I'm not getting anywhere talking
Ibpointless2,
I did not say your cell was a Tomato Can Battery, is just an example battery in a book. I still do not agree with you, as an electrical process is just that. Gas will be generated that is simple physics and you can't change that as you have nothing to absorb it in your mix. The water is in there and you cant get around that either. Why don't you just boil the Epsom salts to a dry state and we will see, that will remove the water and you will have as I have shown before and then add that to your mix with the Salt Sub.
I asked you a simple question if you would poke around and see if you can find water in pockets and that was all I asked.
Nobody said you did not work your ass off. My R&D company has nothing to do with what I asked. You do not have to prove anything to me here as I see this much different then you do. I did your cells because you kept asking if I did. I said they do not make enough power for me and that was acknowledged. I'm going to go by what Physics is and how it works and you can't change that thinking.
I have no Idea what you must prove here as I said Physics is Physics, and Chemistry is Chemistry and Electro Chemistry stays the same and you have not changed that. I said that I want to burn water in the cell as I'm doing something much different then you. I did not keep coming back asking you to build what I was building as you have your own ideas and I acknowledge that fact. I also said if your happy with that fine. But you keep pushing the fact about no water in your cell, it's in there, because you said you warm the cell and the water is released and it does, so it's there.
I only mention the book because it is the basics of batteries, or cells and that is the way they work and you have not changed that. What will it take to prove to you that a completely dry mix will give you nothing as is shown in allot of videos, rub your mix dry adding no water and see. What is the new chemical that is made by your mix, when you mix Epsom Salts and Salt Sub (Potassium Chloride) what does it make? and then what does it do to the metals, as the salt sub is a source for the chloride ion and potassium is more Electropositive then sodium. so it is an Ionic chloride. So I do not understand what is not known here. Why do the cells lose power because of the gas build up on the copper or carbon and it's Hydrogen so what did I say Mno3 and you said what's that. So I'm not getting anywhere talking, so just forget it and do your thing. Your Happy and I'm happy.
John B
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Hi believe we have not met?Originally posted by CrystalDipoleMatrix View Post@IB2: Look, I don't know what you don't understand here but I will make it clear, The water is there/was there and will always be there. It's the hydrogen that's part of the water that this crystal convert into ''real honest to god'' energy, amps, power. That's it!! Without the water, you have nothing. The voltage potential that you see in your experiments is just the difference between the two dissimilar metals. I close the book on this!
Yes water will give you amps but unlike everyone else's cells my cells don't need water to be activated once made. I've done the test to prove that water doesn't live in the cell, I've taken a blow torch to it, put it in the oven to bake out the water, and even froze the cell to freeze water. The point is that water corrodes the metals, that is all. I don't need to add water to the cell, Bedini cells go dead and dry out but when my cells are dry they still stay alive. Yes I know Epsom salt contains water in it but that does not mean it uses it, just watch my videos and you'll get a better understanding of where i'm coming from.
Here is some of my videos.
Crystal Glue Cells don't need water to keep them alive - YouTube
Water corrdes metal and not galvanic - YouTube
Crystal Cell In oven to remove Water - YouTube
Blowtorch crystal cell - proving the cell is not galvanic - YouTube
Here is my cells running things and not needing a drop of water added.
Pulse Motor being powered by Crystal Cell - YouTube
Super Penny Blocking Oscillator Running off of 5 foot crystal cell - YouTube
LED being powered by Crystal Glue cell thats sealed - YouTube
Crystal Cell in a Vacuum sealed container - YouTube
Here are great people doing replications of my cells and getting good result without the need to add water.
Making an Ibpointless Stove Top crystal cell - YouTube
Penny gains power after being left home alone---Hummmm.ASF - YouTube
Results of air humidity on crystal cell experiment - YouTube
glue cell powers pancake joule thief - YouTube
Update - Crystal Battery - YouTube
Bioplastic Crystal Power Cell - YouTube
You really can't say that water is their until you have made what i've made and watch it as it dries out for weeks to see that the voltage is their while all the other cells you make will loose their voltages as they dry out.
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@IB2: Look, I don't know what you don't understand here but I will make it clear, The water is there/was there and will always be there. It's the hydrogen that's part of the water that this crystal convert into ''real honest to god'' energy, amps, power. That's it!! Without the water, you have nothing. The voltage potential that you see in your experiments is just the difference between the two dissimilar metals. I close the book on this!
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John you can't compare my cells to a tomato can battery, its not even on the same level. My cells give voltage when dry - NO water needed. It doesn't matter if my cells been drying for a week or a year, it will give voltage with NO water needed. I consider having voltage with no water a great achievement and it can't be simply compared to a child's tomato can battery. I may not have R&D company but I work my ass off to make cells that I know are not your normal water battery.
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Just a little magic trick to know...
