Motor Generators

[BroMikey]

BLMMickeyMouse, what happened to the Thane Heins videos you posted?

You have a wife? Not sure how she can deal with all of your you know what!

Thane pulled them off and put up a single video. Don;t know why. My wife is a lover

[pmgriphone]

Good to hear from you. My wife asked me when I am going to see any lectric from it.

BLMMickeyMouse, what happened to the Thane Heins videos you posted?

You have a wife? Not sure how she can deal with all of your you know what!

[BroMikey]

They should all be done by next Tuesday. If nothing rubs, and I don’t end up needing spacers, I will be trying to loop the machine this weekend. Should be fun. I can’t wait to show my wife.

Very few people give you the consideration like our wives do. It shouldn't be that way but because men are selfish and impatient they often respond in a negative way. You know me even tho I heard a box rubbing I knew you were on it so I didn't say anything. It is important that a box not rub as it may turn into an imbalance.

Good to hear from you. My wife asked me when I am going to see any lectric from it.

[Turion]

Have been having some trouble getting my NEW generator put together, even though my buddy who built it has his up and running. He has the advantage of having all his pieces right there to assemble. I am trying to Nate new pieces with existing pieces and it has been a lot of “cut and fit.” Got MOST of it figured out and should have it completely together by Friday afternoon. So will be doing some testing to make sure nothing is rubbing. I’m all out of the spacers I need and a three hour round trip to Sacramento to buy two spacers ain’t gonna happen. My friends there are looking for some, so that will help. I also got an update on the coils. They should all be done by next Tuesday. If nothing rubs, and I don’t end up needing spacers, I will be trying to loop the machine this weekend. Should be fun. I can’t wait to show my wife.

[BroMikey]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SsXm1CQVw18

[BroMikey]

[BroMikey]

It ran fine on a "puny standard". But I have the biggest, baddest bridge around still in a box if I need it.

well that's good to know, always better to be safe than fudge data. I saw a guy on youtube using a laser heat tester finding a bridge rectifier to be over heating. When I tested one at 3000hz beast oscillator it was only warm so I went to fast diodes and increased the amount over 70% better

At hf, diodes will act as resistors, somewhat, if they are Lf 60hz type but you are only at 560hz so probably did well. Continue to monitor that part can begin breaking down anytime as runtime progresses. It is like chipping away at a stone/crystal that eventually fails, of course seemingly random when are not looking.

I have been informed a regular bridge is rated 1000hz max, you want to be well below that number for the long haul.

At 1120hz 24 magnet it might be kind of nice to collect 50% more on what looks like an insignificant choice.

[Turion]

It ran fine on a "puny standard". But I have the biggest, baddest bridge around still in a box if I need it.

[BroMikey]

Today he will rectify the AC output of those two test coils and run it to the 120 volt DC motor I gave him. That will eliminate the issues you were talking about and give me the data I need to think about looping this. We ran this same motor this way before, just to show somebody it could be done, so we know it will run. Just don’t know what the voltage or amp input was or the RPM. All critical pieces of info.

Better have a big bad azz fast bridge or it will smoke a puny standard

[Turion]

Today he will rectify the AC output of those two test coils and run it to the 120 volt DC motor I gave him. That will eliminate the issues you were talking about and give me the data I need to think about looping this. We ran this same motor this way before, just to show somebody it could be done, so we know it will run. Just don’t know what the voltage or amp input was or the RPM. All critical pieces of info.

[BroMikey]

Thanks for making a special post covering the new data, i still think freq changes everything and we are being short changed on output. Those filaments may fool us at certain hz values. the meters are for 60hz AC

The bulbs may get extremely hot at 77v just like a 400hz aircraft system running at 26v. to bad you don't have any 400hz bulbs to work with.

20-80 nickel iron rod or wire might be better instead of 50/50 or only 20% nickel and 80% iron

[Turion]

288 V is the OPEN VOLTAGE with no load attached. If you watch the video closely, he measures the voltage BEFORE the light is turned on. Then turns on the light. Then turns it off and measures voltage again. When that was noticed, I asked him specifically to measure the voltage on the coil pair with the load attached.
The lights didn't go up full bright. That was the first thing I noticed. They may have looked like it to you in the video, but not to me. I KNOW how bright those 300 watt lights get when they are getting 300 watts. I've been using them for YEARS. And my first question to him was about the lack of brightness of the lights.

The one video where he shows the pair of coils pegging the volt meter at past 300 volts is with two of the GOOD, matched coils, and I actually have NO IDEA how much open voltage or voltage under load a matched pair of the good coils put out. We didn't realize there was a problem with the data until I had already taken them home to put in the machine I am building. So then he tested two of the unmatched coils (one six strand and one 12 strand) and they put out 288-290 open voltage and 77 volts under load at 2.3 amps. Same core material, just different wiring configurations. Both coils have 3,000 feet of wire, just different numbers of strands connected differently and both have three wires coming off the coil.

I think I can get around 100 volts under load with the new coils on a 12 magnet rotor, and hopefully twice that much with a 24 magnet rotor. If I can, the machine will match the 1800-2000 watts of the Old Clunker machine. But I won't know until it is up and running. I may have it back together tomorrow. The bolts that hold the rotor to the flange stick out too far ( and rub) and I need to get some shorter ones. I will do that tomorrow. That is the only thing holding me up from having it all put back together. Four bolts the right length. To try and loop it that is. To get total output of the machine may be a few more days before the coils are all done

[BroMikey]

Yes, that coil data was wrong.

with iron cores you can get 120 volts at 1.5 amps per coil.
But run it over 30 minutes and it heats up too much.

With these new coils heat is not an issue. But he is only getting 77 volts at 1.3 amps out of a coil PAIR. Now that is with a 12 magnet rotor and not a 24 like the new machine. It is also with mismatched coils, so the numbers could be much different.

yes I heard you say that the first time. What I want to know is the guy in the video showing 288v. How do both analog and digital meter read 288v and then be 77v also. I saw the bulbs light up full bright. Is that a diff core?

[BroMikey]

Also a box with 12 magnets on the rotor running at 2800rpm is going to have a lower RMS waveform average than a 24 magnet box

12 x 2800 divide 60 = 560 hz

24 x 2800 divide 60 = 1120 hz

Your nichrome filaments are not designed for 100hz-1000hz inside the light bulbs. You will have no idea of the kind of power that machine can produce until you use a load that is properly matched to the output. You may need three bulbs in series.

[Turion]

Yes, that coil data was wrong.

with iron cores you can get 120 volts at 1.5 amps per coil.
But run it over 30 minutes and it heats up too much.

With these new coils heat is not an issue. But he is only getting 77 volts at 1.3 amps out of a coil PAIR. Now that is with a 12 magnet rotor and not a 24 like the new machine. It is also with mismatched coils, so the numbers could be much different.