Bedini Earth Light

[plengo]

I was able to capture some of that effect of: below trigger voltage level of the oscillator and right after it triggers the oscillator while the cell restores itself to higher voltage.

Oscillator seems to be not only driving the voltage of the cell but also maintaining its minimum necessary momentum. It is almost as if my oscillator is not good enough to play with the cell correctly.

I would speculate that a more sophisticated oscillator can indeed make a huge difference in performance of the whole cell.

http://youtu.be/VW5tinsRiVQ

Fausto.

[Freezer]

John and Chuck reveals an unusual extended run time
which has no other explanation other than successful build.
Update On Lead Zinc Alum Cells - YouTube

The point of entry is possibly on the battery plates somewhere.
A careful thermal study will find the cool spot. There is more to follow.

urgently needs replication, discussion, mix, materials,
pdf, photos ect.

Great job John and Chuck !!!

I built a crude version of this cell today, I only had a galvanized plate, and a lead plate from an old lab. Used 50%alum/50% sodium carbonate, although I think I made it too thick. Still forming it, but seems to have some good current.

http://imageshack.us/a/img255/9530/lzc1.jpg

[John_Bedini]

Marcus Reid Cells

They run at 1.2 volts at 2 Ma to run the led he needs two cells unless you use the oscillator.

To All & John B

Does any body know the power levels his cell has

John I have read from you, that you had did some tests on this cell, can you tell us volts and amps?

Thanks

Best of luck

[mikrovolt]

No other explanation very possibly means paydirt

John and Chuck reveals an unusual extended run time
which has no other explanation other than successful build.
Update On Lead Zinc Alum Cells - YouTube

The point of entry is possibly on the battery plates somewhere.
A careful thermal study will find the cool spot. There is more to follow.

urgently needs replication, discussion, mix, materials,
pdf, photos ect.

Great job John and Chuck !!!

[Allwest]

Markus Reid cell

To All & John B

Does any body know the power levels his cell has

John I have read from you, that you had did some tests on this cell, can you tell us volts and amps?

Thanks

Best of luck

[CrystalDipoleMatrix]

Remember the thing that Markus reid said about the crystal cells output power?? Initially, the power output goes down for couple days then, it stabilise. From this morning, the pulse motor is steady tonight and the oscillator too. Good news! But again, it's maybe all galvanic action....Will see in the long run...I will report what's going on in a couple days.

[CrystalDipoleMatrix]

Hello everybody, this morning the pulse motor is slowing down and the oscillator too. It needs water for current as we know it. I will keeps things going to see when it will stop producing power before adding little bit of water. See you later..

[CrystalDipoleMatrix]

WoW!!! Such a little change in the mix but what a change in results!!! I cooked it (the cells) in the oven at about 80 celcius for an hour. The trick is to mix with a spoon a little bit of sodium silicate with 50/50 alum, epson salts to liquid consistancy. At first, the feeling of sodium silicate on the fingers have a tendency to be ''oily''. After mixing, you don't want this feeling anymore. Then, take a piece of cotton towel and pour it into this liquid. It's the separator between the mag and the treated copper. I first connected an oscillator to it and the led was barely bright at first but for no reason the light intensity kept on increasing and now it's very bright! I made the test on a 10 ohms resistor to see the current reading. At first, current of about 2 ma but soon after it bounces to 16 ma in a minute or so and stayed there. Just after I disconnected the resistor, the voltage jumped back up to 1.55 volts. I have a cell now with a copper penny that shows 1.87 volts on the meter. What tha ####?? The best that I could find is about 1.45 volts with a newly formed alum cell. And no! My battery in my meter is not depleted. It's fully charged, I charged it yesterday. I checked one of my cells (the one with the copper penny) for possible signs of corrosion or humid spots and....Nop! Just dryness and white powdery stuff! Thanks again Fausto!! Very impress on that one! What a change in 36 hours can make!!

[CrystalDipoleMatrix]

I feel your frustration. I have cells older than one year still running the LEDs. Funny some LEDs get their terminals corroded faster than the cell inside itself.

Just Alum is not all you need to get it not corroding the Mg. You will have to figure out how to stop the Alum from corroding the Mg at a substantial level.

Think like how to stop the "acid" action of a Sulfuric Acid (H2SO4) so that it would not corrode a metal? Alum is just an means for locking "whatever you want" (like SO4 or water or 'corrosive elements to the metal in play') and on top of that Alum is conductive to "electricity" (in this case ions).

