My Motors got me to Tap into Radiant Energy

[sampojo]

Thanks Kogs!

G;Day sampojo ...
They may be toy size motors BUT they are for learning UFO did not ask people to buy $100 or $600 motors to show and explain what he wanted to disclose to us

My reservations on sinking the money on high power motors is hopefully only temporary and comes only from limitations of my time, electronics skills, and electric motor knowledge and skills, which I am progressing on. Every free moment off my full time job is going toward this. Thanks so much for any repeat information. I spend much time slogging thru the randomness of thread based technical information but still cannot find some things.

This one is what he called his happy motor ... because it will run a normal DC motor with Radiant Energy

This is exactly what I was looking for. Thanks immensely. What genius! I had been just reading between lines on posts referring to coils surmising that this is what Ufo was doing. I couldn't imagine where to start hooking things up.

Just being Helpful

Yes indeed, Ian

So, Ufo has posted that the plan was to use the coil motors as opposed to an additional (simple non-twisted bifilar, I think?) coil. Probably the generator side of a motor and/or the generator coils in a motor-generator hookup. But where on the Blackchisel updated Ufo circuit would the coil be hooked up?

CORRECTED as pointed out by Ian a few posts ahead!!


So it is intriguing to me to use the additional coil and I have read a post recently where he has recommended steel core over air core. Should I take that as the best in all cases, do you know? The motor goes to the +12v and ground I suppose? Is this wrong? Would that be because radiant is introduced? On his videos of some motor tests, no controller were yet introduced but that meant a full 36v was being applied.

Where would a controller be inserted in the happy motor dgm?



I feel like I have to pinch myself once in a while to make sure I am not in some sort of fairy tale dream about free energy

I will understand if I am like the kid with 20 questions...

TIA

[prochiro]

Arduino Code

Hello Hitby13kw
You have entered a lot of good videos here but have not read nico8k post number 3923. Both he and I use push buttons instead of pot as it is much more accurate in both frequency selection and duty cycle selection as well as a better tighter square wave. He shows how to put it on a breadboard in post 3923 and here I have a picture of it on top level of arduino. Note the simplicity.

http://i1079.photobucket.com/albums/w501/Prochiroone/PWM007_zpsdf4a27bb.jpg

Dana

[Hitby13kw]

Hello nico8k,


I am currently replicating Sir JohnS's Monster Driver V5.1 and want to use an Arduino as my oscillator.

Have been looking at several Utoops,

Tutorial 01 for Arduino: Getting Acquainted with Arduino
Tutorial 02 for Arduino: Buttons, PWM, and Functions
Tutorial 03 for Arduino: ElectricalEngineering Basics

Tutorial 04 for Arduino: Analog Inputs
Tutorial 05 for Arduino: Motorsand Transistors
Tutorial 06 for Arduino: SerialCommunication and Processing

Tutorial 07 for Arduino: I2CCommunication and Processing
Tutorial 08 for Arduino: SPIInterfaces
Tutorial 09 for Arduino: WirelessCommunication

Tutorial 10 for Arduino: Interruptsand Hardware Debouncing
Tutorial 11 for Arduino: SDCards and Datalogging
Tutorial 12 for Arduino: RFIDCard Reading

Tutorial 13 for Arduino: LiquidCrystal Displays (LCDs)
Tutorial 14 for Arduino: HolidayLights and Sounds Spectacular!
Tutorial 15 for Arduino: GPSTracking

Everything You Need To Know About Arduino

and have put togeather some code, however programing isn't my first language and rather than reinvent the wheel
thought you would already have the code worked up for 2 pots in, freq & duty cycle, with one LED output and LCD display of both.

