Yes, the type and purity of the metal is very important. But, if your cells are placed in series, the current levels will be the same, and only the voltage will go up.
Even with the aluminum that I use, I notice that there are big differences between different types, in how they react. I am getting much higher current, two to three times more compared to when no presure, is applied. But, pressure does not help the voltage by much.
One of my single cells when under intense pressure can output 75 mA. This is just with using table salt, Silica gel, Cu/Al, nothing else. So, my set up is a bit different.
I'm using a grease that is like Vaseline type of grease and it is also working well. But I'll pick up some of the Permatex dielectric spark plug grease too, and give it a try. It seams like any grease is better that nothing.
So, it appears that the main source of the oxidation is due to the salts mixing with the external oxygen in the air, instead of the galvanic reaction. No air, no oxydation??? Somehow it make sense.
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Originally posted by NickZ View Postcgarvisardila:
Nice light output, and interesting leds also. You'll have even higher mAs by making the cells a bit bigger.
I use the "Flat Top" leds to get that wide angle light. They also do a good job of spreading the light, and don't cost much. They come on some of the Christmas tree lights strings.
You can apply pressure to your cells by using a C-clamp that fits the width of the cells. I am doing something like that on some of my cells now. It helps to raise the output, and keep it there. The carbon/salt cells seam to really like it. If you do it, you'll have to insulate the negative side of the clamp from the cell, so it won't short out.
thanks for the tip! but i tried that already, i've done it with big plates and the output power is very much the same, it has more to do with the type of mag i'm using, these plates have a thin poor quality mag sheet, i'm waiting on a high purity plate... the clamps help but not as much as they could, because when you pressure the mix is compresses inwards, but it expands to the edges so, there's no real compression of the material itself... we need to encase the mix somehow and put real compression, that's how i got the mix to sizzle and get hot, its the same thing that happened when bedini built that cell under pressure, the mix compressed so much that it released the trapped water in the salts, that's what we're looking for.
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this one:Originally posted by cgalvisardila View PostThat's great fausto, can you share the specs of the grease you're using? please?
cheers, good job!
PERMATEX DIELECTRIC WATER RESISTANT GREASE 3 OZ | eBay
Fausto.
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That's great fausto, can you share the specs of the grease you're using? please?
cheers, good job!
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Thank you. I just purchased some of those.Originally posted by cgalvisardila View PostFausto, heres the link of the LEDs you requested
5mm White LED (360 degree) (RL5-W45-360) | Component LEDs | Super Bright LEDs
@All,
my 3 cells I have done using the dielectric grease are running wonderfully well and beyond expectations. It is surpassing the performance of all my other cells and best of all they are running from 5 to 6 LEDS in parallel non-stop for 3 weeks now and their voltage under load is a steady 2.70v.
It goes up in the night and down during the day to 2.69998v, so in other words, extremely stable at 2.70v. It must be giving at least 10ma to light really bright 5/6 LEDs non-stop.
Those cells I have not added water AGAIN at all since they were born.
Another base cell I did with magnesium ribbon is still running un-corroded. So I guess the grease with paper does indeed protect the Magnesium.
I guess, we have found one perfect formula.
Today I will make my first big size cell with 36 cells to be 12 cells in series with 3 sections in parallel. I expect to have around 15v at 100ma non stop.
Fausto.
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cgarvisardila:
Nice light output, and interesting leds also. You'll have even higher mAs by making the cells a bit bigger.
I use the "Flat Top" leds to get that wide angle light. They also do a good job of spreading the light, and don't cost much. They come on some of the Christmas tree lights strings.
You can apply pressure to your cells by using a C-clamp that fits the width of the cells. I am doing something like that on some of my cells now. It helps to raise the output, and keep it there. The carbon/salt cells seam to really like it. If you do it, you'll have to insulate the negative side of the clamp from the cell, so it won't short out.Last edited by NickZ; 04-22-2012, 05:19 AM.
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LEDs
Fausto, heres the link of the LEDs you requested
5mm White LED (360 degree) (RL5-W45-360) | Component LEDs | Super Bright LEDs
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Also, with this cell
Allwest power cell # 6 - YouTube
It is thermally reactive, going up with the temp
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Nick, this was created before the hydrogen peroxide add, the H.P. added to chili cell goes way up, then way down in power very fast, about 100Ma after 3 daysOriginally posted by NickZ View PostWouldn't that size cell output that much or more, even without the chili? What happened to the 500 to 600 mAs?
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I did notice on the bottom of the cell, after I took off the tape, it had corrosion of mag, the nice part about this cell is adding no waterOriginally posted by br0ns0n77 View PostYeah I was curious too about the chili battery - have you noticed any corrosion on the metals? It's probably hard to tell since the chili powder is dark itself... 35mA is great.
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It started out at 50Ma & 1.45 volts with only water added, went down to 15Ma and is climbing back up, it is at 35Ma, this cell has had no water sense it was createdOriginally posted by cgalvisardila View PostHi allwest, have you done a long term test on a chilli battery? that's pretty good amps there, was that 35Ma its giving off constantly after creation? let us know how long it lasts, so far so good, cheers
We will see how long it lasts
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From what I've read, Iron Pyrite is a semi-conductor only allowing a small amount of electric transfer between the two metals. I would assume that using that in the mix is an effort to slow down the galvanic process or completely stop it?
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Very nice man! That is one bright LED for sure. Great pics! What is the makeup of your plate cell?
Yeah I remember seeing him pressuring those cells. I'm still trying to figure out if blackening the copper will stop the galvanic process or if it just slows it down? From what I read blackening the Cu essentially makes it a diode so the power only passes in one direction. When it passes in both directions it causes the galvanic process to speed up. The galvanic occurrence seems to be the achilles heel in all these experiments that have some meaningful amperage associated with them.
Have you had any luck reducing the galvanic process so far?
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