This forum is preserved as a permanent archive. The community continues at eMedia Press.

Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Bedini Ferris Wheel Regauging Motor

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • John_Bedini
    replied
    Bedini GT3

    Mark P,

    I kind of hate to ask you to do this but I'm thinking about how to get the machine running the best I can over the internet. The outside coils, can you change the wire size?

    That is a great looking machine, great work. I'm just thinking that if we could move around the impedance we would get this going real good. The work is excellent, let me know what the ohms are on the outside slave coils.
    John B

    Leave a comment:


  • John_Bedini
    replied
    Bedini GT3

    Chuck I will be at work as soon as my nephew pick up the day bed.
    John

    Leave a comment:


  • John_Bedini
    replied
    Bedini GT3

    To All,
    I suggest that you all learn how to parallel transistors for Bedini /Cole switch.

    The circuit drives the transistors easy. Matching the Bata of the transistors will help greatly, That switch will drive The GT3 easy with plenty of recovery to the capacitor. Switching that big cap is not to difficult with a FET solid state relay.

    Mathew Jones showed that some posts back. My problem was building the right Fet switch since Everybody only stocks SCR switches. I have not been able to get them for the right price.

    The way to do it is with an IRF 260 an opto coupler and voltage regulator and 10K resistor. The Window Motor vid is using triple wound coils so I know the switching works for the GT Motor. Now you have all the information on this Motor, Another thing do not use neo magnets facing the pole pieces only ferrite with the neo behind the ferrite magnet.
    JB

    Leave a comment:


  • John_K
    replied
    Originally posted by minoly View Post
    John,
    we've used these successfully to protect the reed, you can see a picture in our monopole 2 photo folder for some time now.
    Simple Electric Motors | ZNR
    these Absorb the spike, but that's not what we want really is it

    we have also recently been rectifying before and after the reed just like Tesla's impulse on JB's dvd 7.
    you must have a big reed in there, yes/no?
    Hi minoly,

    The reed is a door sensor from a security system I've had for a while. I think it can handle 24V 3A from memory.

    I ran the machine all night (10 hours) no problems. The machine draws average less than 1 amp, but the reed is only to switch the triggering transistor (MJE2955 in my circuit). The spike has not killed it yet. Maybe the 2K2 resistor is protecting it a bit.

    The charging bank went from 36.8V to 37.9V, but the primary bank went down from 36.5V to 28.2V I'll let them rest for an hour and rotate them and see what happens.


    John K.

    Leave a comment:


  • chuck H
    replied
    Very nice!

    @ Mark P. very, very nice work on that! Looking forward to the video...

    Leave a comment:


  • chuck H
    replied
    Nathan Stubblefield / Edward Leedskalnin motor replication 6 poles

    Hi all, heres the 6 pole model. Reed switch. I will do this with a Hall switch later today. I was up till 4:30 A.M. building this one. Iron wire model coming as well. Also will make it charge battery. Will make it run on a little 2x2 solar cell as well. Using a sewing needle on this one. Balanced very good. Have not checked RPM yet. Checked voltage at battery was 1.31v after charging off solar cell. Ran it for about 8 hrs and battery is at same voltage. Anyway, heres a short video. I also have pictures I may post later. But for now got to get working on the next version of this with hall and iron wire... Thanks John Bedini, Lasersaber, and all...


    YouTube - Nathan Stubblefield / Edward Leedskalnin motor replication

    Leave a comment:


  • minoly
    replied
    Originally posted by nvisser View Post
    That also works for hall switches. Move the extra magnet on the other side of the hall closer or away. Turn the magnets pole around and you lenghen the pulse.
    I never even thought to try that. Thanks! (my daughter made me do it)

    Leave a comment:


  • Ecancanvas
    replied
    Used the Scr and Zener that i had on hand. size of cap determines pulse rate I just ajusted the cap to give me about a pulse every second. If cap is 2 small the scr will not turn off.
    good luck
    ed
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • Mark
    replied
    Very nice work Mark P. !!

