Free Energy At Last Step By Step Must See

[mikkyo]

i tried that schematic and had no success at all, the computer fan just rocked back and forth .that is when i decided to take a nail and figure out the magnetic configuration of the computer fans , which was quite different than i had theorized.
...snip...

The stator coil layout in the dual transistor circuit looks just like the fans I've been using.
It looks like one just needs to add a tap on 2 of the coils so they can be driven individually.
I think I'll give it a try.

[**~Imhotep~**]

There is anyone that can post a PCB layout of the circuit?

This is the basic sketched rough layout. If anyone wants to cad it be my guest. Ricks circuit is pretty much double that basic design. Hope it helps. its pinouts are precise for to3 or the tab transistor the rest is self explanatory. You can use resist pen and traditional etching methods or you can cad it out and use photo method. Good luck have fun

[patmac]

I like that setup, magnest pass over coil front to front, without inclinations... Must be much more efficient, better magnet passes = more free energy.

[Philosopher]

There is anyone that can post a PCB layout of the circuit?

[theremart]

Hi

i hooked up my fans output in parallel ,in other words i connected the diodes off a few together (cathodes) and i only used one return negitive to the source positive it worked fine accelerated the charge rate.as i said before it depends on the coils (larger coils =larger spikes) .i have not series hooked the fans yet (that should raise the resistance and change the dynamics of the configuration )i will be experimenting in the future with that and report any good findings .i also bought a real large fan from radio shack on clearance .it was very large ,probably huge spikes.
i also got a scope to look at the spikes finally. when i hooked more than three fans output together the fourth one started on it own ,surprized me a little bit. i also took the output and ran it into a large cap and put a second diode after the cap and it smoothed the output to the charge battery ,i used a 3300 mf 25 volt and a second 1n4007 on the positive post of the cap. i will report any new findings i also acquired 30 -6 volt lead acid batts from a computer recycler today for a good deal , very nice dealer. they will work for the battery bank i am designing.

Thanks for the info.

[**~Imhotep~**]

Ok ,for the neon ,no problem.I tried my first charging and after some hours, I got some strange high values on my instruments,but no substantial charge.I have read this phenomenon is called "surface charge".Is it normal?
Can I use a different source voltage than the charging battery?
Thank you for the assistance;I'm new to the Bedini tech,and I dont know how it works,almost.
Regards,
Philosopher

if you take the charge battery off and take measurements on the output with inexpensive meters, the readout will not be stable ,i think because the spikes are to fast for the meter . i have one meter that captures the readings ,it is a very expensive true rms fluke (350$) and sometimes as i was monitoring the charge voltage it would surge then settle back down .no problems on the batteries so far, as far as surface charge i am not sure what that means ,bedini probably knows but i do not. as far as source voltage i have used a variable power supply and took them up to 24-36 volt with out problems.

[**~Imhotep~**]

Imhotep, did you try this circuit before arriving at your current one and if so, how well does it perform in comparison?

i tried that schematic and had no success at all, the computer fan just rocked back and forth .that is when i decided to take a nail and figure out the magnetic configuration of the computer fans , which was quite different than i had theorized.
the schematic that you are referring to is a mono pole design i believe ,like the school girl energizer.
because it has a mono pole design with unidirectional spikes it probable charges much better.the only problem i had was either changing the magnetic structure of the computer fans or change the coils and circuit ,so since i could not find the fans rick used , i decided to change the coils and circuit. some of my fans have to run for days to charge larger batts but because the current draw is much lower than the original circuit design they run for a long time on a large car battery (days). one of the fans i took reading on ran off 12v at 250 ma that =3watts i think if my math is correct. and put out 60 v at .05 ma =3 watts if my math is correct . so thats = plus i get air flow for free .(your calculations might be different this is only what i got ) the main point of this project is to take an effect that they throw away and try to use the effect ,then build or adapt multiple ones or bigger one to enhance the effect.
i try not to make any claims on these fans because every ones experience will be different so your effect might be better or not as good .if you try ricks schematic i believe you will need a mono pole magnetic structure and rewind the coils according to his specifications and do the circuit as he has designed (probable much better results)

[**~Imhotep~**]

Well I LOVE the yahoo group Freecycle. I picked up 3 dead power supplies yesterday, and I got 2 working fans out of the deal. I found that hotmelt glue works on the 4th post fairly well.

But good to know that I can get more fans working these came right off... much bigger being a power supply fan verses my cpu fan..

I was wondering how do you hook up multiple fans together

Anyhow progress is good.

i hooked up my fans output in parallel ,in other words i connected the diodes off a few together (cathodes) and i only used one return negitive to the source positive it worked fine accelerated the charge rate.as i said before it depends on the coils (larger coils =larger spikes) .i have not series hooked the fans yet (that should raise the resistance and change the dynamics of the configuration )i will be experimenting in the future with that and report any good findings .i also bought a real large fan from radio shack on clearance .it was very large ,probably huge spikes.
i also got a scope to look at the spikes finally. when i hooked more than three fans output together the fourth one started on it own ,surprized me a little bit. i also took the output and ran it into a large cap and put a second diode after the cap and it smoothed the output to the charge battery ,i used a 3300 mf 25 volt and a second 1n4007 on the positive post of the cap. i will report any new findings i also acquired 30 -6 volt lead acid batts from a computer recycler today for a good deal , very nice dealer. they will work for the battery bank i am designing.

