Bedini Earth Light

[vintasalo]

Hello IB. Did you happen to notice a difference in impedance with the cells you are talking about. I am running the famous Rusty LidMotor Pancake Oscillator with a small cell but get this. It won't run the oscillator unless there is a small capacitor across the the input. Any other cell doesn't need one. Anyway a small cell from a 4 inch strip of magnesium on a circuit board has a resting voltage of over 1.3 volts and has been running the oscillator for a day now at about .75-.76 volts. The voltage goes up and down slightly when the furnace goes on and changes the room temperature.
John Hav.

DadHav.. Have you tried putting this outside in the sun? It seems as though you could have a pielter effect as well. Roof shingles is all i can think of connected through a grid system to power a home. Ingenious Idea!! I thought of it first though!!

[vintasalo]

@Lid.. I looked at the muddwatt and its really cool that you can tap energy from living organisms. I noticed this when I put a copper pipe in the ground, clipped my positive side to a plant and saw a volt appear, but the power seems a bit low. What about just inserting this mud into a Car or ATV Battery? Since doing this you can get it into a multi-cell form.

@Plengo.. What if you took a new empty 12v Car battery or ATV battery and replaced the electrolyte with the contents of a crystal cell. Every chamber use a turkey baster and fill up with your mix. Even use IB Glue cell maybe?

I'm thinking about trying these idea's out myself Guys

[DadHav]

1. Yes I have used bigger electrodes. I have one cell I call my 5 foot cell and it powers my LCD clock. It is overkill for the clock. Here is the video...Update on 5 foot tall Dry Crystal cell - YouTube
2. Yes I have tried many combinations before such as using Alum, borax, baking soda, rubbing alcohol, detergent, garlic, cream of tartar, etc... but they all died off too. Only the crystal glue cell would stay alive with voltage.
3. The salt dissolve in the water that's in the glue. The glue itself only acts as something to bond the electrodes together and also to protect. The water dissolves the salts and the salts while in the water combine together and when the water evaporates away a new unknown salt is left behind that is conductive and it is what makes my cells work. I make other cells like my copper tube cells where I completely dissolve the salt sub and Epsom salt into hot water and I dunk paper in the water and wrap it around a copper pipe. I allow the paper to dry on the pipe for a day or two and then I add the magnesium ribbon around the dry paper, this is how the 5 foot tall crystal cell was made.
4. The data in the spread sheet here....https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/...k1DVF9WQ256T3c
that was posted was all done with copper and magnesium electrodes. Last year when I first made the cells I only used copper and aluminum as that was all I had at the time, since then I use copper and magnesium since it gives more voltage. The magnesium won't corrode if you avoid water.
5. The link for the spreadsheet was a no load, voltage only test. The idea is that a water battery voltage will go away as the water battery looses water. This was proven with the other glue cell but the crystal glue cell stayed alive above 1.3V. Yes I do run real load test on my cells. The problem is that they give low amps because they don't use water for their median. I have the 5 foot cell permantly running the LCD clock and I have my 6inch cell that is much like the 5 foot one in the way its made and it runs an analog amp meter. An analog amp meter is almost a short, its a motor that acts on a spring and I watch it to see what happens. I also chart its data and compare it to heat and humidity. Here is the link to the 6 inch cell data from it being hooked up to the analog amp meter.....https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/...Ux4UjA5Q0ZFSGc

I did this experiment last year around the same time and got the same results, here is that video.....Glue Crystal cell does not run on water - YouTube

Hello IB. Did you happen to notice a difference in impedance with the cells you are talking about. I am running the famous Rusty LidMotor Pancake Oscillator with a small cell but get this. It won't run the oscillator unless there is a small capacitor across the the input. Any other cell doesn't need one. Anyway a small cell from a 4 inch strip of magnesium on a circuit board has a resting voltage of over 1.3 volts and has been running the oscillator for a day now at about .75-.76 volts. The voltage goes up and down slightly when the furnace goes on and changes the room temperature.
John Hav.

[Lidmotor]

Microbial fuel cell build update

@All
I have been doing work on a simple homemade microbial fuel cell. I spent lots of time researching it. I tried building a small "Mudwatt" cell but I didn't like what I saw happening. Here is a super simple cell that I am going try just to see if I can get results:

Lime Jello, Yeast and Carbon Paper Fuel Cell

@ Allwest
Building a solar cell is something that I have wanted to do also but I didn't want to spend the time or money trying it. The Mudwatt got my interest because it is claimed to operate for decades (thats right DECADES!). It is a small amount of power but like my plant battery, there is a real advantage to having something that runs 24/7 year after year. Here is the video explaining the how the thing works:

MudWatt Microbial Fuel Cell - How It Works - YouTube

@Sawt2
I'm glad that you got your Penny circuit to work. There are many variations of the basic idea and it is a simple blocking oscillator in principle----something that has been around since the early vacuum tube days. The way that I configured the coils and the caps is somewhat unique. My use of dollar store "twist tie" steel wire for the coils made the "Penny" oscillator truly unique.