So you got your cell at half way correct you just added too much of the ingredients that improved corrosion process.

Cook out Alum will be water deficient and in a structure that is very crystaline (very, very hard) and incapable of absorbing water therefore you will have excess water in your cell which will eat up your Mg.

I have figure out a way to create Alum in a mix that makes it not crystaline neither watery.

Try a mix of Alum with a little bit of Sodium Silicate and add a bit of something that will help it to be consistent in form (may borax or epson salts - my favorite - and so on). This new mix of Alum in your exact same cell will have a much longer lasting time. You can see if for yourself.

Fausto.

Thank you very much Fausto. Will do that and see what it does. I have the sodium silicate and the epson salts.

[plengo]

Okay some bad news for you guys...I decided to check my pulse motor cell for corrosion and the mag is eating like crazy! I thought It will be corrosion free because I melted the alum once to make this cell but...Guess what? The ''crystaline structure'' of alum seems to let free water and it keeps on corroding the mag with no water added since it's creation 2 weeks ago. I'm very dissapointed...I see dark chunks of magnesium in the bottom of the corroded rod and it seems to be protected. Maybe this dark coating was the part of a diode configuration but the rest was corroding anyway.. Don't know what to think about all of this..

I feel your frustration. I have cells older than one year still running the LEDs. Funny some LEDs get their terminals corroded faster than the cell inside itself.

Just Alum is not all you need to get it not corroding the Mg. You will have to figure out how to stop the Alum from corroding the Mg at a substantial level.

Think like how to stop the "acid" action of a Sulfuric Acid (H2SO4) so that it would not corrode a metal? Alum is just an means for locking "whatever you want" (like SO4 or water or 'corrosive elements to the metal in play') and on top of that Alum is conductive to "electricity" (in this case ions).

So you got your cell at half way correct you just added too much of the ingredients that improved corrosion process.

Cook out Alum will be water deficient and in a structure that is very crystaline (very, very hard) and incapable of absorbing water therefore you will have excess water in your cell which will eat up your Mg.

I have figure out a way to create Alum in a mix that makes it not crystaline neither watery.

Try a mix of Alum with a little bit of Sodium Silicate and add a bit of something that will help it to be consistent in form (may borax or epson salts - my favorite - and so on). This new mix of Alum in your exact same cell will have a much longer lasting time. You can see if for yourself.

Fausto.

[Allwest]

who wants an energy source that can tap the vacuum? crystal batts to power and SG that never has to be shut down? why not backpop the primary seeing as how these crystal batts charge sooo fast!!

Tom C

Tom C,

Are talking about zero point energy?

Best of luck

[CrystalDipoleMatrix]

Okay some bad news for you guys...I decided to check my pulse motor cell for corrosion and the mag is eating like crazy! I thought It will be corrosion free because I melted the alum once to make this cell but...Guess what? The ''crystaline structure'' of alum seems to let free water and it keeps on corroding the mag with no water added since it's creation 2 weeks ago. I'm very dissapointed...I see dark chunks of magnesium in the bottom of the corroded rod and it seems to be protected. Maybe this dark coating was the part of a diode configuration but the rest was corroding anyway.. Don't know what to think about all of this..

[DadHav]

DadHav,
Your right it is not that easy and it is a balancing act with this battery chemistry. This battery is almost like a monkey on type rope. Yes It's a fine line with the balance and impedance also. I'm running another test but I keep making mistakes for some reason today. I just gave up and have gone home. I can only tell you what I did with it. I only came back to converting lead batteries because of lidmotor with the solder video. If you just do it without forming the impedance is too high my B&K says one thing and the calculations on the internet say something else. Like 1 to 5 ohms, but that depends on the load, I would want to see .023 Ohms. The trigger for the crystal mix I have seen it release water at about 10.50 volts in charge condition, the cell I made by hand. In the discharge condition it starts locking things up and the water level goes back down to 1/2 liquid state. I can not stand and watch when that happens it takes too long and it's midnight when I get going home. I can not see into the WallMart batteries or the car batteries. I do know what the chemical is when dried out, that is Zeolite Sodium Aluminum Silicate. The other thing is the standing voltage is too low for 12 volt circuits but not with what I'm doing with it, it's the only reason I'm even messing with it. I think after the battery is out of the charge condition this happens no matter what, very intriguing battery, good group project. Having these batteries around the shop for a very long time way before this discussion took place I can see that they last a very long time without problems, the problems of a Lead Acid Battery. With what you have put together for motors that run on super caps your models should run for years, can't ask for anything more that that. It's just trying to get people to understand how it works and why. When at flat zero voltage they will come back not like lead acid it just takes time and with batteries everything is in hours waiting.