    Leave a comment:


  • Rl2003
    replied
    ED, Are you referring to the two led's.

    Originally posted by Ecancanvas View Post
    Mark,
    I have been playing around with john K cap pulser and found that it will only work for me if i leave the zener in the same position but both the diodes need to face the other way
    ED
    Thanks John and all, This is a very interesting twist your work.
    I would recommend all to build this, You can feel the pulses
    from a half meter away.
    I am running on just the main coil, disconnected the slaves for now.
    Neo's are in back of the sixteen ceramic's.
    No changes to the circuit yet. The secondary battery is charging quickly now.
    I didn't parallel any more transtors yet, but the two in the circuit as of present
    get very warm, not hot.

    Here is a link to my photo's. I hope it works.

    Picasa Web Albums - R L2003 - GT3 Mini

    I will try to upload a video on YT later tonight... Must play while the sun is out..
    Mark P.

    Leave a comment:


  • nvisser
    replied
    Originally posted by minoly View Post
    we can change the duty cycle by adding a magnet to the other side of the reed. the magnet does not have to be attached it can be in close proximity.

    That also works for hall switches. Move the extra magnet on the other side of the hall closer or away. Turn the magnets pole around and you lenghen the pulse.

    Leave a comment:


  • nvisser
    replied
    Stubblefield coil

    I had time today to work through all Lasersaber's videos like John suggested.
    It is pretty amazing stuff.
    To everybody like me that always wanted to build a little self runner, this is your break!!
    Last edited by nvisser; 01-22-2011, 05:53 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • minoly
    replied
    reed

    Originally posted by Ecoman11 View Post
    JB,

    Sorry I meant the ampere*turns (AT) of the reed switch. This is the magnetic proximity value which the reed switch triggers. I've done extensive experiments with many types of reeds and have found that the AT value plays a part in shaping your waveform along with the degree position as you mentioned. A low AT value would produce a duty cycle of about %5-25 while a higher AT value would produce about %25-50. This is due to the gap (reflex speed) of the contact leads. I only ask because I have a great interest in reeds and magnetic coils.

    On a side note, if you want that radiant spike to go off the scale, try tungsten tipped reed switches.

    Thanks in advance.

    Ecoman
    we can change the duty cycle by adding a magnet to the other side of the reed. the magnet does not have to be attached it can be in close proximity.
    here's a better explanation about 2/3'rds of the way down:
    Simple Electric Motors | How It Works: Reed Switch Motor

    we've learned a ton about reeds here for those interested:
    Magnetic reed switches, reed relay, switch components

    Leave a comment:


  • John_Bedini
    replied
    Bedini GT3

    Ecoman11,
    I'm sorry I was thinking about something else here.
    The switch is surplus and I have no specs on it, but it is really very sensitive. The coil is # 31 wire at about 1000 ft, my counter on the winding machine only gives turns so I have 4000 turns or about 130 ohms. My gap is set at 1/4inch with this switch. Yes I have noticed that changing the angle also does that. I have also found out that using the wire that is coming out of the reed seems to work better, less drag on the system with this small rotor. I have much different rotor and Chuck H was going to try 6 poles. We have found a way to make a real good bearing for the rotor but the machining is important and the rotor weight. The glass reads you can see the small arcing on the contacts. The digital scope has a hard time with that so I try to kill that and the charging stops, so the answer is in the spike to cause the charging effect. The transistor works much better. That is a new scope so when all fails read the manual hard to keep up with all the equipment. I will try to do what you suggest, do you have source for that reed? So many question here I will try to get to them all.
    John B

    Leave a comment:


  • minoly
    replied
    ringing

    John B,
    I like your ringing Vid demo
    YouTube - Iron-less Monopole Motor 2

    Bryan over at monopole 2 put up a challenge on ringing some time back:
    Latest news coverage, email, free stock quotes, live scores and video are just the beginning. Discover more every day at Yahoo!

    I think you might have him his analog scope shows the ring nicely.
    patrick

    Leave a comment:

Working...
X