Bedini Earth Light

[Sawt2]

@all:


I have not tried this but intend to on some of my solar 12v batteries.
This is from:
batterystuff.com

This is what they claim:




Brad S

Years ago there was a product called VX-6, I believe cadmium sulfate was the active ingredient in that also. It was a worthwhile product, don't know if its still around though

[b_rads]

Began testing homemade lead plates.

@all:


I have not tried this but intend to on some of my solar 12v batteries.
This is from:
batterystuff.com

This is what they claim:




Brad S

[John_Bedini]

Converson to Alum/Ammonium Aluminum Sulfate

John Hav,
If you get a big one you will do back flips. Everybody is just goofing around with small devices. but if you start to get into the 24 Amp Hr range things will change. The reason for the food grade Alum is simple anything else and you will start to eat the active material on the plates. Epsom Salts is just good one time.Sodium Sulphate will soften the material on the plates and it soon will fall off. Using detergent and tap water will cause the plates to not take a charge as all the active material is dissolved away, the minerals and the chlorine in tap water is very damaging to the plates. The battery works two ways with Sulphuric Acid as a normal Lead Acid Battery or with Food Grade Alum or Ammonium Aluminum Sulfate.

The salt (Ammonium Aluminum Sulfate) is a very good Ionic compound and works very well for ionic transfer, just a little research will point that out. Again I will point out the two different impedances that take place. The impedance is high under charging so current is less. Under load the impedance is very much lower so current is available, My charts do not lie in the video as I have done this many times. Taking a dry Battery off the shelf is the test, and I did that on video and I'm going to do it again. You can lead people to the water but you can not make them drink. In all my years with batteries this one along with the copper magnesium Cell perform the best for current with shifting impedance. Most are unsuccessful because they use junk batteries, junk batteries do not perform, the old saying Junk in Junk out.

This is not Voodoo it's just the way chemistry works in the cells. If you think the store dry charge battery is hard to do try a 1951 Willard battery that has never been formed, that is on video too.

[DadHav]

@ Dadhav
John-- you have to make sure that the metal is clean I found out and it is better if you rough it up with sandpaper to increase the surface area. John Bedini has the Alum mixture very strong---almost like syrup. You can get the food grade Alum at a spice supply outlet online. I have been forming my little one cell plates by zapping them with a 6v battery for about 5 seconds. It bubbles like crazy. Then I discharge it and go again. About three times and the oxides are formed up. I slow charge the cell with 3 volts to get the joules in. Expect to see about a 1.5 volt cell form up. 50/50 solder may or may not work. I think what I showed was 80/20. I found some more on Ebay and also at another dollar store. That stuff was labeled. I am currently trying linotype lead and that works very good. It is 84% lead with antimony and tin. The antimony makes the alloy stronger and stiffer.


Hope this helped.

Lidmotor

Hi Rusty. I decided to leave the solder behind and try a small LAB. This one is a small 1.3 ah that I totally abused and had no use for. I'm still getting used to the charge / discharge characteristics. I hear ya on the way you are charging. So far for the first 6 cycles it seems like my little battery does not like to be charged with two much current, but I don't want to elaborate yet till I know more about what I'm doing. I will say the battery is usable again. I have also been discharging the battery with the stator motor and window motor, just to mess around with the impedance characteristics. It looks like there's some new ideas to play around with. The battery liked running the stator motor with the half wave mini circuit and a feedback. The battery certainly isn't where I'd do back flips yet but it really is a fun experiment so far and I think it's worth spending time with, especially with John leading the way.
John Hav.

[br0ns0n77]

So I'm pretty new to all this experimentation, but I was wondering if there was a way to use these batteries in parallel in a 12v system being they don't actually settle down above 11v?

How would these batteries become applicable running things like an inverter or powering small 12v appliances? Forgive me for my naivety.

Thanks for the insight in advance!

[prato_braun]

Here it is again.
Alum

Ammonium aluminium sulfate - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Thanks for the quick clarification

[CrystalDipoleMatrix]

Here it is again.
Alum

Ammonium aluminium sulfate - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Hi John, just want to know why you use ammonium alum and not potash alum?? The ammonium alum is a synthetic product and the potassium alum is from a natural rock. Ammonium alum is highly toxic. My alum is from the ''clubhouse'' spice brand, it's potash alum (small crystals) and all my 4 crystal batteries are running since 2 weeks now with no water added since 7 days. I have a pulse motor running off 3 cells in series and a cell powering a blocking oscillator led.

[John_Bedini]

Alum Food Grade

Here it is again.
Alum

Ammonium aluminium sulfate - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Hi guys,

could you please clarify which alum to use? I read somewhere that it has to be
Ammonium aluminium sulfate but on this site it says sodium aluminum silicate:

How to convert a Lead Acid Battery into an Alkaline Battery - Sepp Hasslberger

Thanks a lot guys.
Cheers,

Prato

[DadHav]

Hi guys,

could you please clarify which alum to use? I read somewhere that it has to be
Ammonium aluminium sulfate but on this site it says sodium aluminum silicate:

How to convert a Lead Acid Battery into an Alkaline Battery - Sepp Hasslberger

Thanks a lot guys.
Cheers,

Prato

Hello Prato, I also wonder what the electrolyte is for the iron / nickle battery. That sounds interesting as well. They mention 400 cycles on the Alum battery. I wonder what is the actual breakdown in the battery that ends the cycle or if it can be rejuvenated again. Lot's of questions eh?
John Hav.

