Bedini Solid State Oscillators

[kcarring]

It looks good If you're after good desulfator: get some "serious" wire (21 or thicker), MJL 21194 and make aircore trifilar (to start with), using 100' of each strand twisted together. Make voltage divider to bias transistor so it will self oscillate (20k/10k resistors).Try both config. First,with one end of trigger wire to neg. - take a note of your charging rate. Than try inverted trigger, with wire connected to the positive rail of your input. Current input will go up but notice your charging rate. In this configuration you'll need very low input potential to start oscillator. It will charge in cloudy day. You'll need good size cap on the input (25-35V rated) to couple impedance between PVC and coil. The reason that your circuit hesitates to start maybe too high impedance of your coil. Too much or not enough wire may cause a problem.
Vtech

@blackchisel
Thank-you very much for the input. My existing build is trifilar with 18 gauge on the runs, 26 on the trigger, and the momentary switch definitely did the trick for starting it. you say "In this configuration you'll need very low input potential to start oscillator. It will charge in cloudy day." - that may be key to getting the solid state to startup unattended without the need for any overly elaborate PICAXE diagnostics, (and consequential programmed "triggering") etc. Simple is good.

This is my setup here.

@all
I've decided, gone are the days of ripping stuff apart, and starting over. The problem with this, is; as I see it: you don't end up with enough models to "compare", and thus you are forced to go by memory as to one working better than another, or you look back at your own youtube videos.

So I am going to build more, each time, I'm saying. On the other hand, I do like to "use what I have", to a great extent.

Now, I've taken some laughing and flack for this: but, this is my next attempt, and the main reason, was, I have the materials and they were cheap; very cheap.

And that is, aluminum magnet wire. I have 1000' of enamel coated transformer magnet wire. It is just that: transformer wire, not some hobby craft wire I bought.

To potentially bypass a whole bunch of back 'n force, I did a bit of research, and quite frankly I'm not the type to fret over $20.. if it works, great, if it doesn't it wont be the first nor the last $20 I spent/wasted. I'll quote a few things from Val-Tech Inc.

Aluminum wound transformers are lighter in weight than copper wound equivalents. < TRUE

Copper-wound low voltage transformers are better for "high-impact" loads because copper has higher tensile strength than aluminum. < FALSE

Aluminum-wound transformers have higher losses because copper is a better conductor. < FALSE

Aluminum-wound transformers have higher hot-spot temperatures because copper is a better thermal conductor than aluminum. < FALSE

"To keep the temperature below the insulation rating, aluminum transformers are designed with aluminum conductors of larger cross-sectional area than copper. On average, this results in energy losses that are the same for aluminum as for copper. Therefore, transformers of similar design with the same temperature rise have roughly equivalent losses regardless of conductor material. "

So arguments aside I am going to try it and risk all 20 dollars. I bartered the guy down, got a deal, it's in my hand. Similar copper would have costed me a fair bit more and I wanted to try this.

The 18 ga. wire is rated for 6A, whereas similar copper would be rated for 10A. I think from my experiences it's pretty safe to say the stuff is not going to see 6A per strand. And if it does, I'm probably doing something very wrong.
Both strands together in my existing SS circuit, combined create a draw of maximum 1.5A and when it runs at 100Hz, even, it doesn't get that warm, really.

So the question in my mind is not whether to use it or not, I am using it and I'll find out how it performs. The question is, instead 100' like the copper should i consider going shorter, longer?

Now am i thinking about this correctly, or not:

For a given number of feet of wire, aluminum being less conductive, will be more resistive, so one could shorten the length but then one would have less turns, unless the core was slightly reduced in size?

The easier answer would be "go higher gauge". But that's not an option, because I have bought the wire, but it is 18 gauge, not 23 or 24.

What are your thoughts? Please bear in mind, I'm building a desulphator, not a free energy device.


