Imhotep's Radiant Oscillator Video

[nat1971a]

@vortex/all

Tesla was using fluid terminology / analogies ...so i think vortex has hit it on the head....

Pressure, flow, valves, pumps.....we need to think like tesla....dont think conventional.....conventional is the road to nowhere.....

[Hoppy]

Good post Vortex.

At the weekend I rigged up a Bedini SG energiser in self-oscillation mode charging a battery but with the primary of an ignition coil wired in series with the battery. I found that an 18W neon tube connected to the ignition HT wire only fully illuminates when the other end of the tube is connected to either the battery pos or neg terminal. When connected like this, varying the output of the energiser directly controls the level of illumination which is fairly even along the whole length of the tube.

It appears as you say, like the energiser is acting as a pump and can only effectively pump energy across the neon tube if both ends are at at different potentials in respect to the circuit. Working the tube with one wire only from the ignition coil HT pressurises the tube causing 'banding' and an uneven illumination along the length of the tube. The tube is looking for a return which it does find via the aether but this return is high resistance and not good. In this situation, when I touched the glass of the tube, this resulted in an increase in brightness because my body was acting as a lower resistance conductor and therefore a better return.

The energiser converts low tension voltage to high tension voltage which is amplified in the ignition coil. I see the level of energy delivered from the HT of the coil being directly proportional to the pressure from the pump (energiser) and the pressure in turn is proportional to the power applied to the energiser. However, although the voltages and currents change in this conversion process, the power level does not (other than through normal resistive / reactive losses in the conversion process) because as the voltage increases, the current drops. Its the level of power (V x I) that dictates the brightness of our lamps, not just the voltage in isolation.

Another observation I made is that the neon tube when working 'cold' is not producing an equivalent illumination (watt for watt) to when it is running from a normal AC mains supply. This is because the tube filament is not being pre-heated prior to being 'struck' by HV as it is when running from a mains starter unit.

Hoppy

[Vortex]

johnny-come-lately

HV diodes
YouTube - Bodkins 35 diode ground.AVI

Bodkins and ...... Everybody.

Call me johnny-come-lately ...
I sorta figured that one out also, Bodkins, but I came to a conclusion.
I'm looking at my version of the Lidmotor "Small Transistor CFL table candle"
circuit, well .. a sorta kinda like that.
I don't have a regulator and I'm using a 6 volt source.

At least for the Candle circuit, an earth ground has nothing to do
with making the bulb light brighter.

One side of the bulb is connected to HV.

1) it doesn't always "get going" without a push
2) it is like a candle
3) without something connected to the non-HV side,
the whole bulb isn't lit, lites less than a candle and generally will flicker.
4) allows for Yes,No evaluation of what does and doesn't effect brightness of bulb
5) A carrot works not as good as an orange and not
as good as a finger for bulb's Ground.
I wasn't touching the carrot when it was working, but I touched the orange.
6) foil works as good as wire and as good as earth ground.

I took my earth ground which is network wiring (8 wires) used 2 twisted
together for earth and 2 not attached to the earth rod.
and a piece of aluminum foil off a 2 lb peanut can.
The bulb is equally lit for all 3.
For this circuit it isn't earth that makes the bulb bright.

How the non-HV side of the bulb works, it might not be a Ground
and I don't think it's an ANTENNA. It's more like a valve.

Forgetting all the other effects, blue,purple sparks, etc
and looking only at the lighting the bulb.
Let us say the only thing making the bulb light is HV, just like
you see here., except one side of the bulb connect to HV.

Something under pressure just sits there doing nothing but being
pressurized, in this case by HV. It is just potential.
You guys are seeing a bright light because you are pushing so much
pressure, more pressure equals more volume through the same size
hole. We all have the same size hole if nothing is connected to the
non-HV side of the bulb. Less source volts, less light with the same
circuit.

An Orifice with pressure behind it can only allow so much to past
in any even time. If you make the Orifice larger so more can flow through
it. Th Orifice, in the lighting a bulb, isn't a hole, but is surface area.
The bulb gas is under pressure by HV but only so much pressure can get out.
The volume that gets out equals the brightness of the bulb.
If nothing is connected to the non-HV side, it takes more pressure to increase
the brightness.
If the Orifice is widen via a wire attached or a piece of aluminum foil,
a carrot, etc. the brightness increase due there is more surface area to
release the pinned up pressure, more flow, more movement, more light.

That sounds like it matches what I'm observing.
I have not a clue if this idea has anything to do with reality,
because I'm a victim of my own reality like everyone else is.

At this low voltage you can see the gas moving in the bulb, but it's
like the spokes on a wheel. You can not tell which way the wheel
it rotating due to the observed movement of the spokes.
I see the gas (pulses) moving forwards and then backwards in both directions.

I'm still only an observer.
Just
Randy

[sucahyo]

Better way to reduce spark

I can get spark reduced more by routing the negative part to different direction. This modification also allow my power supply to do less self shut off.

Wether this modification has better efficiency than original design is still undecided. This will need to be experimented more. I got mixed result depend on load.

This also a concept proof that power spike resulted from relay switching can not be stop by a mere diode. The diode is SB1040CT. Maybe it also proof that simple circuit like this can create HV strong enough to bypass the diode, and this happen on low voltage side since I do not connect my secondary to anything (I use transformer).

