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  • NickZ
    replied
    John & Chuck:
    Thanks for the info.
    Too bad it died. Maybe what keeps the BwJt working properly is the higher perm ferrite cores. Without enough BEMF from the coils feeding back to the input source, the battery or cell will eventually discharge. Once the battery runs down a bit, the circuit frequency changes, and the resonant sweet spot that makes up for the loses may be lost. That's why I thought that a steady unchanging input is important, such as what can be obtained from the cells, if they will hold at a steady output like your hydrate cells can produce.
    I never knew how Robbie got the results that he mentioned in his videos.
    But, that certainly doesn't mean that its not possible.
    I also have been playing around with different transformers, and was thinking to ask you which types you think may be the best.
    Anyways guys, good luck with the test, and thanks again for posting your results.
    Nick
    Last edited by NickZ; 03-03-2012, 05:25 AM.

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  • chuck H
    replied
    Bjt

    Originally posted by John_Bedini View Post
    NickZ,
    I thought I would give you a report on the BJT circuit, it died today. The battery ended up at .5 volts and will not light the Led's any more. The circuit did run continuous for 3 days straight then the battery has gone down hill. I would have posted it except it did not keep going. I will try another transformer arrangement in the next couple of days.
    John
    @Nickz and all: John is correct as I seen this test myself. The voltage held for 2days then the LEDs and voltage dropped to the point that there was no useful output at day 3.

    chuck H
    Last edited by chuck H; 03-03-2012, 05:04 AM. Reason: spplellnnn

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  • John_Bedini
    replied
    BJT circuit

    NickZ,
    I thought I would give you a report on the BJT circuit, it died today. The battery ended up at .5 volts and will not light the Led's any more. The circuit did run continuous for 3 days straight then the battery has gone down hill. I would have posted it except it did not keep going. I will try another transformer arrangement in the next couple of days.
    John

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  • John_Bedini
    replied
    few questions

    Ibpointless2 I have a few questions.
    Is this the correct voltage of the Cell 2 volts each time you put the ore in the water?
    Is the current as you say in the video, and can you get more?

    The circuit you have put up needs at least 10 to 20 Ma to run and have you tested that with a 1.2 volt battery?

    Your going to call that a component why since it is a cell or a battery small but it is.
    John

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  • Herbie687
    replied
    Originally posted by Neight View Post
    No Problem, happy to help where I can
    You hit the nail on the head I think, it never occured to me to set the meter on ACV, as I almost never have to use that setting....
    it shows the same AC reading as it was a -DC reading, only no negative.

    I will have to stop in @ HF, and check out their meters, at $4 I could get a few. And yes, reading that analog meter can be a pain at times, but it also seems to be one of my most reliable meters right now.
    thanks for the tip

    N8
    You're definetly welecome N8.
    Also an important note: The AC Volt meter measures in RMS.

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  • ibpointless2
    replied
    I've been thinking very hard on how to make a low amp cell useful and I think I may have a idea. We keep seeing these cells as batteries but they don't give much amps at all so we must stop looking at them as batteries but instead look at them as components. I'll include a picture below of a rough draft of a idea I have to use low power crystal cells as components.

    You have C2 fully charged (1.5V) and powering the circuit. The circuit powers a LED and then it dumps it into C3. The crystal cell is in parallel with C3 and it helps to charge C3 too, the crystal cell puts back in the energy that was lost do to heat from the circuit. The Crystal cell "picks up the slack" and thus puts a higher charge into C3. C3 can now be swapped with C2 so that you can repeat the process. The LED will run for a long time if you swap the capacitors over, the Crystal cell will put the energy in that is loss do to the natural loss of circuits.

    This is just a rough idea. There is no guarantee this will work.

    Click image for larger version

Name:	Blocking Crystal Cell Charger light.JPG
Views:	1
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ID:	453110

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  • ibpointless2
    replied
    Originally posted by Herbie687 View Post
    I checked on the steel this morning at school. It did form a rust powder on top that went right back into the water as I pulled them out. So I'm trying again by letting them sit on water soaked paper towels. Hopefully they rust up well over the weekend.
    *Will a conductive epoxy become a electrolyte if i use it with pure rust powder? I'm thinking of doing that as well.
    Try putting the steel in liquid clothes detergent instead of water.

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  • ibpointless2
    replied
    Originally posted by shawnnweed View Post
    Which brings about a question. Do you suppose that it might be the shape of the rock, in certain areas that causes an increase. Or do you think it might just be a greater composition of certain metals or maybe a natural pathway of metals or combination of metals causing the increase in given points. Or maybe I'm just overanalyzing it.
    Its hard to say if its shape or not, but when I did rotate the rock west I got more amps than in any other position. Every rock is a little different in shape so its hard to judge them.

