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  • griplets
    replied
    Originally posted by John_Bedini View Post
    @All,
    The Hydrate Sulphate mixture must equal copper
    John B
    Thank you John.

    Can you please explain what you mean by "The Hydrate Sulphate mixture must equal copper"?

    Do you mean equal to the copper by weight, volume...??? Equal in what way?

    Thank you,
    Alex.

    Leave a comment:


  • John_Bedini
    replied
    mixture must equal copper

    @All,
    Here is what I think as Chuck and I test the Hydrates, this cell is a 1 Ah cell and the hydrates do react with each other. We know from testing the Magnesium what we have bought. High energy Magnesium anode material 99.9 % . Here is what must be done The Hydrate Sulphate
    mixture must equal copper to not effect the magnesium. We have taken the cell apart and found the copper has been plated to with copper. If we run the 1Ah out of the cell the water disappears and the motor stops. Then Chuck adds water and the motor starts right back up.
    I have ordered some chemicals that I think will do it for instant power I'm trying to get over 2Ah's from this cell. I have seen a short burst at 2 amps. I have taken a time measurement of 3.2 hrs running the motor at 150 to 200 Ma before the water is gone. If I run the SG oscillator I do not have much of a time limit it could be two days at 10 to 30 Ma. Or until dry.
    This definitely is a fuel cell working here as the copper and the magnesium have not been eaten away so far. Chuck and I will get a weight on the Copper and Magnesium. This is a mind bending cell.
    John B

    Leave a comment:


  • NickZ
    replied
    Brad:
    Thanks for the info on the Mg. Who would of thought that it was that critical.
    Makes me think that the same thing may happen with copper, aluminum, and other metals that are less than 100 % pure. John had also mentioned several times about using only the best materials, to have long lasting cells.

    BTW: How have your cells that were sealed in resin doing, now after some months? I always admired your work, so nice and tidy.
    NickZ

    Leave a comment:


  • Michael Kishline
    replied
    @John & Chuck

    Simply BRILLIANT!

    Mike

    Leave a comment:


  • griplets
    replied
    Originally posted by b_rads View Post
    I highly suggest reading the following link for those attempting to insure that your magnesium electrode does not fall victim to corrosion in your crystal cells.

    http://www.corrosionist.com/Magnesium_Corrosion_Protection.html

    Excerpt from this link -


    To protect your mg you should really pay attention to the chromates. These are moderately strong oxidizing agents.

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chromate_and_dichromate
    Chromate conversion coating - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

    The question becomes, when trying to protect the Mg, are you inhibiting it's ability to produce usefulness.

    Brad S
    @Brad,

    Yes I saw those links the other day too... I think we can now all agree that the purity of the magnesium must be at least 99.9% to assist in the prevention of corrosion.

    @Chuck & John B.
    Great work! I cant wait to get all the details so I can test it too.

    Alex.

    Leave a comment:


  • NickZ
    replied
    Wow: John and Chuck, good going with that hydrate cell.
    I thought that I was hallucinating when I saw the meter going higher and higher, and the motor almost go flying off by itself.
    So, what's the secret? Just the same mix as before? Would sure be nice to know what's in that paste. Colgate with calcium, maybe? Ha,
    Thanks for sharing...
    NZ
    Last edited by NickZ; 03-09-2012, 02:42 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • chuck H
    replied
    Crystal cell paste

    This is a paste crystal cell. It is the same cell that was flooded a day earlier. We took the cell apart to inspect it and found that the Cu/Mg was fine and there was no pitting or degration of the Mg. So with that test done we took the same mix and made a paste and applied. The video shows the results. The motor used in the video is 1.5 volt and needs 200Ma to start it. I stated this was a .5 volt motor in the video I apologize for that.

    Crystal cell paste - YouTube

    Chuck H.

    Leave a comment:


  • bxcyted
    replied
    I've been searching for a source of high purity magnesium rods. rotometals offer 95.8% mg.
    High purity magnesium rods and pieces 99.95%

    Leave a comment:


  • b_rads
    replied
    Protect your magnesium

    I highly suggest reading the following link for those attempting to insure that your magnesium electrode does not fall victim to corrosion in your crystal cells.

    http://www.corrosionist.com/Magnesium_Corrosion_Protection.html

    Excerpt from this link -


    To protect your mg you should really pay attention to the chromates. These are moderately strong oxidizing agents.

