My Motors got me to Tap into Radiant Energy

[torpex]

Hi all,

There are other questions in this schematic:



It is correct the value of R4 resistor to 10k? This sets the output, right?

It is correct the value of R1 resistor to 1k and R2 to 18K? If this is so the input current is too limited.

How do you set the frequency? Because VR is to adjust the pulse width, right?
This setup run with frequency fixed around 529 Hz and only adjust pwm (i think).

[iankoglin]

Kogs new setup

Where the coil terminates at the output to the load there is a fast acting diode


This stops the Hot energy and only allows the Radiant energy

Regards

PS

Perhaps I could try it with only 1 or 2 Mosfets as it is very expensive destroying 6 at a time

Kogs

[iankoglin]

Kogs new setup

Oscillator is probably right. except that at 1.5% duty cycle you don't have enough volts to turn on the fet.
Source is ground and should read 0 any time.

"

gate looks right except again not enough volts to turn on fet.
drain looks right.
volts before and after diodes are all wrong. I am not sure what you mean... before and after both diodes or which diode?

Where the coil terminates at the output to the load there is a fast acting diode


This stops the Hot energy and only allows the Radiant energy

Regards

[larryross]

G'Day Again
When I ran the machine I took some measurements Volts didn't make sense so I used another coil I had it is a 5 filar, 583feet each strand soldered the ends together so all were in parallel measured 1.32 Ohms still did not light the bulb Tried the bulb in the house socket it was OK

When I was running the machine the voltages were as follows
Battery 38.6v the Oscillator recieved always 12.4 v
I measured @ 3 different duty cycles neg probe on Batt neg
" 99% 50% 1.5% "
"Oscillator Out 10.4v, 4.7v, 0.2v "
"Source Bus 10.4v, 4.7v, 0.2v "

Oscillator is probably right. except that at 1.5% duty cycle you don't have enough volts to turn on the fet.
Source is ground and should read 0 any time.

"

Gate Bus 10.4v, 4.7v, 0.2v "
"Heatsink/Drain 38.6v, 38.6v, 38.6v "
Across Load Pos and Neg
"Before Diodes 0.0v, 0.0v, 0.0v "
"After Diodes 2.8v, 1.9v, 1.6v "

gate looks right except again not enough volts to turn on fet.
drain looks right.
volts before and after diodes are all wrong. I am not sure what you mean... before and after both diodes or which diode?

The bulb never even gave a flicker
Regards

[larryross]

G'Day Larry
Please how do you mean to check the output do you mean with a DMM? across the source/Drain and Gate /Drain?
Any imfo as to testing would be appreciated.

Also what Oscillator are you implementing?

BTW it is now 10:53 am Wednesday here
Regards

Ian
You will have to hook a different load on the fets and use a scope to see if you have pulses out to match the oscillator input. Load could be a 150 Ohm 10 watt power resistor. Also when you are doing that, check the time on voltage on the gate of the fet with a scope. Hmmm I forgot what problem you were having.

I am using the LM339 with dual complimentary output.



I know you guys down there see tomorrow before we do.

No not a ham operator, just wanted to through something new in.

Excuse my ignorance, but what is a tranny energizer? What could I do with it if I built one?

Regards
Larry

[prochiro]

Ian

This is what Bob put together from all the posts as his guide. Note that on the drawing that he put referance to the page he got each area from. I would also use the posted page as another referance to better understand it all. We have driven from two to six fets with it. What I myself will be doing is using the above mentioned driver from John Stone to drive the fets. It does not matter what you drive them with as long as it is accurate and strong enough to do the job. We are all feeling your stress with getting your setup running but in the end, it will be worth it.
Dana

[prochiro]

Cst

Larry
Sure I will answer, I like the NEW less negative Larry. The company we are getting it from is an all woman company (CST - The Composites Store, Inc.) Narrow Unidirectional Carbon Fiber | Page 1 of 1. Im not sure how thick it is, maybe 1/16 inch and it comes in 1 inch and 2 inch wide. It has a covering that works well to isolate and can just be rolled on or in the core. It comes in 4,12 and 300 foot rolls. The cost for a 300 foot roll of 2 inch is 245.00 but Bob has been doing his testing with the 12 foot 2 inch and that is 20.00. I felt that our results were good enough that we needed to test further so I ordered a 300 footer so we could try longer lengths as it it not a good idea to splice this stuff. We are just getting our feet wet in carbon and have a list of testing we plan to do once all the stuff gets here. Bob is doing overtime at work this week and I am slow and steady but we plan on getting our next tests set up over this next weekend.

Side Note: John Stone has given a PDF on his PWM and has recommended that if you are happy with your current setup that you not do his. I was happy with my setup but thought that if we are going to go ahead with this pulsing thing that the better control we have and the more sturdy setup we have, so much the better. I aggree with John about each making there oun choice but will have to say that that setup is presented in such a way that anyone can build it and repair it if neccessary and it is upgradeable. It will also, set up this way, pulse any circuit saving repeated construction. I am happy that I made it, actually three, each setup better and the third is in its own case which keeps it out of the way and able to power up anything due to the three differant driver/booster types he gave. I put small switches in instead of the rotory on my last one for the frequency caps and would note that you are not limited to four selections of frequency ranges. One can build most of it on strip boards and have little wire to mess with. Everything is cool and although I put a fan in the box, none is needed. I also used heavier transistors and found that this somehow gives better control.
Dana

[iankoglin]

Bobs Oscillator

G'day BoB and Dana
Is this the Oscillator you are both running


I thought that you were having trouble with it
Regards

[iankoglin]

Checking Fets

Ian
Keep in mind that if you have a coil with a 1 Ohm (that is almost a direct short) resistance and you hook 36V across it, it can pull up to 36 Amps. The coil would have to be wound with 6AWG wire to handle it at DC. With the way the circuit is built there is no way you can hook 36 volts across it (turn on FET) without pulsing it with a very short low frequency duty cycle (like maybe 10Hz and 5% on duty cycle or less if possible) without smoking something. The FET array can handle max 750W + some for heat sink maybe 1000W total.

