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I can tell you that Matt has the generator all designed, (I replicated it) has got most of it put together, but has NOT gotten all of the testing done. He is the type of guy that wants to build it and make sure it works before he puts anything out there that any of YOU are going to spend your money on. If he says build it, it will be because he KNOWS it works. You will not be testing some half assed theory he came up with, but will be replicating a working model.
You also need to understand that we have some stuff that works, but what we are trying to do here is SIMPLIFY things so that you can build something WITHOUT having to spend several thousand dollars (as I have done) to have a working system. So he knows WHAT will work. He built a small working prototype. I replicated it. Then I built my BIG gen which will really put out some power. Now he is trying to put together a "basic" model that can prove the concept (to YOU) without a lot of expense. And what he has come up with , he believes, will be better than the small working model he has, which ALREADY proves this will work. That's why we are so confident. We have already seen it. AND we have it on video.
If you got a few thousand lying around, I can get you the plans for the gen I built. That few thousand isn't for me by the way, it's the cost of materials and machine labor. But what Matt has come up with here we think will be simpler and even BETTER on a $ for $ cost basis. Since I built MY generator we have come up with half a dozen improvements that require a complete rebuild, but will make it a much, MUCH better generator, and I am in the process of making those modifications now. All it takes is time and money. Have to completely disassemble it and change all the rotors, the core material on the coils, and a couple other things. But this is a learning process.
And this NEW design, scaled up, may be even better. With what he is going to have YOU build, it will NOT be as expensive as mine, it will be much simpler, but it also will not put out the power I was going for. It would have to be scaled up to do that. The idea is to show you it works so you will be committed enough to figure out a way to come up with the money to BUILD a bigger unit. And if we get ENOUGH people interested, maybe we can figure out some ways to get the cost down for everybody. By the way, my remodeled gen is powered by the modified razor scooter motor, and uses the kind of circuits we have been talking about.
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Don't let it confuse you.
If you put the north face of a magnet against the outside of TOP of an MY1016, it turns out the magnet on the inside MIGHT have its north face up and it MIGHT have its south face up, depending on the motor. I was trying to decide whether opposing magnets was causing the motor to speed up or attracting magnets, so it is important to know this, but it turns out there is no way to know which it is without taking the motor apart. And some MY1016 motors do not HAVE a magnet on top. the magnets are in an "X" pattern inside the case rather than a "+" pattern (in relation to the flat base on the bottom of the motor). But they are still four magnets in a NSNS pattern, so are all the same. It only matters if you are sticking magnets to the outside and are wondering if you are opposing or attracting the magnet inside.
Dave
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This is getting confusing The pic attached shows the can I have 4 magnets alternating poles.
Is this different from the my10....?
Thats not the winding I'm using just to show the magnets.
artvAttached Files
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Dave,
Went and double checked and it was south to south.Side motor magnets are south facing out And top ones are north out.
Joe
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Originally posted by Turion View PostRue,
If your razor scooter motor has magnets that are like this "+" in the case rather than like this "X" in the case, the top magnet has the North side facing the rotor and the South side against the case. So when you put magnets on the outside of the case, did you place the North face of the magnet against the case or the South side against the case? That is what Matt is talking about when he is talking about the alignment of the magnets.
When I did my video, I only put magnets on the left and right, and none on the top and bottom. I got acceleration and no additional amp draw. When I placed the magnets, the North side of the motor magnet was facing out (toward the case) and I put the North side of the magnet on the outside of the case against the case. So North to North.
Dave
I was doing south to north.With north to north it didnt seem to speed up but maybe my magnets are too big. Will try it some more and see what it does.
Joe
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Magnet alignment
Rue,
If your razor scooter motor has magnets that are like this "+" in the case rather than like this "X" in the case, the top magnet has the North side facing the rotor and the South side against the case. So when you put magnets on the outside of the case, did you place the North face of the magnet against the case or the South side against the case? That is what Matt is talking about when he is talking about the alignment of the magnets.
When I did my video, I only put magnets on the left and right, and none on the top and bottom. I got acceleration and no additional amp draw. When I placed the magnets, the North side of the motor magnet was facing out (toward the case) and I put the North side of the magnet on the outside of the case against the case. So North to North.
