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  • jehdds
    replied
    Originally posted by John_Bedini View Post
    Ibpointlass,
    I guess I could ask the same question of you, Adding a little water to a crystal growing means nothing as the crystal has channels that can lock up the water hydrate # 5. Does your glue cell grow and is it really dry. what would happen if you made a very big one and added a drop of water?
    John B
    Dear John, Ib and All,

    This is the crux of the issue. Minerals can and do OFTEN contain water as part of the crystal Lattice. Water amplifies the output on Salt based cells. I have done EXTENSIVE AND LONG TERM desiccant tests on cells, including hyperbaric and negative pressure tests. There is given the nature of the materials we are using a natural proclivity of the salts to imbibe water from the atmosphere, albeit in tiny trace amounts. This is critical to the ionic mobility within the lattice itself, given the materials we ARE using on these cells the stove top cell included.

    The key to the continued operation of the cells either by passive or active modus is found here:
    Hygroscopy - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
    Specifically respecting the concept of Deliquescent materials.

    JB or others please correct me if I am wrong but POSITIVE IONS can only travel in Gaseous or LIQUID medium, and yes, glass is a supercooled liquid. This means Plasma or fluid. What we perhaps all seek is that tantalizing tidbit and really nifty demonstration of the glassy type electrolyte cell that John presented. That is an apple, we are playing with oranges. They are NOT the same fruit, yet share the same characteristic that they both use liquid for ionic transport, one being for all intent and purpose solid glass.
    These cells we are making are not plasma to be sure, therefore, some type of carrier liquid is essential. How much, where it is trapped and how long it lasts has to do with the geometry of the lattice, the cell and the ambient environment. I am a simple dentist. I know a little about crystal lattice and the effects of hydration on a practical level. TEETH are crystalline and they ARE hydrous. They also are piezoelectric believe it or not due to hydroxyapatite. Remove the fluid from the lattice and BAD things happen to all the aspects and characteristics of the lattice. This is not the case for all crystals, rather it may be a realization of knowing what you are working with. Another example is opal as a stone is HYDROUS and thus, needs to be periodically treated with oil or stored if not mounted in oil to ensure the TRAPPED water is not lost which leads to lack of the luster and characteristics of opals. We need to SEE what CRYSTALS we are working with are predominantly SALTS. THEY ABSORB WATER, unless you place them in an environment that PREVENTS this. The key is to see how efficiently we can harness useable electricity without losing the constituent electrode materials via galvanic action and more specifically electrically driven metallic consumption. I have made cells that seem to keep the Mg around as well as the cells that seem to create a ton of current yet after prolonged use, Mg deterioration is noted, albeit in a very delayed way, thus JB's noting that it would take YEARS to kill a cell. THIS IS TRUTH. Now, the simple determination needs to be made by all what it is that you seek to accomplish.
    I can say I seek to make a cell that does not digest itself. If all that is required is the periodic application of SOME form of Liquid, be it water or other, than we have what could be considered a fuel cell. That is fine. If what we can make requires NO hydration but RECHARGING then we are no further ahead but perhaps safer than existing art of LiPo cells. IF we can make a system that RECYCLES the Fluid such as the MR cells perhaps do, and acts as an infinite battery, due to clever ionic recycle and shuttle of electrons, or as billions of diodes to capture RF or other flavors of energy that permeate the milieu, than FOR SURE THIS IS CARVING NEW TERRITORY. This is what I seek to make. So I would propose that we accept that the salt based crystals are in some manner or other tied to water for function. What is not entirely clear is that metallic degradation is CONTINUOUS. I know that metallic alteration CAN AND DOES OCCUR if you electrically attempt to deposit material on an electrode. Now, does CONTINUED METALLIC DESTRUCTION CONTINUE? Not necessarily. This is the tough one to prove.
    I am still attempting to vet that it is possible to prevent consumption of the metallic substrates, thus, I choose to use Mg that can easily register deterioration. Al takes much longer to see, and perhaps may even prove to be a better metal due to the fantastically fast oxide production such that what would last for years on Mg may last DECADES on Al. Just a thought. Now again, is this what we are seeking? I wish to pursue NON consumption of metallic compounds. So the proposal is to perhaps start a thread on the INFINITE BATTERY. The rigor of determining NON metallic consumption will be a tough hurdle. BUT the benefits of the brilliant minds out there may just make it possible. Just a thought. Just a proposal.
    If we seek to make something different, we need to shift gears.
    Please forgive my standing on a soap box. I am short of stature
    I welcome all thoughts on my mini rant. I do not pretend to have the answers to be sure, rather, I seek to learn more, in essence, I am not satisfied with where we are. This list and group have accomplished a great deal. The mentorship and guidance is heartfelt and appreciated beyond words, JB, Chuck, ALL who experiment and to those BRILLIANT ones who make the output of our cells actually useful, JB, Lidmotor et all. Lets keep the momentum up. We can accomplish more. There are many minds that can work together to find New answers.
    Very Best Regards,
    Jim