I look forward to building this and several more Bedinis before straying too far. Although on this variant I may wire it as a Tesla Oscillator circuit with cap and diode mode, as shown by 49'er who is pretty darn active at desulphating batteries.

I had planned on using a helical bobbin style form, though.

Thanks for any input!

[SkyWatcher]

Hi folks, Hi kcarring, thanks for sharing the video.
I'm using the joule thief circuit with the parallel resistor/capacitor/diode network off the transistor base.
This turns on the transistors much better and prevents the heat normally seen with the joule thief at higher voltage inputs.
Also, the joule thief circuit really kicks out the voltage for desulphating and charging.
Though if your going to use bedini type pulser, you could use the variant with a resistor from positive to base, then the trigger wire from emitter to resistor to base, equal resistor values seem to work best.
This should start oscillating with no problems.
And then the standard bedini, with the 20kohm from collector to base and 10kohm from base to emitter.
Hope that helps for now, otherwise, i can post circuits if needed.
peace love light
tyson

[blackchisel97]

It looks good If you're after good desulfator: get some "serious" wire (21 or thicker), MJL 21194 and make aircore trifilar (to start with), using 100' of each strand twisted together. Make voltage divider to bias transistor so it will self oscillate (20k/10k resistors).Try both config. First,with one end of trigger wire to neg. - take a note of your charging rate. Than try inverted trigger, with wire connected to the positive rail of your input. Current input will go up but notice your charging rate. In this configuration you'll need very low input potential to start oscillator. It will charge in cloudy day. You'll need good size cap on the input (25-35V rated) to couple impedance between PVC and coil.
The reason that your circuit hesitates to start maybe too high impedance of your coil. Too much or not enough wire may cause a problem.

Vtech

[kcarring]

My First Multifilar

After many, many months of experimenting with my 26" alloy rim no iron setup, and a bought PCB/Coil from rick (basic SSG), 42 cycles later I decided, ok, I will take a shot at a solid State. Especially after seeing soem videos of a fellow who goes by 49er, he really has some copper singing that fellow.

I have since taken his advice, made som modifications, including getting the protection diodes to work, and reducing my base resistors to 22 ohms each, with an additional 68 ohm resistor between my pot and trigger start. This allows for very low hertz operation, when desired.

Next on the list is a momentary switch (with a resistor?) between B & C, for a start switch. My circuit works, but doesn't like to start, easily. Been thinking about winding very fine wire at the end of the coil as a pickup to (even dimly) light an LED as an oscillation indicator.

For me, it's not about FE, at all, it's about the fact these things desulphate. I have a Yurt in the mountains and the eventual goal is to have this desulphate batteries, as they do get "left sitting a lot". This is the start anyway, my battery bank is 20 T105's and 6 Rolls. 1800 watts. Still on 12v.

As I said, I have made some improvements; noted above since this vid. It seems to have no problem charging a 27 series RV battery 100 a/H - and you know, at low amps, maybe 500 mA. So considering there isn't a charger on the market (except maybe at r-charge!) that does that... that's rather unique in itself. And offers flexibility for the "small solar panel".

One of my main goals is figure out how you can use caps to create the stability necessary to run one of these things directly off of solar.

Critique welcome, even harsh critique - I can take it.

Bedini SS SSG 2T - First Attempt - YouTube

[blackchisel97]

http://www.energeticforum.com/renewa...tml#post171806

That's neat

Thanks
V

[blackchisel97]

HELP Please:Correction: My trifilar has third winding going to the bridge. Sixfilar has 5 MJL's, not one. You can use it as is or use separate bridge for each power winding and parallel them together at DC side. With cap across your bridge and charging battery disconnected output voltage may climb to even more than that. I did experience that once, trying to fix terminal connection. My arm went numb for a few minutes. There is also a risk of blowing cap. I never operate without charging battery connected. Question: I have tried to get the current down to the required 250 milli amps per transistor and thus lower the output voltage, I have taken the RX to 500 ohms, brings the amps draw to 650ma, I have connected a 400 ohms 20 watt resistor in series with the 500 ohm reostate, makes it a total of 900 ohms, current draw stays at 650 ma, even if I ad more resistance to the RX amps stay at 650 ma? It seems that your circuit choose this spot for a reason

Please your input guys how can I get the current draw lower?

