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  • BroMikey
    replied
    Originally posted by Turion View Post
    You have to remember that the beginning of the coil on the left side of the rotor is up against a N magnet while the beginning of the coil on the right side of the rotor is up against a S magnet. So you do not want to hook the beginning of those two coils together. so is the way I have it connected really a series connection or is it a parallel connection? The 2 N’s are connected and the two S’s are connected together. I just know it is what works.
    An honest question, the answer is easy Mr Dave. If the voltage is 150 per coil and you add them in parallel you still have 150 volts. Which brings me to a simple wall adapter. A switching supply excepts 100v-250vac and steps it down to 36vdc. The diode bridge must be replaced with fast or ultra fast. All you need is a soldering iron However some allow a DC input and AC input. Most companies you call want China to do everything for them and sell it to you marked up. There are a lot of lazy people now a days.

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  • alexelectric
    replied
    Mikey is right. Each coil internally has a series and parallel connection, it is correct, but the two terminals or final connection of the coil has an input and an output, that input and output are connected in series with another coil, (the input and output terminals)

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  • BroMikey
    replied
    Originally posted by alexelectric View Post
    Understood, Mr. Dave has always commented connection in pairs, 6 pairs are 12 coils, 5 pairs 10, series connection, and the connection is the output of one way connected to the input of the other, so the connection must be for that of the sum of each one 150v + 150 = 300v
    Originally posted by Turion View Post

    bro,
    ,,,,, I have six coil pair. On my new machine I have five pair. The end of one coil is connected to the beginning of the other.

    Thank you gentlemen and those those of you joining us today here is the

    SERIES COIL PACK's data
    As follows

    Starting RPM was 3460
    Light #1 - 3440. 20 RPM drop
    Light #2 - 3410. 30 RPM drop
    Light #3 - 3359. 51 RPM drop
    Light #4 - 3297. 62 RPM drop
    Light #5 - 3120. 77 RPM drop

    Note
    each coil has possible series parallel connection internally and not to be confused with this connection path of COIL PACK's DATA
    Last edited by BroMikey; 12-15-2020, 01:01 AM.

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  • Turion
    replied
    I also wanted to point out something about the data I posted from Greyland in case you didn’t notice

    Starting RPM was 3460
    Light #1 - 3440. 20 RPM drop
    Light #2 - 3410. 30 RPM drop
    Light #3 - 3359. 51 RPM drop
    Light #4 - 3297. 62 RPM drop
    Light #5 - 3120. 77 RPM drop

    Although the loads are equal the effect on the motor is NOT. Hope that adds to your understanding of why this stuff is so important.

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  • Turion
    replied
    You have to remember that the beginning of the coil on the left side of the rotor is up against a N magnet while the beginning of the coil on the right side of the rotor is up against a S magnet. So you do not want to hook the beginning of those two coils together. so is the way I have it connected really a series connection or is it a parallel connection? The 2 N’s are connected and the two S’s are connected together. I just know it is what works.
    Last edited by Turion; 12-14-2020, 09:02 PM.

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  • alexelectric
    replied
    And the series connection is why, so the coil, due to its greater inductance, prevents the rotor from decreasing its rpm, maintaining its speed, or accelerating, but the important thing is that it does not stop the broken one, when the load is connected, as well as in the examples of videos that he has shown us

    It has been commented many times by Mr. Dave this inductance, delays the current, which allows it to be applied to the load when the coil is already in output with respect to the inductor magnet, so the rotor does not brake, or acceleration may occur, and it is best not to accelerate and not slow down,
    Last edited by alexelectric; 12-14-2020, 07:54 PM.

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  • alexelectric
    replied
    Understood, Mr. Dave has always commented connection in pairs, 6 pairs are 12 coils, 5 pairs 10, series connection, and the connection is the output of one way connected to the input of the other, so the connection must be for that of the sum of each one 150v + 150 = 300v what more or less gives with the data that Mr. Dave has shown us.

    I hope that I get the charger and continue with the replica of Mr. Dave's Generator, and I can contribute to this important proposal from Mr. Dave.

