Bedini Earth Light

[cgalvisardila]

So I've been testing this particular model:

Steel screws wrapped in cotton (which contains purely epsom salt) with copper wire surrounding the screws to help add pressure (since it seems from what I've read that pressure creates more mA.

its interesting you mention this, pressure is key... yesterday i was experimenting with a new mix and using a Cu cap, i stuffed the mix inside and then put as much pressure as i could with my hand using a mag piece... well i didn't even need to measure the thing... it got real HOT, when i measured it it read over 150Ma and immediately went down progressively until it reached less than 10Ma. so.... more than 10 times Ma just from the pressure.... bedini built a bunch of cells pressuring the mix with some BIG pressure a while back....

Here's some pics of my newest plate cell, 17 plates, its giving off 22V at 2.6Ma..... look at that beautiful light, pic#1 is a 3.6 volt LED, pic#2 is the common 2.5V bright white LED. this one could work as a flashlight at night.... now that you mention it br0ns0n, next cell i will see how i can pressure the paper soaked in the mix and raise the Ma.... if with this cell, instead of giving 2.5Ma could go at 100Ma, we could light a big light bulb... it was a real thrill to feel that cell go real hot, also the mix began to sizzle.... if any of you have any ideas on how to put adequate pressure on the plates let us know, we might have a winner... thanks for the post!

[br0ns0n77]

So I've been testing this particular model:

Steel screws wrapped in cotton (which contains purely epsom salt) with copper wire surrounding the screws to help add pressure (since it seems from what I've read that pressure creates more mA. I tested about 8 of these in series to run a couple of LEDs and it has been burning for about 24 hours. I took apart a couple of the batteries and found that the plated screws were starting to corrode. Apparently the magnesium sulfate in the epsom salt is breaking it down - though it doesn't seem to break it down as much as alum from what I've seen.

I did try blackening the copper as well - seems to have the same reaction.

[NickZ]

Wouldn't that size cell output that much or more, even without the chili? What happened to the 500 to 600 mAs?

[br0ns0n77]

Yeah I was curious too about the chili battery - have you noticed any corrosion on the metals? It's probably hard to tell since the chili powder is dark itself... 35mA is great.

[cgalvisardila]

Here is an update on the power of the chili powder cell 16 days old, no water was added after it was created

Allwest power cell # 6 - YouTube

The products are listed in the video, I meant to say in the video that the dry-out product was supposed to keep it moist, not dry, although it does not seam to be wet

Fausto,
On the open cells that I have created, the dry-out keeps the cells damp with never adding water, may save you some time, it also seams to add more power, just a thought to try


br0ns0n77,
Here is a quick easy and cheap LED light -low voltage setup with switch, I was around $1.29

Best of luck to all

Hi allwest, have you done a long term test on a chilli battery? that's pretty good amps there, was that 35Ma its giving off constantly after creation? let us know how long it lasts, so far so good, cheers

[MonsieurM]

reddpill , much appreciated your feedback on the clay experiment. ...if i may suggest also testing with aluminum in the mix

Pier Ighina's Cosmic Energy Inventions - The Tesla / Reich / Keely of Italy - English Subtitles - YouTube

[reddpill]

Course Feedback.

An offshoot idea, within your new coursework - could you fire different salts within the clay ? What happens at higher temperature, with controlled, flame kiln firing ?
I don't mean to throw a few granules of Epsom salts in when the course teacher isn't watching lol.
It would be good to know what kind of impurity level needs to be steered clear from, to avoid adverse (brittling) effects of the finished pottery piece that could lead to collapse of the structure.
One may imagine a caveman firing the first pottery. At some point he begins kicking highly charged plasma balls away from the flames ! You could hand him a lightbulb and he'd have no idea how to connect it to the wheelworks of nature that he has discovered.

Well I found out that salt ruins kilns apparently. One thing of interest she did say was that salt turns things ORANGE (specific wave length?) and is also used in glazing.

By the way, here's a picture of the encasing I've put together with the different clay types and will be fired next week. Some have alot more iron/magnetite levels than others. Version 'IV' has a high level of Iron and when fired shows nodes of iron in the clay. The 'V' version, the end one has iron too, not as much as IV but also has quartz filings in it too.

[reddpill]

Depending on the rotational speed of a propeller and the length to the blade tip, the formation of super heated water vapor at a temperature exceeding 4000 degrees can occur. These vapor bubbles that are produced then immediately collapse, releasing their latent energy and this can cause a cavitation burn on propeller blades.



