have seen the hand of THE ALMIGHTY thousands of times. Good to hear WANTO. These are small things to the limitless HAND but it sure feels good. WE have the ability to create and explore the hidden. Keep trying, I am looking for great things.

    @Dave
    Are you going to be turning on a new thread? Such as THE BASIC FREE ENERGY DEVICE? Since your other project is gone maybe your interest will peak on something practical and not obsolete.

    BTW I'll bet that smoke damage is hard to get out of your clothes

    I have Lithium batteries. My various high eff boosters should run between positives. I have multiple DC watt meters in that voltage range. These batteries are not like lead batteries, they offer little resistance when being charged plus the boosters operate in the khz band which is pulse charging coupled with constant current. I have capacitors. This takes away all of the excuses such as lead acid batteries failing.

    https://www.circuits-diy.com/boost-c...-555-timer-ic/



    Last edited by BroMikey; 07-25-2022, 09:34 PM.

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  • wantomake
    replied
    Originally posted by Turion View Post
    Wantomake,
    What did you do to make the heating go away? I really never had a problem with heating so when people asked me, the only suggestion I had was the replacement bearings because I did that to begin with. Or drilling vent holes in the case.
    Turion,
    I turned the voltage and amp settings down on the boost. The parallel batteries still charge up but not as fast. Therefore I sit at my work table and improve my notes while watching the setup run. Instead of 26 volts I'm set at 13 volts on the boost converter.

    BroMikey,
    I was told by someone that I'd tapped into the aether space and was getting free energy to the totally sulfated dead battery. My experience with batteries is you get six cells at 2 volts + or - per battery. If one cell is bad then that's generally 9 or 10 volts left in the dead battery. But that bad battery, if I remember correctly, had really low reading of voltage. So what reaction could one or several bad cells have on the capacity of the battery to cause it to jump up or down in voltage? I had two 50 watt dc bulbs attached directly to it!! Just asking. If I'm recalling correctly. It was my first observation of unexplained free energy. Turion correct me if I'm wrong, but you said to connect a load across the bad battery to keep it dead, with no voltage. I did that several times. Each time after turning off the system, the bad battery crashed back to zero volts with the two(2) 50 watt bulbs connected across it. So why was this 6 to 9 volt jump happening this particular discharge time??

    We all have the " I want to believe " either on our wall or in our life. Well I have proof of God in me and believe and I saw with my eyes something very alive in a strange battery. And now I believe. I tried for days to replicate the same "strange" event in that battery and it acted as if it never happened.

    Do you want to believe?
    ​​​​​
    ​​​​​​PS: If you notice in the video I really displayed my ignorance of the 3BGS setup with everything connected to the negatives of the batteries instead of the positives. I wasn't even correctly setup !!!

    ​​​​
    Last edited by wantomake; 07-25-2022, 09:11 PM.

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  • BroMikey
    replied
    Originally posted by wantomake View Post
    BroMikey your wire size is large compared to mine. I don't remember the gage though. I've rewound a couple a times. But no more heating of the Matt Motor.

    The treadmill motor was the one I used to rewire as the UFOpolitics motor generator back some time ago.
    You'll see it in this ancient video. Those were the days of wonder and growth.

    https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Dwk_bFXqiac&t=161s

    ​​
    Hey I remember that old battery video where the battery goes from 6v to 9 v. Must a been a broken cell. I use my scope with a small coil of wire placing the coil on the battery like a stethoscope on separate cell to see which is broken.
    Last edited by BroMikey; 07-25-2022, 09:11 PM.

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  • Turion
    replied
    Wantomake,
    What did you do to make the heating go away? I really never had a problem with heating so when people asked me, the only suggestion I had was the replacement bearings because I did that to begin with. Or drilling vent holes in the case.
    Last edited by Turion; 07-25-2022, 03:32 PM.

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  • wantomake
    replied
    BroMikey your wire size is large compared to mine. I don't remember the gage though. I've rewound a couple a times. But no more heating of the Matt Motor.

    The treadmill motor was the one I used to rewire as the UFOpolitics motor generator back some time ago.
    You'll see it in this ancient video. Those were the days of wonder and growth.

    https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Dwk_bFXqiac&t=161s

    ​​
    Last edited by wantomake; 07-25-2022, 10:41 AM.

