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Peter Daysh Davey Water Heater Query

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  • MonsieurM
    replied
    Guys as I was searching Tesla's Patent, I stumbled on a little piece of info

    from: Pepe's Tesla Pages: Nikola Tesla


    THE NEW TESLA ELECTRIC HEATER *
    by Nikola Tesla





    STRICTLY CONFIDENTIAL
    This device is greatly superior to the usual flat core type in efficiency and other respects. It consists of a thin polished metal tube acting as reflector and a base equipped with switch and connecting terminals and carrying spaced resistor wires concentric with the tube and at a certain distance from the inner surface of the same. In this arrangement the diffuse radiation is virtually eliminated, and the heater operates as if the resistor were not present, the rays being projected from the reflector radially to the central or focal region occupied by the boiling pot.
    The principal advantages thus secured are the following:
    1. A very high efficiency, as much as 96% being attainable.
    2. The efficiency is practically the same whether the pot is large or small since the density of the rays is inversely as the diameter of the vessel.
    3. Due to these features the current consumption is hardly more than half of that in the best heaters of the type referred to.
    4. The resistor has a relatively much longer life and can be made to last almost indefinitely in some cases. Also less wire can be used if desired.
    5. The heat being largely confined to the range, the kitchen remains comparatively cool.
    6. Another practical advantage is greater safety from a variety of accidents frequently occurring with ordinary ranges.
    7. The-new heater is especially adapted for use on shipboard, Pullman cars, aerial vehicles and automobiles.
    8. Likewise, it is suitable for all kinds of service on the table, being free from the objections of the present type.
    9. It saves considerable time in certain applications.
    10. Owing to simplicity, the cost of manufacturing is low.

    Leave a comment:


  • Slovenia
    replied
    EU Length of Can

    The can is supposed to be 150mm long from the base of the can up. So, you measure from the bottom up and cut it at 150mm. Then, you have to sand it until it plays at 50 Hz.

    Originally posted by Ares123 View Post
    Mr.C

    Please can You mark where to cut the can for 50Hz 220V?

    Leave a comment:


  • Ares123
    replied
    Mr.C

    Please can You mark where to cut the can for 50Hz 220V?
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • RAMSET
    replied
    Slurry mix

    Lots of good info being shared!!
    Thanks

    @TEKTRON
    Yes a smaller manifold to make Steam seems to be what the professor is
    saying,And as daemonbart says current goes down with the boil ,which would of Course make sense ![and what the Professor told us with his Chart]

    And Duncan showed us with his spoons .........

    I think we can play with the space between the ring and the tube on the ikea device to make this manifest without much effort [a boil condition]

    We create a mini boiler in that space ,A little home that the ring lives in and gets really hot really fast .
    I like it !!

    Of course the obvious question arises Why do we need the rest of the device
    {ikea]?big long tube and such?

    @Jason
    Thanks for that Idea,I have to admit I Like to automate ,I have been pondering a slurry mix [super mild abrasive ] and just lower the can on a drill [or drill press] into the mix where we need the sanding done and turn it on and walk away, we could protect the inside or even include it in the
    sand job if it becomes necessary.

    Food for thought, I am more intrigued than ever ! Whats going on inside this device [Savic}? It is obvious that we can get a boil going and diminish current!

    Oh how I would love A pic of your device Professor !!

    Very intriguing indeed!!
    Thanks fellahs

    Chet
    Last edited by RAMSET; 11-15-2011, 01:16 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • Slovenia
    replied
    Hole

    Hi Chet,

    The can shouldn't have a hole in it, but I'd use it anyway. Most of the cans out there that are sold as singles have many imperfections. The only way to reduce the number of imperfections on the cans is to purchase them in an enclosed carton. Those seem to be as close to perfect as we're going to find. As for sanding, you don't need to sand the whole can like many are doing. It's just necessary to sand a taper at the top of the can from what I've gathered from Mr. "C". That area at the top of the can needs to be really thin I guess and so you want as perfect a can as possible before you start sanding it or you will be getting holes at the area you're sanding. Use the finest sand paper you can get according to Mr. "C".

    Also, some new information came to light from Mr. "C". He said that if the can is not properly tuned before putting it in the water that it will corrode and self destruct. So, that explains what Daemonbart was having happen to his aluminum cans. According to Mr. "C", if the cans are properly tuned they will not corrode away.

    Great Job!!

    Best Regards,
    Slovenia


    [QUOTE=RAMSET;167068]This Can I am Sanding [while I run my heat tests ] ,has some imperfections
    [in photo] is it possible to find a can without such imperfections?
    I have been told it could take 20 hrs of sanding and tuning to get this right
    I don't want to waste time on a bad can [unless this is typical]

    Another question?
    I have made a microscopic hole while sanding [when it was full ]
    have I ruined it?

    Thank you
    Chet
    Last edited by Slovenia; 11-15-2011, 10:36 AM. Reason: Removed Pic

    Leave a comment:


  • Slovenia
    replied
    Very Nice Indeed!!!

