My Motors got me to Tap into Radiant Energy

[Cornboy 555]

Basic Stuff

Good one Machine, look forward to you pulsing that beast with a monster.

@ Jonh Stone, i am preparing to build pulsing units for MAG3, i will use seperate 12v SLA to power drivers and 74HC so will use7805 for 74HC and direct power from battery with resistor, not 7812? am i looking at this correctly?

If this is correct i notice max input current for micrel is 50MA, what current would you recomend for powerfull but long opperation, and what wattage and ohm's value for resistor?

Displaying my very limited electronics knowledge here, these are basic questions, i know.

Thanks in advance Cornboy.

[JohnStone]

Here is a little vid of the monster finally AWAKE, but groggy

JohnStone's Monster Is Alive Video by machinealive | Photobucket

Hi Machine,
GRRRRREAT! I still wait for material from Farnell.

Did you measure how fast FETs switch? I am eager to know quality of switching.

Please be aware those resistors between driver and gate need to be tuned as low as possible in order to just prevent oscillaltions: else-> slow switching!) No power types required. You have quite long distance between driver and gates.
It will pay to test with resistors short circuit. If no oscillations occure -> great! But you need to test at higher amps with resistive load.

I missed GND wires in your vid from driver pin5 in prallel to resistors to the respective source pins of FETs. The current back path needs to run just near to and opposite to drive path in order to make FETs switching fast and avoid spurious oscillations. (Imagine current likes highways)

JohnS

[JohnStone]

Arduino

Hi Nico,
Cornboy is eager to buy an Arduino and he suggests to use the micro. There are good reasons to use it beause it is a recent design and will be available for long time. It is compatible to Leonordo as well. I see an andvantage to have more ports available for future use.
Will it be OK if we suggest this micro (Leonardo or micro) to all those guys out there being eager to start with Arduino generator?

See differences to uno/nano

BTW: I succeeded in generating multi pulse actions out of a predefined data array. Just proof of concept. Pulses and timing can be set deliberately for up to 8 channels (bits of a port)
JohnS

[machinealive]

Here is a little vid of the monster finally AWAKE, but groggy

JohnStone's Monster Is Alive Video by machinealive | Photobucket

[JohnStone]

.....

The rheostat from the old welding machine is 66 ohms, and seems ok, for being in a junk heap outside for ten years. Hopefully that will keep the starting amps down. Johnstone, UFO, Dana, would you guys bother with using the rheostat.

A rheostat is an ideal means in order to protect all sorts of equipment.
But please be aware that if you reduce the resistance to minute values ALL heat focuses on that short part being still active in your rheostat. That might kill it within short time.

Please be aware that you are not allowed to drive those gates 74HC132 above 5V!
JohnS.

[machinealive]

controller

Hey Dana, JohnStone

OK, Well last time I posted I thought I had the circiut beat, but.... I had a nice pulse at the gate but try as i might I could not get fets to switch, i checked over and over.
So I rebuilt the circuit, pulsing the nand with no opto, promise I will put one in as soon as they arrive, and just now I am able to get neons to light, with two fets in parallel. .

I think I may have figured out the original circuit problem, now, and I will look at that today, I will post Dana, as soon as it works. I had to get something going to pulse that motor, I could care less if the fets cook, at this point, I gotta see that motor pulsed.

I did nothing to your circuit, JohnStone but leave out the opto,

The rheostat from the old welding machine is 66 ohms, and seems ok, for being in a junk heap outside for ten years. Hopefully that will keep the starting amps down. Johnstone, UFO, Dana, would you guys bother with using the rheostat.

edit( Hey, just got the neons flashing with the original circuit, there is quite a bit of oscillations at gate, I noticed that with both circuits)

[JohnStone]

.......
https://www.dropbox.com/s/i9pylsql07...0%20SG3525.doc

this is the Target T3001 file
https://www.dropbox.com/s/7vl6pbia43...0ver%201.T3001
....

1.
Wow, that chip SG3532

[prochiro]

Monster Pulser

@JohnStone and/ or Machinealive

I am having issues with the pulser as there is current in the drain and source even with no battery connection to them. I may have something wrong. Just wanted to see how other projects are coming and if successful befor I tear it apart any more.
Dana

[iankoglin]

Hi Iankoglin,
just first answers in short because I am still at work.
See introductory vids from target 3001. Hit "First steps".
It is no drawing program but a set of specialized commands. You add components and they have all pads and holes necessary included. Diffferent items ere being entered in different drawing layers (imagine transparent foils) . You can switch on and off any layer in order to see what you want to see.
You choose to draw wires the corresponding layer will be used.
The tut. vid shows wery nicely how to draw a simple PCB with two connectors and and LED / resistor.