[Inquorate]

Circuit for driving two coils

They are 180 degrees out of phase in this circuit:

RMCybernetics - DIY Homemade Ignition Coil Driver

[Bodkins]

Interesting Mutten, sounds like a second transformer after the first

Any low voltage diode on the HV side will just act like a conductor, both ways. By low voltage I mean anything under 10kv. HV will by pass these diode, which is why Bodkins was able to fill a cap with diodes pointing away from the cap IMO.

HV diodes
YouTube - Bodkins 35 diode ground.AVI

[Lidmotor]

One Darlington TIP 120 CFL Driver

I had a Darlington transistor on hand (Radio Shack TIP 120) so I replaced the 2n2222s with just that one transistor. It worked. I also used a 1 meg ohm pot between the base and collector and that worked to. I connected the Darlington base to a piece of foil around the ignition coil to get a signal and connected the loose end of the CFL to earth ground.

YouTube - One Darlington Transistor CFL Driver


Lidmotor

[sucahyo]

alternative method to reduce spark

So many interesting things, I am glad I join this thread .

In case anyone still have problem with original design where big spark making the relay stuck. You can reduce the spark by adding the load. I use computer power supply, when the spark got big, the power supply stop it self. When I add many load in series the spark become smaller and the computer power supply do not stop it self anymore.

I series the charged battery with a HHO cell and normal computer fan. It is interesting that the back EMF have enough power to turn the fan too.

I use 9 ohm coil, where Imhotep use 2 ohm coil. I think the spark when using car coil should be much bigger. I think anyone using car coil should series more load to reduce spark.

Here is the video:
YouTube - charging battery, powering HHO cell and powering fan using Imhotep radiant oscillator

Just thinking, maybe with lower coil resistance, higher voltage will be generated. To reduce spark, the load must have higher resistance?

[Inquorate]

@bodkins cap auto charge

I wrote up a theory on dmonarch's radiant matter, page 3 that offers a pretty good explanation for why your cap spontaneously charged bodkins. :-)

[ren]

Interesting Mutten, sounds like a second transformer after the first

Any low voltage diode on the HV side will just act like a conductor, both ways. By low voltage I mean anything under 10kv. HV will by pass these diode, which is why Bodkins was able to fill a cap with diodes pointing away from the cap IMO.

[Mutten]

forgot to mention I fiddled around with another method of charging batteries off the HV out.

I took some 16 or 18 gauge solid core copper wire and looped it around about 8 times on itself in a 4 cm circle, sort of like a choke. Around that I wrapped some 26 gauge enameled copper wire about 200 turns 90 degrees to the current in the 8 turns.

I Put it before the CFLs and connected the HV to my heating duct system in my apartment.

from the 200 turns, I had 2 1n4004 diodes


6v neg battery teriminal --- diode >| ----weird coil ---- diode >| positive battery terminal.

Depending on the frequency I was getting anywhere from 4-12v dc on the battery. I was using a modified 555 circuit pulsing a 2n3055 and a 25ohm reostat to control the voltage going to charge battery.

gotta head to work I'll try to take some pics later.

[Bodkins]

In the last video i charge a cap then dump it into the battery.
It was going for a two day then i remove the cap and shorted it.
The cap jumped back to 10.48volt.
I connected it to a ground on the negative and left it for two hours now its at 15.01 volt.



Mutten interesting stuff

[Mutten]

was playing around yesterday showing my Girlfriend what we've been working on and I stumbled on something interesting.


I had a single wire lighting 2 CFLs, with a diode, and a neon after the diode. Went something like this

Coil HV out --- CFL - CFL -- |< 1n4004 diode - 110 ac neon --

was testing spark gap distance coming off the HV to the neg battery terminal and the spark was about 2-3mm.

I added a 1n4004 diode after the neon and the spark gap increased to about 6mm.

Coil HV out --- CFL - CFL -- |< 1n4004 diode - 110 ac neon -- |< 1n4004 diode

Whats interesting is that the current should only be flowing back to the HV side of the coil because of the diodes, unless I'm missing something.

One other note, the spark gap with no diode at the end was producing some fierce RFI/EM radiation cause my computer speakers 4 meters away were picking up a huge ammount of static. With the addition of the diode after the neon and sparking back to neg battery terminal there was very little RFI, but the gap doubled in size.

Haven't had much time, gonna try and make a video soon.

[Lidmotor]

Tuning the Darlington pair

Nice Lid. So did the resistance increase brightness AND amp draw?

@ Carl. For the two ignition coils to be out of phase with each other you would probably need a flip flop style circuit. Ive been trying to gather parts for one using PWM. Gotoluc's circuit is like this I think. It flips polarity as well, but that is just a matter of how it is configured. We should be trying that on the coil as well I think

@Ren. The preliminary test showed that yes the brightness goes up with the amp draw but there is better control of it now. Reminds me of tuning an SSG for the sweet spot. The little 2222s are very sensitive to "abuse" so you have to be careful. The step down switching adjustable voltage regulator is a critical part of this low power circuit. It is the 90% efficient "electric carburetor" that has let me run this for days on those AA batteries. I have it leaned out to 5v at 20 ma with the light still on.

Lidmotor

[Inquorate]

Neon lit on open circuit

YouTube - Inquorate 21