Motor Generators

[Turion]

Back from my trip. My stuff should have been ready last week, but half the shop at my machinist's place came down with Covid, so it will not be ready until Tuesday of next week. Then I will have to assemble it all. But finally on the downhill. It's a 2.5 hour round trip, but because of the delay they are delivering it to my door. Can't beat that.

[BroMikey]

JOKE OF THE DAY

This is the same thing as your flywheel gen

[BroMikey]

By all means try try try and do bench work is good. Book smarts go only so far then you have to sweat. Don't let the math make you quit ,Keep at it and best of luck. It has always been my assumption that success will come when you modify the generator and motor. Stop the generator cogging and recirculate motor power or collect back 85% and then you will win.

Those beautiful motor generator flywheel projects are all over the web that never get close after spending many thousands on all the best motors and generators. There is more to it than luck. Thousands of tubers fail this project.

Put in 120w and get back 100w on the motor modification circuit see Lindemann video this is the number one starting place. Later improve the generator to zero drag / cogging.

have fun most of all and you will learn the hard way ( best of all learn) like everybody does

[Memphis]

I do not think that Chas Campbell had motors with higher efficiency than mine since it uses a part of the permanent magnetic fields, and the same as the generator. The video you suggested I was already following it, but I have to finish it.

[Memphis]

thanks Bro, very encouraging, .... at least I try, and I try various ways, rather than calculating on formulas that we know to be deceptive and false, the deep-state has always kept us in ignorance, we have to try and try again, after all, what about Chas Campbell's flywell generator ...? a few years ago I tried to replicate the larger version that brings the book "free energy device", the system did not work, and then I wondered, if instead of pushing the flywheel wheel with sleds that require a lot of work and they make a lot of noise during their operation (and I know something because my wheel was about 7 feet in diameter and 800 lbs, when it was in motion it made a hellish noise, the photo of one of the 3 thrust systems you can see it appear on my profile) I had thought of using an impulse system, a simple, economical attempt that can pave the way for variations, in the meantime I try, and within a few days I realize and evaluate, most of the inventions have been done casually, and not sitting down to study at a table.

[BroMikey]

I will try to explain myself..... save energy and try to avoid the back-emf.

that is your problem, you will always have back-emf with or without a weight. your cogging problem is immense. Your weight is wrong, your ratio is wrong and you have no belt slip.

There is no free lunch just because it's you trying hard. Your motor efficiency sucks, your generator efficiency sucks and what is worse is you have never calculated it.

Go to minute 6 in the instructional and minute 18 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OSJF3GlYGVc

Question #1 & #2

is your motor efficiency over 65%? and the alternator?

Efficiency is overall and not just a pulse circuit. Your problem is that with a 65% motor and a 65% generator you have an overall percentage of 30% or maybe 20%

You must start from the beginning finding motor eff. not connected to anything. Then add a pulse circuit not loaded then measure again. Neither motor or generator is lenz free even with a few magnets added.

Let's say you found a motor that operated at 90% efficiency but that number may drop to 50% upon connecting to your flywheel then get a bigger motor and re-calculate

Good luck and I hope this helps you back to reality so you are not left wishing on a star.

[Memphis]

[Memphis]

I am mistaken, they sold me the motor as brushless, but now that I have disassembled it I have been able to see that it is actually a permanent magnet motor mounted on the stator, now I will look for the fault, otherwise I will take one truly brushless three-phase together with a wpm regulator and I solve the problem.

[bistander]

Photo of Hydronit motor

Thank you.
It does not appear to be a BLDC nor have any information on the label stating that. The website for Hydronit does not mention the use of BLDC and products pictured there appear to be typical brush DC motors.

To operate your motor, you simply hook up 2 wires to the battery, correct? That is a big clue that it is a brush type DC motor. A brushless motor (BLDC) with 2 wires would need an electronic controller inside the motor housing. That is seldom done in the size and type of motor you have, a hydraulic pump drive unit for automotive/truck/industrial applications.

The nameplate indicates that motor is rated for intermittent duty of 5 minutes or 15% on-time which is unlikely to stabilize thermally at any continuous load.
bi

[Memphis]

[bistander]

Gentlemen, you know that there are brushless motors with 3 wires, therefore three-phase, and those with direct current, naturally with 2 wires where the rotation of the stator magnetic fields is obtained by an electronic circuit that reads the position of the rotor through a sensor.

Memphis,
please read this.

https://www-electricaltechnology-org...principle.html

Also, In the photos it does not appear to be a BLDC. How do you know it is rated 500W? Please post pictures of motor, nameplate, and terminals or wires. Where did you get it?
bi

[Memphis]

Gentlemen, you know that there are brushless motors with 3 wires, therefore three-phase, and those with direct current, naturally with 2 wires where the rotation of the stator magnetic fields is obtained by an electronic circuit that reads the position of the rotor through a sensor.

[BroMikey]

In memory of John Bedini motor generator lee matrix been experimenting for decades.

[BroMikey]

About the REGENX

Let me point out why Thane is not being excepted as legit. Take a look at this statement from the Ottawa science community..........

" Complicating the analysis of Heins’ apparatus is the fact that he is not running his motor at full voltage and normal speed. Instead, he supplies it from a variac (a device for varying AC voltage), at a voltage well below the 120V that the motor is designed for. As a consequence, it runs at only a few hundred revolutions per minute, instead of the approximately 3500rpm"

And most people see this and think Thane is a huckster. Induction motor run full speed at 50vac all the way to 120vac. See how easy it is to trick you? Thane's discovery will make all of the other story book experiments look like toys. This is why Thane is rejected.

Rejecting an honest demo of Thane's work shows intent. Instead he is portrayed as a fraud. Here is the website of clown engineers who have no clue.

http://www.ottawaskeptics.org/2008/0...hermodynamics/

here is one more foolhardy slander

" Running it at such a low speed causes it to overheat,"

False, induction motors do not run below their rated rpm until they are severely overloaded. Thane is running his grinder motor at 150watts on up to 280watts for a 1/2hp. Clearly the people who are afraid of Thane don't do any bench work. Most go with this line of reasoning going along just to get along. The blind following the blind is so much like the masses it's laughable.

My 1/2hp washing machine motors top out at 9amps and that is the run load draw right on the nameplate or sticker.

A new day is dawning and the worry warts are going to be dumbstruck.

Here is Ottawa's final assessment of poor ole despised Thane based on their infinite reasoning powers that most of you agree with.

"Conclusion
Heins appears earnest and basically honest, but persistently self-deluded."

[BroMikey]

That thing is banging. OMG and losing or wasting power from all the friction. Cadman is right a slipping the pulley for start up. Regardless of the name plate of the motor you are calling your motor, brushless, and yet it runs straight off the battery. That don't make sense.

A brushless dc motor has 3 wires or 3 phases and a sensor. You have 2 wires so it is not a conventional brushless motor.

It strikes me as a starter motor and you removed the rotor winding and brushes. When you removed the rotor windings was it like the alternator winding? This will help us to determine what motor you have without a name plate.

If it runs already on 24vdc off a battery you can pulse it with almost any high efficiency scooter pwm but that won't make it OU. You might gain 10%. What you are looking for is the magic of entropy with a weighted flywheel gaining momentum from earths rotational energy.

There is a place you can get where you collect extra inertia. My best understanding is that you get the weighted wheel moving and it takes 1X input but then upon taking energy out you get 3X or 2X output. Is this what your device is trying to do?

If you are trying to build a flywheel motor / generator that puts out more than it takes to run it let me know.