    Leave a comment:


  • jehdds
    replied
    Originally posted by FrozenWaterLab View Post
    Found this at Fisher also

    Magnesium powder, -325 mesh, 99.8%, Alfa Aesar
    99.8% Mg F.W.24.3 [7439-95-4]
    AA1023322
    Alfa Aesar
    No.:10233-22

    Quantity Price
    100g Each for $76.79

    Kinda spendie - Thinking the drill cuttings will have to do OR time to get out the file.
    One Technique I found that makes lovely fine particulate Mg is a Emory Mesh Type sheet that they use for Drywall sanding. Take a block of Magnesium to that over a piece of paper and the mesh size openings that allow gypsum dust not to clog the material allows the magnesium to drop on to the paper.
    Just a hint.
    Very Best Regards,
    Jim

    Leave a comment:


  • FrozenWaterLab
    replied
    After Study

    OK been reading
    The SODIUM METASILICATE PENTAHYDRATE I found at Fisher must be a powered form of WaterGlass.
    Has this stuff been heated too much?
    Will I need to get the liquid to start with?
    If not this material would require hydration (Water).
    Eather way then add the Mg fillings to heat till Mg is dissolved and reduced to another form of material that will need to be ground up. That material is some Special form of Talc. This would be used as the dopant.
    I would suspect a pan would be best
    Trying to get it straight.
    Tnks in adv. for any help FrznWtr

    Leave a comment:


  • John_Bedini
    replied
    Crystals

    Ibpointlass,
    I guess I could ask the same question of you, Adding a little water to a crystal growing means nothing as the crystal has channels that can lock up the water hydrate # 5. Does your glue cell grow and is it really dry. what would happen if you made a very big one and added a drop of water?
    John B

    Leave a comment:


  • FrozenWaterLab
    replied
    Magnesium powder

    Found this at Fisher also

    Magnesium powder, -325 mesh, 99.8%, Alfa Aesar
    99.8% Mg F.W.24.3 [7439-95-4]
    AA1023322
    Alfa Aesar
    No.:10233-22

    Quantity Price
    100g Each for $76.79

    Kinda spendie - Thinking the drill cuttings will have to do OR time to get out the file.

