Bedini Earth Light

[plengo]

Hello all, first off I would like to say thank you Plengo for inviting me to this thread! It is very informative and a great place for research collaboration (although I could do without the drama )



So I have a few things to add and a couple questions for you all

I have replicated some of Plengo's work which I understand is based off of John Bedini's work. [By the way Bedini I did a school project about your advancements in Alternative Energies when I was younger ]

Here I made a video of my first strong cell which is 3 smaller cells in series:

Water Battery lights LED underwater - YouTube

This is a pretty nice cell which lights up some LEDs nice and bright.

So then I added on to it and made it 9 cells in series which came to about 12.5 volts right after assembly. I was actually pretty excited about this voltage

My first question is: Can the amperage only be as strong (for the entire battery) as the weakest cell in the series?

My second question would be regarding the loss of not only amperage but the voltage when put under a load over time. I don't know if you can see in the video I posted, but I have used paper towels between the magnesium and carbon to help with corrosion. This is because I am still waiting on my sodium silicate solution to arrive in the mail. When this comes I am planning on covering the magnesium in a layer of iron pyrite using the silicate as a 'glue'. This is based off of Plengo's work.

The corrosion is appearing on the magnesium even though the paper towel is still pretty white on the inside. The corrosion is a blackish residue that seems to be eating away at the outside of the magnesium causing depressions.

So the question is: (maybe directed at you Plengo ) Will my cells stop corroding as much after I put on the pyrite layer and will they stop losing their voltage and amperage?

If I can get some answers on these two questions it will really help to further my understanding of this amazing technology.

Thanks all

Welcome aboard. This forum is full of knowledge and you will learn a lot for sure.

Concerning the Iron Pyrite and Mg and Silica cell you see on my videos, they are one among over 100 cells formulas that I already tried. I still have cells running with that formula. More water just revive them. The cell is rock like a rock and I can not see the insides but no matter what it is running.

So to be honest I think it can run for a long time even though it will lose some of its power but not all at all.

Fausto.

[Allwest]

To All

I found the results data after two years of use by a alum filled lead acid battery

Lead Acid Car battery to Alkaline rechargeable battery conversion Over 1 Year later! Update - YouTube

Very impressive

Best of luck

[Allwest]

To All,

Apparently these battery conversions from Acid to Alum, have been going on for some time, I remember seeing this awhile back

Lead Acid Car battery to Alkaline rechargeable battery conversion - YouTube

Make sure you click on the update at the end of video

This was two years ago, I am sure they have more info-data sense then

Best of luck

[Nick_Z]

I have the same old totally dead 12v, 4.5ah battery. It's junk, so I just dumped the acid, and filled it with some salty water and got 1.2 volt, 4mA. I'll put a solar charge on it tomorrow, just for fun.
This video (below) the electrolyte mix is two tablespoons of table salt, to a quart of water. I did not make the video, just thought it was interesting.
I'm sure that Epsom, or Alum would work better, but even plain salt works, also.

Cómo hacer una pila eléctrica con agua y sal. How to make a salt water battery - YouTube

[Allwest]

Melting lead

To All

In metal shop in high school, a couple of years ago Ha!

We had forms for melted metals, not much to it, moist sand imprinted with any shape you wanted, pour in the melt

But sometimes the sand would be impregnated into the metal, not good

But it may be interesting to setup a grid pattern for melted lead, and let the sand (alum, salt or other) be impregnated into it, to see if this helps the power

Lead is a very easy melt, but be careful, it may cause you to grow hair out of your nose

Best of luck

[area46241]

Magnesium sulfate or potasium sulfate?

Which electrolyte works better in a converted battery? I have seen the energetics alum converted battery videos and read John Bedini's post about how he was using epsom salts and sticking with it early on in this topic thread and now lidmotor is doing both cell types. Just currious how the epsom salt converted lead cells stack up when compared to the alum lead cells ... It appears that understanding and common sense have returned to the thread...thankyou all damon

[Allwest]

Windows open, fan blowing anything away, Dremmel spun up......

Internals

WoW! Slider,

I always wanted to see what was inside a battery

You may want to try and use baking soda to neutralize the acid

Be careful, and take lots of pic's

Good luck

[Slider2732]

Windows open, fan blowing anything away, Dremmel spun up......

Internals

[Slider2732]

I'm sure that other 'stuff' that we have made is going to work on these too
A stovetop lead based cell next ?

Been on the lookout for cast away wheels on roadsides...thought they'd be common around here
I read though that many of the wheel weights are now simply alloys, not lead.
However, I have a real junker 12V gel battery that was gained from Freecycle, it's puffed out at the side and that is to go under the hammer, to see what's what inside and do some salvage.
Then i'll replicate more poperly and try the stovetop ideas too. The thinking goes that while most salts cells seem to have water locked up somewhere, we can solidify the cell and yet charge it up too.

Update -
The donor 12V 4.5Ah battery with the bulge was hooked up straight to a uA blocking oscillator...and flashes it once per second. Would probably run for ages, but what's the point ! Time to dissect.

