Bedini Ferris Wheel Regauging Motor

[iankoglin]

Mr. John Bedini

I have some photos attached

I am not able to upload my photos they can be seen Here

"http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bedini_monopole2/photos/album/1050588938/pic/list"

Kindest regards Ian Koglin

[John_K]

Bedini GT3

Hi All,

Since I blew up all my halls and are waiting for new ones to arrive, I couldn't help but experiment with something else.

I replaced the hall with the reed switch (inspired by John B's latest videos), so the reed switch is placed between the base of the triggering transistor and primary battery negative in the circuit. Physically, I have the reed placed where the left slave coil would normally go.

This gives a relatively low duty cycle as the circuit is only on when the rotor magnet passes the reed switch. I can adjust the dwell down further by increasing the gap between the reed and the magnet.

So far it's running pretty good - low draw current and great charging, as well as the mechanical energy.

Another mod I made was replacing the the NPN and PNP drive transistors with Sziklai pairs. This will share the load and give me slightly better switching speed.

I'll post a video and updated schematic tomorrow.


John K.

[minoly]

Hi All,

Since I blew up all my halls and are waiting for new ones to arrive, I couldn't help but experiment with something else.

I replaced the hall with the reed switch (inspired by John B's latest videos), so the reed switch is placed between the base of the triggering transistor and primary battery negative in the circuit. Physically, I have the reed placed where the left slave coil would normally go.

This gives a relatively low duty cycle as the circuit is only on when the rotor magnet passes the reed switch. I can adjust the dwell down further by increasing the gap between the reed and the magnet.

So far it's running pretty good - low draw current and great charging, as well as the mechanical energy.

Another mod I made was replacing the the NPN and PNP drive transistors with Sziklai pairs. This will share the load and give me slightly better switching speed.

I'll post a video and updated schematic tomorrow.


John K.

John,
we've used these successfully to protect the reed, you can see a picture in our monopole 2 photo folder for some time now.
Simple Electric Motors | ZNR
these Absorb the spike, but that's not what we want really is it

we have also recently been rectifying before and after the reed just like Tesla's impulse on JB's dvd 7.
you must have a big reed in there, yes/no?

[minoly]

ringing

John B,
I like your ringing Vid demo
YouTube - Iron-less Monopole Motor 2

Bryan over at monopole 2 put up a challenge on ringing some time back:

http://tinyurl.com/4ngxdh7

I think you might have him his analog scope shows the ring nicely.
patrick

[John_Bedini]

Bedini GT3

Ecoman11,
I'm sorry I was thinking about something else here.
The switch is surplus and I have no specs on it, but it is really very sensitive. The coil is # 31 wire at about 1000 ft, my counter on the winding machine only gives turns so I have 4000 turns or about 130 ohms. My gap is set at 1/4inch with this switch. Yes I have noticed that changing the angle also does that. I have also found out that using the wire that is coming out of the reed seems to work better, less drag on the system with this small rotor. I have much different rotor and Chuck H was going to try 6 poles. We have found a way to make a real good bearing for the rotor but the machining is important and the rotor weight. The glass reads you can see the small arcing on the contacts. The digital scope has a hard time with that so I try to kill that and the charging stops, so the answer is in the spike to cause the charging effect. The transistor works much better. That is a new scope so when all fails read the manual hard to keep up with all the equipment. I will try to do what you suggest, do you have source for that reed? So many question here I will try to get to them all.
John B

[minoly]

reed

JB,

Sorry I meant the ampere*turns (AT) of the reed switch. This is the magnetic proximity value which the reed switch triggers. I've done extensive experiments with many types of reeds and have found that the AT value plays a part in shaping your waveform along with the degree position as you mentioned. A low AT value would produce a duty cycle of about %5-25 while a higher AT value would produce about %25-50. This is due to the gap (reflex speed) of the contact leads. I only ask because I have a great interest in reeds and magnetic coils.