Your current draw for such coil is correct. 250mA is base current for MJL, not total input draw. My trifilar solid state was pulling 1.3 - 1.5A with AWG18. It would be better to find best charging spot and replace rheostat with resistor and 12V bulb in series. Bulb will act as dynamic trigger resistor, since it changes resistance with variable current flow (cold bulb - low resistance, glowing - higher). You could probably use small automotive 12V5W bulb and adjust rheostat to barely glow in dark room. Then turn into higher resistance, just a tiny bit. Measure rheostat and replace with fixed resistor.

@ V-tech have you thought of using JB scalar north facing magnets in your 6 coiler you are building?

I did one setup with superpole configuration. In order to get it right, magnets need to be matched very well (Gauss value). Simplest but not very precise way is a paperclip test.
Resulting poles are extending further but are very sharp, thous, matching magnets is very important. With mismatch magnets tuning maybe difficult and resulting wave form not pretty. Using neodymium maybe even more Interesting but proper cradle needs to be made to clamp and secure them together. Also, non magnetic shaft, bearings and surrounding is very important. John Bedini has very nice sketch of such field on his front page. I printed and keep on the wall above my bench.
I'm hoping to go back to the scalar component effect experiments and applications of Caduceus Coil. This is very intriguing field and I believe there is more than one application it can be used for.
There is an interesting experiment with two magnets forced in repelling mode and coil wound around. Coil needs to be pulsed. Certain beneficial effects can be observed.

Thanks
V

[minoly]

Please your input guys how can I get the current draw lower?

V

http://www.energeticforum.com/renewable-energy/7051-joule-ringer-31.html#post171806

[Virus]

HELP Please:Question: I have tried to get the current down to the required 250 milli amps per transistor and thus lower the output voltage, I have taken the RX to 500 ohms, brings the amps draw to 650ma, I have connected a 400 ohms 20 watt resistor in series with the 500 ohm reostate, makes it a total of 900 ohms, current draw stays at 650 ma, even if I ad more resistance to the RX amps stay at 650 ma?

Please your input guys how can I get the current draw lower?

@ V-tech have you thought of using JB scalar north facing magnets in your 6 coiler you are building?

Thanks
V

[blackchisel97]

This video shows the sealed hydrate cells running in a primary and secondary configuration and running the LED. The voltage and amperage goes up on the secondary cells and the osc circuit still lights the LED bright. This is not something that needs to be done we are only showing that it can be done. This would be better on a NiMh battery which we will show later.


Crystal battery charging crystal battery - YouTube

I put a NiMh AAA battery on this circuit last Friday. It was at about .8V as I had ran it dead and left it on a osc circuit all night. Today the AAA NiMh is at 1.166V. I put 4 of the Sealed hydrate cells in parallel to do this. We will try to show a video of this later

I'm only posting here for the benefit of those that don't get over to the earth light tread as this semiconductor (solid state) power source is part of the solid state osc circuit JohnBedini and I build. Hope this is not a distraction to this thread.

Chuck

Thank you Chuck John and you are the last people on Earth that need to worry about distracting. It is much appreciated.

Vtech

[chuck H]

Hydrate crystal cell (semiconductor solid state) charging

This video shows the sealed hydrate cells running in a primary and secondary configuration and running the LED. The voltage and amperage goes up on the secondary cells and the osc circuit still lights the LED bright. This is not something that needs to be done we are only showing that it can be done. This would be better on a NiMh battery which we will show later.