    Leave a comment:


  • FrozenWaterLab
    replied

    Leave a comment:


  • FrozenWaterLab
    replied
    Originally posted by tecknomancer View Post
    100 c is 212 in Fairenhite


    Celsius and Fahrenheit Conversion
    Tnks - Added myself a link to that.
    These are the two Therms I have that go to 220F I will use the Probe.
    When I've done this Then I will try using the kiln but must get the exhaust system working first.
    I have to overcome my aversion to pumping heat outside haha.
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • tecknomancer
    replied
    Added by FrznWtr
    Prepare a Hydrate to be labeled #5 by heating a quantity (?small amount like 1/2 pint because only using as a dopant) of sodium silicate hydrate (Water Glass) in a stainless vessel to almost (but not coming near) 100 c (? What is that in Fairenhite ?)
    This should be done outside due to the noxious nature of the fumes.
    At some point (?I assume while the mixture is cold) we will add Magnesium filings or power ( I assume maybe 10% by Volume) to allow them to be reduced by the caustic nature of the heated sodium silicate. This will produce SODIUM METASILICATE PENTAHYDRATE.
    (Referred to as Hydrate # 5 below)
    This mixture will evaporate away at some point.
    (I would assume that this must be watched to avoid overheating)
    Added by FrznWtr
    100 c is 212 in Fairenhite


    Celsius and Fahrenheit Conversion

    Leave a comment:


  • FrozenWaterLab
    replied
    Originally posted by John_Bedini View Post
    Hydrates and Heptahydrates, and how to fix the John Hutchison cells.

    Follow these instructions very careful or the test will not pan out.

    We have been over and over and over this and I really do not have time to teach this from scratch about Crystals.

    Take the copper and heat until Cherry Red and dip in warm water until you form a layer of black oxide and I mean Black, test with Ohm Meter for conduction you should find none. Then the copper is ready to work with.

    Added by FrznWtr
    Prepare a Hydrate to be labeled #5 by heating a quantity (?small amount like 1/2 pint because only using as a dopant) of sodium silicate hydrate (Water Glass) in a stainless vessel to almost (but not coming near) 100 c (? What is that in Fairenhite ?)
    This should be done outside due to the noxious nature of the fumes.
    At some point (?I assume while the mixture is cold) we will add Magnesium filings or power ( I assume maybe 10% by Volume) to allow them to be reduced by the caustic nature of the heated sodium silicate. This will produce SODIUM METASILICATE PENTAHYDRATE.
    (Referred to as Hydrate # 5 below)
    This mixture will evaporate away at some point.
    (I would assume that this must be watched to avoid overheating)

    Added by FrznWtr

    Take Rochelle Salts 3 spoons
    Take Epsom salts 1 spoon
    Take Hydrate # 5 and dope the mixture with two pinches.
    Then take Iron Pyrite and file enough into the mix so you can see it as a
    bronze covering in the mixture Mix it up with a spoon. Then take the magnesium and file it until you see it covering the mixture then mix it again in this dry mix.

    Now take a hot plate and take just enough of the mixture in a stainless steel cup and add 4ml of water not much, heat to 100c stering until you see little bubbles at this time the chemical will almost be ready it will dry very fast so you must work fast. Do this in a plastic box so you can seal it.
    Pour the mixture the first time in the box and push the copper into it and cover the flat sheet completely with mixture. Now cut a paper towel to fit over the electrode and push it down on the copper as this will be sticky Use a big piece of magnesium (like a fire starter flat piece, drill a hole for a screw to attach a wire same for the copper, you can scrape and solder the wire on the copper.
    Now heat the rest of the mixture and pour it into the box and just push the Magnesium into it, make sure it's almost to the top of the Magnesium.

    Note: it would be better if you cut notches out of the magnesium so the crystal can form in the groves around the outside.
    When this is completed you will have a very sticky crystal that will dry out, but in the meantime it will give between 10 and 50 Ma for the Radiant Oscillator circuit I have discussed before on this group. When the crystal dries out it will produce between 4.5 to 10 Ma with the radiant circuit, not the joule thief.
    I have used these and have watched them work for weeks even months, the Idea is to enclose them with enough H2O in the mixture as this is what this cell requires to work.
    If you make a crappy unit you will fail, if you use the wrong electronics you will fail, just do it the way I have said here. Make sure you can not see any conductivity of the copper with an ohm meter The only conductivity you should see is in the meg ohms. That black oxide is making an NPN device, when you see no more power add 1ml of water to each side don't worry about your Magnesium because it's going to take years to kill this cell.

