Muller generator replication by Romerouk

[quantumuppercut]

This is just too impressive to miss.

speeding in shorted coil - YouTube

[SkyWatcher]

Hi folks, That sounds worth giving a try, I think i have at least 3 old hard drives, are the covers mu metal also or just the magnet holders.

In the meantime, I am going to setup my older test rig for making tests to manifest this effect again, will use my external motor and belt drive to drive it, then I can play with different cores and such.

Nice work toranarod, I hope the mu metal shows some good results. Where did you get that stuff?
peace love light
tyson

[142857]

Hi Caroll,

see my reply #1244 above for the first link how to remove the magnets.

Magnets are glued to the back plate so hard to remove, using heat may help but you can easily demagnize the heatsensitive Neo magnets.

Gyula

I've never taken one apart where I couldn't get the magnet off with a tiny flat screwdriver and a little care.

some are hard, the ones with tiny thin magnets are the hardest (i have only broken one of these lil bity magnets)

Currently I have like 7 sets of HD magnets, all removed with a little precision screwdriver.

[toranarod]

mu metal

mu metal.
I am cutting up 150 of theses trips to make a laminated core

[gyula]

Ok I found the Mu metal part. Now how do I get the magnet off the Mu metal? Or do you just cut around the magnet and forget the part the magnet is attached to? It seems to be stuck on there pretty solidly. Can I put the Mu metal in a vise and try to knock the magnet off with a punch and hammer or is it glued in some way?

Carroll

Hi Caroll,

see my reply #1244 above for the first link how to remove the magnets.

Magnets are glued to the back plate so hard to remove, using heat may help but you can easily demagnize the heatsensitive Neo magnets.

Gyula

[gyula]

Here is the video I made with cap dump series gen coil acceleration. I was not doing the experiment with Romero in mind but thought it could apply once I looked at it long enough . It raised more questions (for me anyways) and lead to more tinkering which is the point for me. The video was originally recorded with the intent of PM'ing it to someone here and letting them go forward with it. If it helps thats great if not it shows what not to do.

One more thing. I was exhausted from several late nights of experiments plus working all day. A few times it sounds like I am drunk but I'm not just tired. Getting old and cannot stay up anymore like I could when I was younger

http://fan1701.com/stuff/Energetic_files/Gen_coil_in_series.wmv

Sorry no youtube.

al

Hi Al,

Thank you for your video link, it is helpful.
You wrote: "I had placed a diode between the dump switch and the drive battery but was not convinced that it was doing anything."
Would like to show a schematic from another thread here from which you could use capacitor C and store all the energy in it that you recaptured and feed back to the front, and it also contains a diode in the negative line of the battery or power supply:

http://www.energeticforum.com/inductive-resistor/4314-cop-17-heater-rosemary-ainslie.html#post56075

By the help of D1 the fedback energy cannot reach the battery but is accumulated in the electrolytic capacitor, designated as C. Whenever the charge (voltage) level is higher in this C cap than the battery voltage, the rest of your circuit would be driven from the C and when the C is discharged below the voltage of the battery, then current is taken from the battery again. This way you could monitor the voltage level in the C, it can be a good indication how well the recaptured energy (including your series gen coils) supports the prime input energy. For the value of capacitor, it needs experimenting, may range from 470uF to 2200uF, at least 63V DC rated (for lower uF range it needs even higher DC voltage rating like 160V or 250V).

With this D1 and capacitor C inserting, your recaptured energy manifests as a voltage level in the cap and whenever this level is higher than your supply voltage, the input current is taken from this cap and not from the battery. (Of course, if your circuit consume too fast the charge from the cap then you may not see any higher voltage level than the battery (except the difference, the diode D1 forward voltage drop).

Gyula

[citfta]

Thanks

Ok I found the Mu metal part. Now how do I get the magnet off the Mu metal? Or do you just cut around the magnet and forget the part the magnet is attached to? It seems to be stuck on there pretty solidly. Can I put the Mu metal in a vise and try to knock the magnet off with a punch and hammer or is it glued in some way?

Carroll

[gyula]

An addition to ewizard explanation, see the Backing plate in the link and how to remove it:

Hard Disk Drive Magnets For Wind Turbines - Wind

and also the Cover plate must be another good 'shield' material (and not so thick like the backing plate) shown here:

File:HardDiskAnatomy.jpg - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

(Notice 1: the hard disk and its components are placed on the surface of a mirror.
Notice 2: the backing plate is rather thick (to have appropiate cross section for the Neo magnets) and use it with suspicion to eddy currents in it, just due to its thickness, from this respect the cover plate maybe better because it is much thinner, also easier to cut it up for getting a kind of lamination)

[ewizard]

Where exactly in the old hard drive? I have several of them but I am not sure what is the Mu metal part. Are you talking about the shiny disc the data is stored on?

