Bedini Ferris Wheel Regauging Motor

[John_Bedini]

Bedini GT3

Brent,
That coil is looking good, are you going to cut out the center hole for the welding rods, I did mine first so I could reinforce the spool. Your coil impedance looks to be about right. Sorry, got real busy at work but then discovered I left my computer on. My cable is intermittent here at home right now. But that coil is looking real good.
John B

[Ecancanvas]

Thanks everyone

genessc, Your suggestion worked. I tried about 10 different sizes of caps, found by reducing from 10000uf to 470-1000 that the mosfet started cycling and charging battery without slowing rotor or adding amp draw on primary.
Thanks again
ED

[FRC]

Thanks all last few posts

The PIC16F887A is not easy to program. I would highly recommend easier and cheaper ones such as Arduido. You will also need a programmer. If you computer does not have an old serial port you will have to spend more buying a USB/serial port converter.

I prefer now using Arduido because its absurd simplicity, easy of setup and use and its open source concept and those ones come with USB cable too which saves you a little bit.

My 2 cents.

Fausto.

After having trouble understanding what they were doing with the Hex controller on the other thread, these last few posts have woke me up. I have old computers with RS232 ports that were used for external modems
and mouse ports. I also know a bit of programing in BASIC. So you have opened me up to a whole new area where, at least, I know a little bit about,
and is more dos based (which I prefer anyway). Hope to start using some of
these things myself. We need all the help we can get trying to build these
circuits.

FRC

[plengo]

Hello John K. Great INFO Would your PIC code work on my PIC16F887A I'm trying to program this pic to do the same testing. I'm new to programming and at 50 its not getting easer.

Randy

The PIC16F887A is not easy to program. I would highly recommend easier and cheaper ones such as Arduido. You will also need a programmer. If you computer does not have an old serial port you will have to spend more buying a USB/serial port converter.

I prefer now using Arduido because its absurd simplicity, easy of setup and use and its open source concept and those ones come with USB cable too which saves you a little bit.

My 2 cents.

Fausto.

[John_K]

Solid State Bedini S1GT

Hi Randy,

Looking at some of the info for your PIC, I don't think so. My PIC18F4520 (PICAXE 40X2) is programmed in Basic. I think your uses a different programming method.

You could use a lower end PICAXE, like an 18M or go for the higher end 28X2 or 40X2. The programming is fairly simple and you can d/l the s/w and programming manuals for free.


John K.

Hello John K. Great INFO Would your PIC code work on my PIC16F887A I'm trying to program this pic to do the same testing. I'm new to programming and at 50 its not getting easer.

Randy

[John_K]

Solid State Bedini S1GT

Hi Vissie,

Thanks. I just added the diode but there was no noticeable difference.


John K.

John K
I think you will get more power to that cap if you add a diode on the top negative side to
Vissie

[nvisser]

John K
I think you will get more power to that cap if you add a diode on the top negative side to
Vissie

[Mr.Whip]

Solid State Bedini S1GT

Hello John K. Great INFO Would your PIC code work on my PIC16F887A I'm trying to program this pic to do the same testing. I'm new to programming and at 50 its not getting easer.

Randy

[John_K]

Solid State Bedini S1GT

Hi Folks,

Since I'm still waiting for parts to continue my 4' rotor S1GT I built a solid state version, using a PIC to simulate the switching from the passing magnets on the rotor to switch the circuit.

The first phase pulses the coil for 20mS and then pauses for 100mS, giving a duty cycle of 16.67%. It loops this 5 times. Each series of 5 pulses charges a 6,800uF 50V cap to about 20V. The run battery is 12V in this simulation.

The second phase uses an inverted cap pulser, which is controlled by the PIC to dump the cap into the secondary battery. This occurs every 700mS.

The quad-filar coil is using 2 windings in parallel, each winding measures 6.3 ohms for a total of 3.15 ohms. The other 2 windings are not connected.

A schematic is attached. The circuit draws 300mA @ 12.5V in pulses and the transistors are cold, meaning that I am not over-saturating the coil and wasting any energy on the input.

I uploaded a video which shows scope shots of the cap charging and dumping and also the waveform over the coil. It also shows the cap voltage on an analog volt meter, as well as the draw current on an analog ammeter. I also show the voltages of the primary and secondary batteries, however that is not important because these gel-cells are junk lab rats.

The purpose of the simulation was to show the timing and the waveform that I believe we are looking for. Also, I wanted to demonstrate that with the correct timing and duty cycle the transistors should remain cold. IMO, if the transistors are getting warm then the coil is "on" for too long and the transistor converts the wasted input energy into heat, as will the coil.

I could easily place the coil under my 4' rotor to turn the wheel and use the mechanical energy without adding anything to the input, free energy. I can also rotate the primary and secondary batteries when the primary eventually runs down and get extra mechanical energy from the rotor.

The solid state circuit alone probably has a COP of 0.9 if you take into account the energy to run the PIC and cicruit losses, meaning that most of the input energy is recovered into the secondary battery. Of course, the condition of the batteries would have a big impact on this number. If you add in the free mechanical energy you could get from the rotor you would easily be over the top.

I hope this simulation helps some people to setup their own replications of John B's 3GT.

I will post another video later on with the same circuit running on 36V on the front end. Please post any comments or feedback.

YouTube - Solid State Bedini S1GT


John K.

[Mr.Whip]

@ Mr.Whip, check post #861 p29. That should help answer any questions about the coils.


Brian

Thanks Brian. I swear things are added to these post every time I go back threw them I find something New that was not there before. But I didn't see where they were edited. Thanks again

Randy

[wrench76]

coil data

@ Mr.Whip, check post #861 p29. That should help answer any questions about the coils.


Brian

[txaggie00]

Randy, no such thing as a dumb question and pictures can definitely be misleading. Thanks for the kudos on the jig. We wound the first control winding onto a smaller reel by hand. Will never do that again !! The jig certainly saved our shoulders and we don't need anything else affecting our golf game

Thanks,
Scott

Hello Scott Sorry about the dumb question about the wire its just that in the pic. it looked like a single wire. Just my old eyes. But seriously nice winding Jig.

Also Thanks Vissie and Dave for your comments on mag amp control windings


Randy

[Mr.Whip]

Hello Scott Sorry about the dumb question about the wire its just that in the pic. it looked like a single wire. Just my old eyes. But seriously nice winding Jig.

Also Thanks Vissie and Dave for your comments on mag amp control windings


Randy

[txaggie00]

@ Mark, Great job and nice video!

@ Randy, We wound all 4 wires at the same time. Our wheel is 6ft in diameter. I think there is a picture of it on page 26 or 27.

EDIT: The picture of the wheel is here

Thanks,
Scott

[Mr.Whip]

Winding is done

Hello everyone.
Wow Very nice winding jig. I was wondering what would be a better way to wind these huge coils. The 2 power winding on the big coil should be in series Unless I missed somthing. All 3 coils slave's and main are in parrallel.
Great looking coils. How big did you say you where making the wheel? Did you wind all 4 wires together or 1 on top the other?


Randy