$100 bucks and learn to collect the back spike today, not in 5 years, See Bob Teal magnipulsion
See video switching 8 solenoid pistons on aliexpress
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/2255...xx__1662093514
https://ae01.alicdn.com/kf/Ha63121f3b79845eca553b89d6c924f8aq/V8-Electromagnetic-Generator-Model-High-Speed-Generator-Model-Electric-Start.jpg_Q90.jpg_.webp
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Originally posted by Turion View Post
The proof I WANTED SO BAD? Is that a joke? YOU are the one who insisted you wouldn't build it without proof!
That is a cool circuit. On the mechanical version, do you make grooves to glue your copper stripes? Or how are they attached even after they are all chopped in segments? What approx Dia of wooden dowel and is the distance around the circle mean anything? How does the duration change?
Glue some foil on a toilet paper roll. Incomplete info as usual. AFTer I build it you will simply say "not like that"
EDIT I built a $1000 plus ozone machine and hooked to pure oxygen, it cleans every smell you might have like smokeLast edited by BroMikey; 09-02-2022, 03:09 AM.
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If you are building an electronic version of the Tesla Switch, one thing John B said is ALL the transistors on one side and ALL the transistors on the other side must turn on at the same time. He recommended opticouplers to control that. Now I haven't found an "off the shelf" circuit board that will do that with transistors, but here's something for those who have some extra cash lying around and have a computer on their bench.
https://cablematic.com/en/products/p.../?cr=GBP&ct=GB
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Originally posted by Turion View PostWell, I can tell you from experience, that little things can make all the difference. I built 6 different models of the Tesla switch, 3 from Matt's publication, and three others with info from other sources. NONE of them did what I wanted them to do. Then Matt sent me a screen shot of what the wave on the scope needed to look like, and POW. Tuned it until THAT wave appeared and success. So it can be little things that are left out of the instructions that make ALL the difference. Who knows what instructions are missing from the P. Kelly stuff. It's a basis for research, and that's about all.
I personally have built a motor that runs off one battery and charges another. It has plenty of torque. I have seen 105% of the input come OUT of the output side, so by rotating the batteries you get a gain and you get motor power while charging a battery bank, as long as you remember to rotate. That is THE best mechanical setup I have ever seen, except for the mechanical Tesla Switch. But I have not built the Lindemann motor. Why would I spend all that money on a precision build of THAT device when I can make the one I am talking about with a drill press and a ban saw. Plus the LIndemann motor is "out there" for everyone to see, and yet we see no mass production of it. WHY is that? There are enough dishonest people around that you would think SOMEONE would take the idea and run with it if it was viable. Why no investors? Why?
Someone said I don't build anything. Here is the Tesla switch setup I have going right now. The transformer pictured is NOT the one I am using, but trying some different transformers and schematics from that point on is what makes it fun. For those who are interested : http://www.energeticforum.com/forum/...e-tesla-switch
If you're going to try and replicate a Tesla Switch, that thread is where you start. This is with the NEW Lithium batteries I just got. I have 9 of them now and need ALL of them for some of the circuits I work with to test the circuit before replacing them with other sources of energy input and/or collection.
Tesla Switch 8-26-2022.jpg
Turion did the MJL21194 transistors work out ok? I can't know they do until the transformer is finished. The transformer is a larger beast sized one but will see.
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Originally posted by Turion View PostI made a pretty serious mistake in what I said in the following video, and I don't have time tonight to redo it. The piece of metal on each end that the load connects to must go all the way around, but it must have the BREAKS in it also, or it will short out the whole thing.
Here is the video
https://youtu.be/4bZh7FV-jnc
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I made a pretty serious mistake in what I said in the following video, and I don't have time tonight to redo it. The piece of metal on each end that the load connects to must go all the way around, but it must have the BREAKS in it also, or it will short out the whole thing.
Here is the video. THIS IS AN UPDATED EDITED VIDEO TO CORRECT THE MISTAKE I MADE
https://youtu.be/IzNBr5CVdJQLast edited by Turion; 09-01-2022, 06:28 AM.
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Talk about handed it to me. This is a brain teaser, like a crossword puzzle. My weakness. you hate math, I hate crosswords. Still thinking. Well it is less boring than solar.
$13 is going to break the kitty? Sounds like me.
PS I'll bet smoke damage sucks. Use an OZONE MACHINE
EDIT I am not sure how to physically arrange the rotor. My bad.
Last edited by BroMikey; 09-01-2022, 02:20 AM.
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On the bottom of this schematic are five batteries, but only FOUR are connected at the same time.
Above the row of batteries are the five sections that would be on the rotor.
If you look at the first section, if the batteries were connected directly to it, the two batteries on the left would be put in series. The two batteries on the right would be in parallel, and the series batteries would be placed in parallel with the batteries in parallel, and the load would be between the positives.
5 Battery Mechanical Tesla Switch.jpgAttached Files
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Originally posted by BroMikey View Postthere is your proof you wanted so bad Dave
I've built MULTIPLE versions of the Tesla Switch, and have one on my bench RIGHT NOW that I am playing with.
