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  • boguslaw
    replied
    There is also safety issue : how to prevent any leakage of current to the piping system ? I know that pipes should be grounded but it still bother me.
    I have European AC system 230V/50Hz with limit to 16A current.I'm not experienced in electrical systems and want to know every risk incidents . For example what would happen if neutral wire would be disconnected accidentally or if there would be too much steam between hot and neutral, or if hot electrode would be disconnected and so on.
    Could someone experienced indicate what to do to protect device from such lethal failures ?

    Leave a comment:


  • wrtner
    replied
    I would have thought that, for initial experimental purposes, a standard
    audio Hi-Fi amplifier would be more than good enough.

    Just make sure the load impedance is reasonable for it.

    Leave a comment:


  • RAMSET
    replied
    Sounds like a plan Steve !!

    One of our good friends Magluvin [mags] has worked a great deal with E.L.F. transformers in Car Audio systems...They work from 20HZ up to 200HZ and can be hooked up to a PC !
    I believe he said class "D" is the best for this?


    I am setting up shop here and getting back into building!

    Lets Do this!!
    Open Source of Course !!



    THX
    Chet
    Last edited by RAMSET; 01-22-2012, 01:25 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • PhysicsProf
    replied
    Originally posted by Cherryman View Post
    I asked before but the link was not good,

    what does this thing do?:

    Vermogensregelaar 110-240 V~, 4000 VA - Vermogensregelaar-bouwpakketten - Conrad Electronic

    PDF: http://www.produktinfo.conrad.com/da...e_en_fr_nl.pdf

    Is this suitable? The Price is!
    Good question, C-man. I sent Conrad Electronics a request for further information about this product, will let you know what I get back from them.

    I have a few of the IKEA flasks now.... preparing for build along the lines of DaemonBart, Chet and Slovenia. Has anyone else actually built a sonic boiler using an IKEA flask?

    Leave a comment:


  • TEKTRON
    replied
    Originally posted by Cherryman View Post
    I asked before but the link was not good,

    what does this thing do?:

    Vermogensregelaar 110-240 V~, 4000 VA - Vermogensregelaar-bouwpakketten - Conrad Electronic

    PDF: http://www.produktinfo.conrad.com/da...e_en_fr_nl.pdf

    Is this suitable? The Price is!
    DONO.
    I think it has an SSR output with an adjustable timer circuit. Just guessing.

    Leave a comment:


  • Cherryman
    replied
    I asked before but the link was not good,

    what does this thing do?:

    Vermogensregelaar 110-240 V~, 4000 VA - Vermogensregelaar-bouwpakketten - Conrad Electronic

    PDF: http://www.produktinfo.conrad.com/da...e_en_fr_nl.pdf

    Is this suitable? The Price is!

    Leave a comment:


  • boguslaw
    replied
    Originally posted by RAMSET View Post
    Transformer Ideas?
    Mr.D you are correct the talent in these forums runs deep
    A member AllCanadian shared this ruff idea


    instead of spending endless hours trying to mechanically tune the cans we could spend all of $30 to buy two N channel 200v/50A and two P channel 200v/50A mosfets, a 200v/50A FWB, a 555 timer, two mosfet drivers and a few smoothing caps to build a 3Kw variable frequency AC/DC/pulsed DC supply -- add another $6 for variable output voltage. Now if a person wanted to get creative we could also use an Arduino usb microcontroller to simultaneously sweep one frequency range or multiple frequencies while monitoring a hall effect sensor which senses vibrations of the cans which are partially saturated by a permanent magnetic field. In which case we would simply program the microcontroller to automatically sweep through a massive number of frequency combinations and log the frequency(s) and the output from the hall effect sensor and possibly a temperature sensor in the serial monitor for number crunching in a spread sheet. All for less than $70 and which could also be used for many other experiments or projects as well, ain't science and technology wonderful.
    I guess the first question we need to ask is what is our time worth?

    Regards
    AC
    That's good idea.However I suspect that pure sinewave 50Hz is what we need and in such case add an output stage to the circuit. Could the simplest way be the inverter driven from an electrolytic cap for example series of 100uF/350V caps ? How to build such thing with isolation between 230V and electronic oscillator ? Definitely we need expert help here, I can build 555 based oscillator but only within the supported voltage range (up to 15V afaik).
    I would like to see output stage made differently if possible - like in one of Zilano schematics - ferrite core with additional modulation coil to get 50Hz.
    I'm not experienced in electric circuits , please can someone confirm if we could drive that from electrolytic caps , charged from AC grid power via diode bridge ? If I have a capacitor and diode bridge providing power from AC power source like power grid what is happening when capacitor is fully charged ? Is there any power taken from grid is such situation ?

