Bedini Solid State Oscillators

[blackchisel97]

transistors

Hi folks.
Each transistor type may have a different characteristics, different h21 thus, it may perform different. I believe John Bedini had plenty of time trying various ones, and from my experience with SSG I know that it makes a difference. Excessive heat from oscillating transistor is a sign of wasted energy. There is a different current flow in "static" and different in resonance.
Look at this circuit as sub circuits (blocks, etc.) connected together. Take your oscillating part with coil and run as SSG, charging off the collector (by diode of course). Observe IN current and measure potential across 1 Ohm resistor connected instead of charging battery. You can do this with rotor (you'll need to change 18k to 50 -500mA bulb and variable resistor in series. Also remove 10k and replace with diode, just like in SSG circuit.) If you ever built SSG before, tuning should be easy. With self oscillating coil however, you'll find a sweet region rather than narrow spot.
Next, try to remove diode and connect a bridge - try charging of the bridge. In such case, you'll be charging with single pulse. Capacitor's role is to be filled with spikes and dump them quickly onto the battery. What kind of spikes - that's oscillating part tuning. How many and how often dumped - that is depending on: capacitor value and 555 pulse (duty cycle and frequency).
4th part of the circuit is a switch, which can be mechanical, neon (high threshold), Darlington with two transistors (leakage), transistor and SCR, MOSFET. Optocoupler's job is to separate 555 from hv. part.
I think, potential measured across pulsing cap should be about 5V above battery ( between 19 -25V in case of large battery). However, I did notice large battery very "alive" at 0.9V only, and plates are changing color. I'm still playing with frequency and cap size. I believe it's not optimized yet but it will be


Vtech

Vtech

[SkyWatcher]

Hi again folks, just wanted to share a thought I had. You know how some people have said pulsing 3 frequencies at slightly different phases may give anomalous results, well would a bifilar or trifilar match this. I mean the current has to be a little phase lagged as it comes through again and again past the other coil and if trifilar this may give us the slightly out of phase condition needed to give different effects. Tesla did say the bifilar coil gave way more voltage per turn and this phase offset may be why. Any thoughts appreciated.
peace love light
Tyson

[SkyWatcher]

Hi folks, I'm having good results using the 555 timer pulsing a bifilar 18 gauge coil on laminate core and having good results reconditioning an old pack of panasonic 3000mah nimh cells of 14.4v. After 3 cycles, discharging at C/10, this battery pack I made for my electric plane a couple years back is almost at full capacity again. Whats interesting is with this bifilar coil the flyback diode which is a nte5817 rated at 6 amps, 1000volts was getting hot, so I put 2 in parallel and it helped dissipate the heat. Thing is the coil I was using before which was maybe 14 or 16 gauge wire and lower resistance and not bifilar, the diodes barely became warm as if the flyback was very small in output. I wonder if these bifilar coils really do pack more punch as Tesla said, it seems so.
peace love light
Tyson

[sucahyo]

Mine 12 volts 35 Ah battery is rising upto 14.30 volts maximum. This happens within 2 hours, when I start the charging with starting voltage of 11.98 - 12.2 volts.

Never raise to something higher? Mine climb from 13V to 18V in first 10 minutes or so, then reduce to 12.5 before it start increase little by little.

I stop doing direct radiant charging now because I want to see how long a relay can last when used for cap dumping charging. Charging definitely much much slower than direct charging since the cap being dump to the battery in 2Hz frequency. 15 minutes passing and don't see an increase in voltage yet. voltage raised from 12.5V to 13V in 2.5 hour.

If I don't see voltage increase in two hour I will go back to direct radiant charging.


Maybe TIP122 is not a switching transistor so it won't give radiant output if driven with non sharp signal.

[pvar06]

About the TIP122 maybe it is dead so current passing trough the transistor without beeing switched at all. See if it get very hot. I use heatsink but even with 0.4A charging two nicad it only get warm.

Hi,

I had 6-7 TIP122 in stock. I have tested three transistor and all were taking the same current. Yes the transistor gets very hot when it takes such current. Even with the brand new transistor [checked on multimeter] the current draw remains same but nothing is observed at output.

I too use a big heat sink for the transistors and Thyristor.

Regards

Praveen

[pvar06]

Hi Sucahyo,

Mine 12 volts 35 Ah battery is rising upto 14.30 volts maximum. This happens within 2 hours, when I start the charging with starting voltage of 11.98 - 12.2 volts.

Regards

Praveen

[sucahyo]

BTW, how long everyone 12V battery voltage climb (before it start charging at normal range) after it being connected to the charger? Mine climb to 18V or more at about 15 minutes before starting to charge at +0.5V above battery real voltage.

[sucahyo]

Hi sucahyo. I did experiment with few. I was harvesting parts (mainly capacitors) from disposable cameras and most of them have still good AA's/AAA's. They were Fuji, Kodak, Phillips, Rayovac among others. I tried with few weaker and I was able to use them (in my toothbrush) for couple of weeks. If you overcharge them, they may explode since they're not designed to be recharged. Some don't work at all but they're free anyhow

Thanks, I read on battery book that energizer once produce rechargable alkaline. I don't know if it's still in production. I guess if one of those brand simply not working that it is designed to be dead after all.

I made a couple of them pop. So now I try to charge it in less than 30 minutes.

What is the size of the battery you are charging on this circuit ...... is the testing battery was originally dead battery ........