@Plengo
That guy does some good real world tests on the batteries. His goal is what most of us want----the best bang for the buck. I need to look into these commercially available lead/crystal batteries.

Lidmotor

[plengo]

Very interesting test.

Crystal Batteries versus Lead Acid battery for real world scenarios.

Lead Crystal vs Lead Acid Battery - Which is best for Solar Power? - YouTube



Fausto.

[Sawt2]

Lidmotor
It's been a while since you first introduced us to "penny". I went back and watched the how to video on penny (I have been wanting to make one for quite some time) I built one tonight just using alligator clips at first to make sure i got her to work, well, after mixing up a couple wires I finally got her work.
I used some copper wire coils that I had on hand and I am running it on my 6 cell Chemalloy battery, I have 3 sets of 2 cells parralleled together for a total of 1.25 volts no load. I have 3 LED's bright white running and it is using 15.5 watts according to my analog panel meter. The voltage drops to about .781 volt and just sits there, I'll leave it run for the night and see what happens.
I'll post some pics once I have it cleaned up and soldered together.
Thank you Lidmotor for sharing with us, It's a pretty cool and simple oscillator to build.
Thank you
Brian

[Allwest]

Constructing a Dye Sensitized Solar Cell

Here is some other things I was looking into, very simple to make

Constructing a Dye Sensitized Solar Cell - YouTube

Selfmade DIY Solar Cell - TiO2 Raspberry based Graetzel cell - YouTube

Best of luck

[Allwest]

Thanks for the link to the Microbial fuel cell. That opens up a whole new area that we have not really looked deeply into -----but somebody has!!


KeegoTech | MudWatt™ MFC Kit



Remember the "Plant batteries" that most of us made a few years back. Well my "Phyllis" is still going strong after two years and our little microbe friends might be a contributing factor. This "MudWatt" product led me to search Youtube for more info on the microbial fuel cell. It seems that they are not that hard to make. Our blinking LED blocking oscillators (my Penny is one design) should work very easily off this cell. At first I suspected a galvanic situation hiding in the cell somewhere but the more that I researched into it the more I was convinced that the little creatures really are "making" the juice flow. The use of a carbon element for both cathode and anode was convincing and then the fact that the cell takes days before the electrical energy shows up reinforced my conculsion that this IS NOT A GALVANIC CELL!

I started looking for where to get inexpensive parts to make a test cell. The mud we can find anywhere for free but has to have lots of microbes in it. The jar can be anything. The low watt blinking led circuit most of us already have. The hard part was the "carbon felt" for the electrodes. I found that at Lowes in a "BerrnzOmatic heat cloth". That is the expensive part and costs almost $20 with tax. I will keep looking and there might be a better way to do it. You need alot of electrode surface area for the microbes to grow on and that was the reason they chose the carbon felt. Not enough surface area and the power will be very small.

This is something that we can build. Here is the build instruction for the MudWatt. Just fill in your own parts and go for it.

How To Build Your MudWatt - YouTube

Cheers,

Lidmotor

PS---I found other videos on Youtube about making homemade Microbial fuel cells but extreme care needs to be taken not to introduce a dissimilar metal situation anywhere in the build. Even the electrode wires could do it and give a false positive. If you see a voltage right away then something is wrong. It should take a few days to see a voltage show up on the cell. If the power drops off over time ---that is another red flag. The power should remain as long as the microbes are happy and eating. I found the whole idea very facinating when it is working right. There are some good videos explaining the process.

Lid,

I was looking for something that gains power from the opposite of entropy

(Galvanic)

These microbes are definably in the realm, I personally do not think this type of technology-power has been explored with other things, such as growth from crystals

Please let me know if you find any other research on this type of power gain

Are you familiar with the movie Matrix and where the machines get their power source? Ha!

Best of luck and I think that is going to be the name of the next cell I create "Matrix power cell" sounds good?