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  • ibpointless2
    replied
    Originally posted by cgalvisardila View Post
    IB, i'm thinking that being the hematite a good pair electrode to the copper we can still use it (as i understand, its the best combination you've made, hematite-copper since it gave you over 2V, right?) since we already have a good way of turning the copper to a semiconductor which will not corrode, (heat it up several times until it turns dark), this creates an oxide layer that is very successful, no drop in voltage or current... i always do this now, and since i've never had any more problems with the copper corroding of sulfating... give it a try, is the first thing ill do as soon as my hematites get here... cheers
    It was hematite and magnesium that gave me 2 volts. Hematite and copper give half a volt, which is not that bad.

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  • shawnnweed
    replied
    Originally posted by ibpointless2 View Post
    The amp reading on a cell with a Hematite electrode. Amp reading on Hematite Rock Electrode - YouTube


    different spots on the rock and different hematite rocks give different kinds of amp readings. You must find the sweet spot on the rock just like you would with a crystal detector on a crystal radio. Also what Electrodes you use with the rock also will affect the reading and how big it is too. In the video I used tap water and small aluminum wire.
    Which brings about a question. Do you suppose that it might be the shape of the rock, in certain areas that causes an increase. Or do you think it might just be a greater composition of certain metals or maybe a natural pathway of metals or combination of metals causing the increase in given points. Or maybe I'm just overanalyzing it.

    Leave a comment:


  • cgalvisardila
    replied
    IB, i'm thinking that being the hematite a good pair electrode to the copper we can still use it (as i understand, its the best combination you've made, hematite-copper since it gave you over 2V, right?) since we already have a good way of turning the copper to a semiconductor which will not corrode, (heat it up several times until it turns dark), this creates an oxide layer that is very successful, no drop in voltage or current... i always do this now, and since i've never had any more problems with the copper corroding of sulfating... give it a try, is the first thing ill do as soon as my hematites get here... cheers

    Leave a comment:


  • Neight
    replied
    Originally posted by Herbie687 View Post
    Nice man... that's awesome.
    The fact that they're both crystal are negative is strange. I thinking that it may be producing AC in that instance, or the water on the test lead maybe was interfering.
    I need to search for quartz and scope it sometime.
    Also, if you want more DMM's that are cheap, you can get $4 DMM's at Habor Frieght Tools. They're just as good as the one's at radioshack. (Although the leads that come with it are a different story.) Those analog meters are annoying to read, and I'm thinking you might feel the same as well.
    for posting.
    No Problem, happy to help where I can
    You hit the nail on the head I think, it never occured to me to set the meter on ACV, as I almost never have to use that setting....
    it shows the same AC reading as it was a -DC reading, only no negative.

    I will have to stop in @ HF, and check out their meters, at $4 I could get a few. And yes, reading that analog meter can be a pain at times, but it also seems to be one of my most reliable meters right now.
    thanks for the tip

    N8

    Leave a comment:


  • Herbie687
    replied
    Originally posted by Neight View Post
    I finally got a video uploaded, and for some reason it cut off the first minute. I really had a terrible time with getting this video from the camera to youtube, which is what caused most of the delay.
    It did manage to leave in all the important bits, and I run the same test with several different combinations of things, and I start out with just the copper and iron pyrite isolated from each other. I show the voltage and the amp reading from those two, then show several other combinations.

    here is the link -
    Crystal Voltage - YouTube

    if anyone has any suggestions, or anything they would like to see me try, I am more than happy to film more tests on request

    N8
    Nice man... that's awesome.
    The fact that they're both crystal are negative is strange. I'm thinking that it may be producing AC in that instance, or the water on the test lead maybe was interfering.
    I need to search for quartz and scope it sometime.
    Also, if you want more DMM's that are cheap, you can get $4 DMM's at Habor Frieght Tools. They're just as good as the one's at radioshack. (Although the leads that come with it are a different story.) Those analog meters are annoying to read, and I'm thinking you might feel the same as well.
    for posting.
    Last edited by Herbie687; 03-02-2012, 11:11 PM. Reason: Grammar

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  • Herbie687
    replied
    You're right...

    Originally posted by ibpointless2 View Post
    If you use rust from steel than you going to have red dust that falls off into the water solution. Even though rust is iron-oxide and so is hematite I don't think you can compare them that easy. Hematite is mostly a giant glob of iron-oxide compressed from pressures from earth and the environment. If you can make rust and compress it into a solid object and it works than that's great! Or coat the rust onto something that's not steel/iron than that will work too. Only way to find out is to do it. Nothing ventured is nothing gained.
    I checked on the steel this morning at school. It did form a rust powder on top that went right back into the water as I pulled them out. So I'm trying again by letting them sit on water soaked paper towels. Hopefully they rust up well over the weekend.
    *Will a conductive epoxy become a electrolyte if i use it with pure rust powder? I'm thinking of doing that as well.

    Leave a comment:


  • jehdds
    replied
    Originally posted by b_rads;182684
    "IB: Could your discovery lead to a fossil fuel crystal battery?[/COLOR
    Golly don't mention the words fossil fuel.
    Next thing you know there will be a shortage and Hemitite will be $110.00 per ounce!
    Jim

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