I just want to make it clear to everybody trying to make good long lasting cells: Make sure that the crystal mix is ''DRY'' before putting the magnesium/carbon/zinc/iron (cathode,negative) on the mixture. The goal here is to not let it oxydize because of the water content in the hydrate mix. If the doping agents and the silicate is of good quality, then you never have to put water in. The hydrates will make their job alone.
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I have found this link to some telegraph cells back in the early 1900's. I think the type of depolarizer used is a big part of the puzzle here. Thanks again John! By the way, I think for our kind of cells this is related to the sodium silicate or cuprous oxide i'm not sure. And just a polarizer definition quote: ''... The chemical action incident to the generation
of the current consumes the zinc and, in the simplest
cell, liberates hydrogen at the cathode, which tends
to adhere to the surface and reduces the EMF of the
cell. To overcome this effect of polarization, a
depolarizer is often used, which will dispose of the
hydrogen as fast as it is formed......''
Telegraph BatteriesLast edited by CrystalDipoleMatrix; 02-13-2012, 03:40 AM.
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depolariser
NickZ,
You must add the depolariser, and I did talk about that some posts back.
John B
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JB:
I have already downloaded it and am reading it, looks pretty basic.
Is there some part of it that you are referring to? I'm interested...
Oxides and hydrates...
NZ
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The answer
Nickz,
That book that Fausto posted has your answer in it. When you see it you will know why I posted it. It is just a few post back when I was explaining what the oxide had to do with the hydrate.
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John B:
My best strongest cells were made from the carbon of 10 year old carbon/zinc D size batteries that would not hold a charge. But unfortunately that carbon would also in time start to dissolve the aluminum capacitor cans that I use, after a few months, especially if they weren't totally hermetic.
The aquarium activated charcoal seams to be working for some. But, I do agree that any metals needs to be treated, or it will be affected, and the cell stops working, especially when using salt electrolytes. I use no electrolyte just carbon and there is still something that bogs the cells down, in time. Maybe it is like pluged up nano tubes in the carbon. Just like charcoal water filters, that will only work for only so long.
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Thanks Fausto
Originally posted by plengo View Post
Thanks Fausto for your help on this, everybody should spend the time and read this book as this information is no longer available in the school systems, we no longer build we just consume. As you all can see Eric Dollard T-Rex must teach the same thing with his notes as people do not know. Sorry it must be this way. Everything in the book I did build at an early age of 7 years old to learn the basics, it stayed with me the rest of my life. Look at everything we are trying to build in the groups it is all in this book. Again Thank You Fausto. Oh the book was $5.00 dollars then used. The answers are only to be found in the old books and not the new ones.
John B
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here is the book: http://rawfire.torche.com/~opcom/tbe...lectrician.pdfOriginally posted by John_Bedini View PostNickz,
I forgot to mention that the old normal AA carbon batteries were never dry, it's when they dry out that the battery cease to exist. We did not have any money when we were kids so we would poke holes in the old carbon zinc batteries to let water in to put the moisture back in the material. This would work until the chemical was depleted, but I never seen the zinc get completely eaten up from galvanic action until we would put that in sulphuric acid with copper. We would take old 6 volt car batteries and take the tops off and clean them out and that would work until no more oxide was left on the plates. Just some history.
Ibpointless2 go buy the book The Boy Electrician you will fine some of what your trying to do, The Tomato Can battery and others.John B
Fausto.
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I understand
Originally posted by NickZ View Post@ All:
I understand Ib2 with his dry cell ideas, and also John B with his water cells to obtain more power.
What I think that John is saying is that the cells need to vent, like lead acid batteries normally do. Otherwise the hydrogen gas that is given off by the electrolysis action, which is the cause of the corrosion of the electrodes as well as the contamination of the electrolyte, will combine with air to form water. As well as bottle necking the Ions at the positive pole.
If the electrodes are not treated, and maybe even if they are treated, oxidation will cause the cells to stop working. That is how each metal protects itself from further turning into dust,by stopping the current that is causing the corrosion.
You may think that your cells are sealed, but most likely they are really not sealed very well. As the same hydrogen gas that burst capacitors will do the same with these cells, right through the glue, wax, and even possibly e-poxy, or other sealing materials. Especially with the higher output cells. Those that have very low output cells (microamps) may not see this affecting their cells, but it most likely is, just takes longer to see it.
Like John mentioned, if you want to do more than just dimly light an led, or run a clock, then something else needs to happen.
I have taken one of my dry carbon cells apart that has not been putting out its normal amount of voltage or current. It was made in an aluminum tube, using only wood carbon, and it shows no sign of oxidation even after some months. It may be that the carbon which is both the electrolyte and the carbon rod as the positive rail are contaminated. Although I can't visually see it, they probably are. This was a sealed cell.
I will try the aquarium carbon next, as it looks like some guys are getting very good results, and were able to light a dozen or more leds using only a couple of cells. This is very good news.
