Bedini Earth Light

[NickZ]

I just been useing quartz crystal points and grind them to dust or sand like consistency. Smoky quartz has also worked very well for me.
Tourmaline sounds interesting, maybe someone can give that a try sometime.
My best carbon/quartz cells also go up in voltage when connected to a load. A single cell lighting a red led, is something to see...
I use no water, no heat, no salts, totally dry hermetically sealed cells. But without the protective layer treatment the voltages will go down in time, even in dry carbon cells. I use no additional electrolyte, as it has not been needed.

NickZ

[cgalvisardila]

does anyone know a source where i can buy pure fine quartz dust?...

[John_Bedini]

Iiron Pyrite fused to copper electrode

In this video I'm showing a way to make a fused electrode. I'm fusing Iron pyrite to the copper electrode this forms an oxide of Iron combined with copper oxide forming a high stressed crystal as one of the electrodes, thanks for watching even if I ended the movie short
Iiron Pyrite fused to copper electrode.wmv - YouTube
John B

[cgalvisardila]

carbon mix

I also had great results with the carbon-alum-sod. silicate mix, will be doing some tests with variations on this mix,... i grinded the mix very very fine untill it tuned to dust and it seems to work better, i have to agree with plengo here, quartz is a good addition... the first cell i made has been running for 17 days now and have only had to water it 3 times, it lasts abut 5 days with no water. that one has epsom-rochelle salts at equal ratio and a small amount of quartz grinded really fine. nice work, im very exited, just joined the forum a week ago and very happy to see all this great group work, every thread is a step closer, thank you all.

the picture with the 12 LEDs is the carbon mix by plengo, grinded to dust, and the one LED is my first mix rocchelle-epsom-quartz... cheers

[b_rads]

Bioplastic Carbon Cell

So far I have some interesting results. With the carbon cell I have more voltage and current for sure. I did a cell that is very wet and although it provides lots of currents it totally corrodes the Mg.

A dry cell, or dry after the first wet (or activation) is the best. I corrodes about 1/2 mm on the surface of the Mg and than it stops while continue providing a good 4ma or more of current continuously at a good voltage too.

Adding very tiny amounts of water carefully on the carbon or mix and avoiding the Mg surface works very, very well.

Too much water totally destroys the carbon/mix crystalline structure killing the cell permanently, very interesting finding. Silica seams to be, in very small quantities, important to give some structure strength to the mix.

Another important finding is that on the first wetting of the cell (activation) some ammonia is formed which is NOT good for the cell and causes corrosion of everything. Once that first ammonia gas is evaporated the cell starts working the best. So some form of initial ventilation seems important here, at least in my cells.

Fausto.

Fausto
Your carbon mix with the bioplastic shown in my last video is surpassing all my expectations. Time to replace the Mg ribbon with Mg rod. I will post an update video in a few days showing the results of this experiment. Thank you Sir.
Brad S

[jehdds]

Guys,
Layering may be of benefit. More testing needed. Thought you might find this interesting.
PGS Graphite and Mg PGS Graphite - YouTube
Very Best Regards,
Jim

[plengo]

@ Plengo:
Looks like you have gotten real good results using the pulverized aquarium carbon, with silicate, and Alum. on the copper caps with 1/2 inch Mg plugs.
But I think that the layer treatment of the metals is still absolutely necessary to control the oxidation.
Thank you for sharing your work.

So far I have some interesting results. With the carbon cell I have more voltage and current for sure. I did a cell that is very wet and although it provides lots of currents it totally corrodes the Mg.

A dry cell, or dry after the first wet (or activation) is the best. I corrodes about 1/2 mm on the surface of the Mg and than it stops while continue providing a good 4ma or more of current continuously at a good voltage too.

Adding very tiny amounts of water carefully on the carbon or mix and avoiding the Mg surface works very, very well.

Too much water totally destroys the carbon/mix crystalline structure killing the cell permanently, very interesting finding. Silica seams to be, in very small quantities, important to give some structure strength to the mix.

Another important finding is that on the first wetting of the cell (activation) some ammonia is formed which is NOT good for the cell and causes corrosion of everything. Once that first ammonia gas is evaporated the cell starts working the best. So some form of initial ventilation seems important here, at least in my cells.

Fausto.

[jehdds]

I find that even by attaching (just touching) a copper wire to a carbon electrode will create oxidation in the copper wire. Even without drilling or using screws to attach the Cu wire to the carbon electrode. Maybe a liquid solder would work better to avoid the corrosion. Or possibly the end of the copper wire can be treated to form the black protective layer, also. This is important because it looks like carbon is the best and strongest positive pole material, which although it does not corrode, it can be contaminated by the venting of the hydrogen gas combining with air (oxygen) to form water, which corrodes the copper wire at the connection point to the carbon. So, any connections should be done outside of the cell, and sealed airtight.

Nick,
I have found that if you use High grade Stainless Steel screw to attach to Carbon, you will do ok. Graphite is a dream to drill and tap. With SS the resistance is higher, but if you use a large enough screw surface area it is nominal issue. I suppose you could always try press fitting Silver/Gold/Palladium alloy wire into a carbon electrode as well.
Very Best Regards,
Jim

[NickZ]

I find that even by attaching (just touching) a copper wire to a carbon electrode will create oxidation in the copper wire. Even without drilling or using screws to attach the Cu wire to the carbon electrode. Maybe a liquid solder would work better to avoid the corrosion. Or possibly the end of the copper wire can be treated to form the black protective layer, also. This is important because it looks like carbon is the best and strongest positive pole material, which although it does not corrode, it can be contaminated by the venting of the hydrogen gas combining with air (oxygen) to form water, which corrodes the copper wire at the connection point to the carbon. So, any connections should be done outside of the cell, and sealed airtight.

[NickZ]

Hausmannite is the natural dark metallic crystalline form.
Looks like an interesting crystal oxide. Also used in lithium batteries.
Hausmannite - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

[John_Bedini]

What is Mn03

What is Mn-03?

Ibpointlass2,
It's just easer to say Mn03, it is Manganese(III) oxide I would write out the whole thing but I thought you knew this as I have talked about Magneanese (II) before as others have used it from old batteries here.
John B

[NickZ]

@ Plengo:
Looks like you have gotten real good results using the pulverized aquarium carbon, with silicate, and Alum. on the copper caps with 1/2 inch Mg plugs.
But I think that the layer treatment of the metals is still absolutely necessary to control the oxidation.
Thank you for sharing your work.

[ibpointless2]

Yes dipping it very fast in warm water to form a thick coat of black oxide, but my point here is that in the mix I'm using the Cu0 is very important as the reaction in the cells with the hydrate needs to mimic Mn-03.This is basally done with a sputtering process.

John B

What is Mn-03?

[John_Bedini]

Black Copper CU0

NickZ,
I have a much different way that I do it, because the copper is not pure. I heat the copper just before it melts as I said in that video. The copper then is real soft and it is difficult to solder. The Black oxide is Cu0. I need this in my crystal as I have stated in the last post. You can do it any way you want as long as it is black, I have found that it even makes a big difference in the Alum Cells. But that is the way I do it.

Yes dipping it very fast in warm water to form a thick coat of black oxide, but my point here is that in the mix I'm using the Cu0 is very important as the reaction in the cells with the hydrate needs to mimic Mn-03.This is basally done with a sputtering process.

John B

[everyidea]

Here is how I make my red or black oxide with copper:

Red: heat copper till it just turns blue/black, just before it turns cherry red, dip it into borax/water.

Black: heat copper till it's cherry red then let cool on its own.

Best thing to do is just buy some copper and then play with fire.

rw