Bedini Earth Light

[plengo]

One more thing i forgot to share.

Some cells likes to operate under the Oscillators. They give a lot more current when under the oscillator or shorted while other cells like to be without the oscillators and they usually live at the 1 to 5ma range.

So those cells without oscillator when put 3 or more in series you can light LEDS very brightly for a long time while the ones that likes the Oscillators will only need one cell.

I noticed that the cells like to give as much current as they can. The oscillators are very capable of doing exactly that. They can extract as much current as possible and therefore works great for those cells.

What I have been doing to not have to use the oscillator is to put many LEDs in parallel. Now my bigger cells are running with around 3 to 6 LEDs in parallel wich requires a larger amount of current to be delivered by the cell while giving a good amount of light.

Fausto.

[plengo]

I created a new cell using MnO2 that is mixed with different compounds. I am trying around 5 different combination with this new ingredient.

Some of the cells I leave it open to the air and other I enclose it in Aluminum HVAC duck tape which is excellent and air tight.

The cells that are open to the air simply loose too much power too fast and no matter how much water you put it in. The enclosed or air tight cell runs very well and only needs a little bit of water every 3 weeks or so to full brightness again.

I can conclude that Oxigen WILL KILL the cell when using Magnesium (Mg). I don't know why but the outcome of two different setups is very repeatable and obvious. I don't think it is the water containment in this case.

Off course the water makes things work but when it has too much Oxigen somehow the cell stops working so since Oxigen is the most important element in Oxidation (aka. Galvanization and deterioration) I think that one of the secrets is indeed keeping the amount of available Oxigen to its minimun so that Water (H2O) is the only element to give it up.

Now, that goes very inline with Bedini's concepts of keeping the water locked int the molecule such as XXXX5H2O compounds such as Epson salts, Rochelle Salts and so on.

Cooking this particular cell with MnO2 also works very well. The biggest problem is how to make water go through the whole cell as it grows in size. My cells now are 3" height and 2" Diameter so that is a lot of more material for the water to go through.

The black or gray oxidation over the Mg stops at a certain point and either the cell dies or if using the correct formula and "geometry" the cells still keeps going even after ALL the Mg is transformed into gray material. Figures why!

My first cell is still running with a drop of water after one month. She is now old since August last year. The 1/4 cap size cell with no oscillator.

Fausto.

ps: I got this email today: [NOW AVAILABLE] TigerDirect.com - INTRODUCING THE WORLD'S FIRST HOME MINI-NUCLEAR GENERATOR

[cgalvisardila]

beware of the april fools...

[Allwest]

Hi All

Check out the latest cell

I am calling this The Allwest Tooth Paste Power Cell

Allwest Power Cell # 3 - YouTube

[Lidmotor]

The self-watering Plengo cell

[QUOTE=FrozenWaterLab;186680]

@All
The "self-watering" setup that I showed in my last video has a problem----too much watering. Last night the cell over watered itself and drown. It was way down in power this morning but did recover when it dried out. The trick is getting a wicking setup to just give the cell a tiny amount of water. It is very similar to adjusting the flame on a keroscene lantern.

Hi Lidmotor
I was wondering if a wick off the cell would allow excess water to evap.
I was thinking to try running the water through the cell so to speak to see if it might increase the output but your half way there and I'm soooooooooooo
slow. Just thought I'd mention it.
I envision a wick from the water container to between the Mg and the Crystal media then a wick on the other side of the Crystal media and whatever is used for the pos element to hang out in the air. Maybe spread out to allow for good evaporation. Might be able to kinda draw the water thru ????
Might be good to try in the other direction also, one way might work better than the other. who knows haha
I am very impressed with your step by steps. Keep up the good work.
FrznWtr

Thanks for bringing that up. I have been meaning to mention what happened with that cell. It was a major success when I finally got it working right. It is the Plengo cell that has the copper cap and the piece of anode Mg in the middle. I put about an 1/8" of water in the capped clear plastic container and it works great. The cotton string wicks the water up and onto the top of the cell at the right rate now. When the water is just about gone in the container I just add 1/8" more. It depends on the air humidity how fast the water is used. We have between 50% and 70% here in Southern California at the coast.
Your "sandwich" idea might work also.

Lidmotor

[FrozenWaterLab]

[QUOTE=Lidmotor;180329]@All
The "self-watering" setup that I showed in my last video has a problem----too much watering. Last night the cell over watered itself and drown. It was way down in power this morning but did recover when it dried out. The trick is getting a wicking setup to just give the cell a tiny amount of water. It is very similar to adjusting the flame on a keroscene lantern.

