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Imhotep's Radiant Oscillator Video
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please permit me come here to learn a new member here, may be accepted to study here
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Efficiency of the circuit
Originally posted by Aromaz View PostI got back today and was resetting all on my fq generator when last 555 smoked; replacement 157 km far! Thus I tried something different, anyway not too happy with weak 555 circuits. Then I got some strange actions and readings, so I started unplugging and pulling out from breadboard until only this relevant things were left.
Now this I can not explain, except maybe somehow the coil has gone into self-oscillation. I would love to see if someone else can duplicate this and really be happy to understand the why! I broke all up, used other parts and still got the same results.
See attached circuit.
Parts: 1x 2N2222A, 4x 2N3055, 1x12Vdc battery, 1xHitachi ignition coil, 1x Philips CFG gas tube (all controll board removed) and earth(ground/dirt) wire.
Stats: Battery disconected: 12.24 v, Running 12.16V
Running: Amp from Battery + terminal 0.86 Amp (sometimes up to 1.16A)
Volt at 2N2222A Emitter - 3.03V
Volt at Master 2N3055 Emitter - 2.59V
Volt at coil + 1.87V
Amp at coil + 1.18A
Frequency - connected at + of coil: 5.962k Hz
Same reading without (electrionic) Hz meter connected for distance of up to 42 cm from coil/light - Horizontal. By accident and strange thing: Vertical above the coil the frequency is only 263 Hz and reading up to 220 cm from coil - meter not connected.
Coil does have VERY faint resonance 'whisper'.
All components cold.
No condensor (capacitor) anywhere, no resistor, no diode.
Spark at light about 1.5 to 2.0 mm, blue purple colour.
No feeling anywhere - neither schock on any component.
Touching the 2222 transistor E seems to lighten the bulb a few points.
The light is nearly (85% ??) same is the same light in my roof which is 18W 220V AC.
Oscilloscope shows a strange hoop like wave - similar to Australian Kangaroo! or like standard coil symbol.
PS. Afterthought and went to check: Adding second light INCREASED glow in both lamps to be more than one lamp alone - that is the first light went more bright and second also same bright. With one light a barely noticeable flikker, with two tubes both are very smooth light. Third light seems to keep same brightess as with two - i.o.w. More 'light' in total.
DESCRIPTION:
12v Battery, positive terminal our to parallel supply all 5 transistors connect to Comuter.
Negative terminal got to negative of coil and one point of light bulb.
1st Transistor 2N2222 Base not connected anywhere, but remove and system fails!?
2N2222 Emitter connects to Master 2N3055 Base.
Master 3055 emitter connects to 3x 2N3055 transistors at Base - in parallel.
Earth wire (dirt/land/soil) connects to Emitter of 2N2222
Sorry for drawing on MS-Word 2003. Seems my Rhino 3D can not do PDF or JPEG. Will sort out soon.
Hi Aromaz
How much ampere is consumed Will you plz let us know
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For CFL, here is my version, click to zoom, rounded rectangle is CFL:

Above produce different kind of light. Bellow use the least current. I never try car coil though. Only with 1A 9V adaptor.

