Motor Generators

[Rakarskiy]

You are correct, my mistake.I did figure it out but was gone all day. However small tho he is getting a low lenz effect at higher rpm. His motor is a 1.1kw but he is getting 2.5kw to his motor. Makes no sense

His page on the German resource.
https://gehtanders.de/magnetfeld-und...fluxgenerator/

The guy's quote:
"How does the Low Lenz flow generator work? Low Lenz Fluxgenerator Statically positioned neodymium magnets and static coils, a rotating iron disk with holes between the magnet and the coil. The magnetic flux penetrates the coils whenever a window appears in the disk, and is cut off when the iron slides between the magnet and the coil. This gives you an oscillating magnetic field that excites the coils. This uses the property of the magnetic field to be able to move metal with very little resistance in the magnetic field.In this way, you are coping with the usual steering effect, which slows down on conventional generators with a power effect. You can easily rotate the axis with iron discs with two fingers of your hand. This does not work with conventional generators or electric motors."

His quote is
"Neodymium and iron. It is very interesting to observe that you can generate alternating current from 210 to 240 volts, and the drive motor rotates measurably faster and pulls less input energy as soon as you put on the load and consume the generated electricity. In this case, in the video, these are lamps. The exit was reinforced with thick iron plates mounted on the left and right next to the magnets.It seems that with the help of iron plates, it is possible to physically drag the scattering magnetic field of neodymium magnets inside to the center of the generator and thereby significantly compact the field. The difference with and without iron plates is really huge."

I don't think the guy wanted to openly demonstrate over unity. For those who are in the topic and so everything is clear

I have a Russian-language article on technology: https://rakarskiy.livejournal.com/14495.html

[BroMikey]

Yes but in the past in general all your video's show a light board with a switch you throw from open circuit to closed circuit where the open circuit voltage is 40vac higher than when it is loaded. Then the light bulb burns out. Next a new bulb replaces the old burned out one and the switch is thrown. Your regulator will smoke.

These new coils may seem lower voltage to you at1100hz? The first box ran at 230hz Now you will have more than 10 minute and you can fry everything electronic you own

[Turion]

Open circuit means the coil is c connected to NOTHING. (Except the AC meter I put across it. And I have no converter hooked to the coils....yet. If and when I get the coils to light up the lights, I will worry about connecting to a converter and trying to loop the system. Gotta crawl before I can walk.

[BroMikey]

Another one of those videos Bromey. Same thing as Thane. 277W in, 175W out... btw. I actually understand and can read German as well. So the guy is not claiming overunity or more out than in.

You are correct, my mistake.I did figure it out but was gone all day. However small tho he is getting a low lenz effect at higher rpm. His motor is a 1.1kw but he is getting 2.5kw to his motor. Makes no sense

[pmgriphone]

Here is another low lenz free generator, a big one with many rotors powering 1000's of watts

Small input large output same as what we are doing

Another one of those videos Bromey. Same thing as Thane. 277W in, 175W out... btw. I actually understand and can read German as well. So the guy is not claiming overunity or more out than in.

[BroMikey]

The boys showed up today..... and got all the cores on the coils cut back.

Tested each one and there was no dragging on the rotor.

.......there's a Warriors game tomorrow evening.

With all of that, I have what I need to attempt to loop the setup. We will see.

You got a team that is outstanding who show up and fill the tall orders. They had to lay down their lives for a friend in need. They are the greatest.

Anyway Dave back the converter hooking marry-go-round. Do not EVER let your generator coils run open circuit, always cut off peaks by keeping a 25w bulb across the terminal that switch on the converter. Unless you want to shatter the SCR at 1100hz. I wonder if it will except 1100hz?

These are only for 60hz, that is why I stay away from regulators in the case of 1100hz. Rectify it first. These circuit are made to protect the trigger leg and still keeping it toggling at a high freq. by changing the 60hz to 1100hz may burn it out. Everybody else is controlling 60hz, not you.

