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  • BroMikey
    replied
    oops I must have been in a hurry when I made that money error. On the 6 strand version Dave puts some of his coils 3000 feet in series and some of it parallel. Tell me if this is right Dave. 1000ffft = 500+500 used in series then he does that 2 more times. Then each 1000ft are put in parallel. This means that each 1000 feet gives 500ma at the said voltage for a total of 1500ma at said voltage.

    The coil sets of 2 did put out 200w-450w depending on the cores and the magnets on the rotor. Personally I will make a guess of 400w per coil set this time or this version. Even at 350w per coil set comes to over 2000w. The drive motor is way cheaper than that to run and that is not possible I am told

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  • bistander
    replied
    Originally posted by Turion View Post
    TEMCo 23 AWG Copper Magnet Wire - 10 lb 6268 ft 200C Magnetic Coil Winding
    One coil is enough for 6 strands at 1,000 feet per strand, or TWO coils. To create 12 coils you need SIX spools at $104.00 with free shipping from Amazon. That's more like $624.00 for just the wire for 12 coils. BELIEVE me, I know. I've gone through several sets of coils where I had to throw the whole SET of coils away because they got too hot with those iron cores. Shorted out. You will have about 1,600 feet of wire left over. ​​​​​​...
    ​​​​
    For magnets and wire, over $1,000.00


    But you know, it doesn't work, so I have built like 17 versions of this just because I like to spend money.
    Can you help me understand how you connect your coil as Tesla style bifilar using three 1000' strands?
    bi

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  • Turion
    replied
    TEMCo 23 AWG Copper Magnet Wire - 10 lb 6268 ft 200C Magnetic Coil Winding
    One coil is enough for 6 strands at 1,000 feet per strand, or TWO coils. To create 12 coils you need SIX spools at $104.00 with free shipping from Amazon. That's more like $624.00 for just the wire for 12 coils. BELIEVE me, I know. I've gone through several sets of coils where I had to throw the whole SET of coils away because they got too hot with those iron cores. Shorted out. You will have about 1,600 feet of wire left over


    12 of these https://www.magnet4less.com/neodymiu...untersunk-hole @ 3.95 = $47.40
    24 of these https://www.magnet4less.com/super-st...-x-1-8-in-disc @ $ .86 = $20.64
    48 of these https://www.magnet4less.com/super-st...-4-in-cylinder @ $6.45 = 309.60 plus $25 shipping
    About $402.00 for magnets

    For magnets and wire, over $1,000.00


    But you know, it doesn't work, so I have built like 17 versions of this just because I like to spend money.
    Last edited by Turion; 01-11-2022, 08:40 AM.

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  • BroMikey
    replied
    The ultimate obvious discussion

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  • BroMikey
    replied
    it cost $350 for just the wire for 12 coils. An entire box build would be in the thousands, it would be well worth it $500 for magnets?

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/37069094534...0AAOSwzc1brp-b
    Last edited by BroMikey; 01-11-2022, 05:18 AM.

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  • BroMikey
    replied
    All I have to say is you got lucky but most of all you did the right thing. Drilling out red hot metal bolts sitting in plastic is a big no no.that hole would have melted sideways. thx 4 sharing all your hard work. The excitement is building

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  • Turion
    replied
    Recessed nuts were required so the belt drive didn't hit nuts sticking out the back of the machine or the bolts they were on either. The adjustment bolts that MUST stick out the back to be usable were a higher priority. Hard to work the belt arrangement out to avoid ALL of them. The nuts were recessed on purpose.

    I thought about drilling out the bolt head, which was also inset, but if any PART of it remained, it would have been recessed and impossible to access easily. That would have been a nightmare. The bolt shaft with a chunk of the head still attached wouldn't go down the hole and would have caused me even MORE headache. I would no longer have had a place for the Allen wrench to go into, holding the bolt while I attempted to back the nut out with the socket set. I would have been reduced to trying to drive the bolt out the hole with some kind of punch and hoping the piece of the head that was still attached bent out of the way or broke off. I considered all of this. So drilling the bolt out became plan C. If I couldn't back the nut out far enough to cut the head off because the Allen "hole" stripped out, I would have been forced to drill it. As it was, cutting the head off took about the same time as drilling it would. Time lost was backing the nut off far enough to get the head of the bolt clear enough to cut off. And it still left me with the drilling option if it wasn't successful.

    Today's project...

    https://youtu.be/fNmIhOOUOfc
    Attachments area
    Preview YouTube video Coils


    Coils

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  • BroMikey
    replied
    A true master mechanic will share the torque chart with the beginners in class. See chart
    https://www.fandisc.com/uploads/8/4/...orque_orig.gif
    You have a grade 3 bolts and might have been lied to about that. The chart says to stay under 40 psi so anywhere from 25 - 35 psi and often not that high for junk steel.

    See chart grade 8 bolts are 100-120 psi. These are specs for a 1/4"-20 bolt. The bolt price for good steel is a few cents more. Cast steel bolt threads are like cast steel pipe threads. Once cross threaded you have a nightmare.

    China sells both cheap cast steel bolts and high grade. Like cheap drills and higher grade cobalt drills. If you ever got stuck with those cheesy drills you have your answer of what not to buy.
    Last edited by BroMikey; 01-10-2022, 11:40 PM.

