Bedini Earth Light

[br0ns0n77]

Copper/Mg Tube Cell

Hey guys, just wanted to show you a short video of the latest cell I made. I've been reading the stuff about surfactants so I decided to give it a try. It's heated copper with Mg ribbon. In between is a paper towel with an alum + gain detergent mixture. It ran nearly 12+ hours at the same intensity, then I had to add a couple of drops of water to restart like most of the cells everyone has been making. I just can't see where we will ever get much in the way of amps out of these rascals. I think this one was around 10ma without load and the oscillator. I'll keep you guys updated on how the Mg holds up.

Magnesium Copper Crystal Battery Powering LED - YouTube

On another note, does anyone have a source for larger toroids, say 4" outside diameter? I'm wanting to make the lasersaber joule ringer.

Thanks in advance.

[magnetmotorguy]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eJ3RdcXOA4Q

[ibpointless2]

this may be easier Magnesium Metal Rod, 15mm X 93mm, 99.95%
Listing is for 5 Rods US $15.99

Magnesium Metal Rod, 15mm X 93mm, 99.95% | eBay

Thank you just what I'm looking for.

[Allwest]

Hi cgalvisardila, I have seen the videos he made about the crystal cells. As for the magnesium ribbon i use 99.8% pure magnesium. Magnesium Ribbons,5 Coils,65ft-75ft each,99.8% Pure GalliumSource,LLC: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

It being thin is actually a good thing, the thinner it is the quicker it will show destructive corrosion. The bigger the magnesium the longer it takes for it to corrode. If you can make a cell that uses magnesium ribbon and doesn't corrode the magnesium ribbon would be the goal, since it is thin and easy to break. If the ribbon doesn't corrode than it would be safe to move on to bigger magnesium since you won't have to worry about it corroding. The only thing that bedini does have me at is that even though its pure magnesium the magnesium ribbon is made to be burned so some impurity's may develop on the skin of the magnesium but the magnesium is still pure (99.8% pure).

I do have one of those magnesium anodes with the iron core. How would you remove the iron core?

this may be easier Magnesium Metal Rod, 15mm X 93mm, 99.95%
Listing is for 5 Rods US $15.99

Magnesium Metal Rod, 15mm X 93mm, 99.95% | eBay

[ibpointless2]

ib... bless you man, hope you find a way, this is why we're a team.

cheers

carlos

Thanks. If i do find more stuff that works I'll let everyone know.

[cgalvisardila]

I do have one of those magnesium anodes with the iron core. How would you remove the iron core? [/QUOTE]

you drill through it... i've done it succesfully.

crystal dipole, yes, that's precisely what bedini suggests, you have to look at the minute details... by having a solid crystal you can water it with just a few drops, this is proven to get the cell going strong, the key is to have a porous solid crystal. having a big mg rod will give you many years of life. i have seen the experiments that fausto has shown, according to that it's evident that a white oxide around the Mg could be beneficial, and this mix only shows white corrosion. guess we just have to sit and wait to see how many years it takes to find out... if it stops the corrosion or if it takes more than 10 years to disappear completely, ill cal it a success, untill someone finds a way to not have any corrosion at all, ib... bless you man, hope you find a way, this is why we're a team.

cheers

carlos

[Allwest]

I saw this on youtube:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eJ3RdcXOA4Q

Seems to be getting a lot of hate. I don't know, you think it's real?

