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  • Turion
    replied
    The motor I am currently using has the right size shaft. It is 124V DC. It can handle over 17 amps. It will do well above the 2800 RPM required. I'm not looking for a "better" motor than what I have, and I have two of them. I am not worried about losses because of belt drive. All that means is it's EASIER to make it better. After all, this is a prototype, not a production model.

    In the video it showed 70 volts output of the Variac to get the required RPM, but on my DC meter across the motor it shows 97 volts. And it is drawing 3.5 amps turning the rotor with no coils in place. Hopefully those requirements won't go up too far with the addition of coils. Time will tell.

    My big question now is output. With these exact same coils with iron cores running at the chosen RPM, I got 130 volts at 1.5 amps. But this is a NEW core material and the rotor has twenty four 3/4" x 3/4" magnets instead of the original six 2" diameter x 1/4" magnets. Four times as many magnets, but smaller. Outputs will be different.
    Last edited by Turion; 01-16-2022, 08:52 PM.

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  • BroMikey
    replied
    Originally posted by Turion View Post
    I wanted the higher voltage lower amperage motor because the coils output high voltage, low amperage. Figuring out how to loop this will be a fun little project.


    I will do my best to get a couple coils done tomorrow. I have some spacers I MAY be able to use. No rush.
    Treadmill motor 1000w or 90vdc motors have more shaft. Either way they are all 2 pole or 4 pole. 2 pole target is 3600rpm at 120v but a 90vdc motor goes a little slower. Search 90v dc motor. the last one I posted is a 4800 rpm motor and it runs 90vdc. I am not sure how the motor company did that.

    Hand grinding nickel iron? naw, use a disk sander. I smooth steel shafts all the time, grinding leaves gouges. A small circular disk action can eat off more than a grinder without all of the heat. Makita makes a nice carpenter sanders. One I paid $15 for has 2 grit on it for iron pipe rust or any steel welds. A fine grit can polish it clean and most of all FLAT

    1100w it closer than 2300w like your motor and the volts are close to 100v, look at all that shaft. Direct drive is best, less loss.
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/35350133080...b87a%7Ciid%3A1
    Last edited by BroMikey; 01-16-2022, 06:11 PM.

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  • Turion
    replied
    Alex,
    I know you have worked on that, and it is more than I have done. There is a lot to learn to make that work properly, but if we can switch fast enough to make an electric motor, we should be able to switch fast enough to do as you have done. My goal was to prove the things I have shared are true, and that will be enough for me.

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  • alexelectric
    replied
    That's right Mr. Dave.

    I did some tests with a core and magnets of the N rotor, on the opposite side of the rotor at 180 I put the repulsion coil, the activation was done with a circuit with a hall sensor, which activated the coil when the magnet and core were facing each other , try to activate it with the least amount of energy and enough so that only the rotor continues its march, so that the inertia of the previous attraction between the magnet and the nucleus continues as if they were not there.

    This system that I am telling you about can be experimented with another prototype later on, you, Mr. Dave, if everything goes well with your project as you are doing it, you will finish it, and I acknowledge you for your efforts and dedication.

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  • Turion
    replied
    I wanted the higher voltage lower amperage motor because the coils output high voltage, low amperage. Figuring out how to loop this will be a fun little project.

    With coils as "opposition magnets" it might be possible to have only one set of magnets in the rotor and they could possibly be N/S, which you need to give correct output power. Because coils can be fired as either an N "Magnet" coil facing the rotor or an S "Magnet" facing the rotor. With an odd number of generator coils, and an even number of magnets, whenever a rotor magnet is aligned with a generator coil, the magnet directly across the rotor from it is aligned directly BETWEEN two coils and if there was a smaller coil there that could be fired "between the positives" it could negate the attraction of the rotor magnet to the coil core. With N/S magnets on the rotor it would have to fire N/S. too

    I will do my best to get a couple coils done tomorrow. I have some spacers I MAY be able to use. No rush.
    Last edited by Turion; 01-16-2022, 05:12 AM.

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  • BroMikey
    replied
    Friend of mine Joe age 65yrs fell over dead Dec 30th can't believe he is gone. Was driving and had a heart attack. The doctors said he was AAA no problems.

    here is me Dave in 1975

    Last edited by BroMikey; 01-16-2022, 12:56 PM.

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  • alexelectric
    replied
    Greetings

    Mr. Dave, I agree with BroMikey, take things carefully, don't be in a hurry, if you had an assistant to back you up and help you complete your project, and don't get overconfident, that machine has a lot of mechanical strength, don't stop taking your precautions.

    He has a good project of which he has illustrated and explained everything about it, I see that it can be improved every time, for example, the magnetic neutralization magnets, he has considered that this could be replaced by coils that a pulse is applied to so that it repels the magnet at the right time and thus help the rotation of the broken one, without the retention or attraction of the core - magnet as you have commented

    The pulse to the coil would be only to continue the path of the rotor, and not as an aid to increase the speed, just to help the rotor to continue the path, of course, some energy would be used here, but little.

    This principle of using support coils for the rotation of the rotor of the motor-generator is the proposal of Robert Adams, who used some driving coils to solve the core-magnet attraction.

    Well this comment would be for later, since he wants to culminate it as the proposal of magnets of him repulsing each other and thus the construction of his machine is finished, and it takes time and effort, thank you very much for the videos.

    Greetings and see you soon

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  • BroMikey
    replied
    Doing some digging, check back.