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  • BroMikey
    replied
    Originally posted by bistander View Post

    OK. Rather awkward design using recessed nuts like that. My plan B would have been to drill out the tapered heads. The hex hole would give a .281" drill an easy start. Just drill into the bolt diameter and push it out.

    bi
    Okay Dave here it is "TODAY'S LESSON' Bye has now officially given his expert advice. You should have drilled it out? Why didn't I think of that? yeah Dave you should have drilled it out and next time "no recess" Dave.

    Bye, is really turning out to be a great help, don't you think?

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  • bistander
    replied
    Originally posted by Turion View Post
    bi,
    Unfortunately, the end of the bolt that contained the nut was recessed in the plastic, accessible only by a deep socket. I did manage to get the OTHER end of two of the bolts out far enough to cut the heads off with a Dremel tool, which requires far less effort than using a nut splitter. I have one, but the nut was not out far enough to get it on the nut. Dremel worked better. The only trick was holding the Allen end of the bolt in place. To do that I had to put a 12" crescent wrench on the Allen wrench to give me the leverage I needed to hold it in place while turning the nut with a socket. And I wan't using the crescent wrench in the normal manner.....stuck the Allen through the hole in the handle of the wrench, and used the wrench as a lever.
    OK. Rather awkward design using recessed nuts like that. My plan B would have been to drill out the tapered heads. The hex hole would give a .281" drill an easy start. Just drill into the bolt diameter and push it out.

    bi

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  • Rakarskiy
    replied
    Originally posted by BroMikey View Post
    Here in this video, the solution to the principle of the acceleration module of the "Earth engine". In general, it's ingeniously simple

    https://youtu.be/dmJROB0tFQ8?list=PL...ZTDlCnZdFATOva

    Leave a comment:


  • BroMikey
    replied
    Bye is still licking his wounds the scaredy cat that he is, for all his crimes. If I was Bye Id'e be chicken-little too. He should be ashamed of himself

    BTW not 2 change the subject here is a solid state motor generator called a BiTT @ Overunity which is almost the identical tests I got (1.5-2 COP) I did and got the same results with iron cores at 60hz Thanks Doug

    I followed Bil Alek and made my 2 secondaries the same which they then cancelled, to as near to zero as possibly, where the input drops right down. A phase conjugate mirror


    Last edited by BroMikey; 01-10-2022, 06:15 AM.

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  • Turion
    replied
    bi,
    Unfortunately, the end of the bolt that contained the nut was recessed in the plastic, accessible only by a deep socket. I did manage to get the OTHER end of two of the bolts out far enough to cut the heads off with a Dremel tool, which requires far less effort than using a nut splitter. I have one, but the nut was not out far enough to get it on the nut. Dremel worked better. The only trick was holding the Allen end of the bolt in place. To do that I had to put a 12" crescent wrench on the Allen wrench to give me the leverage I needed to hold it in place while turning the nut with a socket. And I wan't using the crescent wrench in the normal manner.....stuck the Allen through the hole in the handle of the wrench, and used the wrench as a lever.

    Leave a comment:


  • BroMikey
    replied
    Originally posted by Turion View Post
    I have no idea what voltage or amps the coils will output. The new rotor has 24 magnets not 12, which is the most I ever had. This will have an impact on output. Also the clearance between rotor magnet and coil has gone down from 1/4” to about 1/16 or LESS. So we will just have to see. They were getting over 300 volts open voltage with the OLD coils and a 12 magnet rotor at 2800 RPM.

    What actual output under load conditions with new coils, new rotor and new spacing will be I would rather not say until I see it on the bench. I could add 4 more magnets if I went with a new rotor, but that’s for another time. Right now I just want to see what this machine will do. Old coils, old rotors and old machines are in the past. I’m moving forward with what we have figured out works.
    thx 4 the snappy reply I have been suffering 18hrs per day from enlarged prostate due to the chemo I am out of the woods today.

    Yes I agree that a 1/4" gap will not show much power. 300volts or even 200volt per set would be great let's hope for the best. When I had a 1/4" gap I only got 2v per strand(175ft) and went it was tightened up to 60 thousandths the voltage was 20v per strand.

    Bench work is a wonderful thing. I am so glad to hear you invoke Aaron's name concerning this years pow wow up state. People who are going to go better get a ticket fast because it will sell out fast. Who knows maybe an investor will put up some money and make a fuel-less RV energy generators

    That would be an excellent low profile choice to introduce a new device to the market. Naturally not everyone could afford one at first but there will always be those who will get it regardless of the price.
    Last edited by BroMikey; 01-10-2022, 05:27 AM.

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  • Turion
    replied
    I have no idea what voltage or amps the coils will output. The new rotor has 24 magnets not 12, which is the most I ever had. This will have an impact on output. Also the clearance between rotor magnet and coil has gone down from 1/4” to about 1/16 or LESS. So we will just have to see. They were getting over 300 volts open voltage with the OLD coils and a 12 magnet rotor at 2800 RPM.

    What actual output under load conditions with new coils, new rotor and new spacing will be I would rather not say until I see it on the bench. I could add 4 more magnets if I went with a new rotor, but that’s for another time. Right now I just want to see what this machine will do. Old coils, old rotors and old machines are in the past. I’m moving forward with what we have figured out works.
    Last edited by Turion; 01-10-2022, 12:58 AM.

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