Magnetmotorguy

Try this one on for size
candles make electricity - YouTube

[ibpointless2]

Ib,

Bedini talks about all this in the conference, the dvd is very detailed, and he does talk about the importance of the quality and geometry of the cell.... he talks very enfatically about the ribbon being #1, too thin, so the white coorosion takes over the whole body of the metal and 2, ribbon is poor quality, very porous and not pure mg. so he proposes to build the cell with a very pure thick Mg rod that will form a coating of corrosion which will eventually end up protecting the rest of the rod once the mg is fully covered and you should try to find very pure magnesium anode material, dont buy loose rods, he thinks the best are the ones they sell for anodes, they use those in the ground, they have a iron core which should be removed, seems to be very pure and perform real well, not easy to find... i found some of those here

Welcome to RotoMetals, Inc - Non Ferrous Metals and Custom Alloys Call Toll Free 1-800-779-1102...

i gues only time will tell if john is right, but so far ive had great results following instructions from him, both on the batteries and with the ssg monopole... cheers

Hi cgalvisardila, I have seen the videos he made about the crystal cells. As for the magnesium ribbon i use 99.8% pure magnesium. http://www.amazon.com/Magnesium-Ribb...gnesium+ribbon

It being thin is actually a good thing, the thinner it is the quicker it will show destructive corrosion. The bigger the magnesium the longer it takes for it to corrode. If you can make a cell that uses magnesium ribbon and doesn't corrode the magnesium ribbon would be the goal, since it is thin and easy to break. If the ribbon doesn't corrode than it would be safe to move on to bigger magnesium since you won't have to worry about it corroding. The only thing that bedini does have me at is that even though its pure magnesium the magnesium ribbon is made to be burned so some impurity's may develop on the skin of the magnesium but the magnesium is still pure (99.8% pure).

I do have one of those magnesium anodes with the iron core. How would you remove the iron core?

[cgalvisardila]

Ib,

Bedini talks about all this in the conference, the dvd is very detailed, and he does talk about the importance of the quality and geometry of the cell.... he talks very enfatically about the ribbon being #1, too thin, so the white coorosion takes over the whole body of the metal and 2, ribbon is poor quality, very porous and not pure mg. so he proposes to build the cell with a very pure thick Mg rod that will form a coating of corrosion which will eventually end up protecting the rest of the rod once the mg is fully covered and you should try to find very pure magnesium anode material, dont buy loose rods, he thinks the best are the ones they sell for anodes, they use those in the ground, they have a iron core which should be removed, seems to be very pure and perform real well, not easy to find... i found some of those here

Welcome to RotoMetals, Inc - Non Ferrous Metals and Custom Alloys Call Toll Free 1-800-779-1102...

i gues only time will tell if john is right, but so far ive had great results following instructions from him, both on the batteries and with the ssg monopole... cheers

[ibpointless2]

I really wish i could get a hold of the Bedini's alum crystal light kit for myself and test it. But at $200 is a little too much. If i had the cell i would perform the best test i could to confirm its legitimateness. If it was the real deal i would revolt what I've said about it but until then i must keep a open mind and consider my testing on cells like it. So far my testing for alum in water will corrode magnesium ribbon within 3 days.

[ibpointless2]

@ Ibpointless: I'm willing to take the bedini challenge. I think it's not Alum dissolve in water that will keep the Mag from corroding, but melted Alum to make a crystal and then add little bit of water to the crystal. That's it! I remain skeptical about the white stuff on the Mag being protective?? I will try and see! So simple but maybe misunderstood...

The bedini challenge? Very interesting.

So are you saying a alum crystal grown around a magnesium electrode? How will you measure deterioration? The white stuff on magnesium is not protective. I'm very interesting in how you'll perform this test. Let me know and I will also try it too in the way you described.

[CrystalDipoleMatrix]

@ Ibpointless: I'm willing to take the bedini challenge. I think it's not Alum dissolve in water that will keep the Mag from corroding, but melted Alum to make a crystal and then add little bit of water to the crystal. That's it! I remain skeptical about the white stuff on the Mag being protective?? I will try and see! So simple but maybe misunderstood...

