Basic Free Energy Device

[shylo]

multiple strands

Hi Glen, I've found when winding parallel , if they short to each other, it will cause slow rotation and heavy draw.
You are probably shorted somewhere.
I wound Matts with ~17 guage , a single strand,all I had, but my windings amp draw is too high. Need to find some wire.
I think slip rings for each individual set of coils, instead of a commutator, is whats needed.
Commutators' always have overlap, unless you leave a blank.
The blank is too big. And they should not mix.
As one coil is dropping, the next has to be climbing.
Climbing creates an opposite reaction, dropping creates an opposite reaction.
They have to work together. It's the same as Matts' Bouncer.
Sorry just getting sidetracked.
artv

[GlenWV]

Rewound motor...

Just make sure to check your continuity, through the contacts on the commutator. Other than looks good.

I would like to hear some results of the motors running, speeds and current draw at given voltages to see if the pattern is holding consistent.

Matt

Greetings:

I wound one of the MY1016 motors yesterday using 4 strands of litzed #26, I think, gauge wire that was left over from something or other. (Was hanging from the rafters and seemed like a good idea at the time.)

Hooked it to 12VDC to see if she'd play and it ran. Ran slow, but was steady. Figured to test at higher voltages and then try the UFO pulser. Will note voltage, speed & current next go 'round.

Got sidetracked fighting snow.....

Will wind another motor with larger diameter wire .... gotta remember where its buried.

glen

[mikehull]

Slow progress

I have managed to wind the motor, I think.

See attached photos show my efforts so far, can anyone spot any deliberate mistakes before I epoxy it, as afterwards it is obviously more difficult to re-wind.

Looking forward to moving forward with this project.

Mike

IMG_0698[1].jpg

IMG_0692[1].jpg

IMG_0695[1].jpg

[wantomake]

Hi Wtm, I haven't seen this yet. I did something similar last year, didn't pan out.
What are the 2 arrows pointing at each other, between the bridge and the trans. 2ndary?
Also you have both dc outs of the bridge going to neg, bad and good bats?
Is the negative of the good battery more or less positive , than the dead battery?
You might be wasting half your output??
I have the parts will try and do a setup.
Whats the M , Matts design?
Whats the gen design?
Thanks ....artv

artv,
Will answer in order of questions.
Spark gap.
Yes. Same connections for the stock motor. Or you can connect to the good battery only to charge it.
As for this setup- the neg of good battery is negative and neg of bad battery is positive connect for the stock motor which is prime mover.
You mean output from the generator or the good and bad batteries?
M means stock motor.
Generator is Matt's design.

I've gotten 4-6 hour runs from this 2BGS. I have tried many different variations with principle idea.

Hope this helps.
wantomake

[shylo]

Hi Wtm, I haven't seen this yet. I did something similar last year, didn't pan out.
What are the 2 arrows pointing at each other, between the bridge and the trans. 2ndary?
Also you have both dc outs of the bridge going to neg, bad and good bats?
Is the negative of the good battery more or less positive , than the dead battery?
You might be wasting half your output??
I have the parts will try and do a setup.
Whats the M , Matts design?
Whats the gen design?
Thanks ....artv

[wantomake]

Drawing

Hi WTM, I'm a little confused by your description, you have the motor connected to the grounds?
A drawing would help.
To me it is 2 good batteries in series , paralleled with a dead battery, the positive post of the good bats , and the positive of the dead battery, for the motor connections.
1+...motor, 1-...2+,...2-,...3-,...3+,...motor.
3 being the dead battery
artv

artv,
Here is best I can do sorry for the crude drawing.

KINDLE_CAMERA_1422823770000.jpg

[shylo]

Thanks for the answers , I'm finding that charging a battery ,with just a few volts higher ,low amperage , longer time, gives the battery alot more run time.
I just wonder if the amps can be reduced ,next to nothing?
But I could be wrong.
artv

[wantomake]

Hi WTM, I'm a little confused by your description, you have the motor connected to the grounds?
A drawing would help.
To me it is 2 good batteries in series , paralleled with a dead battery, the positive post of the good bats , and the positive of the dead battery, for the motor connections.
1+...motor, 1-...2+,...2-,...3-,...3+,...motor.
3 being the dead battery
artv

Hey artv,
Will get that drawing posted , just having problems. My kindle not made to do so.

Sorry,
wantomake

[Dfortune]

Battery charging

There are hundreds of battery types and voltages but from what I understand
20 to 25 % over the rated value (Voltage) should be fine.As for the amp and duty choose components so that the battery does not overheat (120 deg.F +/-)
My undestanding of electronics is limited hence I cannot give you precise values.

To your success!

[shylo]

capacitive discharge

Hi Dfortune, At what capacity value, at what voltage, and at what time frame?
Thanks artv

[Dfortune]

Radiant charging a battery is not good?

Charging a battery from inductive collapse (bemf) seems to alter the charging capacity or chemistry.

That was the conclusion found from John Bedini and is early chargers
now he uses capacitive discharge in his battery chargers.

[shylo]

confused

Hi WTM, I'm a little confused by your description, you have the motor connected to the grounds?
A drawing would help.
To me it is 2 good batteries in series , paralleled with a dead battery, the positive post of the good bats , and the positive of the dead battery, for the motor connections.
1+...motor, 1-...2+,...2-,...3-,...3+,...motor.
3 being the dead battery
artv

[wantomake]

Hi WTM, I have a battery that did the same thing awhile back. I still have that battery and still use it. Were you trying to put charge into? I was using the motor to turn a smaller motor and was feeding the front battery with charged caps and blocking diodes so the battery could only accept cap dumps.
But then I changed things around trying different stuff and haven't seen it since.
Sorry not much help just to let you know.
artv

Thanks artv,
I put the charge to the neg post of good and bad batteries where the prime mover (stock my1016) is connected.
I'm coupled to a larger my1016 modified to Matt's specifications. The only reason I even post is the strange 200+ ac ~ -80 ac spikes that come off the back of the generator end cap. I'm measuring between the end cap and negative of bad battery.

I've never seen that long a run without any drainage on the good battery. Then bang it dropped that suddenly.

Is this normal? Or better yet is anything normal with this 3BGS or the 2BGS I'm using???
wantomake

[shylo]

voltage drop

Hi WTM, I have a battery that did the same thing awhile back. I still have that battery and still use it. Were you trying to put charge into? I was using the motor to turn a smaller motor and was feeding the front battery with charged caps and blocking diodes so the battery could only accept cap dumps.
But then I changed things around trying different stuff and haven't seen it since.
Sorry not much help just to let you know.
artv

[wantomake]

Still strange

Yes that seems possible. But why doesn't all that just leave via the connection wires? The motor/generator combo changes speed as the meter flips to negative voltage readings. Then returns to same normal speed.

It kept main battery charged up to 12.6 volts for 4 or 5 hours and never lost a tenth of a volt. Then suddenly within 30 ~ 45 seconds dropped down to 10.4 volts!! That I've never seen happen. Not in the good battery at lest .So I turned it off, don't want to ruin a good battery.

Suppose to rain tomorrow, so will do a long run again and see if same happens.

Made video's but don't to YouTube them until get something useful.

wantomake