Bedini Earth Light

[Allwest]

I just checked two of my zinc/aluminum alloy cells. Both are at about 3/4 of a volt. The welding rod one shows 35 mA dead shorted and the larger one that is using the chunk of alloy shows 75mA. The small one needs to be watered when it dries out but the one in the plastic box has enough water so it just keep going.

@Plengo
That self watering cell I made that is your copper cap with the Mg inside really worked out well. It has been months now running one of my Penny oscillators.

@NickZ
I was reading up on sacrificial anodes and one of the articles talked about what you were suggesting. If you use two sacrificial metals the less noble one will go first until it is gone and then the second one starts going. It is an idea worth looking into.

@All
I built a 4 cell battery today using magnesium anodes just to see if I could get my Super Joule Ringer 2.0 to run on it . It did.

Homemade battery for Super Joule Ringer 2.0 - YouTube


Lidmotor

Lidmotor,

What kind of power do you need from the power cells, to run the Super Joule Ringer 2.0 light to full brightness ?

Best of luck

[Lidmotor]

Lidmotor,

What kind of power where you getting?

Best of luck

I just checked two of my zinc/aluminum alloy cells. Both are at about 3/4 of a volt. The welding rod one shows 35 mA dead shorted and the larger one that is using the chunk of alloy shows 75mA. The small one needs to be watered when it dries out but the one in the plastic box has enough water so it just keep going.

@Plengo
That self watering cell I made that is your copper cap with the Mg inside really worked out well. It has been months now running one of my Penny oscillators.

@NickZ
I was reading up on sacrificial anodes and one of the articles talked about what you were suggesting. If you use two sacrificial metals the less noble one will go first until it is gone and then the second one starts going. It is an idea worth looking into.

@All
I built a 4 cell battery today using magnesium anodes just to see if I could get my Super Joule Ringer 2.0 to run on it . It did.

Homemade battery for Super Joule Ringer 2.0 - YouTube


Lidmotor

[Allwest]

@All
Here is quick video of the cell I made using a 4oz piece of Al/Zn anode metal I got on Ebay. I am having more luck with this than with the Alumiweld rod. I took this cell apart today and looked closely at the anode metal. It has formed that black coating on it but it still seems to be working. There appears to be no deterioration of the anode metal so far. Keep your fingers crossed.

Zinc and Aluminum alloy anode cell running pulse motor and Exciter. - YouTube

@NickZ
Yes the zinc boat anodes work but they seem to stop when that black coating forms. This zinc/aluminum alloy may solve that problem. We will see.

@ Slider
BIGGER PANS! BIGGER PANS!!!. -----bigger is better.

Lidmotor

Lidmotor,

What kind of power where you getting?

Best of luck

[NickZ]

@ Lidmotor and All:
I was thinking more along the lines of placing a piece of Zinc metal on the outside of the cells (or inside), not to be used as an electrode, but to deter the oxidation on the rest of the metals on the cells. As that zinc metal can even be placed in the cell, like sticking a galvanized nail into the charcoal, zinc will wear away more quickly, and avoid the aluminum or Mg breaking down as fast. It would serve the purpose of the "sacrificial metal" that can be replaced when eaten away, like the Mg rods in the hot water heaters.

Carbon/graphite rods will work better than the copper wire, when using the activated charcoal, and will not contaminate like the copper will, that will also form the "black coating" that does not conduct very well.
As graphite or carbon rods don't reacts with the salt water or the vineger, but can plug up from excess salts, over a period of time.
Also try the sand, washed/or not, in with the charcoal, even beach sand works for me, and already comes with some natural sea salt in it. Other non sodium salts work better, at least don't oxidize the metals as fast. and produce more juice. Like Lasersaber's 2 Amp cells, but placed in the oil bath, so they'll last? I hope.
If we can find something like the Super Glue that can be painted onto the metals to help seal and protect them, similar to how the grease can help to slow down oxidation, then we may be able to hold off the rust, also.
And IF the paint, or layer conducts IONs, but not electrons, it would work even better yet. As it's really the the galvanic flow of electrons that are giving us the contamination, as well as the metal break-down problems.

It's possible that IONs, and Photons, are one and the same thing. And may be the real reason why the Exciter circuits can produce light with practically no current. Or, what is called WATTLESS CURRENT. As Ions are the "activation current" that produces the wattless current.
At least, that is what I think, and am working on now.

[Slider2732]

@Lidmotor Yes indeed, if only the world used 4ft cooking pans i'd have a decent sized Positive electrode

Nice neat vid there...hope it runs well and keeps the current !
I wonder if the reactions are affected the same with constant use or with only periodic use.

