Bedini Earth Light

[b_rads]

LED Light and Charger

Here is an update on the power of the chili powder cell 16 days old, no water was added after it was created

Allwest power cell # 6 - YouTube

The products are listed in the video, I meant to say in the video that the dry-out product was supposed to keep it moist, not dry, although it does not seam to be wet

Fausto,
On the open cells that I have created, the dry-out keeps the cells damp with never adding water, may save you some time, it also seams to add more power, just a thought to try


br0ns0n77,
Here is a quick easy and cheap LED light -low voltage setup with switch, I was around $1.29

Best of luck to all

@Allwest,


Keep up the good work.

[br0ns0n77]

Cell Temperature

I've seen some saying a higher temperature seems to bring up the amps. I can confirm that to some extent. Initially for the first few minutes when adding heat, the cell does go up dramatically, but then it levels off and slowly starts ticking down again. I was successful in finding a method of keeping the amps higher than normal with adding and subtracting heat. Using a hair dryer, I got the amps up to the level off point with heat, then once the amps started dropping I immediately pushed the cold air button on the dryer and the amps sky rocketed momentarily, then started declining again.

This tells me that it's the difference in the hot and cold that is keeping the amps higher than normal. I was able to keep the amps from declining on load by moving the heat off and on the cell. Now how this could be applied to be useful, I have no idea. I just made an observation on how thermal difference affects these cells. Hope it may be helpful to someone.

Good luck!!

[NickZ]

At 100 grams of that aluminum for $150, they are not giving it away...

We need to protect the metals by forming a layer of oxides, as without the oxide layer the metal turns to mush. That's the trick that John mentioned to us several times, we've got to "fool the metals" to transfer the ions, without the normal electric currents eating things up.
Possibly, ions flux is similar to magnetic currents, which can pass through anything, but are not like a physical material substance, and more similar to photons.

There is a new type of magnesium alloy that has been invented for use with fuel cells, which does not break down, but I forget where I saw it advertized, maybe someone posted the link to it here.

I just connected 6 cells together in series, but only got 2.5 volts, and 10mA. So neither series nor parallel placement works too well for me.
It is lighting three leds pretty bright though. But, not only a little brighter than what my strongest single cell can do.

[br0ns0n77]

Nick,

This may be the cure for the aluminum


150 - Aluminum Gallium Alloy 99.99% 100 grams Free Shipping! - GalliumSource

Thanks so much for the help!

[Allwest]

The aluminum does corrode, even when using it with the treated copper, but now when using grease, it's helping a lot.
Pure stainless steel does not oxidize at all, but does not provide for the same output, I wish it did.

@ cgal: Yes, getting a higher fluffly voltage level is easy, but getting the current to go up is not easy, at all. I don't know what's up with that.
I'm still working on it...

Most of the cells that have shown very high current levels drop to 1/10 of what short circuit levels starts at, once under a heavy load. High impedance and resistance are still a factor working against us.
The use of MnO2 is very caustic to the metals, but may be necessary to keep the output from dropping as the hydrogen gas builds up in the cells. Opens cells may not be as affected by that gas build up, as much as the hermetically sealed cells.

Anyways, keep at it...

Nick,

This may be the cure for the aluminum


150 - Aluminum Gallium Alloy 99.99% 100 grams Free Shipping! - GalliumSource

[Allwest]

Thanks!! I'm not sure where you can find that size Mg. I plan on using a copper rod with Mg ribbon around it with a cloth separator with the mixture in it slid into a surrounding non-metal tube.

Anyone have any idea where I can find Mg ribbon that doesn't cost an arm and leg to ship it? Thanks guys!

010 - Magnesium Metal - GalliumSource

[br0ns0n77]

Thanks!! I'm not sure where you can find that size Mg. I plan on using a copper rod with Mg ribbon around it with a cloth separator with the mixture in it slid into a surrounding non-metal tube.

Anyone have any idea where I can find Mg ribbon that doesn't cost an arm and leg to ship it? Thanks guys!

[Allwest]

NickZ& br0ns0n77

Very clean work, you guys gave me an idea to use copper tubing the size of a AA battery, I just need a pencil size mag

plengo, or anybody else

have any idea where to get pencil size round rods of Mag?

Best of luck

[NickZ]

The aluminum does corrode, even when using it with the treated copper, but now when using grease, it's helping a lot.
Pure stainless steel does not oxidize at all, but does not provide for the same output, I wish it did.

