Bedini Earth Light

[John_Bedini]

I have played a fair game

Well All,
You see I have played a fair game the whole time. I tried IB's method many times as I wanted to give it a fair shake, does not work for any type of current, well maybe at first but that's it. Chemicals are funny things. The Alum battery that has been running at my shop since all this was started is still running, yes the magnesium does slowly go but it packs the most power of all the metals used except lead.

Everything in this world is galvanic that is just nature. So you either except it or not. Now if your worried about Galvanic action then it is lead you seek, and I'm not kidding. Ib, you have kept on me from day one, in fact your still talking about me, what is it with you? If I built a kit you picked on that too, You must have no Idea how much things cost to manufacture now. I machined parts and run ovens that cost money, I just can't buy one stick of magnesium I must buy 100Pcs and the same for the copper. By the time every thing is done your lucky if you get 20% of that money.

Your best cell is Alum in a dry lead acid battery, proven time and time again why, Current to run things and it's fast recharged if you need to. I have experimented with many different cell just like B rads I know what is galvanic when I see it and I know the chemistry too. The two different plates in a lead acid dry battery will kick your butt and you can take it to zero volts without harm, try that with anything else.

The mixture is a little thicker then you think and maybe a pinch of Tartar. This is just plain chemistry. If you were worried about slowing down galvanic action then I'm surprised that B rads did not tell you the trick, what did they rub on zinc in the old days, and oh yes everybody has that in their bodys system anyway it's in the food. People my age probably chewed led paint right off the crib, I'm still here, but all the "New Agers" are dead at 30.

I would have continued with the Reid battery but it is a waste of my time with something that has no current and is very caustic. and what Ib was doing has no current either. You all need to pick something that can run real things in an emergency and that something must have current and be able to charge real fast, with solar or whatever. You could even do this with solder if the two pieces are different. So you have your answer from me.
here is your own Quote, All truth passes through three stages. First, it is ridiculed. Second, it is violently opposed. Third, it is accepted as being self-evident. - Arthur Schopenhauer. Practice what you preach. and Oh, the lead acid battery never crossed your mind until Chuck and I showed it on youtube.

[ibpointless2]

Here is a video of my clean battery powering 30 of these 12 volt automotive LED's.
Big Clean Crystal cell powering 30 12 Volt LED's - YouTube

[CrystalDipoleMatrix]

Please come back John!!

John, the problem here is that everybody was missing the whole point like you just pointed it out. If we keep things simple and we play fair game a little bit these new technologies will bring us where we want it in the long run. It takes time and discipline but we need your precious help to acheive our goal: We will running out of time soon as you know!

[CrystalDipoleMatrix]

What's happening??

Hello, my alum crystal cell is bone dry now (hard like a rock and about 4 feet from my air conditionner ). Two days ago I tried to remove the small magnesium cutted rod from the copper cap (there is about 5mm thick of alum crystals all around the magnesium in between the mag and the copper cap) and I was just not able to do so....It's sticked to it!! The led is pulsing very rapidly and the brigthness is good (you can read with it in the dark). If I short the cell, it gives me about 1-2 ma's and it sit there. If I reconnect the cell , the voltage come right back and the led shine instantly! I just don't understand!! Maybe the alum is growing and it's acting like a pressure cell?? I will do another cell but with epson salt only this time to compare and see the difference. It's so simple, stupid!!!

[ibpointless2]

Those big Alum cell not one bit of corrosion, should I make another video.
John Bedini

One more thing, how do you prove they're not corroding?

[ibpointless2]

Ib,
What you should really do is pick a new field to play in, maybe computers. You should have seen by now how to pick two metals that will not corrode, in fact you almost had it over on the Energy Science Forum. Lidmotor found it right away, in fact I did show you how to convert a lead battery but somehow you have missed the whole point. Those big Alum cell not one bit of corrosion, should I make another video. I left here because you just keep up the same nonsense, over, and over. I have let you be on the other forum because I think you should have your say, but others already have some of the best cells running. Anyway I have said my piece. have fun doing the same thing over and over. But you will never beat the Alum cell for power.
John Bedini

Like i said before, the use of a empty lead acid battery for a crystal cell is a great idea. What i use in my lead acid battery doesn't not compare to the alum and water conversion that you did but nothing ventured is nothing gained. The battery lights a LED very nicely and I can power a strip of 30 12 volt automotive lights just fine off of it. This battery was a step in making a cell that was bigger and had more power and I did this. Like i said the using of a empty lead acid battery was a great idea John I can't argue with you about that.