[Lidmotor]

Quick 1min. update vid ---bigger is better

@All
Here is quick video of the cell I made using a 4oz piece of Al/Zn anode metal I got on Ebay. I am having more luck with this than with the Alumiweld rod. I took this cell apart today and looked closely at the anode metal. It has formed that black coating on it but it still seems to be working. There appears to be no deterioration of the anode metal so far. Keep your fingers crossed.

Zinc and Aluminum alloy anode cell running pulse motor and Exciter. - YouTube

@NickZ
Yes the zinc boat anodes work but they seem to stop when that black coating forms. This zinc/aluminum alloy may solve that problem. We will see.

@ Slider
BIGGER PANS! BIGGER PANS!!!. -----bigger is better.

Lidmotor

[Slider2732]

@Nick - Thanks, yes. I think i'll have to use oscillators for le project grande.

@All - to explain, i'm building a much larger version of the single positive node outdoor idea.
2 copper kitchen scourer pads are my Positive in the Earth (got no copper rods), at a depth of 1ft at the moment and with copper wire to the top that came from a length of coax cable. Around and in a circle, are 25 fence pieces, straightened and of 1ft length each.
Summing the outputs has been where i've been stuck at...the wish not to use oscillators. At present, there are 4 LED's flashing away outside, connected to respective 4 pieces of fence and proving out the single node concept, which also reduces any final system cost.
The oscillators will oscillate if given any load ('Penny' type), they need not have an LED in series. Output to a cap as that load is about the most useful up to now.
The individual lines from the fence pieces and middle copper will run to the house (only a few feet to limit line loss) and to a summing circuit in our utility room.
I'm going for a 2W LOA LED on an inverter as the project aim, however many pieces of fence are needed.


Update - I shot a brief piece of video just now, to show these 4 oscillators flashing away. Thinking about it, such a system would be good anyway to indicate a route down a path or something in the dark. No solar or batteries needed and it hasn't rained here for quite a few days.

4 Osc running - YouTube

[NickZ]

@ Slider:
I answered your PM. Please let me know if you didn't get it, as there is no record or proof of my having sent it.

@ Lidmotor:
Thanks for the reply on the welding rods.
I'm sure that you've seen how marine outboards motors use replaceable zinc pads mounted on the bottoms of the motors, to help avoid the galvanic break-down of the other more expensive motor parts. Zinc is the sacrificial metal used, as it will get consumed more quickly than any other metal, thus avoiding having to replace more expensive machined motor parts.
Maybe the same idea can be used on these cells, and a small and inexpensive zinc metal pad can be used, that can also be easily replaced as they wears out.
If we can't avoid the galvanic reaction, at least there may be some things that can be done to slow it way down. Iron pyrite may also be one of them.

NickZ

[Allwest]

To all,

This may be common knowledge to this board, but I thought I would mention it

When using a liquid cell such as Chemalloy and carbon, or chemalloy and copper, add additional copper in the water and watch the amps go up, add more and watch it go up more, it does not do anything for the voltage just the amps

Regarding chemalloy

Last weekend I bought some Aluminum welding rod, with flux on the outside of the rod
I wrapped copper wire around the flux and stuck in a bath of salts,I think it read about .56 volts and 5 ma

Today I checked it and it read .45 volts & 2.5 Ma, the aluminum has very little pits, not many, still very shinny

I added hydrogen peroxide tonight and it read .68 volts and 40Ma ..........and it is going up 15 min latter .75 volts 60Ma

This is a very small rod 1/8" and it is only about 2"s long

Can someone else verify the hydrogen peroxide results in these cells?

Also, I forgot to mention with this 1/8" rod wrapped in copper wire, I add a 1" copper coupling in the bath connected to copper wire, otherwise it would be 1/4 of the power


B-rad,
You where asking for power storage devices
I ran across a company with mechanical devices for storage, for supplementing the grid when it was down

Basically it is a big spring that gets wound up from the grid power and waits until it is needed, kinda like a toy car

I can see many uses for this, including gathering power for the house on off hours, and running the spring during peek hours, to cut your electricity bill

Also your car could drive into the garage and compress some springs for lights in your garage , and other

You can gear ratio the release of the spring to have long lasting power, and or hook to a light switch when you need power


Just some thoughts, and best of luck to all

[plengo]

@Sawt2:
That is a great question. The reason I chose to use the activated carbon is two-fold.


Using white vinegar or ammonia changes the PH of the electrolyte and attempts to work as a depolarizer, reducing some of the gasses on the electrodes.