I am also building the mechanical one turned by a motor just to prove the point. I have to wait until midnight tonight to order the parts because I am on a monthly budget for this kind of stuff, and I ran over budget last month by $13.00 so not going to push my luck.
I use this to make both the contacts on the roller and the connectors, as it is stiff enough that it can be bent into the proper shape.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...d=A14RYX6FZ58W
SInce these strips are a little over 1/8 of an inch wide, and you only need 12 on the rotor, it doesn't have to be a very long rotor. 4" long piece of 4" pipe with caps on both ends wide is plenty. Leaves you lots of space between strips.
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there is your proof you wanted so bad Dave and it stays charged without costing much 1/4 watt and you got 10-20watt. 1 panel gives 50watts knocks them both out twice, for peanuts. hook up a cap pulser, sssg and run panels like you do. Some need more than an experiment they need power like you get from panels. Why not do a video using all your experience showing the best way to solar charge batts. mppt? batts and panels? no kiddin
Last edited by BroMikey; 08-31-2022, 06:38 AM.
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Originally posted by Turion View PostHow many of these follow the schematic that John B posted
it will run for MONTHS, and during that time you collect FAR more energy out of the secondary of the load than is contained in the four batteries
Mechanical switching will give you the BEST results.
It requires you to use the RIGHT motor.
Peter says his attraction motor will do what is necessary.
..... it's a LOT of work and time and expense to run a 20 watt load basically forever. ...to PROVE to yourself that free energy exists,
edit is P. Kelly showing the JB skimatic?
Last edited by BroMikey; 08-31-2022, 02:55 AM.
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I'm building the 4 Battery switch setup but a little different than the posted videos. Thunderstorms in the afternoons and life slow the building.
Will be a few days before it's finished. Have all the parts with the exception of the one that will take a couple of days. Don't know how this will work but want this home built one to work before investing more.
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How many of these follow the schematic that John B posted for the Tesla Switch? How many of them follow a schematic of someone ELSE who actually built one that works? How many of them are just built by people who THINK they understand how and why a Tesla switch works? Do they have diodes in the right place? DO they even HAVE diodes in their schematic? Are they even running the load correctly on the transistors (if they are using transistors) John said the load in the Tesla switch ran DIFFERENTLY on the transistor than what people would normally do. And he discussed HOW to run it.
Just slap something together and post it on YouTube and call it a Tesla Switch because it has four batteries and runs a load. It's kinda like calling a kite an airplane because they both fly. It's bad enough this stuff gets posted on YouTube to perpetuate falsehoods and failure, but then you post it HERE without building it yourself.
In a working system the primaries don't go down, and the secondaries don't go up, except for small fluctuations. But you are able to run a load for free. If there are GAINS in the system, those gains come from the LOAD, not the Tesla Switch itself. How does a gain come from the load? Run in inverter or a boost module (between the positives on a Tesla Switch) AS THE LOAD for FREE, and what do you get coming out of the SECONDARY of either one? You get SOME energy that you didn't have to pay for because you ran it for free. With small batteries like most of these folks are using, 10-20 watts max load is all you will get. Will it run forever? NO But it will run for MONTHS, and during that time you collect FAR more energy out of the secondary of the load than is contained in the four batteries you were using. Which means you could have FOUR MORE batteries all charged up and ready to go. Or you can figure out a method of rotating them through to begin with.
Mechanical switching will give you the BEST results. 3d printers can help with that. I made my first mechanical switch from a piece of large PVC pipe (6" diameter, but smaller will work) that had copper plates glued on the outside and attached by wires on the inside. Then I had caps for each end that had a hole drilled through the center of them for a piece of all-thread. Before I put the cap on the pipe I stuck the all thread far enough through it that I was sure it would go through the pipe and out the hole in the cap on the other end. Then I threaded a nut on each side of the cap and tightened it down using all thread so they wouldn't come loose. This meant when the all thread rotated, the cap would rotate and the pipe it was glued onto would rotate. I did NOT glue the cap on the other end in case I ever needed to get it off to get to the wires inside for any reason.
How do you power the motor without using any energy so that all the energy produced by the Tesla switch is free? That's Simple. A very SImple Motor and circuit. It requires you to use the RIGHT motor. Peter says his attraction motor will do what is necessary. But that requires some machining. Another motor I've worked with will do it too. It not only runs, but can be used to charge up batteries while it is running, so that answers the question of how to charge the batteries you want to rotate into this system. I have built ALL these things, and it's a LOT of work and time and expense to run a 20 watt load basically forever. But if you want to PROVE to yourself that free energy exists, this will prove it. Making two rotors with six 1" diameter by 1/2" neo magnets in them is the HARD part. The rest can be built with the tools most guys have lying around. A hacksaw, a drill, and some tin snips to cut the copper.
I know this works, because I built it. And I will build it AGAIN just to prove the point. Not out of 6" diameter PVC though. The caps for that have gotten RIDICULOUS in price. I will struggle along with 4' since I have some, and have the caps already.
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