Looking at a propeller blade and the effect of cavitation on one, it resembles the galvanic action on the battery metals. Now I'm going to go out on a limb here and state that what we are seeing is a cavitation implosion effect at an atomic level which is 'pitting' the metals based on the centripetal implosion and natural movement of atoms between the two metals, leading to the release of huge amounts of energy so small it's beyond our naked eye.

This is part of the key to understanding this technology as it goes back to Keely, Russell, Schauberger etc along with all ancient cultures.

[jefbj]

Speaking of Radus boots magic shoes lol, you can see that once the Leedskalnin PMH's have energized, there is a time period before the wearer moves again and breaks the magnetic bondings.

An example of a switchable magnet. It's called the Magswitch. 95lbs of holding force! It's used for woodworking and steel fabrication hold downs. I bought one of these to play with. When I have time I'll take it apart to see exactly how it works.
Magswitch MagJig 95 Switchable Magnet

[Allwest]

Here is an update on the power of the chili powder cell 16 days old, no water was added after it was created

Allwest power cell # 6 - YouTube

The products are listed in the video, I meant to say in the video that the dry-out product was supposed to keep it moist, not dry, although it does not seam to be wet

Fausto,
On the open cells that I have created, the dry-out keeps the cells damp with never adding water, may save you some time, it also seams to add more power, just a thought to try


br0ns0n77,
Here is a quick easy and cheap LED light -low voltage setup with switch, I was around $1.29

Best of luck to all

[br0ns0n77]

Thanks Nick for the help! I'll give it a try.

[NickZ]

This is the oscillator circuit that I'm using. The led(s) are connected between the C and the B on the transistor. I used a ferrite bead, 1/2" by 1/2" core with only about 10 turns bifilar, and can still work at less than 0.3volts.
It works fine with all my cells, and is very very easy to make, as it has practically no components.
The tiny toroids out of a CFL will also work well. Give it a try...

Joule Thief very very low input 0,136 volt - YouTube

[br0ns0n77]

Hey guys - in the past week I've read every single message in this thread and have become increasingly interested in participating. I'm very new to electronics and even have a couple of LEDs burning like you fellas using the same methods. One thing I have yet to dig into was how to make an oscillator circuit. Can anyone point me to a basic tutorial on what I need to make one and how precise the build has to be in order for it to work? I tried making a joule thief a few weeks ago and could never get it to work.

Thanks in advance for the help!

[NickZ]

My oscillators don't make the leds blink, at least not when using more than just a mA. My leds are always on, even when using several of them. I'm not using micro-amps, these days, thanks to my carbon cells which run at a constant 10 to 30mA, down from 6o to 75mA open circuit.
The circuit that I use for my cells is the Jtc that uses no resistor, the kn2222A transistor, and the led(s) are connected from between the C and B, instead of C and E. It works just fine with my cells, without blinking, even without an elaborate secondary coil, or higher voltages. Of course to run many leds a secondary coil on the ferrite core works better yet. A cell or two with 100 mA output would work very very nice, with that set up.
Silica gel does help to keep the cells moist, sometimes soaking wet, even forming puddles at times when the weather is rainy. But, silica seams to lose its glue like, metal protection abilities with time, when always maintaining wetness.
Anyways, just some thoughts...

[Slider2732]

Did you make yourself a cake Reddpill ? ...

A focus, can be to realise what the cells will need to do and when they will need to do it. It's all fine and dandy to light LED's for months, but, we already see in blocking oscillators such as the 'Penny' type, that a charge needs to build and then the light is 'fired' as a flash. Better amperage, quicker firing, brighter light and then constant running. But - if an LED goes unobserved for hours, does it need to flash ? can it instead divert the power output to other work as part of the same circuit ?
If the trickle of energy were stored and fired on demand, then we gain functionality and usefulness from those months and months of outputs commonly available...in my opinion.

Outside at the moment, my garden fence radiant collector will either flash a 'Penny' twice a second or, flash an LED much brighter every approx 4 seconds, or, can build up a charge on a cap to around 16.5V overnight.
My thoughts are, that if we steer toward the running methods of say a lighthouse, with delayed but highly effective output, that the cells can really shine
Then, chain such delays and you have seemingly much stronger continual output if required (think of Li-Po batteries and their protection circuits, but being blocking oscillators on each cell. Running like Night Rider lights in switched sequential operation, rest, charge, fire).

Speaking of Radus boots magic shoes lol, you can see that once the Leedskalnin PMH's have energized, there is a time period before the wearer moves again and breaks the magnetic bondings.