As an example - 1 volt at 50 mA = 0.05 watts. 0.5 volts at 100 mA = 0.05 watts. So if my theory is correct: 1 volt at 100 mA = 0.1 watts. I do not think this is linear as described in this example, but does describe what I think might be happening.

What I have described about the carbon is classic for redox primary cells. The mission before us is to prove whether or not this is a classic redox cell.

Thanks again for the excellent question Brian.

Brad S

Put sand on it and it will mix and work with your activated carbon really well.

Fausto.

[Lidmotor]

Classic redox cell --or not???

@Brad
Your basic question of whether or not the Alumiweld (or Chemalloy) cell is a classic redox cell is rather important. I had a terrible day yesterday experimenting with the Alumiweld rod cells. All I am seeing is a "classic" chemical reaction. I hope that you and Sawt2 have much better luck than I am having. What I am seeing with the Alumiweld cell is far inferior to some of the other cells that we have built here on this thread. I will keep working with this today and see if my luck turns around.

@Sawt2
The Slayer Exciter circuit by GBluer is a great simple "exciter" circuit. Go to the "Joule Thief and Exciter Variants" thread here to read the loooonng tale. At about post # 204 @2/5/10-- Slayer (GBluer) posted the first diagram of the circuit. You can lose the variable cap and 1M resistor to the neg. rail and the circuit runs. Replace the 1k resistor with a 10k pot for tuning. There are many variations of the basic circuit. In my video I am using a 1000uh choke with 6 turns of 26ga magnet wire for the primary. Slayer's (GBluer on Youtube) has a video called "Worlds Smallest Exciter" that shows a choke being used for the coils.

Everybody should remember that the "exciter" research done here started with Dr. Stiffler's SEC Exciter work and his thread called: "High voltage from thin air". There was much discussion on this subject also over at the OU forum. Dr. Stiffler has retired (I think) and has left behind many ideas to study and fun projects to build.

@ Allwest
All my Stubblefield coils are basically "neutralized". The chemical reaction between the galvanized wire and the copper wire ran it's course and the coils simply went dead like any redox cell. I never burried one in the ground to see if it would run longer. I checked my big one today just for fun to see if there was any power left (it has been bone dry for many many months) and to my surprise there was still .024 volts with 10 micro amps still on it. So maybe there is something to it. I don't know.

@ ionfuture
I really enjoyed that video on the liquid metal battery. It was 15 minutes well spent. I'll never be able to build one of those on my kitchen table but the video was inspiring.


----Lidmotor

[ionfuture]

cerium part 2

If anyone is interested seeing a video about the Cerium metal as a shark repellent battery here is the Nova show.

NOVA | Hunting the Elements

The show is called Hunting the Elements. While I think the entire show is interesting (about 2 hours ) you can skip ahead to chapter 10 about shark testing of the cerium.

Regards
Randy

[b_rads]

Good Question

B_rads
Very nice, those lights look nice and bright, it will be interesting to see how it does over time.
Help me understand something, maybe I missed it in a previous post, what does the charcoal do?
Brian

@Sawt2:
That is a great question. The reason I chose to use the activated carbon is two-fold.


Using white vinegar or ammonia changes the PH of the electrolyte and attempts to work as a depolarizer, reducing some of the gasses on the electrodes.


As an example - 1 volt at 50 mA = 0.05 watts. 0.5 volts at 100 mA = 0.05 watts. So if my theory is correct: 1 volt at 100 mA = 0.1 watts. I do not think this is linear as described in this example, but does describe what I think might be happening.

What I have described about the carbon is classic for redox primary cells. The mission before us is to prove whether or not this is a classic redox cell.

Thanks again for the excellent question Brian.

Brad S

[ionfuture]

Electropositive shark repellent - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia



Shark Repellent Disk Emits Electric Volts : Discovery News

Sharks Repelled by Metal That Creates Electric Field

Regards
Randy

[Allwest]

That is an interesting find.
the additional energy is great, I would be curious to see if it harms the metals in any way. Peroxide is an oxidizer. I might build a couple more cells and just try it.
Brian

Just so you know what to expect with hydrogen peroxide

It will go up to 800+ Ma for a short time (10 min or so) then decline to about 500 within a half hour, then 250 for 2 hours, then 150 for 2 to 4 hours, after this it stays at about 70Ma for a long time 4 to 5 days

Keep in mind it produces hydrogen BIG TIME, you can light the top of the water cell and have fire crackers, and have a very bright LED

Now all we need to do is find out how to keep H.P. from decomposing in the water,
Best of luck and be safe