I have the hardware togeather and can see the pots changing value but must have missed a comma


You seem to be the Arduino goto person in this group,
any help would be most appreciated, Thank you



Regards

Hitby13kw

[iankoglin]

UFO, Ian, Tomtom, or JohnS

Planning to move out of the toy motor size soon and looking at circuits. I am not getting the picture on John Stones monster driver yet, seems to contain new oscillator circuits, voltage regulation, amplification? I would hopefully be able with my levels of expertise in the various skills needed to maybe avoid starting at the basic UFO circuit at the beginning to understand the harvesting of Radiant energy. But maybe not. I would like to use some intermediate level circuit maybe to drive my RS replications. My plan involves one level up from the toy level. I have 4 motors with rotors the size of my palm I would like to wind, 10 poles, perhaps a generator style on one, very interested in making them an 8 brush motor like the Imperial. I can't justify investing a $1000 in an Imperial project until I convince myself I can build it. So for now I would like build a smaller series of motors and an intermediate driver circuit. Perhaps the UFO circuit instead of the monster driver circuit. I think operation in the few ampere range is adequate for next size motors. I don't understand why the UFO circuit is using 6 mosfets, is that just to be able to handle large current sizes of the imperial motor, and handles current in parallel, just adding them up to handle an imperial size motor? So for my next phase I won't be running at 36v(12, maybe 24), or at the higher amps. I am thinking I have a lot of parts on hand. For instance I have a MOSFET C5353, HV, operating at a lower 3 amp range. Surely I can get to work substituting parts on hand. Can I just use less mosfets and different types on the Blackchisel corrected UFO circuit? This was posted on P61, I think it is the Ufo circuit, but do not understand the latest correction yet. A quick point would be appreciated if it is not up to date.

Thanks all and happy motoring!

G;Day sampojo
They may be toy size motors BUT they are for learning UFO did not ask people to buy $100 or $600 motors to show and explain what he wanted to disclose to us In the first instance when the Naysayers /trouble makers arrived UFO spat the dummy he removed all his drawings and Videos from the forum and said he was not going to continue with all the CRAP being flung at him.
But after many of us pleaded for him to continue he did continue of which all those who beleived in what he was disclosing to us and others that have joined here are TRULY APPRECIATIVE of.

UFO had firstly showed us how we can use this technology to run a normal DC motor Those drawings were the ones that he did remove and were not reloaded the ones that are still on display are the ones that others included in thier posts.
This one is the corrected UFO's Mosfet driver he said he uses this one to run all his motors

https://www.dropbox.com/s/rlm9u90bnf...ckchisel97.jpg

This one is what he called his happy motor it is a more intuitive one than the one you have posted I did not have that one saved so I cannot display it but this one UFO said will run any DC motor provided you make the coils to match the motor you want to run

https://www.dropbox.com/s/w7dij44pqf...appy-motor.jpg

The next one is my rendition/build of his happy Motor

https://www.dropbox.com/s/rlj9hhii7p...HappyMotor.jpg

Thisdrawing is the way I built UFO's Happy Motor
He called it a Happy Motor because it will run a normal DC motor with Radiant Energy and this is without the motor getting Hot I ran my 250watt motor using this circuit it only always drew 200ma from the 36v (3 x 12v) car batteries but I was running this motor with up to 90V see it here

UFO's Circuit Running a MY1018 - YouTube

I tried to run a 1000w chinese motor with this circuit but the mosfets and coil got hot So I have made a larger coil and improving my Mosfet driver to match the motor I will let everyone know how it goes when I finish it

Also I used this same setup to light 5 CFL bulbs see it here

Kogs UFO Happy Motor Circuit - YouTube

Kindest Regards Kogs


Just being Helpful

[JohnStone]

So on the 555 ciruit, the mosfets appear bussed. Are they sharing current load then? So if I am building a smaller motor operating at a low current range compared to the Imperial, I could use fewer correct?.

Coil question: at the start of this thread, a large coil was used to generate RE.

I have seen some mention of a coil used recently here, maybe with a motor controller, but cannot find any specs. Is one being used to help feed the motor and where are the latest recommended specs, just an approximate point would be great.