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  • BroMikey
    replied
    Thane talks about his multiple mode coils and show them being switched under load.
    Crazy cool video if you can keep up.

    Self excited motor, regenx and quantum motor coil function. A careful review of the numbers shows a 40% reduction of battery consumption in this 3 coils setup


    Last edited by BroMikey; 07-24-2022, 10:49 PM.

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  • BroMikey
    replied

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  • BroMikey
    replied
    Here is a modified mtr in progress out of a high dollar treadmill. 90v @ 5 amp is a 1-3/4 hp










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  • BroMikey
    replied







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  • BroMikey
    replied
    Hey WANTO glad the weather might break. Here are the foto's I posted online in 2016. Been there 6 years and 1 month, I don't erase my work.

    More coming, stay tuned, it's a day to hide out of the heat. From 95 to 2002 I worked full time out doors in Walterboro SC and I was always soaked from head to toe with water running down into my socks. No joke.



    Last edited by BroMikey; 07-24-2022, 09:37 PM.

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  • wantomake
    replied
    Originally posted by Turion View Post
    Are you using the Matt motor to run a load, like turning
    a rotor with magnets on it past some Lenz free coils to supply power? That would be my first suggestion of the kind of contribution it can make. It adds basically no additional load to the system. The Matt motor is capable of the necessary 2800 rpm I needed for my original coils to run in a Lenz neutral state, which were simply 3 strands of # 23 each 1,000 feet long with steel rod cores made from welding rods per John Bedini. Too many coils and you will have to much magnetic drag, so two coils is probably your limit without neutralizing magnets.

    I’m not sure exactly how you are using the boost module and Matt motor in your setup. If you are running the boost module between the positives (which provides constant current to your two charge batteries in a four battery system) and then running the Matt motor between the output of the boost set to 24 volts and your two charge batteries (to provide a pulse) you can TRY replacing the Matt motor with the inverter. It will also provide a pulse as it charges then discharges capacitors to create AC power. The problem will be the frequency.

    As you saw, you needed to run the Matt motor at a specific voltage for it to “pulse” the batteries at the correct frequency.

    I would recommend putting a capacitor in parallel with your charge batteries to accept any energy that isn’t able to be used by just two batteries and is wasted. You saw my video where I charged 12 batteries at once, so the energy is THERE. Then run the inverter on the capacitor and see how that affects the charge cycle.

    I would not run on the source batteries unless you have back charging and the source batteries are also climbing. I have had them hold steady, but never had them actually charge when they were being used as the high side of the system. If they ARE charging, I would put a cap in parallel to collect any wasted energy and run the inverter off the cap.

    That’s all I got. Matt knows more and may disagree with everything I said.
    Found it! Thanks for good instructions and experiential knowledge that you share here.

    I'll place a DPDT switch for the inverter to stay on the charge side.

    BTW as you described above in second paragraph is how I'm setup with the Matt Motor and boost module between the positives.
    Last edited by wantomake; 07-24-2022, 02:43 PM.

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  • wantomake
    replied
    Good Sunday morning to All,
    It's been a stay in the house weekend while this heat wave is in this area. Was 100+ with the humidity yesterday.

    I want to get back to running some simple test with the Matt motor setup. Really want to connect the inverter up to a capacitor and see how many watts can be pulled from either the source side or charge side. Turion I remember you said to pull from which side. I'll go back and look to be sure. Sorry I do forget details sometimes. Lol!

    Looking forward to a cooler week ahead with hopeful shop time.
    ​​​​​

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  • BroMikey
    replied
    Originally posted by Turion View Post
    I make no judgement about anyone until I have replicated or at least TRIED to replicate their stuff. I know at least SOME of what he says is true. I also know he has a proprietary core material that he is using that is under an NDA, because of folks I know.
    Every OU transformer has had to get away from iron laminates. Core material is one of the most important components on the practical side after principles. Whether static or rotating it is a transformer.

    Many companies openly display their mix recipe. What we are looking for is a mix for not just a transformer but a power transformer. In the 90s I was told I could sign an NDA so I could see the right mix number for the next Gen switch mode pass transformers. A couple of years later it was common knowledge. If that person is under an NDA it is not just for one detail of the design, it's all of it. There is nothing extraordinary about his cores
    Last edited by BroMikey; 07-24-2022, 08:11 AM.

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