[John_Bedini]

over, and over

Ib,
What you should really do is pick a new field to play in, maybe computers. You should have seen by now how to pick two metals that will not corrode, in fact you almost had it over on the Energy Science Forum. Lidmotor found it right away, in fact I did show you how to convert a lead battery but somehow you have missed the whole point. Those big Alum cell not one bit of corrosion, should I make another video. I left here because you just keep up the same nonsense, over, and over. I have let you be on the other forum because I think you should have your say, but others already have some of the best cells running. Anyway I have said my piece. have fun doing the same thing over and over. But you will never beat the Alum cell for power.
John Bedini

[ibpointless2]

This video sums up my experiences with testing John Bedini's cell. This will be the last you hear of me doing his types of cells, I have others cells i will focus on instead. In the video I show you data of his cell compared to the cells that I made that were treated to the same test criteria. Corrosion testing on B2 and comparing to other cells - YouTube

[Nick_Z]

We do care about results, every ones POSITIVE results, but, not just that the Mg ribbon (or rod) is not oxidizing when placed in a cup of water.
But, to come up with a useable cell that can light leds for a long time. By testing different cells in a normal working condition. Not by freezing them, heating them, putting them in a vise, dropping them in all kinds of liquids, etz... But by testing them in a normal working conditions for extended periods of time, with an led load, and to later show what works, and can be recommended.
We also know that constant or regular waterings are not going to help to make for a long lasting cell. Open cells may not last long either, although there may be exceptions.
I'm mentioning that carbon and the use of carbon rods will not oxidize, nor will stainless steel, or some other metals. But, as John mentioned carbon, or stainless can't be made into a semiconductor (one way ion valve) , for use in our type of cells. So, they may have a disadvantage over treated copper, treated Mg, or treated Aluminum. But, they still work well, are easy to make, and free, at least for me, as I also use beach sand and ocean water. Free or almost free. Spending $50 for a battery, and getting only a couple of volts from it, with hardly no current, to light a few leds? I'm grateful for the info, but it's not something I would do. If the battery comes to me free of charge, discarded or very cheap, then that may be a good option, and cost effective. But, for $50 I think that a small solar panel/battery set up to work with would provide alot more useable power.
If a cell is made the same way as regular two metal galvanic cell is made, it will corrode and the Mg or Al will get consumed, which is how the cell gets its power, by one metal giving up its electrons and atoms. This I only mention for any newbies, as most of us are all too familiar with the galvanic reactions, in general. So, the only way to avoid this is to not allow it to happen. There is no other magic solution.
So, let's work together on this, as the team that we once were, so we can get to where we say that we want to go with it all. NOT by arguing about it, but by sharing positive result, and maybe, just maybe, we can get John B to join us, once again.

NickZ

[cgalvisardila]

I'm doing the same test again but with 99.99% pure magnesium rod. The electrolyte is alum, cream of tartar, and distilled water. The starting thickness of the magnesium rod is 15.75mm on 8-29-12 and weighs 31 grams. Today 8-31-12 the rod thickness is as low as 14.90mm and weighs 30 grams. I made the copper into semiconductor copper. Magnesium ribbon is very pure, its got to be if you want to set it on fire. Since magnesium is at the very end of the chart of electronegative metals any other metal added to it will lower its electronegative, the more magnesium it is the more electronegative it is.

My whole problem with this whole thing is that people say its not corroding but they don't provide the data that its not corroding. I provided number such as thickness and weight of the magnesium to show a decay in it. You can't simple say its not corroding because it doesn't look like its corroding.

I'm not going to post anymore on this type of cell as people don't care about the results i get from doing the corrosion testing. I have built cells that don't corrode the magnesium ribbon so it is possible to use magnesium ribbon as a anode and not have it corrode.

Ib, i'm glad you're not going to post anymore on this type of cell, we all know what you think a LONG time ago and yet you keep insisting. hope you keep your word because you might end up confusing the newer people. you're right about one thing, they are not ideal and do have problems, but they are the highest output, longest lasting cells that have been made so far and they have been replicated and i myself can confirm many of the claims that bedini has made by building them and testing. where's your research on a cell that doesn't corrode the Mg ribbon... it's your dream right? then why waste your time building alum batteries which you clearly dont believe in and use your time and money researching on making that dream come true?...you say we don't show results? well they take a long time to show up, but here's the experiment i've been telling you about, i'm not just saying that, if i had a blind trust for john i wouldn't bother in replicating accurately and testing, i have to see it for myself and if i post here, i post results, i'ts all i do. you only post what you think. you already are discrediting these type of cell and it was like 2 days ago only that you got your rods right?.... by the way i never said i'ts not corroding, you can see in these pics that it is, its a white coating of corrosion, not black.... we've been though this before.

it's still not enough to draw conclusions but since you are so eager to see results on tests, here's pictures of the Mg rod dipped in a paste of alum an cream of tartar. first is still covered with the alum, and second it's cleaned up gently, it's been 6 days... the ribbon was gone long before this time (2 days)

[ibpointless2]

thanks for the tip! ill try it...

ib,

john has stated many times about the ribbon, it's not good for testing because it's not pure, everyone that sells it says its 98% or 99.9999% or something like that, but that doesn't mean it is really pure, you could put whatever on the label, only testing it will give you the truth. i have a rod from an anode as recomended by john, that i'm testing in a paste of alum and cream of tartar with a semiconductor copper plate. there's a white layer forming on the rod, no denting or destructive corrosion no eating up, it's been 5 days, we'll see on the long run. i did the same test a while ago with the ribbon and it vanished in 2 days... clearly its not the same thing. it seems that other metals and material in the ribbon do react very agressively with alum, iron specially gets a beating, but for some reason Mg and FIRED SEMICONDUCTIVE COPPER do real well in alum...

cheers
carlos

I'm doing the same test again but with 99.99% pure magnesium rod. The electrolyte is alum, cream of tartar, and distilled water. The starting thickness of the magnesium rod is 15.75mm on 8-29-12 and weighs 31 grams. Today 8-31-12 the rod thickness is as low as 14.90mm and weighs 30 grams. I made the copper into semiconductor copper. Magnesium ribbon is very pure, its got to be if you want to set it on fire. Since magnesium is at the very end of the chart of electronegative metals any other metal added to it will lower its electronegative, the more magnesium it is the more electronegative it is.