    This one is 1200w 1hp at 4800rpm so direct drive this run at 45vdc?
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/17492333410...MAAOSwMbZhM2C0

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  • Turion
    replied
    I would recommend:
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    It fits a 1/2" shaft but I bet they make the same thing for metric. When you tighten the pulley (sold separately) it squeezes the bushing onto the shaft. That's why the bushing is split. One bushing and you can purchase different sized pulleys that fit it. That's why I made the sleeve that screws onto the razor scooter motor the size I did, so its diameter matched the motor I am currently using. And several OTHER motors I have. One bushing fits all. And then one bushing that fits the generator shaft.

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  • BroMikey
    replied
    The arbor sleeve that screws on must also have a recessed locking pin as well as the pulley. Loctite will not hold long.

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  • BroMikey
    replied
    Look like you are SOL, the 1 handed man This is a complicated box, don't do anything rash. Those cores need a machinist to make it flush all of the way across. In other words a very sharp tool not a dull grinder. Get them all Machined. Remember you had the box re-done and that could have changed things. I saw the ends of the cores and they look rounded

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  • Turion
    replied
    That last motor looks good! Looks like shaft is long enough to actually USE it for something.

    I put two coils in the machine and started it up. Very unpleasant grinding sound. Apparently the cores are sticking out far enough to rub on the rotor magnets. Some grinding needs to be done and I can't hold the coils with one hand to do it. Going to have to build some kind of jig to hold coils. Plus, core is made out of many tiny wires glued together with high temp epoxy. Grinding may do a number on them. Would be best to put a sleeve of pipe the right length on the end of the core, and grind off anything that sticks out past it. That would hold the wires in place and keep them from getting ruined. Got a call in to see what we can do. Maybe spacers/shims a few 1,000ths thick with a 3/4 diameter hole is the way to go. Slip a few on the end of the core before I put it in and rotate rotor by hand to see if problem is solved. Epoxy each one so magnet doesn't remove it if they are magnetic.

    I did a whole video on how I filed each core to make sure it fit in the hole (diameter) but didn't think to check for length. I didn't make the coils. I just wound them. My partners made them. Core was supposed to stick out of coil 1/4". I KNOW they used a 1/4" spacer!!!!
    Last edited by Turion; 01-15-2022, 10:57 PM.

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  • BroMikey
    replied
    Originally posted by Turion View Post
    Pulling 70 volts on the Variac and it is only rated for 5 amps I believe. Will have to look at that. So 2800 RPM is easily achievable with this setup. Next step is to test two coils. Will do that this afternoon. Gonna rest my hand for a bit. It is not happy about being put back to work. It is broken but almost perfectly aligned, so no surgery. Besides, it’s close to lunch time. Any excuse not to work.

    Go in Tuesday to have a long term splint made. For now my hand is just wrapped and I can’t use it without regretting it.

    if two coils without magnetic adjustment do not draw too many amps from the Variac, I can at least get the required RPM figured out and two coil output to load data today.


    https://youtu.be/jkPACdHWg8k

    I have nightmares about that motor you show. I had the shaft on one of my MY1020 motors just break off. If I switch this back to direct drive ( the eventual plan) I will keep that motor in mind.
    Darn it I didn't know that, sorry, let me give it some thought. There is another version same size pmm with a regular shaft goes to 100vdc. I find it again, brb on that one

    Anyway you need to rest and the crew needs to pick up the $%@^& slack, next weekend? Tuesday is along way to get a doctor. I have to wait till mar 8th and it hurts.

    Thanks to your team you are getting some progress, great guys, buy pizza and brewski's

    edit: https://www.ebay.com/itm/30339971352...4AAOSwPsJXP2fh

    edit: All shaft coupler must have a retaining pin
    https://teamknkhardware.com/replacement-parts-hop-ups/1392-enduro-pivot-balls.html

    https://teamknkhardware.com/replacem...vot-balls.html

    Last edited by BroMikey; 01-15-2022, 10:19 PM.

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  • Turion
    replied
    Pulling 70 volts on the Variac and it is only rated for 5 amps I believe. Will have to look at that. So 2800 RPM is easily achievable with this setup. Next step is to test two coils. Will do that this afternoon. Gonna rest my hand for a bit. It is not happy about being put back to work. It is broken but almost perfectly aligned, so no surgery. Besides, it’s close to lunch time. Any excuse not to work.

    Go in Tuesday to have a long term splint made. For now my hand is just wrapped and I can’t use it without regretting it.

    if two coils without magnetic adjustment do not draw too many amps from the Variac, I can at least get the required RPM figured out and two coil output to load data today.


    https://youtu.be/jkPACdHWg8k

    I have nightmares about that motor you show. I had the shaft on one of my MY1020 motors just break off. Fortunately, at the time, I was using it to direct drive the generator. With the belt and pulley arrangement I have now, if that happened I can just imagine things flying around. With the sleeve I had made and a pulley, there is even more stress on the shaft. Unless you are going to use it as a direct drive motor, I wouldn’t recommend it. And even then I would be extremely cautious.

    At the time the shaft broke I did NOT have magnetic neutralization figured out yet, so there was a lot more torque on the shaft to turn the rotor. If I switch this back to direct drive ( the eventual plan) I will keep that motor in mind.
    Last edited by Turion; 01-15-2022, 07:55 PM.

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  • BroMikey
    replied
    Calling all circuit wizards 35$ bucks pre-made hook it up, come on make sense. This one puts out 20a at 50vdc all day and takes in 110vdc. This is exactly what is needed for the motor upgrade. Clean and quick, do it.

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/36368519020...0AAOSws4Rh2~iM

    WZ10020 1000W Step Down Module DC Buck Converter Output 0-100V MPPT Solar Panel Charging Power Supply






    Last edited by BroMikey; 01-15-2022, 08:15 PM.

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