Did you check the out put of the fets before you hooked up the coil?

Regards
Larry

G'Day Larry
Please how do you mean to check the output do you mean with a DMM? across the source/Drain and Gate /Drain?
Any imfo as to testing would be appreciated.

Also what Oscillator are you implementing?

BTW it is now 10:53 am Wednesday here
Regards

[iankoglin]

Pancake coil

Hi all
Has anyone ever tried using this for multifilar winding. This is 16 wires X 100', but it is only 28 AWG. I have more than 400 feet of it. Thoughts come back 10 4?

Regards
Larry

G'Day Larry
Try this

DMR 12 Tranny energizer pictures by Kogs1 - Photobucket

DMR Lives in Aus and is a member of BM forums he posted these detail Oct 2 2010
10 4 are you a ham radio operator?
Regards

[[email protected]]

CF coil

UFO,

I can't spend the time right now to tell you all the stuff that I have done lately, but I will get back to you in detail in hopefully in a day or two.

I posted pics in Photobucket, one of which is a commercially made (in Russia) spark gap bulb a little bigger than a NE-2 glowing purple.

I found that if I feed BOTH ends of the CF coil to one leg of an NE-2 and ground the other leg to me or a free-standing coil it glows. Then if I moved the ground to the Neg Output of the UFO device BOTH the NE-2 and the neon that I have on the Output get brighter.

Then if I ground the Neg. Input to a free-standing coil the output of the CF coil increases from, say, 86v to 130v...about 50%.

Gotta go,

Bob

[larryross]

Ian
Keep in mind that if you have a coil with a 1 Ohm (that is almost a direct short) resistance and you hook 36V across it, it can pull up to 36 Amps. The coil would have to be wound with 6AWG wire to handle it at DC. With the way the circuit is built there is no way you can hook 36 volts across it (turn on FET) without pulsing it with a very short low frequency duty cycle (like maybe 10Hz and 5% on duty cycle or less if possible) without smoking something. The FET array can handle max 750W + some for heat sink maybe 1000W total.

Did you check the out put of the fets before you hooked up the coil?



Regards
Larry

[larryross]

UFO
It seems that using the tape style of 2" carbon (which has its own covering) can be rolled over the core like a traditional wind and then the copper primary can be rolled on next which brings them even closer togeather. This works the same as long as the diodes are in place. One funny thing is that if you set up the coil that way, putting the intercore coil in does nothing.
Dana

Greetings Dana
I know you probably won't answer, but I am very interested in where you got the pre-covered carbon fiber tape... I have searched the net and haven't found anything. A 1/4 inch 6mm wide coated CF tape would be perfect. Are you sure the coating is electrically insulating?

Larry

[prochiro]

Screaming

Yes UFO, he will be screaming. And maybe for the first time in a long time I will be happy to hear a grown man scream. Ian has worked so hard on this and we are all keeping our ears to the wind to hear when he has success.
Good luck today and may the force be with you. Oh, and with your circuit.
Dana

[Ufopolitics]

Testing Measurements...

G'Day UFO
Thankyou for your perusal and comments
From past experience I have found that tooo many screw connections are undesirable so that could be my problem so today I rebuilt the part of the circuit that handles the mosfets and transistors and rewired it so as everything is exposed and you can see where everything goes.
I left the Voltage regulator and the 555Oscillator as they were.

I also drew a diagram showing the placement of the parts as I see them from your Happy Motor Diagram and diagram of your connections to mosfets etc.

I found now on 3 occasions I replaced the ON/Of Switch when I put the switch in the Bat negative to switch on/off it worked once and then would not switch off even though when I disconnected it from the circuit the DMM showed that is was apparently OK because when I switched it OFF there was no continuity and when I switched it on there was continuity

The diagran and photos are here

http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/aa350/Kogs1/Kogs%20UFO%20Photos/KogsUnhappyMotor.jpg

http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/aa350/Kogs1/Kogs%20UFO%20Photos/REbuild2.jpg

http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/aa350/Kogs1/Kogs%20UFO%20Photos/REbuild3.jpg

http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/aa350/Kogs1/Kogs%20UFO%20Photos/REbuild1.jpg

When I switched it on There was no response and after a few moments I used the thermometer and everything was cold EXCEPT the coil 50Deg C
The coil is one I had 5/.8mm Filar litzed 583 foot long the Ohms are measured 1.32

I am sure the Mosfets blew because I tested with an in circuit tester for transistors and they were dead.
I just do not seem to be able to figure out what is wrong

The wire colors are so as they are what I have on hand

Please How can I test with out switching it on
Kindest regards



Still trying

Hello Ian,

I have been over and over your circuit and after all my wrong assumptions and diagnoses...I found You have done an excellent job there!!
So, it must be something pretty minor going on there...And after re-reading all your previous posts with your readings ...We could say that if the oscillator and regulator are just working fine, then you should concern on checking your Mosfet's Board...and all cables that join boards to boards...grounds, positives and signaling wires, looking for bad or poor contacts...even your pot could be checked separated from circuit...measuring resistance as you dial up...etc,etc.

With reference to Positive (steady hooked a meter to Pos(+) check for negative (earth,grounds) (-) all over the whole thing, including Drain output.
Then do it from Ground reference...check all signals when leaving board to points of destination...and so on...that would give you an idea, even if it would be a cable broken inside(very odd, but possible).

Regards and let Us know...We are all anxious to hear you screaming that it already worked out!!


Regards


Ufopolitics