Crystal battery charging crystal battery - YouTube

I put a NiMh AAA battery on this circuit last Friday. It was at about .8V as I had ran it dead and left it on a osc circuit all night. Today the AAA NiMh is at 1.166V. I put 4 of the Sealed hydrate cells in parallel to do this. We will try to show a video of this later

I'm only posting here for the benefit of those that don't get over to the earth light tread as this semiconductor (solid state) power source is part of the solid state osc circuit JohnBedini and I build. Hope this is not a distraction to this thread.

Chuck

[blackchisel97]

Patrick, if I may suggest; make your coil tighter (smaller ID) and use tie bands to secure together. I made while ago solid state (inverted trigger) with salvaged phone cable (multifilar). Despite the wire being thin it did work well. I wound on shorted plastic spool from florist (ribbon spool) to make job easier. I found beefier (shorter) coils working better than slim and tall. I wonder if anyone tried Mobius aircoil made with the above? They have a "twist" and tend to hold flux within. Even trifilar, with third winding going to the bridge. Just a

V

[minoly]

Solid State JB's SSG - YouTube

Anyway it sure does charge well and will not take much for anyone to replicate. The batteries are important. 6 volt to 6 volt does charge but not as well.

Patrick

[blackchisel97]

Hi V-tech

I am replicating your solid state JB charger, can you please post the connection wiring to the bridge rectifier as it fits into the rest of the circuit, I am using a single diode but think that a FWBR will be beter and also how you connected your multitier coil, in the picture looks like one of the wires of the coil are bridged?

Thanks

Virus

Hi Virus, This one was (I had to sell it ) based on trifilar - transformer style coil. What that means is that coil has three windings with same type and length of wire, so it is like a transformer 1:1:1. While first two are connected in typical SSG (with exception - there is no output diode from collector) third winding is connected directly to the AC pins of bridge rectifier. Both, "+" and "-" are connected to the charging battery, according to polarity. I built a few variations of this circuit before, experimenting mainly with wire thickness and length. I found AWG#18 giving nice strong pulse and 100' length optimal.
Of course, it will work with thinner wire so if you have 20,21, or 24 available - us it.

V

[Virus]

Please share

To work with 100Ah batteries you need either multicoil/multifilar rotor or multifilar solid state and I mean multi not just three windings. Make sure your base resistance is not too high and observe the input draw. Circuit will oscillate with higher than necessary resistance but charging rate may be poor due to the weak pulses.
My small trifilar solid state can charge 20Ah battery within couple hours but I have 3x 100' of AWG#18. Wire thickness makes a difference.
Also, it takes time to desulfate and format battery with radiant pulse. After that you'll notice much shorter time required to fully charge battery.
Please check my youtube prototype of six filar solid state and the charging rate with large industrial battery. Again, this battery has been reclaimed and formatted before.
I don't use cap pulser with my trifilar. I charge off the bridge rectifier.


Vtech

Hi V-tech

I am replicating your solid state JB charger, can you please post the connection wiring to the bridge rectifier as it fits into the rest of the circuit, I am using a single diode but think that a FWBR will be beter and also how you connected your multitier coil, in the picture looks like one of the wires of the coil are bridged?

Thanks

Virus

[dnewkirk]

I have built my solid state bedini using a 555 timer as a trigger. The trigger is set to be about 290Hz. My problem is that the setup seems to work but the charge time of my capacitor is very slow. It only gains about 0.5V per minute.
I can't draw proper schematic drawings but I sketched out my circuit and attached it. My thoughts are that the mosfet is a bit weak. What can you suggest. Thanks.

The pin out of the IRF820 (looking at it with the leads pointing down) from left to right is Gate-Drain-Source. Your drawing shows the 555 output connected to Drain pin of the power mosfet. Also, on the spec sheet, the channel resistance is given as 3 ohms, as opposed to the typical milliohms of a lesser rated device. Depending on the pulse rate/width and coil impedance, that much Rd-s might hamper charging efficency in the end.
Just my 2 cents. Keep going.