John, Thanks for taking the time for that answer. There's no question about the the hobby value of these experiments. Even if you don't get it quite right you still have a great experience with doing something out of the ordinary. I've drawn the little 1.3 ah battery down to where it should be dead. I used 100 ma of incandescent. I matched the 1.3 ah on the discharge cycle then let the battery rest. I've been running the stator motor for about 6 hours now with the battery. I'm running at about 25 ma with the SSG and extra power coil and FWBR back to the battery. Without the feedback I looses voltage. The voltage is hovering around 6 volts and holding for now but I think it will drop. I'll see if I can find a point and tuning match down in that low voltage range that will sustain rotation to some point where it's really noteworthy. My clear case motor cycle battery came down to about 12.1 volts after charge but it was still going down a little. I put a 250 ma load on it for a few minutes to take the surface charge off and know my resting voltage is around 11.6. I hope to have something good to report with it. I will mention this though. I have two of the same 7 ah batteries. One is acid and the other alum. After they sit for a while I can tip them back and the acid battery releases about 5 times as much gas from the plates. One thing I never realized until getting the clear batteries is that they release more gas while sitting than you would ever think.
Yes John, You know I like the little desktop models. I'd like to finish part of the window motor project with the magnetically suspended rotor, a thick Plexi hand made battery, and mini full wave circuit with a small solar panel. Making a decision on what plates and mix would be best is a little hard to figure out for me right now. I think I need some more experimenting, or good advice.
Take care.
John Hav.

[plengo]

Another great video from Bedini is in youtube (Mixing Chemicals for Hydrate Cell 9 John Bedin &i Chuck Hupp - YouTube.

Today I noticed something interesting in my crystal mix. A certain remaining crystal cell mix was just sitting for days unattended at my lab when today I noticed it was finally crystallizing.

Upon revolving it with a plastic spoon it would not loose its crystalization neither the rate of crystalization. It was obvious in hours it would become hard like a rock.

I added a tinny little bit of distilled water and the whole thing collapsed into a marsh of water with crystals. It became really fast a liquid with good consistency and the tinny ball of crystals just sitting under the water. Not much water neither little. Just the right amount to convert the rigid crystalline structure into a liquid. No excess of water to be extracted neither it needed more to become more liquid.

In other words, more liquid state would only become like sediments in the bottom of a pool.

This crystal mix has a high rate of collapse of solid into liquid with water as a catalyst (and most probably - electric current too) as the trigger.



Since my last video (Crystal Cell 32 - YouTube) I started testing which point of input energy is enough to charge the cell and have the best output of power ratio possible (to my limits off course).

Fausto.

[John_Bedini]

DadHav,
Your right it is not that easy and it is a balancing act with this battery chemistry. This battery is almost like a monkey on type rope. Yes It's a fine line with the balance and impedance also. I'm running another test but I keep making mistakes for some reason today. I just gave up and have gone home. I can only tell you what I did with it. I only came back to converting lead batteries because of lidmotor with the solder video. If you just do it without forming the impedance is too high my B&K says one thing and the calculations on the internet say something else. Like 1 to 5 ohms, but that depends on the load, I would want to see .023 Ohms. The trigger for the crystal mix I have seen it release water at about 10.50 volts in charge condition, the cell I made by hand. In the discharge condition it starts locking things up and the water level goes back down to 1/2 liquid state. I can not stand and watch when that happens it takes too long and it's midnight when I get going home. I can not see into the WallMart batteries or the car batteries. I do know what the chemical is when dried out, that is Zeolite Sodium Aluminum Silicate. The other thing is the standing voltage is too low for 12 volt circuits but not with what I'm doing with it, it's the only reason I'm even messing with it. I think after the battery is out of the charge condition this happens no matter what, very intriguing battery, good group project. Having these batteries around the shop for a very long time way before this discussion took place I can see that they last a very long time without problems, the problems of a Lead Acid Battery. With what you have put together for motors that run on super caps your models should run for years, can't ask for anything more that that. It's just trying to get people to understand how it works and why. When at flat zero voltage they will come back not like lead acid it just takes time and with batteries everything is in hours waiting.