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  • plengo
    replied
    Originally posted by griplets View Post
    Fausto,

    Do you heat your copper to form the oxide layer?

    Thanks,
    Alex.
    On the last video, no.

    Fausto.

    Leave a comment:


  • plengo
    replied
    Originally posted by Michael Kishline View Post
    Fausto great video, I didn't understand the "pun intended" until I watched the video. It really does work under water!

    Question #1: Would you mind posting Volts and Amps on the different cells, thanks.

    Question#2: Would you please give us an update from time to time on how long they last under water?

    Thanks Mike
    All these cells are presenting the same voltage and amperage at first but yes I will post some of the data I have.

    I will keep you posted of the status of the underwater battery.

    Fausto.

    Leave a comment:


  • griplets
    replied
    Copper Oxide Layer

    Originally posted by plengo View Post
    I think I have my first true water battery (pun intended):

    Crystal Cell 25 - YouTube

    Fausto.
    Fausto,

    Do you heat your copper to form the oxide layer?

    Thanks,
    Alex.

    Leave a comment:


  • griplets
    replied
    Surface coating copper

    Originally posted by John_Bedini View Post
    Alex,
    I heated it at 1500 degrees in the kiln but I see no reason that you can not do that, I never tried that but why not.
    John B
    Thank you John,

    I'm not sure how to coat the surface of the copper with cupric oxide (CuO) and iron pyrite powder.... without heating and fusing... any ideas?... anyone?

    Alex.

    Leave a comment:


  • Michael Kishline
    replied
    Originally posted by plengo View Post
    I think I have my first true water battery (pun intended):

    Crystal Cell 25 - YouTube

    Fausto.
    Fausto great video, I didn't understand the "pun intended" until I watched the video. It really does work under water!

    Question #1: Would you mind posting Volts and Amps on the different cells, thanks.

    Question#2: Would you please give us an update from time to time on how long they last under water?

    Thanks Mike

    Leave a comment:


  • plengo
    replied
    I think I have my first true water battery (pun intended):

    Crystal Cell 25 - YouTube

    Fausto.

    Leave a comment:


  • John_Bedini
    replied
    I heated it at 1500 degrees

    Alex,
    I heated it at 1500 degrees in the kiln but I see no reason that you can not do that, I never tried that but why not.
    John B

    Leave a comment:


  • griplets
    replied
    John Bedini

    John Bedini,

    Sorry to bother you but could you please reply to my post above regarding the oxide layer on the copper?

    Is it possible to apply an oxide layer to the copper rather than heat it? If so how? if no why not?

    Thank you.
    Alex.

    Leave a comment:


  • NickZ
    replied
    Yes, John that sounds like the thing that I should do. Just a matter of getting the right aquarium charcoal, and Epsom, and seeing about getting some magnesium and copper too. I will look for the copper tubes, that can be cut to size, and copper oxide treated. I like the idea that the water can be used at first to lock up the salts into the carbon, then maybe not used again.
    Hope that your hydrate cells hold up, let us know how it goes. The charging of the regular batteries with your cells sounds like the way to go.
    Some interesting things may happen...

    Leave a comment:


  • John_Bedini
    replied
    cell are still running strong

    NickZ,
    Those cell are still running strong they have charged 1500 NiCad batteries three times now.
    The tube cells keep going also, The ones I want Lidmotor to test are almost dry to where they can be shipped. The answer is water and how you lock it up, Hydrates do that. If you would mix a hydrate with the crushed carbon that would lock up the water. Just my opinion here, trying to help.
    John B

    Leave a comment:


  • NickZ
    replied
    John B:
    Yes, it's looking like you are right about locking up the water.
    The infrared, or exothermic, cells may be worth a try. I still have hopes on your semiconductor layer idea, to increase the nominal electronegative difference output to something more inline with our needs, as well as to protect the metals.
    Although I can get any voltage up to 12 volts or more from my dry cells, it seams like dry cells will only output micro-amps, if not watered regularly.
    The hydrate cells that you have that are sealed in the plastic boxes, how are they holding up?
    Any luck with the BwJt?
    Nick

    Leave a comment:


  • Herbie687
    replied
    Thank you.

    Originally posted by plengo View Post
    if you want to thrust someone here are two:



    Panacea University - Home

    Fausto.
    -Fausto
    I have read alot of stuff on Free-Energy-Info.com, and I've seen Panacea-BOCAF's Suppression Documentary. Though I never knew Panacea provided instruction to replicate stuff. Thanks for letting me know.

    Leave a comment:


  • John_Bedini
    replied
    Water

    NickZ,
    That is what I have been saying all along that you must lock up the water. However we have not touched on the subject of the exothermic reaction in the cells. which could be rendering
    the cells neutral until water is added.
    John B

    Leave a comment:


  • mk1
    replied
    I would not take Dr. Greer as a friend , most people that had dealing with him have a different view of the man and in some cases silenced , lets assume his color is grey , but god news the white hat club are busy these days, made big arrest in the last week , big name so big they are not mentioned anywhere , As mister Jones we will only know for sure at the end , it may be hard to believe but the cabal as his word in say in internet at a lesser extent then mass media .

    CBS is on the right side now ...

    Leave a comment:


  • NickZ
    replied
    Guys:
    A few facts about bismuth. It's also radioactive, and diamagnetic.
    Bismuth

    Reminds me of a video I saw on youtube a couple of years ago, about a guy that had a passive generator made in a small attache case. It used several layers of bismuth and a couple of other metals plates layered together, and then connected to a couple of transformers, and capacitors. He was able to light a regular 25 watt bulb with the device.

    Leave a comment:

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