My Motors got me to Tap into Radiant Energy

[kassadum]

Getting parts in europe

Hi all (especially ufo)

After reading this post im at the point of starting my own crcuit
I decided to start with the 1. version of ufos pwmcircuit.
I hope i got it right:

1. u need a stable 12v source
2. next step is too turn it into a pwm signal and amplify it
3. then u use a coil to "filter" out the hot part

i hope i got it right because i am a little noob in electronic (only know the basics)
that means soldering and connecting or using meters or osciloscope is not the problem

The problem for me here in austria however is getting the parts....

i only know rs and conrad but i cant find the requierd parts (especially the 555?)

plz can anyone link me the parts required from one of these resellers?(its somehow confusing if u dont no the required specs of the parts due too not having the understanding in electronics)

thx in advance


i want too use this basic scematic first.(i hope thats the way to go)

Hello UFO,

I have edited the circuit diagram to be consistent with the other diagrams in the first few posts. Just trying to avoid confusion with the other members. I hope you don't mind.

Lester

[Cornboy 555]

Thankyou.

Thanks John, you are a champion.

[JohnStone]

See inserts in your text:

Thanks John, so if you supply the 12v regulator with a 12v 7a sla battery will it be enough to switch Fets properly?
NO: supply directly while omitting 12V regualtor.

For me it would be great to keep it simple as possible and to supply all driving electronics with a 12v battery completely seperate from motor power supply which will be a bank of 100ah deep cycle batteries, with 3 farrad audio caps across them, for inrush.
Got it - might be a common desire for others as well

There will be so many wires every where with 6 driver units, the more simple the better.
You are adviced to screw drivers and Arduino on a board and wire them there in order to pertain overview.

If you could show the best method to do that it would be great, sorry if this confuses anyone.
Please don't spend a heap of time on this John , No hurry, i am just preparing in advance.
No effort , you will get a block diagram

Just a small schematic showing hookup and resister values etc would be plenty, i can build anything from schematic.
I know absolutly nothing about Arduino, can it be altered while motor is running, or do you stop - reset and then Go?.

If it can be programed while electronics are running, i will need to buy another PC.
Arduino can be programmed while build in in the setup. But of course not while controlling the motor. It needs to be stopped before. While programming Arduino will fall in a deep winter sleep and will awake with a different personality (programm)
Another old PC will be an advantage and ease a lot but not absolute necessary.

Using DC/DC converter for Arduino sounds like a good saftey measure John, thanks.
I will regard it

Warm Regards Friend

Cornboy.

[Cornboy 555]

More Questions Sorry.

Hi Conboy,
you are fully right with your question. In this area everybody will enter in his own solution.

Let's look at detail:

• The FETs accept up to 20V max. at their gates.
• They are switched on fully to their spec at 10V.
• It is advantageous to have high voltage (let's say 18V) in order to transit fast through the real switching zone at switch on time.
• The next standard regulator is 15V needing 17V minimum at input.
• A 12V regulator needs 14V at input indeed. I choose this voltge because it is the minimum acceptable.

Of course you can use i.e. a motor cycle battery being fully charged (i.e. 13.5V) (omitting 12V or 15V regulator) and it will do fine.
For research phase it is essential to not supply electronics from power train in order to prevent any disturbance (i.e. radiant entering).
So for research we have 3 supplies:
- 5V for arduino
- 12V.....20V for driver
- xxV for power train

Any abbreviaton can be done but on own risc. i.e. you can omit opto and supply 5V to arduino from driver 5V directly: BUT - then you are warned to connect your PC to this assembly while switching FETs.

Please understand that general advice can be supplied on safe area only.

One safe setup would be to use your motor cycle battery directly omitting regulator 12V and adding a small DC/DC convertor inorder to supply Arduino. Then you are safe again. Might be confusing but sorry tere is a wealth of possibilities.
If you desire to supply all electronics from a separate battery I will elaborate this to the community on request.

Later on we will supply the electronics from power train by DC/DC PSU of course.
JohnS

Thanks John, so if you supply the 12v regulator with a 12v 7a sla battery will it be enough to switch Fets properly?

For me it would be great to keep it simple as possible and to supply all driving electronics with a 12v battery completely seperate from motor power supply which will be a bank of 100ah deep cycle batteries, with 3 farrad audio caps across them, for inrush.

There will be so many wires every where with 6 driver units, the more simple the better.

If you could show the best method to do that it would be great, sorry if this confuses anyone.
Please don't spend a heap of time on this John , No hurry, i am just preparing in advance.

Just a small schematic showing hookup and resister values etc would be plenty, i can build anything from schematic.
I know absolutly nothing about Arduino, can it be altered while motor is running, or do you stop - reset and then Go?.