My whole problem with this whole thing is that people say its not corroding but they don't provide the data that its not corroding. I provided number such as thickness and weight of the magnesium to show a decay in it. You can't simple say its not corroding because it doesn't look like its corroding.

I'm not going to post anymore on this type of cell as people don't care about the results i get from doing the corrosion testing. I have built cells that don't corrode the magnesium ribbon so it is possible to use magnesium ribbon as a anode and not have it corrode.

[br0ns0n77]

Joule Thief Modification Question

Hey guys - I'm wanting to use a joule thief circuit on something besides an LED with my cells. I'm attaching a photo of the circuit with some notes. Instead of using the pos/neg leads on the LED, I'm attaching two wires in the place of it. I wanted to use those to connect to other devices such as a radio etc. For some reason I can't get it to work. Any ideas on how to do this?

Thanks in advance for the help.

[cgalvisardila]

I added an 2.2 uf 50v cap in series with the LED and this cap is in parallel with an 10 meg variable resistor to do the pulsing. It does the trick!! To add power some more I added an 100 uf 10v cap in parallel with the crystal cell. It does improve the pulsing even more!

thanks for the tip! ill try it...

ib,

john has stated many times about the ribbon, it's not good for testing because it's not pure, everyone that sells it says its 98% or 99.9999% or something like that, but that doesn't mean it is really pure, you could put whatever on the label, only testing it will give you the truth. i have a rod from an anode as recomended by john, that i'm testing in a paste of alum and cream of tartar with a semiconductor copper plate. there's a white layer forming on the rod, no denting or destructive corrosion no eating up, it's been 5 days, we'll see on the long run. i did the same test a while ago with the ribbon and it vanished in 2 days... clearly its not the same thing. it seems that other metals and material in the ribbon do react very agressively with alum, iron specially gets a beating, but for some reason Mg and FIRED SEMICONDUCTIVE COPPER do real well in alum...

cheers
carlos

[Nick_Z]

Once a oxide layer forms on the mag on its own, the gassing may slow down somewhat.
Both metals need the oxide layer that is totally non conductive to electrons.

In testing a previously made Carbon/Al cell that is now months old I found it is showing a higher voltage than when is was first made. Now, at 1.350 volts, and 6mA, the important observation is the the center positive pole which is stainless steel is showing NO Oxidation, at all. Since this cell also contain silica gel pellets, it is constantly dripping salt water, and actually forming salty puddles, right through the cell which has only tape with pin holes on the bottom, so non stop puddles are forming on their bottoms for months. I have to place a cup to catch this excess water, or it will damage the table that they are sitting on. No additional waterings were ever needed, but I did at times add few drops of sea water to replace their original salt content levels, but that was also months ago.
I also have another cell similar to the one mentioned above that has a positive pole out of carbon rod, instead of the stainless steel, and it shows 1.2volts, and 32 mA. Again this cell is also many months old. Both work and both had been made with just plain sea water added to the activated carbon and beach sand mix, then left mostly untouched. The silica really helps to keep these cells damp or even dripping wet, and the more humidity there is in the air, the more these cell absorb it like a sponge.

[ibpointless2]

My big 99.99% pure Magnesium rods came in today. I have taken one and placed it shorted out with a copper wire that has been turned into a semiconductor copper. They sit in the alum, cream of tartar, and distilled water mix. Lost of bubbles form from this which lead me to think its corroding just like the magnesium ribbon was. the amount of bubbles created worry me as these bubbles might be hydrogen which is flammable. The rod weights 31 grams and 15.75 to 15.82 mm is the thickness. If the rod corrodes then It will be fair to use magnesium ribbon instead of rods because if the rod corrodes then the magnesium ribbon will corrode too and Vice versa.

If you can make a cell that doesn't corrode magnesium ribbon than it won't corrode magnesium rod and that is why i use magnesium ribbon.

I'm going to report on what happen to the magnesium rod overnight. The rod thickness where its not in the water is around 15.75 but the thickness that's in the water is around 15.30mm. Its gotten physical thinner but something interesting happen. The salts seem to settle at the bottom and when they do that it seems the bubbles almost stop. No bubbles could mean no corrosion. With the salts at the bottom the cell is at 1.6 volts @ 30mA easily. It seems the reaction could have slowed down or stopped but i'm not sure until i run the test for a little longer. mixing the salts back up in the water does create more bubbles but its less bubbles when it started.