Fausto, sorry for just realizing your question. I am using the above circuit for anything.Last edited by sucahyo; 06-24-2011, 04:19 AM.
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Bodkin's kickstarter 2 transistor cfl
Hi Guys
I know this thread is "so last season" but I was wondering if I could have some help from one of you pro's...
I have successfully built several things including the Bedini solid state charger and I've made it run CFL's through an ignition coil. I've had lots of fun doing this and saw lots of weird and wonderful effects doing so.
Now I am trying to get Imhotep's Bodkin's Kick Starter CFL circuit going. The one with the 2 transistors and no oscillator. I have everything exactly like the circuit and watched all the video's on it etc. I'm having no joy. It won't oscillate no matter what I do. When I try to kick start the cfl's flash but won't stay lit. The circuit also doesn't continue to draw any current. I have tried various numbers of bulbs from one to 6. I am using a 50 ohm rheostat turned down to 25 ohm and below. I am using a new brand of 2n3055's that seem to be a lot tougher than the ones I've had previously. They can take a hell of a beating before they die. But now I'm wondering if they maybe aren't sensitive enough for this circuit. They work fine in my solid state charger but that's a whole other story...
Any advice? Thanks
Fjohnnyb
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would you share your solid state version schematic? pictures?Originally posted by sucahyo View PostYou need to take account about how long your coil stays ON. A powered 1 ohm coil get hot quickly in seconds. Solid state can make it ON at milisecond range and thus keep the coils cool.
You can either big air core coil or small ferrite core coil. With coil impedance maybe between 1 to 6 ohm, depend on your load impedance.
Fausto.
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You need to take account about how long your coil stays ON. A powered 1 ohm coil get hot quickly in seconds. Solid state can make it ON at milisecond range and thus keep the coils cool.Originally posted by Geek View PostAnything else to take account of in making the coil ?
You can either big air core coil or small ferrite core coil. With coil impedance maybe between 1 to 6 ohm, depend on your load impedance.
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I love this video is helps in understand what we need to do...little magnets on the relay
YouTube - Stationary Magnetic Field Generator with audio
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Thanks Guru,
RE: Coil construction
I made the circuit with a coil made from thin enamelled copper thread,
0.125mm (40 swg gauge), 7m long, wrapped round a few 4cm long thin nails.
The coil reached about 150 C hot within a minute & its resistance stopped the relay. I see the mistake was wrapping all the wire round in a compact coil at one end of the nails.
Anything else to take account of in making the coil ?
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The charger version of mine do not have secondary. I don't think it is required too for Bedini type of replication.Originally posted by Fluxite View PostAlthough I am not a tesla coil expert, my understanding is that it was tuned between the primary and secondary coils.
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Although I am not a tesla coil expert, my understanding is that it was tuned between the primary and secondary coils.
I expect that both the primary and secondary coils would have output a combined / tuned square wave.
Would this mean that the torus ontop of the coils, output radiant energy as a square wave?
Fluxite.com
Pure Energy
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nice work
Hey group
Newbie to post on the forum.
Great work on the circuit.
Is the theory used a square wave input to a coil that produces induction?
Fluxite.com
Pure Energy
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Sorry, I post the wrong picture, yes it should be a battery.Originally posted by Geek View Post1) I assume the fan is the load to be powered, instead of a battery to charge ?
Via the both coil. The coil with lower impedance produce bigger kick.Originally posted by Geek View Post2) Radiant energy supposedly enters circuit via the relay contacts ?
That is not important. What important is to learn what polarity exist in a coil right after we turn it off.Originally posted by Geek View Post3) Is current flow direction taken as + to -, conventionally although not physically, as we learned in school ?
The coil is not in paralel with the load. The coil is in parallel with the relay coil to provide more kick to the load.Originally posted by Geek View Post4) The coil in parallel with the load provides a short path for the current to bypass the load. This seems counter-productive to feeding the load. Does the coil serve any other purpose ?
The load do not get powered while the relay contact is closed. While the relay contact is closed current will flow to the coil and the real coil. The load will get powered right after the relay contact is open, disrupting the current in both coil. The left over current in the coil will flow to the alternate route we provide, to the load. This kind of electricity has different characteristic.
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Many thnx 4 your help, Sucahyo.
Please 4give my ignorance, but your diagram has posed some questions:
1) I assume the fan is the load to be powered, instead of a battery to charge ?
2) Radiant energy supposedly enters circuit via the relay contacts ?
3) Is current flow direction taken as + to -, conventionally although not physically, as we learned in school ?
4) The coil in parallel with the load provides a short path for the current to bypass the load. This seems counter-productive to feeding the load. Does the coil serve any other purpose ?
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You need current to charge a battery.Originally posted by Geek View Post
I tried your Imhotep relay charger with no success using:
The coil from relay do not produce much current. You can add low impedance coil to the relay and get boosted output. But it may melt your contact.

I now use solid state because it is much silent and much more reliable. I have been running mine for many months. My latest simple version is called stingo.
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