[ibpointless2]

Hi all, this is a copy of the post i wrote last night at the energyscience forum:

"Hello all, i just bought the DVDs on crystal batteries by John B and Chuck, and decided to build the cells and the oscillators as close as i could. all i can say is... Mr. Bedini is right as usual... the alum batteries proved to be ahead of the game so far, and the simplest. these are putting off an awesome 1.9 volts each at around 90Ma shorted. the first pic shows 4 cells in series powering 3 of a very special kind o LED, these have a 360 degree light radiation and they use 3.6 Volts!!, these are 3 led, look how beautiful.... no problem reading with these on, apart from these 3 LEDs there's no other light in the room. the next pic shows 3 newer cells with a bigger copper cap, they are each running an independent sg oscillator described by Mr. Bedini in the dvd, I tried to build it as accurate as possible. they all have different coil sizes, the smallest one (about 25Ft 30AWG) is the faintest, the biggest one is middle bright and the middle size coil is the brightest... that's John's sugestion, about 45Ft. Mr Bedini you have a very grateful student here, thank you very much. i know you are giving what you can and it is a great basis to study the radiant energy... many blessings,

carlos"

also, although these are very new, i'm starting to see that layer of white corrosion building up on the Mg that you guys talk so much about. this seems to be very good for the cell, bedini says he has some of these over 2 years old and still run even better than new. he also says that putting them on the radiant oscillator (the sg) is also very beneficial for the cells. these are only alum powder with water, no more... as soon as you add other stuff the alum will react and sulfate the cell and corrode everywhere, this i've seen for myself on many cells running on mixes with alum in them, led me to think that alum was very corrosive... well it turns out it's not as long as it's on its own..... i still need to prove for myself all the claims that john makes, but i don't think he's gonna go to a big conference and sell dvds giving this information if theres not plenty of testing beforehand, and i know he's a rigorous tester... cheers all

carlos

Hi Carlos, I have done testing on cells that are just alum and distilled water and from what I've seen is that they corrode away magnesium ribbon. It took about 3 days for the magnesium to fall apart. The white corrosion is bad, its magnesium going into its salt form. Here is a video of the test i did. Alum and Water corrodes Magnesium ribbon - YouTube

[cgalvisardila]

Alum Batteries

Hi all, this is a copy of the post i wrote last night at the energyscience forum:

"Hello all, i just bought the DVDs on crystal batteries by John B and Chuck, and decided to build the cells and the oscillators as close as i could. all i can say is... Mr. Bedini is right as usual... the alum batteries proved to be ahead of the game so far, and the simplest. these are putting off an awesome 1.9 volts each at around 90Ma shorted. the first pic shows 4 cells in series powering 3 of a very special kind o LED, these have a 360 degree light radiation and they use 3.6 Volts!!, these are 3 led, look how beautiful.... no problem reading with these on, apart from these 3 LEDs there's no other light in the room. the next pic shows 3 newer cells with a bigger copper cap, they are each running an independent sg oscillator described by Mr. Bedini in the dvd, I tried to build it as accurate as possible. they all have different coil sizes, the smallest one (about 25Ft 30AWG) is the faintest, the biggest one is middle bright and the middle size coil is the brightest... that's John's sugestion, about 45Ft. Mr Bedini you have a very grateful student here, thank you very much. i know you are giving what you can and it is a great basis to study the radiant energy... many blessings,

carlos"

also, although these are very new, i'm starting to see that layer of white corrosion building up on the Mg that you guys talk so much about. this seems to be very good for the cell, bedini says he has some of these over 2 years old and still run even better than new. he also says that putting them on the radiant oscillator (the sg) is also very beneficial for the cells. these are only alum powder with water, no more... as soon as you add other stuff the alum will react and sulfate the cell and corrode everywhere, this i've seen for myself on many cells running on mixes with alum in them, led me to think that alum was very corrosive... well it turns out it's not as long as it's on its own..... i still need to prove for myself all the claims that john makes, but i don't think he's gonna go to a big conference and sell dvds giving this information if theres not plenty of testing beforehand, and i know he's a rigorous tester... cheers all

carlos

[plengo]

@Allwest,

yes I will turn on the CFL light I have right there over the cell.

@All,

Nitinol or Nickel Titanium- First Heat to Power Conversion Motor - YouTube

Fausto.