@ cgal: Yes, getting a higher fluffly voltage level is easy, but getting the current to go up is not easy, at all. I don't know what's up with that.
I'm still working on it...

Most of the cells that have shown very high current levels drop to 1/10 of what short circuit levels starts at, once under a heavy load. High impedance and resistance are still a factor working against us.
The use of MnO2 is very caustic to the metals, but may be necessary to keep the output from dropping as the hydrogen gas builds up in the cells. Opens cells may not be as affected by that gas build up, as much as the hermetically sealed cells.

Anyways, keep at it...

[br0ns0n77]

Cool pics Nick. I do have a Mg fire starter and I used that to see what kinda voltage I could get using epsom and was getting around 1.3-1.5v with one cell, which puts me in the ball park of what I'd like to use these batteries for remotes and other small items - since usually there's only two slots for AA batteries in most items.

Have you noticed any corrosion on the aluminum with the heated copper?

Thanks man!

[cgalvisardila]

Yes, the type and purity of the metal is very important. But, if your cells are placed in series, the current levels will be the same, and only the voltage will go up.
Even with the aluminum that I use, I notice that there are big differences between different types, in how they react. I am getting much higher current, two to three times more compared to when no presure, is applied. But, pressure does not help the voltage by much.
One of my single cells when under intense pressure can output 75 mA. This is just with using table salt, Silica gel, Cu/Al, nothing else. So, my set up is a bit different.
I'm using a grease that is like Vaseline type of grease and it is also working well. But I'll pick up some of the Permatex dielectric spark plug grease too, and give it a try. It seams like any grease is better that nothing.
So, it appears that the main source of the oxidation is due to the salts mixing with the external oxygen in the air, instead of the galvanic reaction. No air, no oxydation??? Somehow it make sense.

Nick, you are very right, in fact i just made an experiment with pressure and i saw very clearly that when you rise the pressure on the cell, the amps go way up, but also the Voltage goes down, the more pressure, less volts, its inversionally proportional.... i prefer the amps if you ask me, you can gang many cells to make more volts, but amperage is harder to get, even connecting them in parallel does not rise the amps very much, i tried already.... current remains elusive.

[NickZ]

I used aluminum capacitor cans, or aluminum tubes filled with activated carbon/salt, and a carbon rod.

The heat treated semiconductor copper tubes as the positive on some of my other cells that I had made before, did not show oxidation on the copper when I opened them up today.
I use aluminum instead of Mg, as I can't find the Mg yet, aluminum probably lasts longer than the untreated Mg. So, using grease should help, so far it has.
I'm trying to connect 4 cells together now to see what I get.

Couple of pics that I had shown before, but the new guys have not seen them yet. I'm making much bigger cells now though.

[br0ns0n77]

Very nice man. Did you use magnesium? Did you fire the copper before putting those together? I'm interested to see if that helps the scenario.

[NickZ]

BrOn:
I made a similar setup to use in the plastic AA battery holders that connect to the oscillator. Only I used two small capacitor cans, both of them together which are the size of one of your cells.
I have also gotten about 1 volt, and about 30 mA, from each cell when they were first made. As they are placed in series, I'm getting 2 volts, and the current is now 8 mA, from each, a month later.
One of the cells has been sealed air tight for the last month or so, and the other has a small watering hole. Even one cell was not watered for a month, it still is reading 1 volt, 8mA, and together they light from 3 to 6 leds off my oscillator. Not as bright as before but still at it, so not so bad for very small cells that are just 3/8" by 3/4" each. Both are holding up about the same, but the one that got watered is more oxidized, the other one does not show hardly any oxidation. No grease was used on them, or pressure, either.

[br0ns0n77]

I am trying to replicate the AA battery model as much as possible because most of the things I would use these batteries for, would power small devices. Being that I don't have Mg on hand, I'm working with steel screws inside this tubing.

I placed a mixture of epsom salt on a piece of paper towel and insulated the screw with it. I fired a coil of copper and wrapped that around the paper towel tightly (since we all like the pressure). I added water once, put electrical tape around it and slid it inside these tubes. I made sure both ends had protruding electrodes and filled in the rest with silicone.

These aren't going to do much because I'm not using Mg, but just wanted to see a prototype using this method. I'm getting around 1volt and 5-10mA. I would like to see how long they will last without adding more water. I'm sure they will die out, but I want to take a very small drill bit near the negative end to access the paper towel and induct water into the cell again.

I'll keep you posted on how long it lasts.