But then on post 1640 and 1618 Ufo indicates we are using the motors coils instead. so it is just one of the motor hook-ups to the board then.

totally.

~o0o~

Coil construction was discussed in excess at beginning of this thread . 1 Ohm is recommended. You can use thick wire and then you can apply more windings for better performance. You should be able to test with and without ferrous core.

Begin any setup with car bulb in series in order to protect distruction by current being excessive. And begin it with low duty percentage for same resason.

The setups with coil only are for intriductory work. Later we replaced them by real motors. Nevertheless some tests can be done with motors and coils. But this is not the main stream intended.

[sampojo]

Thanks John Sone & coil question

So on the 555 ciruit, the mosfets appear bussed. Are they sharing current load then? So if I am building a smaller motor operating at a low current range compared to the Imperial, I could use fewer correct?.

Coil question: at the start of this thread, a large coil was used to generate RE.

I have seen some mention of a coil used recently here, maybe with a motor controller, but cannot find any specs. Is one being used to help feed the motor and where are the latest recommended specs, just an approximate point would be great.

But then on post 1640 and 1618 Ufo indicates we are using the motors coils instead. so it is just one of the motor hook-ups to the board then.

[JohnStone]

Hi Sampojo,
the monster driver is just waht it says - a driver. It can be contolled by any PWM oscillator - including micros. The driver makes use of current technology including powerful FET drivers and super FETs. Thus if you use standard FETs you require to connect several to one driver.
If you hesitate to spend money for 2 Infineon FETs you can use 2 or four quite normal ones and replece them later on.
Else follow recent posts utilizing 555 and transistors.

My personal decision was to build a driver only once. Thus I developed it and shared it.

My advice is to crowd up for 555 type or monster driver type and not add additional trials.
But there are plenty of other possibilities available. Unfortunately we can not help in any case of very unusual setups.
JohnS

[sampojo]

Some advice on the motor control circuit(s)

UFO, Ian, Tomtom, or JohnS

Planning to move out of the toy motor size soon and looking at circuits. I am not getting the picture on John Stones monster driver yet, seems to contain new oscillator circuits, voltage regulation, amplification? I would hopefully be able with my levels of expertise in the various skills needed to maybe avoid starting at the basic UFO circuit at the beginning to understand the harvesting of Radiant energy. But maybe not. I would like to use some intermediate level circuit maybe to drive my RS replications. My plan involves one level up from the toy level. I have 4 motors with rotors the size of my palm I would like to wind, 10 poles, perhaps a generator style on one, very interested in making them an 8 brush motor like the Imperial. I can't justify investing a $1000 in an Imperial project until I convince myself I can build it. So for now I would like build a smaller series of motors and an intermediate driver circuit. Perhaps the UFO circuit instead of the monster driver circuit. I think operation in the few ampere range is adequate for next size motors. I don't understand why the UFO circuit is using 6 mosfets, is that just to be able to handle large current sizes of the imperial motor, and handles current in parallel, just adding them up to handle an imperial size motor? So for my next phase I won't be running at 36v(12, maybe 24), or at the higher amps. I am thinking I have a lot of parts on hand. For instance I have a MOSFET C5353, HV, operating at a lower 3 amp range. Surely I can get to work substituting parts on hand. Can I just use less mosfets and different types on the Blackchisel corrected UFO circuit? This was posted on P61, I think it is the Ufo circuit, but do not understand the latest correction yet. A quick point would be appreciated if it is not up to date.

Thanks all and happy motoring!

[JohnStone]

[iankoglin]

Hi iankoglin,
I am a bit confused therefore I need to sort some items:
1. Sorry no target file available.
2. You want to drive a MY.... motor Ufo style?
3. How many amps do you expect as maximum (full throttle from zero speed) and when cruising (max. sped / max. throttle)
4. You intend to pulse this motor with one FET stage? Or have you another setup in mind? Why so many FETs. It would be cheaper to buy fewer high amp ones!
5. I recently posted a simlified (monster) driver with an opto / driver IC and protecting circuitry. There you can add your SG-circuit directly as generator.