Thanks for sharing a good source for the Mu metal. If Rod keeps going like he has been all the old drives are going to disappear quickly from the flea markets and yard sales. I already have a pretty good collection from all my years of messing with old computers. I guess it is a good thing to be a pack rat sometimes.

Carroll

No not the disk. It's what the neo magnets are attached to. Pics below of what the commonly look like (the mu metal part):
(that round ring in the second pic is just a ring magnet. The other ones are mu metal with the neo magnets on the back of them holding them to a computer case)

[citfta]

Mu metal

Where exactly in the old hard drive? I have several of them but I am not sure what is the Mu metal part. Are you talking about the shiny disc the data is stored on?

Thanks for sharing a good source for the Mu metal. If Rod keeps going like he has been all the old drives are going to disappear quickly from the flea markets and yard sales. I already have a pretty good collection from all my years of messing with old computers. I guess it is a good thing to be a pack rat sometimes.

Carroll

[eternalightwithin]

Question about HDDs

How old? All brands?

[RAMSET]

Mu Metal For Hero's

You Fellahs are amazing,Tenacious..............
Elias
Mu metal is in Old Hard drives .
It protects the Magnetically sensitive components
Start Bustin up the old Computers.....

Thank you fellows ,this is amazing stuff!!

Chet

[elias]

nice work SkyWatcher.
I had often wondered why Muller had the coils wound more to the back like that. I am still trying to cut strips of this MU metal to make a laminated core

Well done, What is exactly mu metal and where can I get some?

[elias]

Now at about this instant it finds the iron core. Iron has a relative permeability of 4,000 μ/μ0 (see Electrical Steel). This is roughly 4,000 times more attractive to the field than air and stagnant copper. The field jumps forward to take a path through the core, this accelerates the rotor. Not only that, but while the field chooses the core over the coil, lenz isn't there!

When I first observed this effect I just could not believe my eyes, I used welding rods for the core, and those were not so appropriate and had significant eddy drag. I could get the rotor accelerate at about 1200 RPM. My cores were about 40mm in diameter, pretty large.
I have documented my tests here: http://www.energeticforum.com/renewa...e-obvious.html

When Rod told me, that the effect is valid only for Iron cores, that hit me, I bought many laminations today, and I am going to test them out. It seems to me that we are almost done, and 2011 is really the year that free energy is going to become obvious!

It is very simple, the reaction just happens a bit late, so that it assists the rotor, instead of resisting. See the explanation over here:
Inertial Propulsion

Here is the quote:
Elias

[toranarod]

Hi folks, I tried the same pole magnets facing each other with bifilar air coil in canceling mode and of course no voltage to speak of, though when the bifilar is wired in normal mode, i got about 400 millivots spinning by hand, though that could be because magnet distance to coil of one rotor was different. Not sure how to extract that virtual current.

So I decided to test it out as a bedini motor and it worked pretty good, though the resistance of the main coil is a little low, too many amps at 12 volts.

Anyway, when I made my experiments in the past and saw the speed up effect, I used 1/2" diameter steel bolt cores with 1" diameter neos.
Now the bolts have that large hex head sticking out and overlapping somewhat and could have made a difference in the effect being seen more readily.

Meaning if what shadesz says is close to what may be happening, then the large bolt head may help to get the flux to bypass the incoming coil side briefly.
I mean, wasn't this part of the idea Muller used, with the fewer coil windings at the front and the majority at the back so as to minimize lentz at the front core face permanent magnet interaction.
I even watched a video presentation with Peter L. where he showed this method and said how valuable the idea is.
So that's what I did originally, I ran my magnet rotor past the steel bolt end without any coil windings, as the windings were set back a couple inches and the effect was there to be had at lower rpm.
Then I thought to use dual rotors with a magnet rotor on each side of coil/core and got the effect with much more output. Then Realized at some point that with a high enough rotor speed, that only one magnet rotor was needed at the coil/core face.
Though the dual rotor setup, had very nice output and the effect was had at lower rpm.
Here's a cad pic of the setup that gave nice effects and output. It had 18 gauge wire.



Uploaded with ImageShack.us

peace love light
tyson

nice work SkyWatcher.
I had often wondered why Muller had the coils wound more to the back like that. I am still trying to cut strips of this MU metal to make a laminated core