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chromate_and_dichromate
    Chromate conversion coating - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

    The question becomes, when trying to protect the Mg, are you inhibiting it's ability to produce usefulness.

    Brad S
    Last edited by b_rads; 03-08-2012, 08:49 PM. Reason: added additional link

    Leave a comment:


  • jehdds
    replied
    Originally posted by plengo View Post
    Concerning the cell under water. This morning after 2 days they were running BUT the water is getting very conductive and it is shorting the cell.

    I removed one from the water and see if it destroyed the cell or not and It did not destroy it. It comes back to its 1.72v just fine and keeps going.

    So, this cell indeed loves water. IF one could make the water never becomes electric conductive it would definitely work as a fully hydrated cell.

    My cells with Iron Pyrite are working extremely well. Whenever place we have a good separation layer of Iron Pyrite from the electrolyte (in my case Carbon and Sand) it stops the corrosion.

    ANY other material touching the Magnesium corrodes the baby. Very interesting. Also the Iron Pyrite is not being consumed (at least visually). I do smell some strange smell on this cells and it is not ammonia.

    Fausto.
    Fausto,
    I have an idea. I have some material called fluroinert from 3M.
    Perhaps all that needs to be hydrated is the electrolyte layer and then the entire assembly could be immersed in the Flurocarbon liquid that is NON polar NON Miscible with water......... just thinking............ The key is to have the hydrate SO bound with water the flurocarbon does not displace the water or be able to evaporate.
    Maybe it would work. Worth trying. I may even give it a go with acetone filled electrolyte and then immerse that...... At least the double bond oxygen would be less likely to disassociate. Ok maybe it is time to create a new thread......... Submersed Crystaline Electrolyte Batteries........

    Very Best Regards,
    Jim

    Leave a comment:


  • Michael Kishline
    replied
    NiFe Crystal Cell

    Originally posted by John_Bedini View Post
    @ All,
    The problem is the magnesium and it must be neutralized so it is not attacked and eaten away. Adding table salt is a killer for most metals so that is not going to work, just for a small amount of time. Maybe the answer is in the stars, burned out, that metal known as meteorites.

    Chuck means Delrin ring
    John B
    John, that makes a lot of sense. Meteorites are composed mostly Nickle Iron, and in a natural crystal matrix, unrefined.

    NiFe Edison Battery Cell, one of the most successful batteries to date.

    Question: What are you thinking in terms of the "electrolyte crystals paste, or liquid?"

    Fine work John
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • ibpointless2
    replied
    In this proof of concept video I show that even though you have low amps you can still find a way to power a LED just fine by adjusting the time variable. These crystal glue cells in the video give only a few micro-amps but they give me plenty of voltage and I use that to my advantage. Since you only need 3 volts to power a LED I put 3 crystal glue cells in series to give me over 3 volts. I have the cells charge up a capacitor and since the capacitor has a low internal resistance I can discharge it quickly into a LED and thus lighting the LED. If i do this quick enough with a small enough farad capacitor I can have the LED blink faster than the eye can picks up just like how a joule thief does so it seems like the LED is on all the time. This video was just a concept of the idea, all opinions are welcomed.

    Concept for powering a LED with a Low amp dry Crystal cell - YouTube

    Leave a comment:


  • plengo
    replied
    If I remember the smell of sulfur I would agree. It is like a very weak sulfuric acid smell.

    Fausto.

    Leave a comment:


  • CrystalDipoleMatrix
    replied
    Last edited by CrystalDipoleMatrix; 03-08-2012, 03:16 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • ibpointless2
    replied
    Originally posted by plengo View Post
    Concerning the cell under water. This morning after 2 days they were running BUT the water is getting very conductive and it is shorting the cell.

    I removed one from the water and see if it destroyed the cell or not and It did not destroy it. It comes back to its 1.72v just fine and keeps going.

    So, this cell indeed loves water. IF one could make the water never becomes electric conductive it would definitely work as a fully hydrated cell.

    My cells with Iron Pyrite are working extremely well. Whenever place we have a good separation layer of Iron Pyrite from the electrolyte (in my case Carbon and Sand) it stops the corrosion.

    ANY other material touching the Magnesium corrodes the baby. Very interesting. Also the Iron Pyrite is not being consumed (at least visually). I do smell some strange smell on this cells and it is not ammonia.

    Fausto.
    How would you describe the smell?

    Leave a comment:

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