    Many of us are waiting for the data and results that Mr. Dave provides, but only about 3 or 4 people have his project, and he has requested that more people investigate and build, that they dare to investigate, and thus have more people providing data and results, and thus improve this important project, my admiration for the effort and dedication always by mr. Dave, how many challenges are you still solving in your project?

    Leave a comment:


  • Turion
    replied
    Netica,
    From what I have read in the past I don’t think you can. I think at high voltage you need to use a resistor and then measure voltage drop across the resistor. I would Google “measuring amperage at high voltage”.
    There are folks here who know way more than me so maybe one of them will speak up.

    bro,
    I’ve said many times that the coil on each side of the rotor forms a coil pair. So on my big machine I have six coil pair. On my new machine I have five pair. The end of one coil is connected to the beginning of the other.

    Leave a comment:


  • Netica
    replied
    Hello people,
    Sorry for butting in on this thread, this is off topic but not sure where to get help.
    I am wondering if anyone can help here.
    Problem
    I have a normal panel amp meter 0-5amp and want to use it to measure amperage, but the voltage is around 3 to 4 thousand volts.
    How should I hook it up?
    Do I just pass the positive through it like a normal hook up and make sure the meter is well isolated, or is there another way of doing it.
    Any advise would be greatly appreciated.

    Leave a comment:


  • BroMikey
    replied
    Originally posted by Turion View Post

    Yesterday's readings:
    Coil 1 - 293.8 volts
    Coil 2 - 308.2 volts
    Coil 3 - 317.4 volts
    Coil 4 - 335 volts
    Coil 5 - 313.4 volts
    Coil 6 - 315.2 volts
    Kind of confusing. 6 coils? Or 12 coils? or 6 coil packs? Which is it, plz be more clear, this is critical when choosing the proper electronics.

    It would seem that you have 12 coils and these readings are 2 coils put in series.

    Converters can be ganged up, switching supplies modified. But then again I am not sure now. I thought you had 12 individual coils but the data says you have 6.

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  • Turion
    replied
    Another issue reared its ugly head today, but I came up with a fix that will work. The epoxy I used to cement the magnets to the plates on the end of the adjustment screws didn't hold up under stress. It doesn't stick well to the magnets. So, I am going to use ten magnets that are 3/4 diameter by 1/8 thick. They have a tapered hole in the middle. I will put a bolt through that hole with a head on it that fits in the recess. Then the 3/4 by 3/4 magnet can stick to the bolt head and the other magnet. On the other side of the new magnet I will put a nut to hold the magnet in place secured with lock tight. The bolt will thread right through the holes in the machine as already designed, and I won't have to worry about epoxy letting go under heat. Where it sticks out of the coil holder on the other side I will put a nut and an acorn nut secured with lock tight. A nut driver will allow me to screw the adjustment magnet in and out. So now I'm waiting for the magnets to arrive.

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  • alexelectric
    replied
    Well Sir Dave, there are things to solve, and that is very interesting, keep trying and configuring various options, and say you are right, more magnets in the generator should work at lower revolutions, but you have to try it with these multi-wire coils, now These coils are very sensitive to rpm and load.



    And then the magnetic neutralization, which is a wonderful idea, but in my opinion there is a lot of pole-to-pole shock tension, I think that's what makes the generator the most unadjusted due to the effort generated.


    In the replica that I built of your generator, I am interested in seeing the acceleration of the generator, as soon as I achieve it, I want to try other air-core coils, with double magnet, as they build wind turbines, so it would not occupy the neutralizing magnets.

    Another idea would be to switch some repulsor coils, many variants of its generator can be made, it requires time and a lot of patience
    Last edited by alexelectric; 12-13-2020, 09:04 PM.