EBAY tells you more about how to use this device and tells you the freq of AC voltage to be used

"Use method:
The voltage regulator can be used in the circuit in series, and the voltage regulator can be connected to the lamp and electric appliance in series (that is, either the lamp or electric appliance can be disconnected from the fire line or line, which can be connected to the terminal of the "product"). Simple and convenient operation."

https://www.ebay.com/itm/124594623435

[Turion]

The boys showed up today after I got back from Sacramento for my doctor appointment, and got all the cores on the coils cut back. Tested each one and there was no dragging on the rotor. So tomorrow morning I should be able to get two coils put in and run some tests to determine "neutral" speed. I should also be able to measure output on one coil pair at that speed. But that will probably be it for the day. I have a couple errands to run in town, have a doctors appointment to have the splint put on my hand, and then have to pick up groceries on the way home. So most of the day is shot. Besides, there's a Warriors game tomorrow evening. But Wednesday I start putting coils in the machine and adjusting the magnets. By this weekend I should be done. If the amp draw is too great adding coils, I may have to look for a different AC source than the Variac, but I have that covered. I got an AC motor controller that will handle 120 volts from the wall at high amps to the bridge the DC motor is connected to.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07T4793JW...roduct_details

I ordered a second one that can be connected to the output of coils in parallel, and run through the same large bridge rectifier to power the DC drive motor. I also got a switch to choose between wall power and coil power for the supply to the bridge and the DC motor attached to it. With all of that, I have what I need to attempt to loop the setup. We will see.

Just for fun I went down and stuck two coils in the machine and connected them up to my light board setup, which is a 300 watt bulb, an amp meter and a volt meter for each coil pair. I tested the setup previously by connecting wall power to the same place I connected them to the coil just now. Everything worked great on wall power.

The machine got up to 2800 RPM, and I flipped the switch, expecting to see the light "light up" and the motor either speed up or slow down. The light did NOT light up, and there was no visible effect on the motor. I didn't notice the RPM's on the meter. I was too distracted by the fact that the light didn't even come on. I disconnected the coil from the load, and it measured 150 volts open voltage across one coil, but open voltage does me no good. I need to see output under load. So I just shut it down. Apparently this is not going to be anywhere as easy as I had hoped. So tomorrow I will first, check the bulb again, then bypass everything but the bulb to see if it comes on directly connected to the coil pair. If I have success lighting it, I will add the volt meter across it. Then add the amp meter in line. Then add the off and on switch. Try to figure out where the problem is. It could simply be the wires coming from the coils. Have to start somewhere.

[BroMikey]

[BroMikey]

Here is another low lenz free generator, a big one with many rotors powering 1000's of watts

Small input large output same as what we are doing

[BroMikey]

Dudes a new design showing speed up under load after the minimum rpm is reached. using a 50w light bulb

[BroMikey]

Bye should be happy now with all those meters

Also 340 watts probably won't climb up much with the coils

A hand ground core facing does not qualify. Regular motors ar 5-10,000ths

You are taking a precision box with a wide variance of clearance maybe 60 -80,000ths? I guess use a sliver of old plastic as a gauge? A round string is best but mic it first, say a weed whip string? Do whatever

EDIT that box should be tighter than the all thread box so try 40,000ths and see if the bearing have to much play and drag. At 40,000ths output may double.

Use a plastic feeler gauge, ask the auto parts store, mark each coil for each hole

[Turion]

97 volts DC at 3.5 amps DC.
Not buying anymore meters.
I don't need to be that accurate. Either this thing does what I say it does, or it doesn't. If it DOES, I should be able to loop it and that will shut everyone up. If it DOESN'T, it's time for me to shut up. The independent lab will give me accurate measurements. I just need ballpark inputs and outputs.
Meters.jpeg

[BroMikey]

Fluke meters made in chino, high dollar what a $10 meter won't do.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/31382815293...gAAOSw2fZh3PG0

[BroMikey]

Take a gander at how preddy a New Simpson looks. These are highly accurate devices not + or - 10% These are 1% backyard inventors should buy from chino till they are able to keep the meter. Good equipment lasts 50 years and cost real money to have. $300 and up for a multi meter.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/20322311935...EAAOSwpNxf3PTW

[BroMikey]

In the video it showed 70 volts output of the Variac to get the required RPM, but on my DC meter across the motor it shows 97 volts. And it is drawing 3.5 amps

3.5amps of DC current or is that 3.5Amps of AC current? If it is 3.5amps of DC current that is 97V-DC X 3.5A-DC = 340WATTS of Power

70x3.5=245w 70 on the variac? what about the meter? ya know an AC meter? You do have one right? Also the 2300watt motor needs more power than a 1000watt motor free-wheelings. You could lose 300watts right there AND another 10% on belt drag, then coil amps may drop 10%. Who knows you might break even with all of these loses This one is for DC onlyif it pins the needle on start up, it is toast.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/40127465820...EAAOSwOgdYns39

I like these better as they do not take much away from the circuit

https://www.ebay.com/itm/18389829914...YAAOSwKOJYK8Wt

I like these for AC volts, they are easy to see

https://www.ebay.com/itm/40161509160...MAAOSwtbxbvjbW