Please note:
- Those 555 circuits as driver will do fine for lab tests but they are quite slow -> heating FETs. While cruising you have no control for heat.
- Realizing your intention requires protecting FETs! -> all those components at monster driver around FETs.

I do not question your plan but I need to know more of your thoughts in order to give qualified advice.
JohnS

G'Day John
I really appreciate all you do for us here
The target files 3 of them are imbedded into the word doc along with the "Fet Driver with 555/ver3" that you drew
When you showed us this circuit I decided to build it and ordered all of the parts I already had 50 STP11NK4OZ mosfets that I purchased when I was building UFU's 555 driver
I do intend to build these 2 circuits the SG3525 and the 555 Fet driver to drive a small Mobility scooter motor by Electric Motor Developments in Essex England (There was 2 motor on the Scooter of which I am making into one Modifies asymmetric motor which the specs on the unmodified motor are 24vDC 8 amp RPM 125 (it had a 1:50 gearbox on it) and output 120watts. I want to use this motor to fit on my bicycle.
Then I want to make a larger driver using the large coil arrangement in my dropbox to drive a ZY 1020F motor 1000w 48vDC 20.8 amp Chinese by I purchased 2 in Aus I want to drive an unmodified motor in a Tricycle I am going to build to see what it can do and after when I am able to get another on (end of March) I will modify the two to an asymmetric motor and then fit into the Tricycle and compare how it goes against the unmodded one.
By this time I will have enough experience at winding motors to continue on with the P56 Motors of which I will purchase better faster Mosfets and build your Monster Fet driver
I imagine you mean one Fet stage is 1 Fet driver with 2 Fets On my previous UFO driver there was 8 Mosfets so I was going to build both of my drivers using 4 stages and that is why I asked you Please another question
With the SG3525 Oscillator How many Opto's do you think I could run and could I use the bottom Opto's or just have more top ones and delete the bottom ones? In Steven Cerovic he had 3 opto's on the top and 4 on the bottom as I imagine I could use this Oscillator to drive probably 8 stage mosfets if required.
Please John here is the link to my Drop box folder with all the relevant pics of the large coil and T3001 circuits I am talking about


https://www.dropbox.com/sh/6cy658nuph8vedn/Xaf9ChlXM7

Kindest Regards


Still really trying

[JohnStone]

Hi iankoglin,
I am a bit confused therefore I need to sort some items:
1. Sorry no target file available.
2. You want to drive a MY.... motor Ufo style?
3. How many amps do you expect as maximum (full throttle from zero speed) and when cruising (max. sped / max. throttle)
4. You intend to pulse this motor with one FET stage? Or have you another setup in mind? Why so many FETs. It would be cheaper to buy fewer high amp ones!
5. I recently posted a simlified (monster) driver with an opto / driver IC and protecting circuitry. There you can add your SG-circuit directly as generator.


Please note:
- Those 555 circuits as driver will do fine for lab tests but they are quite slow -> heating FETs. While cruising you have no control for heat.
- Realizing your intention requires protecting FETs! -> all those components at monster driver around FETs.

