Bedini Ferris Wheel Regauging Motor

[minoly]

Hi All,

Since I blew up all my halls and are waiting for new ones to arrive, I couldn't help but experiment with something else.

I replaced the hall with the reed switch (inspired by John B's latest videos), so the reed switch is placed between the base of the triggering transistor and primary battery negative in the circuit. Physically, I have the reed placed where the left slave coil would normally go.

This gives a relatively low duty cycle as the circuit is only on when the rotor magnet passes the reed switch. I can adjust the dwell down further by increasing the gap between the reed and the magnet.

So far it's running pretty good - low draw current and great charging, as well as the mechanical energy.

Another mod I made was replacing the the NPN and PNP drive transistors with Sziklai pairs. This will share the load and give me slightly better switching speed.

I'll post a video and updated schematic tomorrow.


John K.

John,
we've used these successfully to protect the reed, you can see a picture in our monopole 2 photo folder for some time now.
Simple Electric Motors | ZNR
these Absorb the spike, but that's not what we want really is it

we have also recently been rectifying before and after the reed just like Tesla's impulse on JB's dvd 7.
you must have a big reed in there, yes/no?

[John_K]

Bedini GT3

Hi All,

Since I blew up all my halls and are waiting for new ones to arrive, I couldn't help but experiment with something else.

I replaced the hall with the reed switch (inspired by John B's latest videos), so the reed switch is placed between the base of the triggering transistor and primary battery negative in the circuit. Physically, I have the reed placed where the left slave coil would normally go.

This gives a relatively low duty cycle as the circuit is only on when the rotor magnet passes the reed switch. I can adjust the dwell down further by increasing the gap between the reed and the magnet.

So far it's running pretty good - low draw current and great charging, as well as the mechanical energy.

Another mod I made was replacing the the NPN and PNP drive transistors with Sziklai pairs. This will share the load and give me slightly better switching speed.

I'll post a video and updated schematic tomorrow.


John K.

[iankoglin]

Mr. John Bedini

I have some photos attached

I am not able to upload my photos they can be seen Here

"http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bedini_monopole2/photos/album/1050588938/pic/list"

Kindest regards Ian Koglin

[iankoglin]

[wrench76]

Nice window motor

Very nice motor you have there John B! Are there 3 strands per wind for a total of 9 in parallel?
Check out this new diode from OSU.
Revolutionary diode design cracks 50 year-old electronics speed barrier







Brian

[Ecoman11]

JB,

Sorry I meant the ampere*turns (AT) of the reed switch. This is the magnetic proximity value which the reed switch triggers. I've done extensive experiments with many types of reeds and have found that the AT value plays a part in shaping your waveform along with the degree position as you mentioned. A low AT value would produce a duty cycle of about %5-25 while a higher AT value would produce about %25-50. This is due to the gap (reflex speed) of the contact leads. I only ask because I have a great interest in reeds and magnetic coils.

On a side note, if you want that radiant spike to go off the scale, try tungsten tipped reed switches.

Thanks in advance.

Ecoman

[John_Bedini]

Bedini GT3

Ecancanvas,
Draw a picture and put it up so we all can see what is going on.
John B

[Ecancanvas]

Mark,
I have been playing around with john K cap pulser and found that it will only work for me if i leave the zener in the same position but both the diodes need to face the other way
ED

[John_Bedini]

Bedini GT3

Try the link now.
YouTube - Bedini-Cole 1971 to 1984 built from lab notes
John B

[minoly]

AT ALL,
For those that want to know how I mounted the devices at the conference.

I have a You tube of a Window Motor at 36 volts you can see in the control box all parallel devices if you do this make sure you match beta on the transistors. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F3QHsoyGH5I
Also these bud boxes make good heat sinks. The impedance is very low as the coils only have 150 turns of # 18 wire all coils in the motor in parallel.
John B

John the link comes back with the message:
"This video is private.
Sorry about that."

[John_Bedini]

Bedini GT3

AT ALL,
For those that want to know how I mounted the devices at the conference.

I have a You tube of a Window Motor at 36 volts you can see in the control box all parallel devices if you do this make sure you match beta on the transistors. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F3QHsoyGH5I
Also these bud boxes make good heat sinks. The impedance is very low as the coils only have 150 turns of # 18 wire all coils in the motor in parallel.
John B

[John_Bedini]

Bedini GT3

Ecoman11,
Hope your talking about the Iron Monopole, if you are then it's four poles at 90 degrees each. I have set the timing at about 60 degrees on that motor.
John B

[John_Bedini]

Bedini GT3

R12003,
I would parallel transistors and change the timing a little. Watch the capacitor for voltage. The next thing I would try, is running the machine with the center coil first. With the GT3 you can put the outside coils in series as that was discussed at the conference with a few people. We will get it running no worry. if you do this match Beta on the devices.
John B

[Ecoman11]

JB,

I'm just curious, what is the AT range of your reed switch?


Ecoman

[Rl2003]

John and all, I have my Mini GT3 v2 up and running.
I was sure hoping to flip the switch and watch it go but
at first not much happened. The two transistors got a little
warm, but thats it. I went back and tested a few things but
it was the hall sensor. I moved it to half way between two
of the magnets (while over TDC) and then it would run. Now
the transistors get really warm.
Ive started with 12 volts only. Tried different caps from 16-50v.
All my coils are in parallel and all at 1.1 ohm...
Here's my questions. I have no voltage going back to the secondary
battery. And no brightness in the Led's. I will first try a different SCR
as the one I had is a S0402 nh 800v 4 amp. Also could be the diode
after the switch. I didn't have the one in the schematic, I used a MUR 440.
Don't think it would have mattered although.
I made my circuit from John K's schematic.
I will take a post some picture tomorrow when the lighting is better.

For any one else building this. Make sure you allow for adj. of the hall,
as Jeremy's drawing showed.

Mark