    Leave a comment:


  • RAMSET
    replied
    Been asking Friends for Ideas

    Transformer Ideas?
    Mr.D you are correct the talent in these forums runs deep
    A member AllCanadian shared this ruff idea


    instead of spending endless hours trying to mechanically tune the cans we could spend all of $30 to buy two N channel 200v/50A and two P channel 200v/50A mosfets, a 200v/50A FWB, a 555 timer, two mosfet drivers and a few smoothing caps to build a 3Kw variable frequency AC/DC/pulsed DC supply -- add another $6 for variable output voltage. Now if a person wanted to get creative we could also use an Arduino usb microcontroller to simultaneously sweep one frequency range or multiple frequencies while monitoring a hall effect sensor which senses vibrations of the cans which are partially saturated by a permanent magnetic field. In which case we would simply program the microcontroller to automatically sweep through a massive number of frequency combinations and log the frequency(s) and the output from the hall effect sensor and possibly a temperature sensor in the serial monitor for number crunching in a spread sheet. All for less than $70 and which could also be used for many other experiments or projects as well, ain't science and technology wonderful.
    I guess the first question we need to ask is what is our time worth?

    Regards
    AC

    Leave a comment:


  • PhysicsProf
    replied
    Again, I want to thank Prof. Savic for providing a sonic device for testing purposes. I have arranged for a researcher in France to do the initial testing of his device (and paid the fees for delivery).

    I'm excited, looking forward to the day when we will see the results! Although there I must be patient, as these tests will take a little time.

    Thank you, Professor Savic. You are an honest man.

    Leave a comment:


  • wrtner
    replied
    Originally posted by wrtner View Post
    You have quoted the power of the speakers. what matters is
    the resistance of them. Usually they are 8 ohm or 16 ohm.

    The resistor should be of relatively high wattage. Probably the
    biggest they have. 20 watt should be fine.
    Actually, the value of the resistor will be huge in comparison to
    the speaker.

    2.4Kohm should give 0.1 amp and 25 watt. The resistor may run hot.
    5kohm might a better. Experimentation is called for but be VERY
    careful. Start with higher values and stand well back and be able
    to switch off quickly. (A dead man's handle type switch would be
    a good idea initially).

    It is a matter of not having a resistor running too hot and enough
    sound to compare with the sound of the apparatus to tune the
    apparatus to the speaker.
    .

    Leave a comment:


  • RAMSET
    replied
    Audio amp question?? Will this work?

    pecifications:
    Part Number: TE1501D
    THD+N (Distortion) (1 Watt): < 0.5%
    Signal-to-noise Ratio (1 Watt): 69dB
    4Ω RMS Power Output: 500W x 1 Channel
    Topology: Class D
    Equalization: Quasi Parametric: Boost/Cut +/-12dB, Freq. 30Hz-80Hz
    1Ω RMS Power Output: 1500W x 1 Channel
    Recommended StreetWires Amp Kit: ZN5K-00
    2Ω RMS Power Output: 1000W x 1 Channel
    Frequency Response (-3dB): 20Hz-200Hz
    Maximum Input Signal: 10V
    Maximum Sensitivity: 100mV
    Mono Gain Control: 100mV-10V
    Crossover: Low @ 40Hz to 200Hz, 24dB/Oct
    Subsonic: 30Hz,12dB/Oct, Defeat
    Height: 9 5/8" (24.45 cm)
    Width: 20 11/16" (52.55 cm)
    Depth: 2 1/2" (6.35 cm)

    Leave a comment:


  • wrtner
    replied
    Originally posted by jimmyx1000 View Post
    please can somebody tell me what resistor i would use for the following
    speakers.

    25 watt
    50 watt
    100 watt
    200 watt

    thankyou

    Jimmyx1000
    You have quoted the power of the speakers. what matters is
    the resistance of them. Usually they are 8 ohm or 16 ohm.

    The resistor should be of relatively high wattage. Probably the
    biggest they have. 20 watt should be fine.

    Leave a comment:


  • jimmyx1000
    replied
    Regarding the Ring around the can

    Hi all

    will somebody confirm regarding the ring that goes around the can

    are we not able to measure the hz frequency of the ring , either 300hz or 400hz
    with a sound program , does the ring actually vibrate at 300hz or 400hz

    thankyou

    Jimmyx1000

    Leave a comment:


  • jimmyx1000
    replied
    Hi wrtner

    can somebody tell me the following please:

    i want to connect my main 240 volts, 50hz to a speaker so i can find out the exact frequency it is running at , i.e 49hz, 50hz, 51hz etc etc

    i plan to use a resistor and speaker.

    please can somebody tell me what resistor i would use for the following
    speakers.

    25 watt
    50 watt
    100 watt
    200 watt

    thankyou

    Jimmyx1000

    Leave a comment:


  • PhysicsProf
    replied
    Attached is from the SAWS memo from the US Patent Office, regarding applications for patents that are "no-fly", not allowed. Note that "free energy" devices are specifically NOT to be patented.

    Another reason to not apply for a US Patent! IMO.

    The entire document from which this page was copied (so you can see the context!) is here:


    Hope that link works...
    Attached Files
    Last edited by PhysicsProf; 01-18-2012, 05:19 AM.

    Leave a comment:

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