I do not question your plan but I need to know more of your thoughts in order to give qualified advice.
JohnS

[iankoglin]

Hello, Dana,
I thank you for the support. If no Shematic where had till present these Ground connection is marked. Kassadum has to me a shematic with this connection hand over. If I test tomorrow immediately sometimes.
Thanks
greets
tomturbo80

G'Day tomturbo80
Here is the circuit that UFO used and been corrected it works great
Here it is here
https://www.dropbox.com/s/ohk45qzffs...ckchisel97.jpg

and working here

------------------------------------------------------
Kogs Sees The LIGHT Video by Kogs1 | Photobucket

----------------------------------------------------------
Also here
UFO's Circuit Running a MY1018 - YouTube

Kogs UFO Happy Motor Circuit - YouTube

With this UFO happy motor circuit I used the above corrected Controller

Kindest Regards
Kogs

Just trying to help

[tomturbo80]

Hi tomturbo80
As I recall that circuit worked as shown. There was two versions of that circuit. The one you should be working on has a wire from D3 running more or less straight down to ground on bottom of picture. Are you using 36 volts? That might make the difference. The 47K's are so high resistance that removing them should not make that much difference unless you had them tied in series rather than parallel. I believe they were to prevent overload as a pull-down to get fets off fast. Check your circuit for any other difference in parts and correct method of wireing. Helping you is our pleasure, just make sure that every posted question keeps us informed of the exact circuit you are working on as JohnStone asked. UFO has gotten a lot of miles on that circuit.
Dana

Hello, Dana,
I thank you for the support. If no Shematic where had till present these Ground connection is marked. Kassadum has to me a shematic with this connection hand over. If I test tomorrow immediately sometimes.
Thanks
greets
tomturbo80

[iankoglin]

[/QUOTE]

G'Day John
I have included a WORD doc that contains drawings and T3001 circuits
I have been busy drawing up Your Fet Driver with 555 ver 3
each one of these drivers is connected to my SG3525 PWM
I will have 0ne driver from each each of the top 3 opto's as these ones are I believe on when the square wave is high, the bottom 3 Opto's are when the square wave is low each driver will drive two mosfets with short same length twisted DC high current leads that will allow me to drive 6 mosfets

Please if you have some time to paruse these T3001 circuits for me and let me know if they should be OK I would appreciate it as I want to build them and test them.

And after the testing Proves OK then I want to drive a small mobility scooter motor modified with these 6 mosfet in my Happy motor circuit with 36v (three 12v car batteries in series) and using voltage regulators to step down the voltage for firstly the SG3525 Oscillator then again for the NE555 Mosfet drivers.

Please another question
With the SG3525 Oscillator How many Opto's do you think I could run and could I use the bottom Opto's or just have more top ones and delete the bottom ones?

Here is the link to the Word doc

https://www.dropbox.com/s/2341hp2yu1...t%20driver.doc[
Kindest Regards Kogs

[JohnStone]

@JohnStone
John, which resistor should I play with to get better pulse after the opto. I am getting improper mix and always on state into IC4. Is it the 470 Ohm resistor? What ever one it is may need to be greater resistance. System supply is 18V and getting a clean 12 volts thru 7812.
Dana

Sorry - optos seem to refuse cooperating with you

Test procedure:
1. disconnect generator from driver board and energize driver board
2. check opto pin 4 to have 5V
... if not you have wrong 5V supply or wrong wiring
3. check opto pin 3 to have 0V
.... if not -> your opto output is defective (shorted collector emitter) or R1 is not 470R or wrong wiring. (R1 is calculated for 10mA@5V)
4. connect at connector K1
.....pin 3+4 / 2+1 / verify pin 1 to be on GND
.....LED from 12V to K1 pin 5
5. disconenct LED from 12V / disconenct pin 1+2
6. Check generator output to pulse with 12V
..... R2 is calcualted for 12mA@12V
..... for generator 5V pulse make R2 to eb 470Ohm
7. connect GND of generator to K1 pin 2 and output to LED at pin 5
.... LED shall blink with frequency
.... opto pin 3 shall go high if LED at K1 pin 5 is on and vice versa

- Please check and post at what action you get stuck.
- Please post your gen output circuit. Is it a push pull output like 555 or LM324/358 or pull down with pullup resistor like LM339/393 .......

BTW: I just detected the drawing of opto is erroneous. The letters E an C neeed to be changed - but the pin numers are OK.

Good luck!
JohnS