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  • Turion
    replied
    2800 RPM was with six magnets on the rotor. We have 12 now. 2800 RPM was with 3 strands on the coils each 1000 feet long. We have 12 now, wound in parallel and with groups of four connected in series. THIS version of the generator has never run long enough to get the data I need. It has always run for 10 minutes and something goes wrong and I have to haul it back to Greyland’s shop to be fixed. That’s why I finally just LEFT it there. It wasn’t doing me any good when it didn’t run for any length of time. And he has had it for more than a YEAR trying to fix every little problem. It FINALLY seems to be running consistently, but I’m not holding my breath. We may find out that 2200, 2000, or even 1800 is the correct ROM for this machine. I don’t know.

    I DO know what these coils will put out at MINIMUM because I used the same ones on a previous machine but with FEWER magnets. I DO know the input will be lower than I have claimed because 2800 is too high, and that means input voltage is too high. With the DC motor at 36 volts they were getting comparable RPM to what this AC motor is producing. The output will be way less than what it is NOW at a lower RPM. I expect it to be at LEAST what I claimed since we doubled the magnets, even though it might run slower. We will see. I sent them the info on the power supply and the motor controller Thanks for that. I think I have 3 or 4 of those power supplies, But I am going to order that motor controller TODAY to use with Black Beauty.

    And speaking of Black Beauty. I will be putting the adjustment magnets back in today and reshooting that video to reflect the changes. I used high temp epoxy so I hope it holds up. I’m also going to work on the mounts to hold coils in place and keep them from spinning. Can’t have THAT!

    Wont weld collar on shaft until pulleys get here and I make sure everything fits.

    As to that DC to DC converter... I have written to several companies. The input amperage is always less than 1 amp on the ones I have found. I need at least 1.5 amps, and 2 amps would be better just to be safe. I COULD rewind the coils with one long strand and have an increase in the voltage and a decrease in the amperage, but if I lose Amps on the Conversion to lower voltage DC, it doesn't do me any good. I am NOT going to try to get everything working with this to have a totally functioning machine that is a self runner and all that. If I CAN, and it is relatively simple, I will give it a shot, but my main focus is just to PROVE way more output than input and that "Neutral" coils and magnetic neutralization do what I said they do. I can do that by running it from the wall on a kilowatt meter and lighting up a bunch of 300 watt bulbs where voltage and amperage output can be measured. That's good enough for me. Let an electrical engineer take it from there. I have an old friend who is an electrical engineer and specializes in power systems management. He designed the longest operating DC system in the state of CA. By longest I mean in distance. So he knows a thing or two. a guy like him could solve all these problems in his SLEEP once he sees it running and I can prove the concepts. That's my goal.
    Last edited by Turion; 12-13-2020, 06:40 PM.

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  • BroMikey
    replied
    Here is an example of a STEP-DOWN Converter. 200-400vdc input ($25) This one may not be your voltage so you may have to do a search to find what you need but they are available.

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/Lambda-Powe...EAAOSwlRVfvTrs

    s-l1600.jpg

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  • alexelectric
    replied
    And as Mike says, put the speed control to the 36 volt motor, put the charger or power supply, test the generator at 2800 rpm, at these revolutions the coils proposed by Mr Dave work.

    Maybe the coils can work at a lower speed, or more, but the tests that Mr. Dave always showed us was at 2800 rpm, and you have to have a speed control, otherwise you cannot find the optimal operating speed generator
    After it works by accelerating the generator or not by accelerating, you can proceed to change the motor, AC but with speed control, when I did not have the speed control I could not control the generator.


    The data that Mr. Dave is showing us, shows that the coils are not working properly, they do not accelerate or at least they should not slow down the motor, they are not at its optimal operating speed that Mr. Dave has repeated so many times. 2800 rpm.


    I have a speed control like the one Mike showed in the link, it allows me to control the 36 volt motor.

    From the 36 volt source and charger I am going to buy the 1000 watt one, so I can use it to charge the 36 volt batteries, while I work operating the generator.

    When one does not have the correct accessories to work, one does not advance correctly.

    for example, I was working with an AC motor, and it only gave me 1700 rpm, I did not have a speed regulator, in those conditions I did not advance.

    Last edited by alexelectric; 12-13-2020, 11:08 AM.

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