Usually you draw a schamtic first and then you switch to PCP layout, position your components waiting on richt hand side for your action. They are tied together with grren rupper lines representign the connection drawn in circuit diagram. Then you convert those green rubber lines to solid copper wires by drawing them.
Foloow the vids. It is quite easy.

Unfortunately your link is wrong. It points not to a file.
You should have a dropbox drive in your file explorer. Right klick on the file you want to share and copy public link to your post in this forum.
JohnS

G'Day John
Thanks for your reply
I think I have it OK now

This is a word doc

https://www.dropbox.com/s/i9pylsql07...0%20SG3525.doc

this is the Target T3001 file
https://www.dropbox.com/s/7vl6pbia43...0ver%201.T3001

Kindest regards

[JohnStone]

Hi Iankoglin,
just first answers in short because I am still at work.
See introductory vids from target 3001. Hit "First steps".
It is no drawing program but a set of specialized commands. You add components and they have all pads and holes necessary included. Diffferent items ere being entered in different drawing layers (imagine transparent foils) . You can switch on and off any layer in order to see what you want to see.
You choose to draw wires the corresponding layer will be used.
The tut. vid shows wery nicely how to draw a simple PCB with two connectors and and LED / resistor.

Usually you draw a schamtic first and then you switch to PCP layout, position your components waiting on richt hand side for your action. They are tied together with grren rupper lines representign the connection drawn in circuit diagram. Then you convert those green rubber lines to solid copper wires by drawing them.
Foloow the vids. It is quite easy.

Unfortunately your link is wrong. It points not to a file.
You should have a dropbox drive in your file explorer. Right klick on the file you want to share and copy public link to your post in this forum.
JohnS

G'Day John Stone
I really appreciate your effort in helping all of us here
I have downloaded Freebie Target 3001 and this is my first effort I am having difficulty in trying to find where I actually draw the backside of the PCB showing holes to be drilled and lands.
I tried to up load this to Photobucked but it would not let me So I joined Dropbox and when I tried to download it from dropbox to my computer it would not allow me to view the PCB layout it came up with an error I know that if I want to send Videos I can insert them into a Word doc and they play OK so I tried the same with the T3001 and it works also

This PWM circuit I am sure outputs square wave pulses to two different series of opto's and they pulse one series when the wave is high and one when the wave is low.
I was intending to use this circuit to pulse using only one side of the wave to several 555 mosfet drivers.

I have loaded the Word doc here it also has the circuit that I copied it was given to me some years ago by Stevan Cerovic he gave it free to use openly

https://www.dropbox.com/home#!/home/...Sharing%20docs

please could you paruse this and perhaps tell me if it should be OK and how to make the drawing of the board?

I did send you a PM but disregard it

Kindest Regards

Always trying and learning

[iankoglin]

Kogs first attempt @Target3001

G'Day John Stone
I really appreciate your effort in helping all of us here
I have downloaded Freebie Target 3001 and this is my first effort I am having difficulty in trying to find where I actually draw the backside of the PCB showing holes to be drilled and lands.
I tried to up load this to Photobucked but it would not let me So I joined Dropbox and when I tried to download it from dropbox to my computer it would not allow me to view the PCB layout it came up with an error I know that if I want to send Videos I can insert them into a Word doc and they play OK so I tried the same with the T3001 and it works also

This PWM circuit I am sure outputs square wave pulses to two different series of opto's and they pulse one series when the wave is high and one when the wave is low.
I was intending to use this circuit to pulse using only one side of the wave to several 555 mosfet drivers.

I have loaded the Word doc here it also has the circuit that I copied it was given to me some years ago by Stevan Cerovic he gave it free to use openly

https://www.dropbox.com/home#!/home/...Sharing%20docs

please could you paruse this and perhaps tell me if it should be OK and how to make the drawing of the board?

I did send you a PM but disregard it

Kindest Regards

Always trying and learning

[JohnStone]

@ JohnStone, Thanks again John, I really didn't want you to do all that work, but I really do appreciate it. I owe you some experiment time. Tell me what experiments you want me to run and I'll do it for for you.