[redrichie]

Maybe this question is for jb but if anyone else knows feel free. Edison invented the nickel iron battery for Electric cars. (Way back then he could get over 100 miles on a charge. Go figure.) The batteries are nearly indestructable. Would the alum work in this battery?
And please will someone tell me what to do with the sulphuric acid I dump out of these batteries. I have 3 batteries worth in a bucket. Would neutralizing with baking soda water be enough? Then just dump it onto the ground?

[DadHav]

@ Dadhav
John-- you have to make sure that the metal is clean I found out and it is better if you rough it up with sandpaper to increase the surface area. John Bedini has the Alum mixture very strong---almost like syrup. You can get the food grade Alum at a spice supply outlet online. I have been forming my little one cell plates by zapping them with a 6v battery for about 5 seconds. It bubbles like crazy. Then I discharge it and go again. About three times and the oxides are formed up. I slow charge the cell with 3 volts to get the joules in. Expect to see about a 1.5 volt cell form up. 50/50 solder may or may not work. I think what I showed was 80/20. I found some more on Ebay and also at another dollar store. That stuff was labeled. I am currently trying linotype lead and that works very good. It is 84% lead with antimony and tin. The antimony makes the alloy stronger and stiffer.


Hope this helped.

Lidmotor

Hi Rusty. Thanks for helping out. I'm rinsing out a small battery right now to try out but still want to make a fully serviceable battery. I know food grade Alum should be used, but I wonder how it can be different than 99% pure from E-Bay. You can get three pounds for $15.00 and free shipping. Our grocery store sells McCormick but its about $4.00 for a few ounces. We have a huge metal salvage and supply house here. I'd bet I could find some lead plate there. I'll check this week. I'll talk with you later after I try the little conversion. Did you notice in the video showing how batteries are made that they had a different coating for the negative plates of the battery, but they didn't say what it was.
Take care.
John Hav.

[prato_braun]

Please Clarify

Hi guys,

could you please clarify which alum to use? I read somewhere that it has to be
Ammonium aluminium sulfate but on this site it says sodium aluminum silicate:

How to convert a Lead Acid Battery into an Alkaline Battery - Sepp Hasslberger

Thanks a lot guys.
Cheers,

Prato

[Allwest]

@ Dadhav
John-- you have to make sure that the metal is clean I found out and it is better if you rough it up with sandpaper to increase the surface area. John Bedini has the Alum mixture very strong---almost like syrup. You can get the food grade Alum at a spice supply outlet online. I have been forming my little one cell plates by zapping them with a 6v battery for about 5 seconds. It bubbles like crazy. Then I discharge it and go again. About three times and the oxides are formed up. I slow charge the cell with 3 volts to get the joules in. Expect to see about a 1.5 volt cell form up. 50/50 solder may or may not work. I think what I showed was 80/20. I found some more on Ebay and also at another dollar store. That stuff was labeled. I am currently trying linotype lead and that works very good. It is 84% lead with antimony and tin. The antimony makes the alloy stronger and stiffer.


Hope this helped.

Lidmotor

Lid,
Have you tried other mixtures with the Alum, I have seen other videos, where they used other mixtures that created more power?

Best of luck

[Lidmotor]

plate forming

@ Dadhav
John-- you have to make sure that the metal is clean I found out and it is better if you rough it up with sandpaper to increase the surface area. John Bedini has the Alum mixture very strong---almost like syrup. You can get the food grade Alum at a spice supply outlet online. I have been forming my little one cell plates by zapping them with a 6v battery for about 5 seconds. It bubbles like crazy. Then I discharge it and go again. About three times and the oxides are formed up. I slow charge the cell with 3 volts to get the joules in. Expect to see about a 1.5 volt cell form up. 50/50 solder may or may not work. I think what I showed was 80/20. I found some more on Ebay and also at another dollar store. That stuff was labeled. I am currently trying linotype lead and that works very good. It is 84% lead with antimony and tin. The antimony makes the alloy stronger and stiffer.


Hope this helped.

Lidmotor

[Allwest]

Hmmmm, sugars ! could that be it ?!
From cane to syrups, that's worth exploring with same metal cells. Even the high fructose corn stuff might gain a use, it's in everything else.
Sugar and alum appeals as a test. Mix as much as will dissolve in warmed distilled water, use the Ziploc wrapping and rubber bands and throw it in the sunlight.

Have paused for thought, while waiting for 2 lead plates to neutralize in Baking Soda. Am looking properly at photosynthesis.
Within the page here: Photosynthesis I see that there is a diagram with Magnesium at the middle.

Slider
Very interesting read, thanks