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  • NickZ
    replied
    I'm thinking of pulling them out of my bikes Al frame weldings, but I'll wait until we hear about how it went with the pots and pan welds, first.

    Alpaca is another alloy, as it's called here, used by craftspeople to make their wares, similar somewhat to silver, but much cheaper, and it comes in wire of different thickness, and other sizes, and dimensions. I know that it does not easily rust, and may be very rust and salts resistant, and long lasting. It's cheap and can even be replaceable electrode. Probably all depends what medium it's going to be put it.
    But, it looks like the activated carbon, and Mg, or Al, work well, and produces some juice.
    Aluminum has less voltage output, but it may outlast Mg, and it's easy to get and cheap to use. The trick now is seeing what lasts longer, and if it can be easily replaced when it wears out.

    Leave a comment:


  • Slider2732
    replied
    I think that if it does run the Joule Ringer you could do worse than buying a different kind of 6 pack !
    200mA of Brads, 100mA of yours - great

    An inevitable question perhaps - is there anything commonly found in garden implements or around the house that may use such a Zn/Al alloy ?
    I'm thinking of cutting out the weldings of old pots and pans...or something.

    Leave a comment:


  • Lidmotor
    replied
    Replication time.

    Originally posted by b_rads View Post
    @all:
    Here is my replication of the chemalloy battery.

    Chamalloy Battery 1st Attempt



    Enjoy, Brad S
    OK Brad I was inspired by your video so I built a similar cell today and the results were close to yours.
    I could not get any of the special Chemalloy welding rod but I did get a piece of ZA (zinc / aluminum alloy) off ebay that seems to work quite well. This week I will try again to get the real stuff. I used the activated charcoal and the same electrolyte (water, sea salt, and vinegar) that you used. My power output was similar to yours (about a volt and over 100mA) but as always the question will be ---For how long??? Right now I have tried this cell on most of my AA battery "toys" and it will run most of them. This is probably just another simple galvanic but if it will keep putting out more power and for longer than the others we have built ----who cares. If I can put a bunch of these together and get it to run my new Joule Ringer 2.0 that would be great. I would need at least a six pack. Maybe a 12 pack.

    Lidmotor
    Last edited by Lidmotor; 06-10-2012, 08:07 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • Allwest
    replied
    Brad S

    Very nice presentation, thank you

    Best of luck

    Leave a comment:


  • b_rads
    replied
    Chemalloy Battery

    @all:
    Here is my replication of the chemalloy battery.

    Chamalloy Battery 1st Attempt



    Enjoy, Brad S

    Leave a comment:


  • Allwest
    replied
    Here is an interesting crystal salt

    Magnetic Salt - Dysprosium Nitrate
    Magnetic Salt - Dysprosium Nitrate - YouTube

    Leave a comment:


  • cgalvisardila
    replied
    Originally posted by plengo View Post
    I noticed something on my cells. I have been testing the same formula (Mg, sand, carbon, alum) with different quantities of alum. More alum in seems better. Now, i also have been adding water with and without almun.

    What is very interesting is that the cells that i add more water with alum, after the cell diminish substantially its output power, is that alum will block all the inner micro-tubes formed that conducts the water and crystilize from within and break the cell and destroy it.

    The cell even grows in size to the point of cracking the surrouding shell.

    The cell when first made goes through a formation of its internal water conducts that allows the water to be decomposed in its parts while generating energy. It is necessary to let the cell to dry in its first months while running a load. After that first dry you can only add clean water, otherwise the cell will die.
    fausto, thanks for this post, i have observed the same thing about letting the cell dry, consider this observation replicated and confirmed, good job.... what would you say is the right amount of alum in proportion to the other ingredients?

    cheers

    ib pointless and nick, guys this is not a boxing ring, please, patience my dear friends... i think both approaches have validity, and i myself am pointing to the dry cell, definitely its harder to get, but bear in mind, the solar cell is precisely that, a dry cell, or even, a radiant cell that only captures and converts visible light, or heat, its main ingredient is selenium (which captures and directly converts heat into electricity)... i guess the next step is to come up with a cell that captures and converts more of the radiant spectrum, such as UV, gamma, microwaves, and radio waves, even ether, which are radiating into our planet at all times, they penetrate clouds and are present at night. materials such as bismuth, galena (wich is known to capture radio waves), and magnetite could be used to capture these radiant waves... cheers, don't give up, i'm sure that those micro amps can be stepped up with the proper research and experimentation.

    carlos
    Last edited by cgalvisardila; 06-09-2012, 08:25 PM.

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  • NickZ
    replied
    Thank you Fausto. Well taken, and noted.
    I also have noticed that adding any kind of salts to the additional waterings would tend to be detrimental to my cells, after a while. So, now I'm using plain rain water, or tap water which has a little chloride, as it comes from the public water system. This seams to work ok. But, now after your comment, I'll only use just rain water, instead, as it rains almost every afternoon here now, and so is easy to obtain.
    Have you had a chance to take some of the cells apart yet, for inspection that were treated with the permatex grease?