If it can be programed while electronics are running, i will need to buy another PC.

Using DC/DC converter for Arduino sounds like a good saftey measure John, thanks.

Warm Regards Friend

Cornboy.

[JohnStone]

G'Day John
You are a real Gem I havent figured out what sort yet probably a red opal

Thanks for the mods I thank you that you did not connect C5 that you had in the schematic but not included on the PCB I spent a lot of time when drawing up this circuit trying to jumper the wires that crossed and as you realised I did this by making a 2pin jumper that you by passed. I was determined today to include the C5 and in doing so I had to figure how to add the jumper on top of the PCB
As you can see I did it

Here is the amended drawing

https://www.dropbox.com/s/ikbstff6nz...0%282%29.T3001

I did see those controls and have to fiddle with them to see exactly what they do.
and thanks again my friend
Kindest regards Kogs


with a thick head but slowly learning

[iankoglin]

Kogs gradually Learning

Hi,
I dared to modify your circuit in order to prevent misunderstanding. Here is my mod.

You performed quite well. Some minor errors from a beginner - you will master it.

Did you observe these controls for selecting:

The center one selects if you mark a whole symbol or its components like value and reference. Once picked you can rotate them by right mouse button ans reposition them.

Regarding voltge regulator: The resistors before opto LEDs is calculated for 12V. If you supply 12V all is ok. You can go up to 30V if you like but need to recalculate the resitors. Be sure the caps are rated for your supply!
JohnS

G'Day John
You are a real Gem I havent figured out what sort yet probably a red opal

Thanks for the mods I thank you that you did not connect C5 that you had in the schematic but not included on the PCB I spent a lot of time when drawing up this circuit trying to jumper the wires that crossed and as you realised I did this by making a 2pin jumper that you by passed. I was determined today to include the C5 and in doing so I had to figure how to add the jumper on top of the PCB
As you can see I did it

Here is the amended drawing

https://www.dropbox.com/s/ikbstff6nz...0%282%29.T3001

I did see those controls and have to fiddle with them to see exactly what they do.
and thanks again my friend
Kindest regards Kogs


with a thick head but slowly learning

[JohnStone]

Hey John, with all my thinking, i am thinking portable right from the start, even programing arduino.

It would be great to remove micro from driver unit to take to desk top and re program and replace to drive unit.

I still strugle with 12v 7812. i understand this is to supply VCC on micrel? specs are min 14v supply to IN on 7812 and yet AUX-PWR K8 is 12v+.

Am i looking at this wrong?

Regards Cornboy.

Hi Conboy,
you are fully right with your question. In this area everybody will enter in his own solution.

Let's look at detail:

• The FETs accept up to 20V max. at their gates.
• They are switched on fully to their spec at 10V.
• It is advantageous to have high voltage (let's say 18V) in order to transit fast through the real switching zone at switch on time.
• The next standard regulator is 15V needing 17V minimum at input.
• A 12V regulator needs 14V at input indeed. I choose this voltge because it is the minimum acceptable.

Of course you can use i.e. a motor cycle battery being fully charged (i.e. 13.5V) (omitting 12V or 15V regulator) and it will do fine.
For research phase it is essential to not supply electronics from power train in order to prevent any disturbance (i.e. radiant entering).
So for research we have 3 supplies:
- 5V for arduino
- 12V.....20V for driver
- xxV for power train

Any abbreviaton can be done but on own risc. i.e. you can omit opto and supply 5V to arduino from driver 5V directly: BUT - then you are warned to connect your PC to this assembly while switching FETs.

Please understand that general advice can be supplied on safe area only.

One safe setup would be to use your motor cycle battery directly omitting regulator 12V and adding a small DC/DC convertor inorder to supply Arduino. Then you are safe again. Might be confusing but sorry tere is a wealth of possibilities.
If you desire to supply all electronics from a separate battery I will elaborate this to the community on request.

Later on we will supply the electronics from power train by DC/DC PSU of course.
JohnS

[Rl2003]

Curcuit

Hi Mark,
no no no. Sorry this is no recent circuit. It was a misunderstanding with Machine. This circuit is a short cut if someone who wants to drive low amps and does not need to drive them fast.
The recent circuit is still V5.1. Sorry, I have not finished the current manual for this circuit.
JohnS

Ok John I got it, I am glad you cleared that up.

Mark

[Cornboy 555]

12v ?