On a side note, if you want that radiant spike to go off the scale, try tungsten tipped reed switches.

Thanks in advance.

Ecoman

we can change the duty cycle by adding a magnet to the other side of the reed. the magnet does not have to be attached it can be in close proximity.
here's a better explanation about 2/3'rds of the way down:
Simple Electric Motors | How It Works: Reed Switch Motor

we've learned a ton about reeds here for those interested:
Magnetic reed switches, reed relay, switch components

[nvisser]

Stubblefield coil

I had time today to work through all Lasersaber's videos like John suggested.
It is pretty amazing stuff.
To everybody like me that always wanted to build a little self runner, this is your break!!

[nvisser]

we can change the duty cycle by adding a magnet to the other side of the reed. the magnet does not have to be attached it can be in close proximity.

That also works for hall switches. Move the extra magnet on the other side of the hall closer or away. Turn the magnets pole around and you lenghen the pulse.

[Rl2003]

ED, Are you referring to the two led's.

Mark,
I have been playing around with john K cap pulser and found that it will only work for me if i leave the zener in the same position but both the diodes need to face the other way
ED

Thanks John and all, This is a very interesting twist your work.
I would recommend all to build this, You can feel the pulses
from a half meter away.
I am running on just the main coil, disconnected the slaves for now.
Neo's are in back of the sixteen ceramic's.
No changes to the circuit yet. The secondary battery is charging quickly now.
I didn't parallel any more transtors yet, but the two in the circuit as of present
get very warm, not hot.

Here is a link to my photo's. I hope it works.

Picasa Web Albums - R L2003 - GT3 Mini

I will try to upload a video on YT later tonight... Must play while the sun is out..
Mark P.

[Mark]

Very nice work Mark P. !!

[Ecancanvas]

Used the Scr and Zener that i had on hand. size of cap determines pulse rate I just ajusted the cap to give me about a pulse every second. If cap is 2 small the scr will not turn off.
good luck
ed

[minoly]

That also works for hall switches. Move the extra magnet on the other side of the hall closer or away. Turn the magnets pole around and you lenghen the pulse.

I never even thought to try that. Thanks! (my daughter made me do it)

[chuck H]

Nathan Stubblefield / Edward Leedskalnin motor replication 6 poles

Hi all, heres the 6 pole model. Reed switch. I will do this with a Hall switch later today. I was up till 4:30 A.M. building this one. Iron wire model coming as well. Also will make it charge battery. Will make it run on a little 2x2 solar cell as well. Using a sewing needle on this one. Balanced very good. Have not checked RPM yet. Checked voltage at battery was 1.31v after charging off solar cell. Ran it for about 8 hrs and battery is at same voltage. Anyway, heres a short video. I also have pictures I may post later. But for now got to get working on the next version of this with hall and iron wire... Thanks John Bedini, Lasersaber, and all...


YouTube - Nathan Stubblefield / Edward Leedskalnin motor replication

[chuck H]

Very nice!

@ Mark P. very, very nice work on that! Looking forward to the video...

[John_K]

John,
we've used these successfully to protect the reed, you can see a picture in our monopole 2 photo folder for some time now.
Simple Electric Motors | ZNR
these Absorb the spike, but that's not what we want really is it

we have also recently been rectifying before and after the reed just like Tesla's impulse on JB's dvd 7.
you must have a big reed in there, yes/no?

Hi minoly,

The reed is a door sensor from a security system I've had for a while. I think it can handle 24V 3A from memory.

I ran the machine all night (10 hours) no problems. The machine draws average less than 1 amp, but the reed is only to switch the triggering transistor (MJE2955 in my circuit). The spike has not killed it yet. Maybe the 2K2 resistor is protecting it a bit.

The charging bank went from 36.8V to 37.9V, but the primary bank went down from 36.5V to 28.2V I'll let them rest for an hour and rotate them and see what happens.


John K.