    NickZ

    Leave a comment:


  • plengo
    replied
    I noticed something on my cells. I have been testing the same formula (Mg, sand, carbon, alum) with different quantities of alum. More alum in seems better. Now, i also have been adding water with and without almun.

    What is very interesting is that the cells that i add more water with alum, after the cell diminish substantially its output power, is that alum will block all the inner micro-tubes formed that conducts the water and crystilize from within and break the cell and destroy it.

    The cell even grows in size to the point of cracking the surrouding shell.

    The cell when first made goes through a formation of its internal water conducts that allows the water to be decomposed in its parts while generating energy. It is necessary to let the cell to dry in its first months while running a load. After that first dry you can only add clean water, otherwise the cell will die.

    The cells with iron pyrite performs better too. Corrosion is there but it does not corrode all. It gets to a balance point where the Mg is gray (MgOx x = 2, 3 or more) and Mg.

    Fausto.

    Leave a comment:


  • Slider2732
    replied
    Just a quick update with the standard aluminium. I built a burnt copper version and saw the same voltage but a tiny increase in amperage, 30uA, to 160uA, 0.568V.
    It's now on test with the other one and i'll try leaded solder too.
    Here's that cell and, btw, i've started using a different coil type for 'Penny' type oscillators. Ya know those small silver pots on old radios ? well it's the ferrite inside that can be turned with a small flatblade screwdriver. 150 winds of 40 gauge from a relay, then a twist to form the center tap and then carry on with another 150 winds. Just another type of coil.

    Leave a comment:


  • Allwest
    replied
    Originally posted by vintasalo View Post
    How about oil and graphite powder mix.. No water in oil to decay the negative cathode
    vintasalo,

    I have not tried this, looks interesting though

    I think you can put graphite powder in almost anything

    I am going to pickup some powder this weekend

    Leave a comment:


  • Allwest
    replied
    Originally posted by Lidmotor View Post
    Just a quick note. I have been doing some research on chemalloy and the aluminum welding rod. That led me to all kinds of alloys using zinc and aluminum. Zamak of all things and plain old "pot metal" are interesting also because of the alloys used. I wonder if Brad is right about perhaps semi-conductor qualities when all these things are mixed up in the soup. This is worth looking into more. I'll see if I can pick up a piece of that welding rod this afternoon at the local welding shop.

    Lidmotor
    Lid,

    You can still get Chemalloy at the welding shop, my shop did not have any in at the time and would have had to order it, So I picked up an Aluminum welding rod, they said it was made up of the same thing

    You can get a reading from the rod and water, the interesting part it that no matter how small the piece of rod is, it still has the same volts

    Just using aluminum does not act the same

    Best....

    Leave a comment:


  • Lidmotor
    replied
    Alloys

    Just a quick note. I have been doing some research on chemalloy and the aluminum welding rod. That led me to all kinds of alloys using zinc and aluminum. Zamak of all things and plain old "pot metal" are interesting also because of the alloys used. I wonder if Brad is right about perhaps semi-conductor qualities when all these things are mixed up in the soup. This is worth looking into more. I'll see if I can pick up a piece of that welding rod this afternoon at the local welding shop.

    Lidmotor

    Leave a comment:


  • Slider2732
    replied
    A couple of things piqued my interest in the previous posts.
    Not least of which was that incredibly odd posting on PesWiki. Perhaps it's not so odd when considering this line "The assembly is immersed in water (with no added electrolyte)". Errrrm yeah, quite
    Also, "Every 9 months or so, the magnesium rod and copper wire should be briefly sanded to remove build-up", well no surprise there either, that's what Brad and myself at least have been doing, periodically removing what would STOP the cells from working and would do with this chaps 'creation'.
    I'm all for getting the info out there and practical use made of it - but not claiming it as novel or ones own !
    (Same thing with SEFE and their corporate investor stylized radiant collector. Which, is tempered by at least being seemingly USA based and wishing to make a really good go of Tesla's multiple Patented but non mentioned or cited related work).

    Also of note, borax with aluminium, dunno how I missed that one within the pages. I don't have any presently, but will put a piece of burnt copper in another setup like the above pic and run that too.

    Leave a comment:


  • Sawt2
    replied
    Originally posted by Lidmotor View Post
    Is this the right stuff?

    Aluminum Welding Rods - Pack of 8 Alumiweld Rods

    This sound like a cell we should all try.

    Lidmotor
    That is the stuff from harbor freight. I have not personally tried that but it does seem similar and inexpensive enough to try.
    I found an address for the guy that I bought the chemalloy from, I am going to try to contact him and see if he will tell me where to buy it from.
    I'll keep you posted once I know something
    Brian

    Leave a comment:

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