Hi Cornboy,
if we agree to not use any shortcuts being dangerous for the setup causing in best case malfunction in experimenting stadium:

1. Power Arduino PWM from a separate PSU or PC directly.
2. Separate output signal bay optos.
3. Power whole driver from a separate PSU . Battery without 12V regulator will be ok but you need to get it charged and need to prevent interference by electromagentic fields. You need to connect the battery with short wires and + / GND running in prallel and twisted.
The circuit does not take much current -100mA will be max. imaginable. Any 12..15V Socket charger will do the same job!
4. MAG3 drive current is a completely separated PSU. The only connection to your driver PSU is via GND ON DRIVER BOARD itself!!!!
JohnS

Hey John, with all my thinking, i am thinking portable right from the start, even programing arduino.

It would be great to remove micro from driver unit to take to desk top and re program and replace to drive unit.

I still strugle with 12v 7812. i understand this is to supply VCC on micrel? specs are min 14v supply to IN on 7812 and yet AUX-PWR K8 is 12v+.

Am i looking at this wrong?

Regards Cornboy.

[JohnStone]

Good one Machine, look forward to you pulsing that beast with a monster.

@ Jonh Stone, i am preparing to build pulsing units for MAG3, i will use seperate 12v SLA to power drivers and 74HC so will use7805 for 74HC and direct power from battery with resistor, not 7812? am i looking at this correctly?

If this is correct i notice max input current for micrel is 50MA, what current would you recomend for powerfull but long opperation, and what wattage and ohm's value for resistor?

Displaying my very limited electronics knowledge here, these are basic questions, i know.

Thanks in advance Cornboy.

Hi Cornboy,
if we agree to not use any shortcuts being dangerous for the setup causing in best case malfunction in experimenting stadium:

1. Power Arduino PWM from a separate PSU or PC directly.
2. Separate output signal bay optos.
3. Power whole driver from a separate PSU . Battery without 12V regulator will be ok but you need to get it charged and need to prevent interference by electromagentic fields. You need to connect the battery with short wires and + / GND running in prallel and twisted.
The circuit does not take much current -100mA will be max. imaginable. Any 12..15V Socket charger will do the same job!
4. MAG3 drive current is a completely separated PSU. The only connection to your driver PSU is via GND ON DRIVER BOARD itself!!!!
JohnS

[JohnStone]

John Stone,

I have been out for the last week and have just started to catch back up
on some of the things being discussed.

It looks like this circuit has changed some, and I want to finish up on the
Eagle board layout.

Is this new circuit what I sould use now, or has there been more changes in
the last week?

Mark

Hi Mark,
no no no. Sorry this is no recent circuit. It was a misunderstanding with Machine. This circuit is a short cut if someone who wants to drive low amps and does not need to drive them fast.
The recent circuit is still V5.1. Sorry, I have not finished the current manual for this circuit.
JohnS

[JohnStone]

G'Day John
Here is my Updated Drawing

https://www.dropbox.com/s/a7pm9a4fn0...%20Ver2b.T3001

Please could you explain where
1. Two capacitors 100nF ceramic missing at pin 13 and 14 to GND .

2. does it fit across pos and neg after the diodes ?.

3. I want to use a voltage regulator so please what is the max voltage to input to this circiut ?.

4. Are the In400x diodes correct?

I really appreciate your input
Kindest regards


Always asking Questions

Hi,
I dared to modify your circuit in order to prevent misunderstanding. Here is my mod.

You performed quite well. Some minor errors from a beginner - you will master it.

Did you observe these controls for selecting:

The center one selects if you mark a whole symbol or its components like value and reference. Once picked you can rotate them by right mouse button ans reposition them.

Regarding voltge regulator: The resistors before opto LEDs is calculated for 12V. If you supply 12V all is ok. You can go up to 30V if you like but need to recalculate the resitors. Be sure the caps are rated for your supply!
JohnS

[Rl2003]

Moster Driver

Hi Machine!
Welcome back in workshop!
My driver is a well tuned entity and shall not modified and mised deliberately. But do not worry I support you . I do not know what your goal is:
A. Original Monster driver but replace SFH617 with FOD3180. This does not really make sense! But can be done - on request!

B. Enhancement of your current setup. I tinkerd for modifying the original monster dirver V5.1.
WARNING:
This version of driver does not have those superiour properties of the original circuit. It shall be used along FETs with gate capacity lower than 1.5nF. Else check frequently for heat.
For moderate use with smaller motors this circuit might be used. There is no power on delay and signals are not restored.

FOD3180 is FET driver with opto input - isolated! You are not suggested to feed the power from Arduino board as you want to have galvanic separation. But first facts first!

1. Your Arduino can source and sink those 10 mA you need to input. As the input LED at opto eats up 1.5V you consider 3.5V / 10mA and compute 350Ohm - take 330Ohm an it will be OK. Else use 1K for 12V generator.