    Now all this being said if you follow directions it will work for you If you can not get the materials then ask Chuck or I for the correct electronics/ Magnesium/ Box as most of this is in the Kits we have made for sale. This is the only way to learn how to do it, then experiment yourself and see if you can make it better.
    John B
    I have added the bold above. Is this correct? If I'm wrong let me know and I'll delete it.
    Need hot-plate - Waterglass (had a Quart jar for block repair some time back) looking over shelves but might need to order some. Have Mg Drill shavings from earth batt experiments and Stainless container. Will order some powdered Mg.
    Have 2 Meat thermo's but both are in Farenhite to 220, I suspect the probe type will be best .
    Outside is below zero and only 6hr's light a day this time of year.(But thats gaining now)
    Snow is couple feet deep. (Need to melt some and put away for pure water source)
    FrznWtr

    Leave a comment:


  • plengo
    replied
    Originally posted by everyidea View Post
    AND don't heat above 100c. The pdf document I was refering to (http://144.206.159.178/FT/627/536386/14042576.pdf) clearly explain what happens if you raise the temperature too high.

    So at 100c you still will have the hydrates in place.

    Fausto.

    Leave a comment:


  • ibpointless2
    replied
    Originally posted by John_Bedini View Post
    Hydrates and Heptahydrates, and how to fix the John Hutchison cells.

    Follow these instructions very careful or the test will not pan out.

    We have been over and over and over this and I really do not have time to teach this from scratch about Crystals.

    Take the copper and heat until Cherry Red and dip in warm water until you form a layer of black oxide and I mean Black, test with Ohm Meter for conduction you should find none. Then the copper is ready to work with.
    Take Rochelle Salts 3 spoons
    Take Epsom salts 1 spoon
    Take Hydrate # 5 and dope the mixture with two pinches.
    Then take Iron Pyrite and file enough into the mix so you can see it as a
    bronze covering in the mixture Mix it up with a spoon. Then take the magnesium and file it until you see it covering the mixture then mix it again in this dry mix.

    Now take a hot plate and take just enough of the mixture in a stainless steel cup and add 4ml of water not much, heat to 100c stering until you see little bubbles at this time the chemical will almost be ready it will dry very fast so you must work fast. Do this in a plastic box so you can seal it.
    Pour the mixture the first time in the box and push the copper into it and cover the flat sheet completely with mixture. Now cut a paper towel to fit over the electrode and push it down on the copper as this will be sticky Use a big piece of magnesium (like a fire starter flat piece, drill a hole for a screw to attach a wire same for the copper, you can scrape and solder the wire on the copper.
    Now heat the rest of the mixture and pour it into the box and just push the Magnesium into it, make sure it's almost to the top of the Magnesium.

    Note: it would be better if you cut notches out of the magnesium so the crystal can form in the groves around the outside.
    When this is completed you will have a very sticky crystal that will dry out, but in the meantime it will give between 10 and 50 Ma for the Radiant Oscillator circuit I have discussed before on this group. When the crystal dries out it will produce between 4.5 to 10 Ma with the radiant circuit, not the joule thief.
    I have used these and have watched them work for weeks even months, the Idea is to enclose them with enough H2O in the mixture as this is what this cell requires to work.
    If you make a crappy unit you will fail, if you use the wrong electronics you will fail, just do it the way I have said here. Make sure you can not see any conductivity of the copper with an ohm meter The only conductivity you should see is in the meg ohms. That black oxide is making an NPN device, when you see no more power add 1ml of water to each side don't worry about your Magnesium because it's going to take years to kill this cell.

    Now all this being said if you follow directions it will work for you If you can not get the materials then ask Chuck or I for the correct electronics/ Magnesium/ Box as most of this is in the Kits we have made for sale. This is the only way to learn how to do it, then experiment yourself and see if you can make it better.
    John B

    Hey John Bedini, I was wondering what your definition of a crystal battery is? How would you describe it?