The trick of producing a dry cell that has the SAME output as a wet cell is still worth experimenting on, although not an easy thing to do.
My only contention is: that there is more to this than just galvanic chemical reactions. But, you'll only see this if there is no galvanic reaction is going on, as that will overpower the "other" non galvanic, Aether conversion process that is happening at the same time.
The air if full of different energies, frequencies, and vibrations, if we only knew how to tap them. But, It may take more than just the two different metals type cells we have been limited to working with, to see some real juice flowing.
NickZ
Nickz,
I forgot to mention that the old normal AA carbon batteries were never dry, it's when they dry out that the battery cease to exist. We did not have any money when we were kids so we would poke holes in the old carbon zinc batteries to let water in to put the moisture back in the material. This would work until the chemical was depleted, but I never seen the zinc get completely eaten up from galvanic action until we would put that in sulphuric acid with copper. We would take old 6 volt car batteries and take the tops off and clean them out and that would work until no more oxide was left on the plates. Just some history.
Ibpointless2 go buy the book The Boy Electrician you will fine some of what your trying to do, The Tomato Can battery and others.John B
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electrical conductive
Ibpointless2,
The fact is that even with the Vaseline you also will still have corrosion as all these cell will have. The other fact is bubbles will form between the electrodes as you draw micro currents, that was my question. I do understand what the experiment is. I think I did do your experiment right because I did it three ways. I do listen to everything your saying, but I still keep in mind the electrical process that takes place in the cells. If your not going to call these cells or batteries but components what does that mean for the energy end of this process. I still disagree that water is not present because the formula says it is. And your not in a total vacuum with a completely dry atmosphere conditions so moisture is present when your making them. I have used these types of items my whole life to protect things but the corrosion still appears because of the moisture forming pockets between that and the metal. When you draw current at any level gas must be generated this will open up pockets, its like weeds growing up through asphalt and it cracks and the moisture gets in. None of these cells needs water as I have seen that too. Generating a dipole is one thing but using it is another. The source dipole must supply voltage and current or it's just a standing dipole that does nothing. If your happy with that fine. I think what you trying to make is an electrical conductive to pass ions. Two different metals by nature will show some voltage, small but the process oxidation is there simple physics. It is very easy to buy electrical conductive as it's used on spark plug wires it's actually made to stop corrosion of metals but still maintaining an electrical bond, it's in the auto part store, put your mix in that. As NickZ says it's still there as ceramics and carbon have tiny pours that clog up. It's called migration and I have seen this when working for RCA in scopes between silver electrodes and the circuits would die until it was cleaned.The other thing not everything is in the books as books say one thing and life is another. Even Marcus Reids cells have corrosion and they are dry I showed you that in a video.
I disagree with you, but if your happy fine time will tell if we all live that long.
John B
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@ All:
I understand Ib2 with his dry cell ideas, and also John B with his water cells to obtain more power.
What I think that John is saying is that the cells need to vent, like lead acid batteries normally do. Otherwise the hydrogen gas that is given off by the electrolysis action, which is the cause of the corrosion of the electrodes as well as the contamination of the electrolyte, will combine with air to form water. As well as bottle necking the Ions at the positive pole.
If the electrodes are not treated, and maybe even if they are treated, oxidation will cause the cells to stop working. That is how each metal protects itself from further turning into dust,by stopping the current that is causing the corrosion.
You may think that your cells are sealed, but most likely they are really not sealed very well. As the same hydrogen gas that burst capacitors will do the same with these cells, right through the glue, wax, and even possibly e-poxy, or other sealing materials. Especially with the higher output cells. Those that have very low output cells (microamps) may not see this affecting their cells, but it most likely is, just takes longer to see it.
Like John mentioned, if you want to do more than just dimly light an led, or run a clock, then something else needs to happen.
I have taken one of my dry carbon cells apart that has not been putting out its normal amount of voltage or current. It was made in an aluminum tube, using only wood carbon, and it shows no sign of oxidation even after some months. It may be that the carbon which is both the electrolyte and the carbon rod as the positive rail are contaminated. Although I can't visually see it, they probably are. This was a sealed cell.
I will try the aquarium carbon next, as it looks like some guys are getting very good results, and were able to light a dozen or more leds using only a couple of cells. This is very good news.
The trick of producing a dry cell that has the SAME output as a wet cell is still worth experimenting on, although not an easy thing to do.
My only contention is: that there is more to this than just galvanic chemical reactions. But, you'll only see this if there is no galvanic reaction is going on, as that will overpower the "other" non galvanic, Aether conversion process that is happening at the same time.
The air if full of different energies, frequencies, and vibrations, if we only knew how to tap them. But, It may take more than just the two different metals type cells we have been limited to working with, to see some real juice flowing.
NickZLast edited by NickZ; 02-12-2012, 03:49 PM.
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