[ibpointless2]

To All

IB, With your latest information, I decided to pull out an old dry crystal cell and test it from 4-5-12

test - YouTube

It now sits at 1.48 volts and 1.45 MA

Wow! the volts just keep going up, this cell is completely dry

When I put a load on this the amps go down, but then turn around and start climbing

If I add heat it has gone up to 100 MA from 1.45 MA

The heat clearly stimulates the amps up, I believe when a load is applied to this cell it also applies heat to the cell thereby the amps go up

Thermal electric thing going on

IB,

Just wondering if you applied heat to your cells, my bet would be that your amps will go up

Best of luck

Yes amps go up when heat is applied. The amps also go down when in the freezer. Voltage can be a different story.

[Allwest]

1. Yes I have used bigger electrodes. I have one cell I call my 5 foot cell and it powers my LCD clock. It is overkill for the clock. Here is the video...Update on 5 foot tall Dry Crystal cell - YouTube
2. Yes I have tried many combinations before such as using Alum, borax, baking soda, rubbing alcohol, detergent, garlic, cream of tartar, etc... but they all died off too. Only the crystal glue cell would stay alive with voltage.
3. The salt dissolve in the water that's in the glue. The glue itself only acts as something to bond the electrodes together and also to protect. The water dissolves the salts and the salts while in the water combine together and when the water evaporates away a new unknown salt is left behind that is conductive and it is what makes my cells work. I make other cells like my copper tube cells where I completely dissolve the salt sub and Epsom salt into hot water and I dunk paper in the water and wrap it around a copper pipe. I allow the paper to dry on the pipe for a day or two and then I add the magnesium ribbon around the dry paper, this is how the 5 foot tall crystal cell was made.
4. The data in the spread sheet here....https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/...k1DVF9WQ256T3c
that was posted was all done with copper and magnesium electrodes. Last year when I first made the cells I only used copper and aluminum as that was all I had at the time, since then I use copper and magnesium since it gives more voltage. The magnesium won't corrode if you avoid water.
5. The link for the spreadsheet was a no load, voltage only test. The idea is that a water battery voltage will go away as the water battery looses water. This was proven with the other glue cell but the crystal glue cell stayed alive above 1.3V. Yes I do run real load test on my cells. The problem is that they give low amps because they don't use water for their median. I have the 5 foot cell permantly running the LCD clock and I have my 6inch cell that is much like the 5 foot one in the way its made and it runs an analog amp meter. An analog amp meter is almost a short, its a motor that acts on a spring and I watch it to see what happens. I also chart its data and compare it to heat and humidity. Here is the link to the 6 inch cell data from it being hooked up to the analog amp meter.....https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/...Ux4UjA5Q0ZFSGc

I did this experiment last year around the same time and got the same results, here is that video.....Glue Crystal cell does not run on water - YouTube

To All

IB, With your latest information, I decided to pull out an old dry crystal cell and test it from 4-5-12

test - YouTube

It now sits at 1.48 volts and 1.45 MA

Wow! the volts just keep going up, this cell is completely dry

When I put a load on this the amps go down, but then turn around and start climbing

If I add heat it has gone up to 100 MA from 1.45 MA

The heat clearly stimulates the amps up, I believe when a load is applied to this cell it also applies heat to the cell thereby the amps go up

Thermal electric thing going on

IB,

Just wondering if you applied heat to your cells, my bet would be that your amps will go up

Best of luck

[ibpointless2]

IB, I hope you don't mind me asking a few questions. I can tell from your video that you're experiencing a little frustration on the project. I've been there plenty of times myself.
1. Have you used any larger size anodes and cathodes. The wires in the video where small with very little surface area.
2. I noticed you didn't try some of the other combinations of chemicals like alum or borax. At one time alum, Epsom, borax, and salt substitute was a popular combination. I'm wondering about straight alum.
3. It seemed as though you didn't want the crystals to dissolve completely in the glue. Is that the case or did you ever try stirring the crystals into the glue further.
4. It looked like your tests where with aluminum and copper but you made a note to use magnesium. Did you use magnesium and have the same promising results and was the voltage and current better with magnesium? My guess would be the potential was higher but also the risk of corrosion.
5. Was all of your tests with no load? I wonder if corrosion occurs without a load as well as with one. Does anyone have an answer for that?
The reason I ask is I might like to try something but I believe in gathering as much information as I can without reading through thousands of posts.
I'm sorry if all I asked is covered somewhere along the way.
John Hav.