2. Your Arduino sources very clear signals thus you do not need any conditioning. Please use two twistedcircuit
assembly
wiring bottom

~o0o~

Regarding avalanche: It can be used safely if we add overcurrent protection. I did not touch this item up to now in order to not deviate.

~o0o~

JohnS

John Stone,

I have been out for the last week and have just started to catch back up
on some of the things being discussed.

It looks like this circuit has changed some, and I want to finish up on the
Eagle board layout.

Is this new circuit what I sould use now, or has there been more changes in
the last week?

Mark

[IndianaBoys]

Hello Warren,

Great BUT...notice on video when you first start orange light comes out too strong...it should NOT be that way...you have some problems at the resistors (two) and the Potentiometer could be either not the right 250 KOhms...or have to adjust it to almost ZERO frequency at start.

Normally there always would be a first flash out at start...but then it should go off completely...and zero on frequency meters...then the dialing should be VERY SLOW...Radiant higher percentages/orange very low to NONE... should manifest at VERY LOW Pulses...

Remember Purple Light is Radiant...Hot is Orange...so that is your "Light Monitor" there...

I tell you what I did:

The two resistors that attach to POT, instead of using typical resistors...I used very small trimmers or very small potentiometers that could be regulated only with a small flat PLASTIC screw driver...NOW, the side that connects to Power Source Positive, no diodes, leg 4-8...be very careful adjusting it!...if you reduce resistance too low...you will definitively blow your Oscillator IC, so I recommend to adjust using a Meter hook to the two Trimmer terminals...NEVER BY EYES AND EARS!

Also set main POT Wiper at the LOWEST STARTING FREQUENCY STAGE (MAX Resistance Value) to do this adjustments.

I also used a VERNIER DIAL attached to POT shaft...this way you reduce the traveling when dialing by hand.

Last thing...this circuit should be grounded to chassis...to avoid interference with your hands ground and POT Regulations that normally tends to jump up the frequency at contact...

Vernier dialer's are isolated...but if using direct POT make sure the Knob is Plastic....You are dialing directly with your hands...NOT GOOD either!...This circuit is very sensitive.


Regards and hoping to see that Radiant Beautiful light soon!


Ufopolitics

UfoPolitics,

Ran across some great work WarrenSK is doing on Validation over at the Earth Ion Energy Forum:
VALIDATION 2

Subject: Asymmetrical Motor as Radiant Generator 3rd February 2013, 00:13
Hey all,

After building one of UFOPOLITICS modified asymmetric radioshack motors, I used the radiant output as the secondary in the circuit and got some interesting results. Since it has an input of hot and an output of radiant (Just like the circuit), I think a motor can be tuned to the environment this way. Perhaps it can be used to excite a larger coil into resonance. It's much like the schematic instead the coils are rotating in 3D and it also acts as a mechanical oscillator (no more burning out transistors and fets). Commutators can be modified for shorter switching times or faster off times. An array of asymmetrical wiring diagrams can be thought of and made with plexiglass, hole cutting drill bits and some super glue. Secondaries can be wrapped and connected with a dual commutator design much like teslas patents for his more advanced generators. I think Ill be heading the mechanical direction for oscillators and generators. Also going to try and make an ion valve and stimulate it with the output of the generator.


Asymmetric motor with radiant energy receiver circuit - Published on Feb 1, 2013
Asymmetric motor with radiant energy receiver circuit - YouTube

IndianaBoys

[iankoglin]

1.
Wow, that chip SG3532Two capacitors 100nF ceramic missing at pin 13 and 14 to GND.

.
- R1, R2 are calculated for about 12V operationg voltage (not less!)
- You might want to supply this circuit with a socket charger in order to not dedicate a lab PSU for this generator.

- Add a 1N400X diode at + supply pins in order to prevent damage by accidetly reverse power connections.

- Watch more tutorial vids! You will get perfect!


- The wires are seen from top of PCB as if PCB were transparent. If you want to etch you need to print it 1:1 regarding PCB border and flip the grafic in any grafic program.
- Grid: Shift F5 and switch grid on and set it to 100 mil (like bread boards) and set it to show every gird point (standard eery second). Then you have an imagination on distances. You can reduce distances.
- Adjust components to this grid. (select component, right mouse button, hit menue 4th choice from bottom "shift to grid").

Continue! You will get a master!
JohnS

G'Day John
Here is my Updated Drawing

https://www.dropbox.com/s/a7pm9a4fn0...%20Ver2b.T3001

Please could you explain where
1. Two capacitors 100nF ceramic missing at pin 13 and 14 to GND .

2. does it fit across pos and neg after the diodes ?.

3. I want to use a voltage regulator so please what is the max voltage to input to this circiut ?.

4. Are the In400x diodes correct?

I really appreciate your input
Kindest regards


Always asking Questions