Hi Lidmotor
I was wondering if a wick off the cell would allow excess water to evap.
I was thinking to try running the water through the cell so to speak to see if it might increase the output but your half way there and I'm soooooooooooo
slow. Just thought I'd mention it.
I envision a wick from the water container to between the Mg and the Crystal media then a wick on the other side of the Crystal media and whatever is used for the pos element to hang out in the air. Maybe spread out to allow for good evaporation. Might be able to kinda draw the water thru ????
Might be good to try in the other direction also, one way might work better than the other. who knows haha
I am very impressed with your step by steps. Keep up the good work.
FrznWtr

[NickZ]

@ Allwest and All:
You'll need to make a low draw oscillator like the ones in my pictures below.
I got some cells running on 0.4 volts, and anywhere from 2 mA to 60mAs from the two different circuits and carbon/ aluminum cells shown below. Pictures are showing the aluminum tubes that were filled with carbon/sand mix to make my new cells.
I also made a video, sorry it came out so dark. I must have been in a romantic mood...
Activated Carbon/Aluminum- wet beach sand cells- - YouTube

[Allwest]

How can you produce these such high voltages with just one cell??? Mag and copper again?? or something else?? Is it over 3 volts or just milivolts?
Thanks.
Jean

The volts range 3.5 to 3.8, but I am only getting 5Ma

I am not sure anything can run on this power?

[griplets]

@CrystalDipoleMatrix

If you're worried about these batteries being a "hoax", then build some! Bedini has already shown how to build many lower power cells. Like his Depolarizer Cell, I think he called it. He posted a step by step video of it. And while magnesium may be a high energy metal, leaving a load of even 5-10 Milli-Amps on a battery 24/7, can add up very quickly. If the battery isn't built correctly you're going to know it fast. The magnesium will degrade, and the output will start dropping.*

Bedini's batteries are the real deal though. All we need is more power. But the current batteries are more than enough evidence. Bedini has been very open and kind about all this, and I've built too many batteries according to his instructions to think anything but that these are the real deal.

Sorry if this seems like a rant. I mean no disrespect toward anyone. But it just disturbs me to hear Hoax and Bedini in the same paragraph. Anyway, my 2 cents...

I agree 100%. I too feel annoyed when I read anything like those two words together.

[MonsieurM]

Thank you Lidmor for the the vid

on a side note .... water has many properties you could test your batteries :

test with temperature hot / warm / cold water

ph differences alkaline vs acidic water

but the interesting one that can be done easy:



you can add magnets to the central part ... also called M State water

thought you might be curious to test it on your already made Crystal Batteries

more info here : http://www.energeticforum.com/186558-post2530.html

also

The five (5) components of acid water are as follows:

Low pH from 2-4
High ORP from +800 to +1200
Micro clustered.
Hypochlorous acid component from 1-30 mg/l
Heavy in H+ which acts as an oxidizer.

[shawnnweed]

Just a quick read on wikipedia show me that it's non-abundent and radioactive. You dont want to play with that ####!

so is your cell phone but a shoe-boxed sized battery will not create any more radiation than said cell phone yet should be able to create 9 amps non stop for a lifetime.

[ibpointless2]

@All
John sent me two large crystal cells about three weeks ago with materials for building replications. I have been occupied with family matters but I did do simple testing of his cells and was able to make a small replication cell using the materials that he sent.


John Bedini Crystal Cell--- Testing and a replication - YouTube


I will leave it up to John and Chuck to explain the cells dynamics.

Lidmotor

Great work Lidmotor!




@John Bedini

It looks like the cells you sent Lidmotor were pressure cells? Have you charted these cells yet? They're very interesting, almost magical?

[Lidmotor]

Testing of two of John's cell ---and my small replication

@All
John sent me two large crystal cells about three weeks ago with materials for building replications. I have been occupied with family matters but I did do simple testing of his cells and was able to make a small replication cell using the materials that he sent.


John Bedini Crystal Cell--- Testing and a replication - YouTube


I will leave it up to John and Chuck to explain the cells dynamics.

Lidmotor

[CrystalDipoleMatrix]

It's radioactive!

Have any of you read the new thread on thorium battery suppresion by five inventors; some from different countries?

Just a quick read on wikipedia show me that it's non-abundent and radioactive. You dont want to play with that ####!

[voire]

Hi John, I know for sure that magnesium is a high energy metal. It takes a very very little galvanic action to produce some current for a long long time without seeing visual deterioration. I just hope that the cuprous copper and the manganese III oxides are a foot step to the infinity battery. I dont want to waste my time and I have put all my trust in you since day one. We know in this case, that we cannot pull any conclusion without long range current supply testing but I hope it's not an hoax. I do know for sure that your not a fool.

Well appreciate, Jean.

@CrystalDipoleMatrix

If you're worried about these batteries being a "hoax", then build some! Bedini has already shown how to build many lower power cells. Like his Depolarizer Cell, I think he called it. He posted a step by step video of it. And while magnesium may be a high energy metal, leaving a load of even 5-10 Milli-Amps on a battery 24/7, can add up very quickly. If the battery isn't built correctly you're going to know it fast. The magnesium will degrade, and the output will start dropping.*

Bedini's batteries are the real deal though. All we need is more power. But the current batteries are more than enough evidence. Bedini has been very open and kind about all this, and I've built too many batteries according to his instructions to think anything but that these are the real deal.

Sorry if this seems like a rant. I mean no disrespect toward anyone. But it just disturbs me to hear Hoax and Bedini in the same paragraph. Anyway, my 2 cents...