1. Yes I have used bigger electrodes. I have one cell I call my 5 foot cell and it powers my LCD clock. It is overkill for the clock. Here is the video...Update on 5 foot tall Dry Crystal cell - YouTube
2. Yes I have tried many combinations before such as using Alum, borax, baking soda, rubbing alcohol, detergent, garlic, cream of tartar, etc... but they all died off too. Only the crystal glue cell would stay alive with voltage.
3. The salt dissolve in the water that's in the glue. The glue itself only acts as something to bond the electrodes together and also to protect. The water dissolves the salts and the salts while in the water combine together and when the water evaporates away a new unknown salt is left behind that is conductive and it is what makes my cells work. I make other cells like my copper tube cells where I completely dissolve the salt sub and Epsom salt into hot water and I dunk paper in the water and wrap it around a copper pipe. I allow the paper to dry on the pipe for a day or two and then I add the magnesium ribbon around the dry paper, this is how the 5 foot tall crystal cell was made.
4. The data in the spread sheet here....https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/...k1DVF9WQ256T3c
that was posted was all done with copper and magnesium electrodes. Last year when I first made the cells I only used copper and aluminum as that was all I had at the time, since then I use copper and magnesium since it gives more voltage. The magnesium won't corrode if you avoid water.
5. The link for the spreadsheet was a no load, voltage only test. The idea is that a water battery voltage will go away as the water battery looses water. This was proven with the other glue cell but the crystal glue cell stayed alive above 1.3V. Yes I do run real load test on my cells. The problem is that they give low amps because they don't use water for their median. I have the 5 foot cell permantly running the LCD clock and I have my 6inch cell that is much like the 5 foot one in the way its made and it runs an analog amp meter. An analog amp meter is almost a short, its a motor that acts on a spring and I watch it to see what happens. I also chart its data and compare it to heat and humidity. Here is the link to the 6 inch cell data from it being hooked up to the analog amp meter.....https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/...Ux4UjA5Q0ZFSGc

I did this experiment last year around the same time and got the same results, here is that video.....Glue Crystal cell does not run on water - YouTube

[DadHav]

More Info

I'll post because i was ask to. This thread seems to be dying off, I hope no one has given up just yet.

The video that vintasalo talks about is the data i collected over a week about the Glue cells and how they dry out. I had my crystal glue cell that i made and also other cells that either have one or two less ingredient than the crystal glue cell or a completely different ingredient. The goal of the test was to show that water does not stay trapped in the cell like most people have said before. As the glue dried out all cells except the crystal glue cell lost almost all of their voltages. What this shows is that the other cells use water as the median and that's why you got power, but since the crystal glue cell is still alive but has no water then what is its median?

The glue cells were made at the same time and are in the same environment. What this test shows is that water is not at play for the crystal glue cell and if it was the other cells would still working too. So now the new question is what is the median that the crystal glue cell uses? The crystal glue cell and my other cells are batteries that don't use water as a median.

Yes i know it seems like i go in circles here about the water thing but trust me, i want to find the water so that i can put this whole project to rest but when i go looking for the water i can't find it. Yes i know my cells only give uA but its not using water as a median so cut it some slack. The better i know what the median is the more i power i can get. As long as the median is not water the electrodes should last for a very long time.

here is the data..... https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/...k1DVF9WQ256T3c

here is the video..... My Crystal Cells does not use water and the data shows it - YouTube

vintasalo, here is a video i did last year on how to make my crystal glue cell....How to Make a Crystal Glue cell - YouTube

IB, I hope you don't mind me asking a few questions. I can tell from your video that you're experiencing a little frustration on the project. I've been there plenty of times myself.
1. Have you used any larger size anodes and cathodes. The wires in the video where small with very little surface area.
2. I noticed you didn't try some of the other combinations of chemicals like alum or borax. At one time alum, Epsom, borax, and salt substitute was a popular combination. I'm wondering about straight alum.
3. It seemed as though you didn't want the crystals to dissolve completely in the glue. Is that the case or did you ever try stirring the crystals into the glue further.
4. It looked like your tests where with aluminum and copper but you made a note to use magnesium. Did you use magnesium and have the same promising results and was the voltage and current better with magnesium? My guess would be the potential was higher but also the risk of corrosion.
5. Was all of your tests with no load? I wonder if corrosion occurs without a load as well as with one. Does anyone have an answer for that?
The reason I ask is I might like to try something but I believe in gathering as much information as I can without reading through thousands of posts.
I'm sorry if all I asked is covered somewhere along the way.
John Hav.

[ibpointless2]

Hey Guys.. glad to see the magnesium and copper being used. Has anyone yet tried the Teflon on the (Magnesium) cathodes as a dielectric?