Dave
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fields
Hi Joe, with those big neos, It would surley saturate the can.
I use layers of laminated cores from Xfrmrs for shims with magnets, if the layer of steel is small enough ,it becomes part of the magnet.
Did you let that motor rest and then hook it up again like the beginning? With out the neos ,Was the rpm higher?
6 amps compared to the 1.4 is quite a bit.
Excellent video btw.
artv
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To All:
watch you tube video about the star gate motor.
search for "stargate motor full demo"
Originally posted by RUEI got my new my 1016 280 watt motor. Ran it stock on 24 volts and at was at 3600 rpm with about 1 amp draw.Interestingly after I put those big neos on it sped up to 12000 rpm but the amp draw went way up. Pulled the neos back off and it was still at 5500 at about 1.4 amps.Will post a video.
Joe
YouTube
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Hi all, Would putting magnets on the outside not just magnitize the can for a short period of time, acting like bigger stators for awhile?
Causing more lenz, since the field has been increased, remove the magnets less drag ,less rpm and less power required?
To Matt, I have my mag track running 3 ft to a height of 10in. Sucks the magnet in at the start, but wants to hold it at the end of the run.
Thanks guys
artv
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You have to pull the energy through the HHO generator to get the best effect. It's crazy efficient.Originally posted by Matthew JonesI have run several HHO generators with a Tesla Switch. You get near lossless transmission of the power between banks.
If you look at those Stan Meyer plans he shows a load after his plates. Makes you wonder why a load? Why not just return the power.
Matt

-Altrez
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Hello All,
I am still hard at it, hopefully can post some new stuff soon. Had a breakthrough with HHO and the Tesla Switch. If you have built one based on wave-forms and frequency your mind should of just had an awwwhaaaa moment
Some good stuff coming soon!
Almost ready to start winding my motors lol

-Altrez
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MY1016 36 volt
Hey Matt,
I have the my1016 36 volt that is modified per your post.
Amp draw: 2.2 volts
Rpm: 2100
Running off two batteries in series 20 volts or less. If both were fully charged I guess the rpms would be higher.
Dave,
Not tried the neo thing with these motors, I saw a guy on Youtube with a set-up that he claimed was efficient.
wantomake
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The magnets were 1" by 3/4". I have a ton of those. The only other news I have are 1 1/2 by 1/4 or MUCH bigger.
Dave
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RUE,
Matt asked me to replicate what you had going, since I have three or four stock MY1016 motors lying around. I did this morning and posted a video to YouTube for him. I did get the stock motor (12 volts) to speed up with the magnets on the outside, but the amp draw did not go up. I haven't posted it because I hate revealing how stupid I am at times. I had my meter on the wire incorrectly, so I had a negative amp reading, plus I said something like "You can hear a visible difference" which makes NO sense at all. LOL. Anyway, Matt suggested I post it, so I will. I opened the case and used a piece of masking tape (centered on the magnets) to show me where the magnets are when the case is closed. As you will see, when I have the magnets CENTERED on the interior magnets, the amp draw didn't go up. When I reset the magnets at the end and they weren't perfectly centered, the amp draw DID go up. A couple other folks should give this a shot, and then I will try it with the modified motor and see what happens.
I spent the entire day today working in my new shop to just try and get organized. But I just have too much stuff. I don't have enough room to put it all. My new shop is 10 by 23 and my old shop was 8 x 10, and all this crap was in the old shop, so I don't understand why it won't all fit in the new one! I think there must have been a hidden black hole in the old shop that let me store stuff in a different dimension or something.
Motor - YouTubeLast edited by Turion; 02-22-2015, 12:38 AM.
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I have a couple stock motors I can try this with. Where did you place the magnets?Originally posted by RUE
I bought one according to Matts specs. It is a 4 pole my1016 280 watt.
I hooked it up to 24v and the rpm was about 3600 with an amp draw of 2.1.
I stuck a couple of neos on the sides of it and the rpm went to 18600 with an amp draw of 2.8. Pulled the neos back off and it dropped back to 9500.
Joe. R.
Dave
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