    Hi Jason,

    That's a very innovative great idea indeed. Thanks for sharing about it. I'll be using that. We really did needed a better way to sand these cans with the tops removed, since we have to periodically test them to see where we are with the tune. Very Nice!!!

    Best Regards,
    Slovenia

    Originally posted by cornfused View Post
    Guys and Gals
    I just figured out an easier way to sand cans with the top cut off.....
    First stuff a rag in the can, kinda center it. it needs to almost fill the can up...then find you a plastic drinking cup thats tapered and will slide into the open end of can. press it in and Bingo!! Ive been sanding on my latest can with it on the drill,, this is sooooo much better!

    And also, Thank you Professer Savic' for everything you have shared. We are very greatful, and this has been a really fun thing to do. Thanks A Lot!!
    Last edited by Slovenia; 11-15-2011, 10:20 AM. Reason: typo

    Leave a comment:


  • daemonbart
    replied
    Boiling cop?

    Hi!

    I agree on that! All I know so far is that current draw is less at boiling, I have a feeling cop still is about the same. Less current seem to come from more steam around ring??

    Originally posted by boguslaw View Post
    I have a little worrying : if higher COP occur after water is boiling inside can then we cannot check the efficiency without a complete system with recirculating water in pipes using pump.

    Leave a comment:


  • TEKTRON
    replied
    Originally posted by boguslaw View Post
    I have a little worrying : if higher COP occur after water is boiling inside can then we cannot check the efficiency without a complete system with recirculating water in pipes using pump.
    So only take it up to to say 95 deg C. or 203 deg F. You will see current fall as Temp rises.

    Leave a comment:


  • boguslaw
    replied
    I have a little worrying : if higher COP occur after water is boiling inside can then we cannot check the efficiency without a complete system with recirculating water in pipes using pump.

    Leave a comment:


  • cornfused
    replied
    easy sanding

    Guys and Gals
    I just figured out an easier way to sand cans with the top cut off.....
    First stuff a rag in the can, kinda center it. it needs to almost fill the can up...then find you a plastic drinking cup thats tapered and will slide into the open end of can. press it in and Bingo!! Ive been sanding on my latest can with it on the drill,, this is sooooo much better!

    And also, Thank you Professer Savic' for everything you have shared. We are very greatful, and this has been a really fun thing to do. Thanks A Lot!!
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • TEKTRON
    replied
    Originally posted by RAMSET View Post
    Ring proximity increases heat and KWH
    The smaller the gap the more heat and KWH's [so far]
    Chet, back in 1982, I did some electrolysis tests with 110vac. When the water was cold, the current draw was very high. Something like 8A. the hotter The water got, the lower the current draw. As I remember when the water boiled the draw was down below 1 amp. I think a smaller diameter dunk tank with less water is called for as well as a much longer test

    Leave a comment:


  • TEKTRON
    replied
    TRANSLATED:
    "I watched the images IKEA bottles, is not well made, Sonic boiler corrosion if not well made.
    The gap between the electrodes must be 1.725 mm at 60 Hz 110 Volts, at 220 V is 2.52 mm At 300 Hz has to resonate, A little water should be about sonic boiler.


    COP account for the bottle Ikea
    COP = (((18972.059 x 4.5 x 4.186) / 600) / 60/60)) / 0.1 = 1.6545 average
    at 100 degrees Celsius would be COP = 3.309
    IKEA has received more energy than is invested 3.3 times at 100 degrees Celsius 110 V 60 Hz
    At 220 V to COP was twice as high
    Super result for the start of a correct one error with a ring to resonate at 300 Hz"

    The Things that stick out to me is "A little water should be about sonic boiler." I don't think he likes the whole apparatus submerged and 300 Hz is wrong freq for 110v. 300 Hz is for 220v???

    Leave a comment:


  • RAMSET
    replied
    evening summary

    5 gal 110V 6MM gap [4MM height] 10 min raised 1.2C .03 KWH
    5 gal 110V 5.5MM Gap [4MM height] 10min raised 2C . .04 KWH
    5 gal 110V 5 MM Gap [4MM height] 10 min raised 2,8C .05 KWH
    Last edited by RAMSET; 11-15-2011, 03:45 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • RAMSET
    replied
    Question to the professor

    This Can I am Sanding [while I run my heat tests ] ,has some imperfections
    [in photo] is it possible to find a can without such imperfections?
    I have been told it could take 20 hrs of sanding and tuning to get this right
    I don't want to waste time on a bad can [unless this is typical]

    Another question?
    I have made a microscopic hole while sanding [when it was full ]
    have I ruined it?

    Thank you
    Chet

    Last edited by RAMSET; 11-15-2011, 03:32 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • RAMSET
    replied
    5 gal 110V 10 min 5 MM gap 2,8C .05 KWH

    Ring proximity increases heat and KWH
    The smaller the gap the more heat and KWH's [so far]
    Last edited by RAMSET; 11-15-2011, 03:30 AM.

    Leave a comment:

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