Saw in my YouTube Updates IB had a cell Running consistent for 6 or so days on the Glue/Epson/SSub Mix. 1.4Volts and Basically holding

I had a weird thing happen over time to a cell i made with sodium Sil and SSub. With a Copper/Mag setup. It seem to corrode a Copper color on the mix where the copper and Medium met.

lol, I thought I was Doing Alchemy!!

@IBpointless _ What was the Glue you were using? Was the SSub/Epson Crushed together before being mixed in the glue?

I'll post because i was ask to. This thread seems to be dying off, I hope no one has given up just yet.

The video that vintasalo talks about is the data i collected over a week about the Glue cells and how they dry out. I had my crystal glue cell that i made and also other cells that either have one or two less ingredient than the crystal glue cell or a completely different ingredient. The goal of the test was to show that water does not stay trapped in the cell like most people have said before. As the glue dried out all cells except the crystal glue cell lost almost all of their voltages. What this shows is that the other cells use water as the median and that's why you got power, but since the crystal glue cell is still alive but has no water then what is its median?

The glue cells were made at the same time and are in the same environment. What this test shows is that water is not at play for the crystal glue cell and if it was the other cells would still working too. So now the new question is what is the median that the crystal glue cell uses? The crystal glue cell and my other cells are batteries that don't use water as a median.

Yes i know it seems like i go in circles here about the water thing but trust me, i want to find the water so that i can put this whole project to rest but when i go looking for the water i can't find it. Yes i know my cells only give uA but its not using water as a median so cut it some slack. The better i know what the median is the more i power i can get. As long as the median is not water the electrodes should last for a very long time.

here is the data..... https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/...k1DVF9WQ256T3c

here is the video..... My Crystal Cells does not use water and the data shows it - YouTube

vintasalo, here is a video i did last year on how to make my crystal glue cell....How to Make a Crystal Glue cell - YouTube

[vintasalo]

Hello.. Everyone, its been a long time

Hey Guys.. glad to see the magnesium and copper being used. Has anyone yet tried the Teflon on the (Magnesium) cathodes as a dielectric?

Saw in my YouTube Updates IB had a cell Running consistent for 6 or so days on the Glue/Epson/SSub Mix. 1.4Volts and Basically holding

I had a weird thing happen over time to a cell i made with sodium Sil and SSub. With a Copper/Mag setup. It seem to corrode a Copper color on the mix where the copper and Medium met.

lol, I thought I was Doing Alchemy!!

@IBpointless _ What was the Glue you were using? Was the SSub/Epson Crushed together before being mixed in the glue?

[Lidmotor]

Mudwatt

Microbial fuel cell

Interesting read

Microbial fuel cell - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Best of luck

Thanks for the link to the Microbial fuel cell. That opens up a whole new area that we have not really looked deeply into -----but somebody has!!


KeegoTech | MudWatt™ MFC Kit



Remember the "Plant batteries" that most of us made a few years back. Well my "Phyllis" is still going strong after two years and our little microbe friends might be a contributing factor. This "MudWatt" product led me to search Youtube for more info on the microbial fuel cell. It seems that they are not that hard to make. Our blinking LED blocking oscillators (my Penny is one design) should work very easily off this cell. At first I suspected a galvanic situation hiding in the cell somewhere but the more that I researched into it the more I was convinced that the little creatures really are "making" the juice flow. The use of a carbon element for both cathode and anode was convincing and then the fact that the cell takes days before the electrical energy shows up reinforced my conculsion that this IS NOT A GALVANIC CELL!

I started looking for where to get inexpensive parts to make a test cell. The mud we can find anywhere for free but has to have lots of microbes in it. The jar can be anything. The low watt blinking led circuit most of us already have. The hard part was the "carbon felt" for the electrodes. I found that at Lowes in a "BerrnzOmatic heat cloth". That is the expensive part and costs almost $20 with tax. I will keep looking and there might be a better way to do it. You need alot of electrode surface area for the microbes to grow on and that was the reason they chose the carbon felt. Not enough surface area and the power will be very small.

This is something that we can build. Here is the build instruction for the MudWatt. Just fill in your own parts and go for it.

How To Build Your MudWatt - YouTube

Cheers,

Lidmotor

PS---I found other videos on Youtube about making homemade Microbial fuel cells but extreme care needs to be taken not to introduce a dissimilar metal situation anywhere in the build. Even the electrode wires could do it and give a false positive. If you see a voltage right away then something is wrong. It should take a few days to see a voltage show up on the cell. If the power drops off over time ---that is another red flag. The power should remain as long as the microbes are happy and eating. I found the whole idea very facinating when it is working right. There are some good videos explaining the process.