Bedini Ferris Wheel Regauging Motor

[John_Bedini]

Bedini GT3

@All

I'm not on here to charge anybody anything, I'm happy to help to get your machine running very close to mine. So I'm going to forget all this crap. I'm not a social engineer. I just know what I know. I put my pants on just like you all. One point I might bring up is you cant give a royalty to anybody that is a no name, you need the real name. I'm willing to do that, and Rick would do the same thing because I would beat him silly here at work. I do not like to really talk about things until it's proven to work. So let's just forget all of this as it is just a distraction from people that want to build things. Yes and Lidmotor does deserve much more then that, but he did talk to me on the phone and did not hide anything. But if your going to play in this field use your real name with me, I'm not dead because of it yet. I would have talked to Lasersaber the same way but not with a hidden name.
John B

[LaserSaber]

I did want to talk to him as I was going to share some better things with him but he does not have time to discuss any engineering or data with me.

I would love to talk with you. I never meant to imply that I was too busy to talk. I just hate doing e-mail and posting on forums. Let's exchange phone numbers and set up a time to have a good long chat.

I love your latest videos. It's great to see more air batteries getting built. The effects on the iron wire coil are sure neat to see. There is a reason I keep experimenting with iron wire in my coils. I have seen some pretty strange effects on the iron wire.

[John_Bedini]

Bedini GT3

OK
Lasersaber,
I will send an e-mail to you tonight and call you at a convent time I will call as I have free calling as My wife works for the phone company.
John B

[Rl2003]

John and all, I have my Mini GT3 v2 up and running.
I was sure hoping to flip the switch and watch it go but
at first not much happened. The two transistors got a little
warm, but thats it. I went back and tested a few things but
it was the hall sensor. I moved it to half way between two
of the magnets (while over TDC) and then it would run. Now
the transistors get really warm.
Ive started with 12 volts only. Tried different caps from 16-50v.
All my coils are in parallel and all at 1.1 ohm...
Here's my questions. I have no voltage going back to the secondary
battery. And no brightness in the Led's. I will first try a different SCR
as the one I had is a S0402 nh 800v 4 amp. Also could be the diode
after the switch. I didn't have the one in the schematic, I used a MUR 440.
Don't think it would have mattered although.
I made my circuit from John K's schematic.
I will take a post some picture tomorrow when the lighting is better.

For any one else building this. Make sure you allow for adj. of the hall,
as Jeremy's drawing showed.

Mark

[Ecoman11]

JB,

I'm just curious, what is the AT range of your reed switch?


Ecoman

[John_Bedini]

Bedini GT3

R12003,
I would parallel transistors and change the timing a little. Watch the capacitor for voltage. The next thing I would try, is running the machine with the center coil first. With the GT3 you can put the outside coils in series as that was discussed at the conference with a few people. We will get it running no worry. if you do this match Beta on the devices.
John B

[John_Bedini]

Bedini GT3

Ecoman11,
Hope your talking about the Iron Monopole, if you are then it's four poles at 90 degrees each. I have set the timing at about 60 degrees on that motor.
John B

[John_Bedini]

Bedini GT3

AT ALL,
For those that want to know how I mounted the devices at the conference.

I have a You tube of a Window Motor at 36 volts you can see in the control box all parallel devices if you do this make sure you match beta on the transistors. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F3QHsoyGH5I
Also these bud boxes make good heat sinks. The impedance is very low as the coils only have 150 turns of # 18 wire all coils in the motor in parallel.
John B

[minoly]

AT ALL,
For those that want to know how I mounted the devices at the conference.

I have a You tube of a Window Motor at 36 volts you can see in the control box all parallel devices if you do this make sure you match beta on the transistors. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F3QHsoyGH5I
Also these bud boxes make good heat sinks. The impedance is very low as the coils only have 150 turns of # 18 wire all coils in the motor in parallel.
John B

John the link comes back with the message:
"This video is private.
Sorry about that."

[John_Bedini]

Bedini GT3

Try the link now.
YouTube - Bedini-Cole 1971 to 1984 built from lab notes
John B

[Ecancanvas]

Mark,
I have been playing around with john K cap pulser and found that it will only work for me if i leave the zener in the same position but both the diodes need to face the other way
ED

[John_Bedini]

Bedini GT3

Ecancanvas,
Draw a picture and put it up so we all can see what is going on.
John B

[Ecoman11]

JB,

Sorry I meant the ampere*turns (AT) of the reed switch. This is the magnetic proximity value which the reed switch triggers. I've done extensive experiments with many types of reeds and have found that the AT value plays a part in shaping your waveform along with the degree position as you mentioned. A low AT value would produce a duty cycle of about %5-25 while a higher AT value would produce about %25-50. This is due to the gap (reflex speed) of the contact leads. I only ask because I have a great interest in reeds and magnetic coils.

On a side note, if you want that radiant spike to go off the scale, try tungsten tipped reed switches.

Thanks in advance.

Ecoman

[wrench76]

Nice window motor

Very nice motor you have there John B! Are there 3 strands per wind for a total of 9 in parallel?
Check out this new diode from OSU.
Revolutionary diode design cracks 50 year-old electronics speed barrier







Brian

[iankoglin]