Thanks, the battery I currently charge is BB brand 12V 7Ah taken from APC UPS. It is a weak battery but still have proper voltage.

About the TIP122 maybe it is dead so current passing trough the transistor without beeing switched at all. See if it get very hot. I use heatsink but even with 0.4A charging two nicad it only get warm. Two nicad has a lot less internal resistance than 12V battery so can be considered as the highest load of my circuit. The one wire neon at transformer secondary will still show pulsating light when charging 12V, but it won't when charging two nicad.

Performance data charging two 1.2V nicad (1000mAh):
Input: 0.7A @ 10.4V = 7.28watt
Output: 0.45A @ 3.2V = 1.44watt (at full battery)
Efficiency: 19%

Performance data charging one 12V gel SLA (7Ah/20hr):
Input: 0.62A @ 10.5V = 6.51watt
Output: 0.24A @ 13.1V = 3.14watt(initial voltage raising before going down)
Efficiency: 48%

It seems efficiency going up when charging battery with more voltage, I guess this is the reason 12V source is used to charge 24V, also the suggestion to add more load. Just realize that current circuit is much much better in term of efficiency compared to previous one using 3055. I guess reducing the heat from 555 by using higher resistor value do help.

[pvar06]

Performance of new circuit:
- output current = 400mA
- output voltage without load = 370V
- charge at +0.1V above battery voltage for two nicad in series.
- do not make the battery hot
- charge 1000mAh under an hour, much slower than previous one transistor version but has less surface charging property.

Hi Sucahyo,

Thanks for data. Look forward for the test result with the above data.

What is the size of the battery you are charging on this circuit ...... is the testing battery was originally dead battery ........

Wish you all the success.

Regards

Praveen

[pvar06]

Tip122

Hi,

In the process of achiving some powerful spikes [over 200 volts with input current of 1-1.5 Amps]. I have tested various transistors like KSE13009, 3055 etc.

In this process I has just installed the TIP122 [some old stock was lying with me] on the Bedini Page46 schematic [only difference that installed 100k pot in place of 51k fix resistor]. I have observed that suddently the circuit draw increased to 1.5-2 amps. But at the same time at the output side there was no voltage and no current.

I got the doubt that there must be some issue with the H11D1, 2N3584 etc. So checked everything and found them okay. But still there was no output voltage and current, however the input was 12 volts with 2 Amps.

Then i have replaced the TIP122 with BD243C then the circuit started taking 0.3 amps with 12 volts and output voltage was around 150-160 volts.

I dont know, what is the wrong with the TIP122..... ANY GUSES.

Regards

Praveen

[pvar06]

Hi Praveen,

If we need to have 10-12 cycles to revive one battery then I dont think this is a commercial viable project. This is good for people like us, who hooked on to some thing and do research and the open source. But this is certainly not going to change anything.
IMO it will, for every person who will be able to make such circuit for himself or for the nice neighbor. Non rechargeable/rechargeable batteries are a huge industry with couple billion dollars profit annually. Imagine for yourself, that you don't have to buy anymore AA,AAA, C,D, etc.
-That you can keep your car battery for longer than normal.

I apologize for a long post but I believe this has a potential for every person. BTW, we all have friends. Show the what can be done. This is far more interesting than any TV show


Vtech

Hi Vtech,

Nothing to apologize, in fact every post is informative.

My main reason for raising the issue was because of lot of faliure in replicating the page46 or similar design. In most of testing [page46 or Jetijs] I found the battery is improving but at a very slower pace, so i was just thinking about using some assisting material to make it happen fast.

Any ways I am still on to this project .... haha.

Regards

Praveen

[blackchisel97]

Alkaline batts.

Hi sucahyo. I did experiment with few. I was harvesting parts (mainly capacitors) from disposable cameras and most of them have still good AA's/AAA's. They were Fuji, Kodak, Phillips, Rayovac among others. I tried with few weaker and I was able to use them (in my toothbrush) for couple of weeks. If you overcharge them, they may explode since they're not designed to be recharged. Some don't work at all but they're free anyhow
This week I'll make another J.B circuit, similar to the last one but not self oscillating. I'll use a rotor but keep cap pulser. I have limited means to make decent mechanical setup at the moment but I enjoy them more than solid state. I also want to transform my pendulum into something funny and I have an idea


Vtech

[sucahyo]

This circuit works very well with AA's, 6F22's from my DMM's, small SLA's and non rechargeable alkalines. Second coil isn't connected, just sits on adjustable core.

Nice setup. I guess the rodin coil is not suitable for charging seeing it being stored. What kind of alkaline brand that you try to charge? Mine (ABC's alkaline) do not store current and only store voltage.

[blackchisel97]

Hi Tyson, thank you for the kind comment. It seems that kids "used" my camera. It's working strange and out of focus

I wish I could figure out why these self oscillators are heating up my transistors
I found that duty cycle may be responsible for heating up transistors. Also, you can try to slightly increase base resistance.


Vtech

[SkyWatcher]

Hi folks, very cool pics blackchisel, very colorful. That's great, getting some practical use out of the technology charging a drill battery and extending its physical life. I myself went back to the 555 timer to pulse my coil to charge batteries because as I tested that circuit more, it was heating up the transistor way too much for my liking. I wish I could figure out why these self oscillators are heating up my transistors and fix it. Anyway nice setups there and thanks for the pics, I like colorful pics.
peace love light
Tyson