    Thanks

    Leave a comment:


  • everyidea
    replied
    SODIUM METASILICATE PENTAHYDRATE

    rw

    Leave a comment:


  • FrozenWaterLab
    replied
    Originally posted by John_Bedini View Post
    Hydrates and Heptahydrates, and how to fix the John Hutchison cells.

    Follow these instructions very careful or the test will not pan out.

    Take Rochelle Salts 3 spoons
    Take Epsom salts 1 spoon
    Take Hydrate # 5 and dope the mixture with two pinches.
    Then take Iron Pyrite and file enough into the mix so you can see it as a
    bronze covering in the mixture Mix it up with a spoon. Then take the magnesium and file it until you see it covering the mixture then mix it again in this dry mix.
    John B
    Tnks John
    Question;
    Two pinches of what?
    What is Hydrate # 5?
    Tnks in advance
    FrznWtr

    Leave a comment:


  • John_Bedini
    replied
    Hydrates and Heptahydrates, and how to fix the John Hutchison cells.

    Hydrates and Heptahydrates, and how to fix the John Hutchison cells.

    Follow these instructions very careful or the test will not pan out.

    We have been over and over and over this and I really do not have time to teach this from scratch about Crystals.

    Take the copper and heat until Cherry Red and dip in warm water until you form a layer of black oxide and I mean Black, test with Ohm Meter for conduction you should find none. Then the copper is ready to work with.
    Take Rochelle Salts 3 spoons
    Take Epsom salts 1 spoon
    Take Hydrate # 5 and dope the mixture with two pinches.
    Then take Iron Pyrite and file enough into the mix so you can see it as a
    bronze covering in the mixture Mix it up with a spoon. Then take the magnesium and file it until you see it covering the mixture then mix it again in this dry mix.

    Now take a hot plate and take just enough of the mixture in a stainless steel cup and add 4ml of water not much, heat to 100c stering until you see little bubbles at this time the chemical will almost be ready it will dry very fast so you must work fast. Do this in a plastic box so you can seal it.
    Pour the mixture the first time in the box and push the copper into it and cover the flat sheet completely with mixture. Now cut a paper towel to fit over the electrode and push it down on the copper as this will be sticky Use a big piece of magnesium (like a fire starter flat piece, drill a hole for a screw to attach a wire same for the copper, you can scrape and solder the wire on the copper.
    Now heat the rest of the mixture and pour it into the box and just push the Magnesium into it, make sure it's almost to the top of the Magnesium.

    Note: it would be better if you cut notches out of the magnesium so the crystal can form in the groves around the outside.
    When this is completed you will have a very sticky crystal that will dry out, but in the meantime it will give between 10 and 50 Ma for the Radiant Oscillator circuit I have discussed before on this group. When the crystal dries out it will produce between 4.5 to 10 Ma with the radiant circuit, not the joule thief.
    I have used these and have watched them work for weeks even months, the Idea is to enclose them with enough H2O in the mixture as this is what this cell requires to work.
    If you make a crappy unit you will fail, if you use the wrong electronics you will fail, just do it the way I have said here. Make sure you can not see any conductivity of the copper with an ohm meter The only conductivity you should see is in the meg ohms. That black oxide is making an NPN device, when you see no more power add 1ml of water to each side don't worry about your Magnesium because it's going to take years to kill this cell.

    Now all this being said if you follow directions it will work for you If you can not get the materials then ask Chuck or I for the correct electronics/ Magnesium/ Box as most of this is in the Kits we have made for sale. This is the only way to learn how to do it, then experiment yourself and see if you can make it better.
    John B

    Leave a comment:


  • chuck H
    replied
    The gift

    John bedini is willing to give a gift!
    Pay attention, you already have all the info presented many times in this thread!

    Leave a comment:

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