[Lidmotor]

More Good News

@All
I got the "solder cell" to work with Epsom salt and distilled water.
I did alot of research on lead acid battery chemistry yesterday and kept bumping into sites that talked about rejuvenating weak batteries using Epsom salt and distilled water. Since I already knew that the Alum (aluminum sulfate) worked on my solder cell I wondered if maybe Epsom salt (magnesium sulfate) would work. It did.

I also looked into lead alloys --specifically the lead acid battery plate alloys and solder alloys. I am pretty sure now that my cheap solder is mostly lead with only a slight amount of tin.

Last night I hooked up one of my "Penny" oscillators to the solder cell that I had charged up with the 3v solar cell. It ran the light all night (at a low setting) and still had 1.4v on it this morning.

I made a 4 sinker cell that is also performing well but oddly has a negative
electrode that is black and a positive that is dark brown. That sinker metal might be some kind of alloy also instead of pure lead.

According to my research the lead plates in acid batteries are usually lead with a slight amount of tin and antimony. The sulfate (SO4) appears to be the chemical player in why my simple cells work with either an Aum or Epsom salt electrolyte---but I'm just guessing.

Solder & Epsom Salt --Homemade rechargeable battery - YouTube


@ Slider
Maybe you could find some wheel weights or lead sinkers and try it again. This cheap solder that I found might be not that common.

Lidmotor

[Slider2732]

@Lidmotor - I replicated your solder cell, of a fashion last night.
A long time ago, I found some thick and quite dark solder in the street. It was a jumble of a mess, but about 8ft of it, so I picked it up and used nearly all of it. Luckily, there was about 1ft of it left, so I thought 'what the heck' and cut it into 2 pieces. The main thing was to see if anything at all happened, not knowing the lead content.
Winding up into 2 tiny pancakes for surface area, the water and Alum was added.
The polarizing was with 3.25V and very wasteful, by using a chain of diodes from my workhorse Alum converted car battery. We can be wasteful with such things in such circumstances
The Positive mini coil went a darker grey/brown and the Negative a brighter silvery colour.
Trying to charge with a solar cell under my work table lamp did nothing much, it would climb to a volt and then fall way back to 70uA after about a minute when off charge.
So I waited til the sun was out today. The cell was covered over, so the solution didn't evaporate overnight.
In the pic below, 5 cells are in parallel from solar garden lights, 2V output and around 140mA.
Immediately on connection, the Negative started to bubble (what's the gas ?)
The positive has turned back to grey and i've probably destroyed whatever good stuff was going on...who cares though, the fun of this is well worth it.


Larger version - http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a1...7/100_1095.jpg

After 30mins on such a charge, the cell was disconnected and immediately fell to 40uA. There was a mess of dark debris all around the Negative electrode, presumed 'burnt' off the solder when it bubbled.

Things i've learned:
Pancake windings are great for surface area and could allow the stacking of plates. Bubbling is a bad sign and amperage in seems to relate to cell plate surface area. Covering the solution stops evaporation (duh). Even little solar panels can be to much charge for little cells. This street found solder doesn't work

[Allwest]

John, and All

I need to find a depolarizing agent for a cell I am working on

Do you feel the Cream of Tartar acts as a Chemical depolarizing agent, like Manganese Dioxide

Best of luck

[Allwest]

Plengo,

I have tried the New Allwest Power cell method to almost all metals, and it works on all types, lead is no exception

The results are .60 volts and 20Ma lasting a long time, not much power, but if you add a sacrificial Mag strip in with it, the power goes way up, Hydrogen is flowing off the Mag strip and will probably be eaten up very quickly (Mag lasted about a day, completely gone)

Interesting about the lead, is that half the time it shows shorted with not much change in the power, the ohm reading is 0

Best of luck to all

[pastfuturetechnology]

Greetings!

Hello all, first off I would like to say thank you Plengo for inviting me to this thread! It is very informative and a great place for research collaboration (although I could do without the drama )



So I have a few things to add and a couple questions for you all

I have replicated some of Plengo's work which I understand is based off of John Bedini's work. [By the way Bedini I did a school project about your advancements in Alternative Energies when I was younger ]

Here I made a video of my first strong cell which is 3 smaller cells in series:

Water Battery lights LED underwater - YouTube

This is a pretty nice cell which lights up some LEDs nice and bright.

So then I added on to it and made it 9 cells in series which came to about 12.5 volts right after assembly. I was actually pretty excited about this voltage

My first question is: Can the amperage only be as strong (for the entire battery) as the weakest cell in the series?

My second question would be regarding the loss of not only amperage but the voltage when put under a load over time. I don't know if you can see in the video I posted, but I have used paper towels between the magnesium and carbon to help with corrosion. This is because I am still waiting on my sodium silicate solution to arrive in the mail. When this comes I am planning on covering the magnesium in a layer of iron pyrite using the silicate as a 'glue'. This is based off of Plengo's work.

The corrosion is appearing on the magnesium even though the paper towel is still pretty white on the inside. The corrosion is a blackish residue that seems to be eating away at the outside of the magnesium causing depressions.

So the question is: (maybe directed at you Plengo ) Will my cells stop corroding as much after I put on the pyrite layer and will they stop losing their voltage and amperage?

If I can get some answers on these two questions it will really help to further my understanding of this amazing technology.

Thanks all

[Schiko]