[mikkyo]

Imhotep, did you try this circuit before arriving at your current one and if so, how well does it perform in comparison?

[theremart]

At Last!

Well I LOVE the yahoo group Freecycle. I picked up 3 dead power supplies yesterday, and I got 2 working fans out of the deal. I found that hotmelt glue works on the 4th post fairly well.

But good to know that I can get more fans working these came right off... much bigger being a power supply fan verses my cpu fan..

I was wondering how do you hook up multiple fans together

Anyhow progress is good.

[Philosopher]

Ok ,for the neon ,no problem.I tried my first charging and after some hours, I got some strange high values on my instruments,but no substantial charge.I have read this phenomenon is called "surface charge".Is it normal?
Can I use a different source voltage than the charging battery?
Thank you for the assistance;I'm new to the Bedini tech,and I dont know how it works,almost.
Regards,
Philosopher

[ren]

I made a mistake;as battery source I mean charging battery.With 9 volts,and the charging battery disconnected,the neon glow only when I start the fan with my hands and I hear the squealing sound.As soon as it reach speed and the squealing sound ceases, the neon dont glow anymore.Its different with 12 volts:the neon glows also at full rpm.In both cases only oned side of the neon glows;to me is the side connected to the emitter.To the other side I have a series resistor for the 110 VAC.What can I do to make the neon work also at 9V with the charging battery disconnected and the fan at full speed?

Hi Philosopher,

The neon glowing on one terminal is ok. It is an indication that you are getting about 50-90 volts. If you can get it to flash purple or crimson you are probably getting over 100volts. Some of my smaller replications just lit up off one terminal, one of my larger ones flashes brilliant purple upon disconnect.

Dont worry too much about the neon, it has been said may times it is there for protection. Some ways it can be bigger is with higher voltage on the front, more windings, different gauge/tune etc. You could probably try removing the resistor or find some pigtail neons that dont have that resistor. The most inportant thing is that your battery is charging on the back end.

For 9 volts you may or may not be able to get a neon to light consistently. You could fiddle with your pot a little and this might improve it, but theres not much sense tuning for sweet spots if the load isnt attached on the back end (i.e. the charging battery).

[**~Imhotep~**]

it all depends on the windings on the fan you use .
they are all different some of mine would not run on 9 volts ,and some i had to run on 24 volts
it depends on the fan. some of mine ran on 15 watt solar cell while others had to have 45 watt cell to run and charge (total free energy )its all a journey .
some had the neon glow all through the range of the potentiometer . go figure . have fun and experiment and try to do a few of them if you can to compare.

[Philosopher]

i have noticed that when the neon glows it only hits the hv on the collector side of the neon , i believe because the other side is at ground potential ,im not sure why? on my fans there is a tipping point on some, not all of them where the neon no longer glows and the rpms increases people call that tweaking the fan (rick balances his fans to draw the least amount of current while still giving spikes or neon pulses to the charge battery) it depends on what you want to achieve with you fan ,work (air flow or charge ) de-sulfating which is called conditioning the cell .
if you just want reduced current draw then adjust for no neon glow. if you want maximum charge make the neon glow as much as possible.
i am not sure what you mean by disconnecting the battery source? did you mean the charge battery ?
if you mean the charge battery then that is why you get the neon pulses . when the charge battery is connected the neon will not glow. because the battery is absorbing the spikes.

I made a mistake;as battery source I mean charging battery.With 9 volts,and the charging battery disconnected,the neon glow only when I start the fan with my hands and I hear the squealing sound.As soon as it reach speed and the squealing sound ceases, the neon dont glow anymore.Its different with 12 volts:the neon glows also at full rpm.In both cases only oned side of the neon glows;to me is the side connected to the emitter.To the other side I have a series resistor for the 110 VAC.What can I do to make the neon work also at 9V with the charging battery disconnected and the fan at full speed?

[Bodkins]

Hi everybody, I'm new both to this forum and whole free energy business and I must admit I was a bit skeptical, but from what I see in this thread, there sure must be some true in it.

I'm planning to attempt to build this motor, but I have no neon bulb. I have no credit card so I can't order it from e-bay, and I just can't find it in local electronics stores. Is there a way around it? Perhaps a strong resistor or something?

The other thing that was bothering me was the fact that although this Bedini motor produces more power than it consumes it can't charge the battery it is drawing power from, but it can charge some other more than it consumes from the first. So why hasn't anybody tried to include a mechanism that will switch from one battery to another every couple of hours? Those cheap Made in China alarm clocks use so small amounts of energy they can run for years on a single battery, just cut off minute and second hands so that they are not in the way and leave only the hour hand. Place two contacts on opposite sides of the dial and one on the hand itself and you're done. Just add some more wiring and you have a mechanism that will switch the powering and charging batteries every six hours.

Or I could be wrong...

First weclome sir


Im not using a fan for my capture but its the same idea.
your talk of battery swapping this is somthing i tryed with a manual switch ever 20mins! it worked very well, so now im trying to swap the batterys ever pulse, its really hard to get the batterys to swap place. Im trying relays with a 555 timer.

I really dont now if this can be done.
Pulse,Capture,Swap,Pulse.etc.
The one thing that keeps me awake at night is do,s the transitser close on its our or do i have to stop the 0.7volt to it?

BUT what im are working on is a telsa switch

http://www.energeticforum.com/renewable-energy/962-use-tesla-switch.html

Good luck