I got the driver done. Once the kids go to bed I'm gonna start with the testing circuits. Thanks again JohnStone. Oh yea, John I was really not trying to mod your great work, Once signal leaves the Fod3180, It's the exact same circuit. That was the best laid out circuit, I've ever built. I do have the correct opto's coming.

I'll post a little vid of your "creation" hard at work asap.

Also, If you don't want to post avalanche related material here yet, you can pm me any material you think I should read about, or things I should start thinking about. There is not alot of info out there, that I've found, yet...

Hi Machine,
do not mind. The circuit was easy to modify because the task was mostly deleteng items. I thought it would be a convenient way to show up with a simpler design for less amperage.

Regarding avalanche: This effect is one of fastes procedures in semiconductor material. (basic knowledge from Fairchild)
I assume SHE will be attacted strongly by those fast changes.
In fact it is similar to using a neon with current limiting resistor and you add a cap across the neon. The cap will charge up to the break down voltage of the neon (ca. 90V) and will discharge suddenly with a flash to the minimum exstinguishing voltage. The prcedure will occure again and again.
At semiconductors built for avalanche - only concern is heat. If we master it we can use it for long time. Unfortunately this effect is not used for MOSFETs and driving will be very different -> a dedicated research if used for high power applications.

Some stuff from IR
same from NXP
Unfortnately I do not find any application using MOSFETs intentionally for this task.

JohnS

[machinealive]

Driving time

@ JohnStone, Thanks again John, I really didn't want you to do all that work, but I really do appreciate it. I owe you some experiment time. Tell me what experiments you want me to run and I'll do it for for you.

I got the driver done. Once the kids go to bed I'm gonna start with the testing circuits. Thanks again JohnStone. Oh yea, John I was really not trying to mod your great work, Once signal leaves the Fod3180, It's the exact same circuit. That was the best laid out circuit, I've ever built. I do have the correct opto's coming.

I'll post a little vid of your "creation" hard at work asap.

Also, If you don't want to post avalanche related material here yet, you can pm me any material you think I should read about, or things I should start thinking about. There is not alot of info out there, that I've found, yet.



edit(UFO and JohnStone I relized I should have 1 or 2 big rheostats in that welder I have.

[JohnStone]

Answer to Machine:

...
@ johnstone, The arduino only outputs 5v, and the FOD3180 needs 10v, what is the easiest way to get arduino up to 12v, have it switch a fet or a 555 which switches the fod3180 at 12v. I got the fod3180 output down to 5v, but I am not sure what I should and should not due, I don't want to hurt poor old leonardo
I may just skip the opto and switch nand gate directly, I don't know. I will have this driver finished tonight or tomorrow, and will probably just use the same oscillator that I used previously. Until I figure out what to due....

Hi Machine!
Welcome back in workshop!
My driver is a well tuned entity and shall not modified and mised deliberately. But do not worry I support you . I do not know what your goal is:
A. Original Monster driver but replace SFH617 with FOD3180. This does not really make sense! But can be done - on request!

B. Enhancement of your current setup. I tinkerd for modifying the original monster dirver V5.1.
WARNING:
This version of driver does not have those superiour properties of the original circuit. It shall be used along FETs with gate capacity lower than 1.5nF. Else check frequently for heat.
For moderate use with smaller motors this circuit might be used. There is no power on delay and signals are not restored.

FOD3180 is FET driver with opto input - isolated! You are not suggested to feed the power from Arduino board as you want to have galvanic separation. But first facts first!

1. Your Arduino can source and sink those 10 mA you need to input. As the input LED at opto eats up 1.5V you consider 3.5V / 10mA and compute 350Ohm - take 330Ohm an it will be OK. Else use 1K for 12V generator.

2. Your Arduino sources very clear signals thus you do not need any conditioning. Please use two twistedcircuit
assembly
wiring bottom



EDIT: This circuit is NO revision of V51.1 posted before. It is a study of possible shortcut for lower power switch.

~o0o~

Regarding avalanche: It can be used safely if we add overcurrent protection. I did not touch this item up to now in order to not deviate.

~o0o~

JohnS

[prochiro]

@ JohnStone
Thanks JS, I know what to do with them.
Now on the circuit, I have breadboarded thru the 74hc132n and getting a 4.64 volt square signal. One interesting thing is that there are micro wiggles on both the top and bottom as well as the leading edge of on signal. I noted that when I took out the 1uF cap, the signal was perfect with hard corners. I know you must have another reason for the cap being there and can tolerate the wiggles. Moving on to the MIC4452YN unless I here from you. Thanks
Dana